Originally Posted by trackfan
Originally Posted by A9X-308
Passive biamping, which is what you're describing is possible via the method you describe, but provides no practical or audible benefit over powering the speaker conventionally via a single amplifier channel.
You're mistaken, I'm talking about biamping using an active crossover. The pasive crossover inside the speaker would be disconnected from the tweeter and woofer. The signal would travel from the speaker terminal cup directly to the tweeter and woofer via seperate pairs of binding posts. Why do you think I said the jumper would have to be removed? There would be no need to remove it if you're still going through the speaker's crossover. To be more precise in my language, I guess I should have said doing this requires rudimentary carpentry skills and electrical skills
Now that I can see where you are coming from, I will point out what others will no doubt shortly confirm, which is the electronics skills required to convert a well-designed speaker from using a passive crossover to one with equal or better performance using an active crossover are non-trivial.
While you can get fair performance with a simple off-the-shelf active crossover, most modern speaker's crossovers are tuned to compensate for the characteristics of the drivers. Doing this right at the minimum requires having an acoustical measurement setup, which in recent times has become something that is not impossible for the home constructor to obtain, but costs some bucks and takes time and effort to learn how to use,
I've been down this road with some success, but its nothing I'd recommend to someone with only rudimentary electronics skills except as an educational project. To get a speaker that sounds better than it did with a well-designed passive crossover takes more than rudimentary electronics skills going in, but if you do it right you will have more than rudimentary electronics skills coming out! ;-)