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DefTech BP8060 red blinking light but no subwoofer sound...

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I have the towers attached to a Pioneer Elite VSX-60, which is 7.2 with two subwoofer pre outs. One speaker works fine...when signal reaches speaker the red light goes from blinking to solid. The non working speaker also has a red blinking light which would turn green (when it worked) when the signal reached the speaker...now it only blinks red.
This is where it gets weird. I took the fuse out of the working speaker and placed into the non working speaker, and the light turned green and the sound from the sw worked. So I thought I figured it out. I purchased fuses and an APC Conditioner. While I waited for the APC to arrive I had everything unplugged for about 5 days. It arrived yesterday and I plugged everything in...including accidentally placing the "blown fuse" into the speaker that never had a problem...the speaker worked...so the fuse was never blown. Ugh. I turn the system on and everything seems fine but then I get this low rumble from the speaker that had an issue the week prior. I put the system on mute and hear a very low rumble from the sub, so I remove all of the speaker wire connections from the speaker and still hear a low rumble. I unplug the speaker and let it sit. When I plug it back in now all I get is a blinking red light and no sound from subwoofer, sigh. The fuse is fine. I also Swapped connections with the other speaker and the working speakers still works...and the non working speaker still does not work. Thoughts?
post #2 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by ique View Post

I have the towers attached to a Pioneer Elite VSX-60, which is 7.2 with two subwoofer pre outs. One speaker works fine...when signal reaches speaker the red light goes from blinking to solid. The non working speaker also has a red blinking light which would turn green (when it worked) when the signal reached the speaker...now it only blinks red.
This is where it gets weird. I took the fuse out of the working speaker and placed into the non working speaker, and the light turned green and the sound from the sw worked. So I thought I figured it out. I purchased fuses and an APC Conditioner. While I waited for the APC to arrive I had everything unplugged for about 5 days. It arrived yesterday and I plugged everything in...including accidentally placing the "blown fuse" into the speaker that never had a problem...the speaker worked...so the fuse was never blown. Ugh. I turn the system on and everything seems fine but then I get this low rumble from the speaker that had an issue the week prior. I put the system on mute and hear a very low rumble from the sub, so I remove all of the speaker wire connections from the speaker and still hear a low rumble. I unplug the speaker and let it sit. When I plug it back in now all I get is a blinking red light and no sound from subwoofer, sigh. The fuse is fine. I also Swapped connections with the other speaker and the working speakers still works...and the non working speaker still does not work. Thoughts?

The above is confusing to me. You need to provide how you have things connected and what settings in the receiver you are using. With the 8060's you have two connection options. One way is to connect only speaker wires from the receiver to the towers. The speaker size in the receiver's menu is large and no sub setting.

The other connection is to use the LFE connections as well as speaker wire connections. The setting for speaker size in the receiver is large and sub woofer set to yes.

Which way do you have it connected?
post #3 of 6
DUDE!!!!! I have the same problem!!!!!! I just purchased those from a local AV retailer and here's how I have mine connected. Marantz receiver LFE out to audioquest Y splitter, two Sub x cables into 8060 towers, speaker wire connected accordingly, and I cannot get the damn blinking lights to stop!!!!! (settings Large Fronts, SW yes), I even tried Front Large & No sub and still constant damn blinking. I contacted definitive and they say it's a blown amp inside the speaker and was like What!!?. For a moment, I had a constant red light, powered on my Marantz and it went Green??! WTF? I have never seen a green light on definitive products. It was a very low bass response at sub level turned all the way up on tower and after 5 min, started making a weird popping rumbling noise!! I'm not taking a chance and back to the retailer they go for a new set or different speakers.
post #4 of 6
The red light turning green is normal. I have that on mine and Joe from definitive in the definitive forum said that is something the changed in the newer production runs. However my green light doesn't blink it is solid. I have only speaker wire running to the no LFE
post #5 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTGeek7 View Post

DUDE!!!!! I have the same problem!!!!!! I just purchased those from a local AV retailer and here's how I have mine connected. Marantz receiver LFE out to audioquest Y splitter, two Sub x cables into 8060 towers, speaker wire connected accordingly, and I cannot get the damn blinking lights to stop!!!!! (settings Large Fronts, SW yes), I even tried Front Large & No sub and still constant damn blinking. I contacted definitive and they say it's a blown amp inside the speaker and was like What!!?. For a moment, I had a constant red light, powered on my Marantz and it went Green??! WTF? I have never seen a green light on definitive products. It was a very low bass response at sub level turned all the way up on tower and after 5 min, started making a weird popping rumbling noise!! I'm not taking a chance and back to the retailer they go for a new set or different speakers.

"It was a very low bass response at sub level turned all the way up on the tower and after five min, started making a weird popping rumbling noise" ...turned all the way up on the towers???
Edited by Espo77 - 3/26/13 at 12:52pm
post #6 of 6
MNaudioguy, would the popping noise cause the subs to not perform at their best?? Now both my speakers somehow turned green when working and solid red when in standby, but I swear I have to turn the knobs all the way up to get the response that these speakers are said to perform at. Any thoughts?
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