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Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 248

post #7411 of 11459
buzz, sorry to clarify further; APL large or small?

I believe large.
Edited by pieandchips - 5/25/13 at 2:16pm
post #7412 of 11459
D-Nice in the Q and A session said for the whites actual content only shows to about 240, so I'm gong to calibrate mine to show 240 and below.
post #7413 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

Come to NY Dave, we've got a ton of Magnolias that you can look at! biggrin.gif

Whats a good place in Manhatten to view one? I have seen them at Magnolia on 5th and 44th but I hate the lighting and setup of that room. Also something seemed off bc the brightness was not much better than the VT60 next to it both at cell 20. I need to go back and check the eco sensor. Excellent detail clarity sharpness tho. I have one room with lots of light. Seriously thinking of selling my vt50 55 and 65 inchers if the f8500 can deliver on brightness and fix my complaints about VTs video processing.
post #7414 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

buzz, sorry to clarify further; APL large or small?

I believe large.

I have that info somewhere.... starting to pack up for a 1600 mile trip so I might not get to the answer. FWIW, the Accupel outputs, Field, Small Window, APL Window, and Windows patterns. I've just forgotten what percent they are.
post #7415 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by caeguy View Post

Anyone using the F8500 remote for their other devices? E.g. Bluray player, AVR. Is the only way to use the remote via the IR blaster?

I use the remote for my AVR and set top box. The IR blaster is the only way to control them with the touchpad remote.
post #7416 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by jav1 View Post

Hi folks, took delivery of an 8500 today, so far with daytime viewing and a few picture tweaks I'm really impressed. I do notice one annyoying thing and that is I am seeing flicker when graphics are being displayed as part of the content. For example when watching PGA golf and a graphic of the scroes are put up, the names and lines of the graphic itself will flicker or maybe a better way to describe it is shimmer. I tried a few picture setting adjustments including cell light and digital clean filter but no change. Anyone else seeing this? Cant say I'm seeing it with general content but haven't watch too much just yet. Firmware is the latest.

Thanks

Go to picture options and change the film mode option
post #7417 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

I have that info somewhere.... starting to pack up for a 1600 mile trip so I might not get to the answer. FWIW, the Accupel outputs, Field, Small Window, APL Window, and Windows patterns. I've just forgotten what percent they are.

I don't think the i1D3 is able to read APL small very well. I was getting spurious results in testing. Your pro equipment would have no problem.
post #7418 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Naples
Did I tell you I like to fish? This was Wednesday....... lol


makes me miss the white sand beaches.................................
post #7419 of 11459
Hi all,
I'm into my 3rd day of F8500 ownership and thought I'd pass on a tip for those that own a tablet device.
Check out the "Samsung Smartview" app. The remote control function works great for me - especially when playing with the TVs smart hub apps. The popup keyboard may save my sanity (or at least the purchase of a wireless keyboard)

I also found it made entering Pieandchips settings that much easier. BTW thanks pie for sharing!

Initial impressions of the set are extremely favourable. I'm comparing to a 2009 era B850 and last years E550 plasmas. There is no comparison really...
post #7420 of 11459
This set looks much better than my 55ST50.I like it mucho mucho.beautyfull image with great whites even on warm2 setting.my question is...should i upgrade to the latest software or leave it like that?
post #7421 of 11459
And better than my 60E7000 too
post #7422 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfmlb View Post

Go to picture options and change the film mode option

That worked, thanks surfmlb!
post #7423 of 11459
I missed the whole ycbcr - rgb convo, can we go back to that again. My Sony S350 bluray player has ycbcr 4:4:4, ycbcr 4:2:2, rgb limited and rgb full. It's been on rgb limited forever, so I changed it to ycbcr 4:4:4 to see how it looked different and then to ycbcr 4:2:2. 4:2:2 gave me a blue picture, everything is literally blue. ycbcr 4:4:4 looks pretty good, not sure if I can tell a difference between that and rgb limited though. Is one better than the other? With RGB limited I had HDMI black level on low... with rcbcr 4:4:4 I changed HDMI black level to normal (low crushes shadows). Does this sound right?

I don't think Uverse gives me the option between RGB and ycbcr though... and HDMI level Low gives me darker blacks while Normal gives lighter blacks but slightly more shadow detail. I'm so confused now.
post #7424 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRBR View Post

This set looks much better than my 55ST50.I like it mucho mucho.beautyfull image with great whites even on warm2 setting.my question is...should i upgrade to the latest software or leave it like that?
You should update the firmware as it fixes the brightness pops that many people reported in this forum. I am assuming you have the North American model.
post #7425 of 11459
Had to swap my 8500 again because of a bad wifi adaptor and some other issues. Everything is perfect with the new set except for a stuck red pixel on left center of the panel. You can only see it on solid background screen of green and white. Noticed it immediately when running the break in slides. Any ideas on how to fix a stuck pixel? I don't want to exchange the set again because it seems every set has some imperfections. I honestly think that BB has a bad batch of 8500's.
post #7426 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post

No, Ken. They're history after the 1103 fw update....

But what about 3-D pops? I fear Samsung is going to silently fade away and it won't be addressed.
post #7427 of 11459
with regards to this whole 16-235 vs. 0-250 thing. with my old plasma(PN50B530) changing my video on my HTPC between these two settings made a significant and very visible difference. when I tried it with the f8500 it didn't seem to change anything.

I really know nothing about this setting, but i'm wondering if this just means the f8500 can actually handle the 0-250 range, and my old one was 'compressing' it, crushing blacks etc. on the old set the pic did look better at first, but with closer inspection it was acting a lot like dynamic contrast. i'm guessing since my source doesn't actually have any content in the 0-15 or 236-250 range this is why I don't see any difference? or should I see a difference no matter what?

i'm still not sure what I should set it to or why(how do I check?). just passing on this experience so maybe one of you can interpret what is happening.
post #7428 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

Does this sound right?
...I'm so confused now.

Here's a good writeup:
http://www.neowin.net/forum/topic/622671-rgb-fulllimited-discovering-truths-and-calibrating-your-tv

I prefer ycbcr to RGB as it gives me slightly better flesh tones in HTPC TV viewing.
Everyone's setup is different, so pick the one you think looks best, though theoretically they should be very very similar.
post #7429 of 11459
Pie,

Last night we were talking about the somewhat poor (soft) picture quality on TCM. Well... between then and now, they have improved it significantly. And they fixed the aspect ratio problem too. Unfortunately, they still haven't fixed the color tinting issue when showing B/W movies. Check it out.

Sorry for the off topic post, everyone.

Larry
post #7430 of 11459
^ Will do Larry smile.gif

Wife's watching some pointless blabber mouth drivel right now and I'm not allowed on it rolleyes.gif
post #7431 of 11459
Back to the RGB thing:

RGB Full (0-255) came from the PC space
RGB Limited (16-235) is(was) for TV's
YCbCr 4:4:4 is similar to RGB limited and uses 16-235

Modern TV's can do RGB Full mainly to support the use of viewing PC material through them.

Most/all viewing material we watch is encoded to the 16-235 range, so setting your source to RGB Full doesn't mean more bells and whistles.
Edited by pieandchips - 5/25/13 at 8:02pm
post #7432 of 11459
post #7433 of 11459

Sorry but as usual I'm A day late and a dollar short, story of my life lol..

Strange thing for me is the optical out of the TV does not give me Dolby Digital yet the the coax out from my xfinity digital box does.. Strange huh?
post #7434 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Most/all viewing material we watch is encoded to the 16-235 range, so setting your source to RGB Full doesn't mean more bells and whistles.

The one thing setting your source to RGB Full does mean is that you better set your TV to RGB Full as well.
post #7435 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinger View Post

Sorry but as usual I'm A day late and a dollar short, story of my life lol..

Strange thing for me is the optical out of the TV does not give me Dolby Digital yet the the coax out from my xfinity digital box does.. Strange huh?

I get DD through the TV's optical out for TV source material. I use it for Netflix. I used to use my HTPC for Netflix until recently, but the TV's interface is easy and snappy to use instead.
post #7436 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

The one thing setting your source to RGB Full does mean is that you better set your TV to RGB Full as well.

Yes! Source and TV need to match (HDMI Black Level) otherwise all sorts of funky stuff starts to ruin your day.
I was only just on here a couple of days ago mixing up full and normal rolleyes.gif sorry about that.
post #7437 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Yes! Source and TV need to match (HDMI Black Level) otherwise all sorts of funky stuff starts to ruin your day.
I was only just on here a couple of days ago mixing up full and normal rolleyes.gif sorry about that.
Touche! I swore I was outputting dolby digital 5.1 from my 8500's optical cable via the hdmi in yesterday....Arrghhh..
post #7438 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinger View Post

Sorry but as usual I'm A day late and a dollar short, story of my life lol..

Strange thing for me is the optical out of the TV does not give me Dolby Digital yet the the coax out from my xfinity digital box does.. Strange huh?
Yes
post #7439 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Back to the RGB thing:

RGB Full (0-255) came from the PC space
RGB Limited (16-235) is(was) for TV's
YCbCr 4:4:4 is similar to RGB limited and uses 16-235

Modern TV's can do RGB Full mainly to support the use of viewing PC material through them.

Most/all viewing material we watch is encoded to the 16-235 range, so setting your source to RGB Full doesn't mean more bells and whistles.

smile.gif SO just to clarify,

RGB limited = HDMI Black Level Normal
YCbCr 4:4:4 = HDMI Black Level Normal
RGB Full = HDMI Black Level Low

Or can't we set a baseline like that? I'm not sure why my Sony bluray went all blue when I did YCbCr 4:2:2 but I saw D-Nice post in another forum that Sony's work best when set to YCbCr 4:4:4. Unfortunately my Uverse doesn't let me choose, so it's always stuck on RGB Full (at least I think). So I have to do Low for Uverse and then switch to Normal for bluray if I keep my bluray at YCbCr 4:4:4. Ahhhhhhrrrrrggghhh!
post #7440 of 11459
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

... So I have to do Low for Uverse and then switch to Normal for bluray if I keep my bluray at YCbCr 4:4:4. Ahhhhhhrrrrrggghhh!

Life is a bitch...


smile.gif
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