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JVC DLA X55R - Is the Projector Central Calculator light output accurate?

post #1 of 13
3/20/13 at 6:28am
Thread Starter 
Based on all of my reading, this is a very good projector but in terms of light output, may not be as bright as some other projectors such as the Panasonic PT-AE8000, or Epson 5020, BenQ W7000, but on the projector central calculator it shows the JVC as being brighter, and able to light up a larger screen with the same light level.

I do not have the opportunity to look at these side by side and my dealer is recommending the JVC (he has never actually seen one) based on several factors but the most significant being it's ability to light up a large screen. Of course he is basing this off of the projector central numbers. I realize manufacturer reported lumens doesn't mean that much, but I am doubtful that this projector is that much brighter than the epson and the panasonic. Anyone have any real world experience with this projector or first hand knowledge of the accuracy of the projector central calculations for this projector.
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post #2 of 13
3/20/13 at 6:41am
What size and gain screen are you trying to light up? The JVC has more lumens in best image mode (only mode I would consider for my use) than the Epson and Panny. The Epson and Panny have more lumens in their living room mode and dynamic mode. The two LCD projectors are not in the same class as that model JVC. They are not at the same price point either.
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post #3 of 13
3/20/13 at 6:56am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

What size and gain screen are you trying to light up? The JVC has more lumens in best image mode (only mode I would consider for my use) than the Epson and Panny. The Epson and Panny have more lumens in their living room mode and dynamic mode. The two LCD projectors are not in the same class as that model JVC. They are not at the same price point either.

Seymour XD screen - gain advertised 1.2, in actuality probably 1.0. Proposed screen 2.35:1, 120-130" wide. Will use a lens. My dealer originally recommended the JVC because of the ability to preset shift and zoom in for widescreen, but I am leaning towards using a lens. Thanks.
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post #4 of 13
3/20/13 at 8:05am
Personally, I would not go 130" wide with that screen gain and the JVC, but then I am conservative and like to have decent lamp life. Others are fine with buying a new lamp every year. The Epson is out of the running, since you are talking scope screen here. The Panny will work, if you use it's brighter modes, but you are throwing out color accuracy. Art at Projector reviews got a little over 600 calibrated, best mode lumens, mid zoom and high lamp. The JVC in the same conditions will do a little under 900 lumens. When you go to dynamic mode it is reversed, the Panny has more lumens. I am not a fan of the dynamic iris in the Panny, nor do I like the screen door that can be seen when using larger screens.
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post #5 of 13
3/20/13 at 8:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Personally, I would not go 130" wide with that screen gain and the JVC, but then I am conservative and like to have decent lamp life. Others are fine with buying a new lamp every year. The Epson is out of the running, since you are talking scope screen here. The Panny will work, if you use it's brighter modes, but you are throwing out color accuracy. Art at Projector reviews got a little over 600 calibrated, best mode lumens, mid zoom and high lamp. The JVC in the same conditions will do a little under 900 lumens. When you go to dynamic mode it is reversed, the Panny has more lumens. I am not a fan of the dynamic iris in the Panny, nor do I like the screen door that can be seen when using larger screens.

thanks for the input. What is the largest scope screen size you would go with if you used the JVC and a panamorph lens?
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post #6 of 13
3/20/13 at 8:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Personally, I would not go 130" wide with that screen gain and the JVC, but then I am conservative and like to have decent lamp life. Others are fine with buying a new lamp every year. The Epson is out of the running, since you are talking scope screen here. The Panny will work, if you use it's brighter modes, but you are throwing out color accuracy. Art at Projector reviews got a little over 600 calibrated, best mode lumens, mid zoom and high lamp. The JVC in the same conditions will do a little under 900 lumens. When you go to dynamic mode it is reversed, the Panny has more lumens. I am not a fan of the dynamic iris in the Panny, nor do I like the screen door that can be seen when using larger screens.

I've known you a long time in these forums, I miss your more theoretical posts which I sometimes learned from. We all learned from each other, though I know nothing about audio and am a dummy there.

Maybe you watched the Panny IRIS in Cinema Mode, the projector needs to be in Rec709 mode. Switching gears, I like the Benq w7000's IRIS because you can tweak it to your heart's desire to be as aggressive or less aggressive as you want. The problem though with the Benq's IRIS is you are starting at 700:1 to 1000:1 Native On/Off, and the IRIS can only help things so much at that native on/off start.

Pretty much it's hard for a projector to have a good IRIS if the Native On/Off is below 5000:1, but, there are some that do (Sony as we know, best IRIS gotta be Runco and Sony???)

I've watched the Runco LS-5 a little (tiny bit), not long enough to make much discernment. I didn't really see many dark scenes on it, the Sony IRIS is the best I think.

I know you can't write down theory all day though because I know how that gets (I've even had to cheat a couple of times to google some theory I forgot about some lamp ballast). I'm not too proud to admit it, I know I've been controversial a few times in here, but it really was ALL IN FUN to get discussions going. I did trigger some DEEP theory discussions by being overly BRASS a few times, but someone had to do it.

I especially liked the contrast discussion, I was wrong on a couple points, but didn't care because by the end of that Deep Contrast Thread, everyone agreed on the theory of how contrast works.

I was even reading documents about how radiologists are TRAINED to identify contrast gradients. I think some of the medical contrast theory goes even deeper than the contrast theory in projectors smile.gif
Edited by coderguy - 3/20/13 at 10:33am
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post #7 of 13
3/20/13 at 8:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnymenudo View Post

thanks for the input. What is the largest scope screen size you would go with if you used the JVC and a panamorph lens?

If you have a good room, then 120" will give you good lamp life and the ability to use low lamp. 130" is going to push you into high lamp and shorter lamp life, but you get the added bonus of the larger image. What throw distance do you have available? Need to consider pincushion. Also what is your viewing distance?
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post #8 of 13
3/20/13 at 8:53am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

If you have a good room, then 120" will give you good lamp life and the ability to use low lamp. 130" is going to push you into high lamp and shorter lamp life, but you get the added bonus of the larger image. What throw distance do you have available? Need to consider pincushion. Also what is your viewing distance?

Room is 17 X 25 - 9 foot ceilings. Room is being built so throw can be whatever I want it to be to maximize projector. Pitch black bat cave.

First row eye distance is planned at 11 feet, 2nd row 17 ft. and a third row bar counter at 20 feet. This is why I thought a larger screen would be best. The front frow might be a bit overwhelmed, but the second and third rows need a large screen.

My ideal viewing distance for my current 16:9 screen (54" X 96") is 14 feet, (Epson powerlite 6100) so I am straddling that somewhat with my first two rows. Because my current screen is 16:9 and 54' X 96", that is why I wanted to go 130" wide for scope to keep the constant height similar to what I enjoy now.
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post #9 of 13
3/20/13 at 9:14am
@Mike

What I don't like about the Panny is perceivable average sharpness and the way their support department is too strict and the shortened warranty.
Oh and the history of dust blobs and weird lamp flickering. Besides that, the ultimate problem is WHY buy an LCD with that low Native On/Off when you can get an LCOS for almost the same price.

I don't understand other than the LAG BLOKE YOKES that need low lag (I didn't mean to call anyone that, seriously, a YOKED BLOKE must be an awful australian term for gentleman), or was that English (yah - English!)...
Edited by coderguy - 3/20/13 at 9:30am
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post #10 of 13
3/20/13 at 10:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I've known you a long time in these forums, I miss your more theoretical posts which I sometimes learned from. We all learned from each other, though I know nothing about audio and am a dummy there.

Maybe you watched the Panny IRIS in Cinema Mode, the projector needs to be in Rec709 mode. Switching gears, I like the Benq w7000's IRIS because you can tweak it to your heart's desire to be as aggressive or less aggressive as you want. The problem though with the Benq's IRIS is you are starting at 700:1 to 1000:1 Native On/Off, and the IRIS can only help things so much at that native on/off start.

Pretty much it's hard for a projector to have a good IRIS if the Native On/Off is below 5000:1, but, there are some that do (Sony as we know, best IRIS gotta be Runco and Sony???)

I've watched the Runco LS-5 a little (tiny bit), not long enough to make much discernment. I didn't really see many dark scenes on it, the Sony IRIS is the best I think.

I know you can't write down theory all day though because I know how that gets (I've even had to cheat a couple of times to google some theory I forgot about some lamp ballast). I'm not too proud to admit it, I know I've been controversial a few times in here, but it really was ALL IN FUN to get discussions going. I did trigger some DEEP theory discussions by being overly BRASS a few times, but someone had to do it.

I especially liked the contrast discussion, I was wrong on a couple points, but didn't care because by the end of that Deep Contrast Thread, everyone agreed on the theory of how contrast works.

I was even reading documents about how radiologists are TRAINED to identify contrast gradients. I think some of the medical contrast theory goes even deeper than the contrast theory in projectors smile.gif

Hopefully I'll never have anything bad show up on my medical contrast report...

I am not a big fan of the Panny either. I have to walk more of a fine line these days. When you are a dealer for several products, you can't openly promote one product over another brand that you are also a dealer for. If you do, you end up with unhappy manufacturers. I am always happy to talk to people over the phone or by email and give them my recommendations and why. You know how much I am also into audio. smile.gif Audio wise, pretty happy with my system these days. Built my front three speakers, added two new 18" subs (total of 3-18's up front and still have the two 12's in the system. smile.gif
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post #11 of 13
3/20/13 at 11:41am
I owned a Panny before I went the JVC route. The Panny picture was not nearly as good as the jvc and I kept getting dust blobs all the time. Really irritating. Also, the best mode lumens is what really matters, the Panny being 600 compared to the RS48/X55 at 900. I got 925 with mines at 175 hours. I'm going with a 1.0 gain screen next year when I buy my new house. I planned on a 11ft wide screen, but I'm going I settle for a 10ft wide screen. I will need 675 to reach my desired 12ftL for movies. Since, i only watch about 6 movies a month on blu ray, I will be at less than 200hrs a year. So, I can go bigger and not run through many bulbs. I just use a second projector for everything else, like many here do also. But the main reason I'm going better is for 4K projectors that are and should be brighter, hopefully a well priced jvc. E-Shift will work for the time being tho
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post #12 of 13
3/20/13 at 12:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

If you have a good room, then 120" will give you good lamp life and the ability to use low lamp. 130" is going to push you into high lamp and shorter lamp life, but you get the added bonus of the larger image. What throw distance do you have available? Need to consider pincushion. Also what is your viewing distance?

What's your best guess as to how many hours you will get out of the JVC going high lamp on a 130" wide screen before needing to replace it? I know JVC is claiming that this new light chassis will retain 85% of the brightness at 2,000 hours or something along those lines.
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post #13 of 13
3/20/13 at 3:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tnedator View Post

What's your best guess as to how many hours you will get out of the JVC going high lamp on a 130" wide screen before needing to replace it? I know JVC is claiming that this new light chassis will retain 85% of the brightness at 2,000 hours or something along those lines.

That is hard to answer, since it is a new lamp design, so no long term data and it depends a lot on the room and the person. In a good room, 12 FL can seem bright.
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