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What Components for DIY Passive Sub? - Page 2

post #31 of 34
Just to throw out a counter point.
You can get what you want with 8" drivers, if you go ported.

You will need a high pass filter @ 20 Hz.
2 of these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-458

32L box.
One of these ports in each, 17" long (tuned to 28 Hz).
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=268-350

Stuff it pretty full with accoustistuff or similar. F3 is 25.4 Hz. 102 dB @ 30 Hz.

Small? Yes.
Down to 30 Hz? Yes
Not so loud? Yes
Takes 100W? Yes

Need a HPF? Yes.

Box size is roughly 10" wide, 14" high, and 23" deep (port barely fits).

So just to give you an idea
2x RSS210HO-4: $220
2x 3" precision ports: $26
Mini DSP: $160
Stuffing: ~$20
Edited by djkest - 3/22/13 at 6:13am
post #32 of 34
Thread Starter 
Been thinking about this, and here is what I have come up with.

I think I want to go with 10" drivers with one driver per cabinet. I really think that should be enough for my needs (I was quite happy with my Infinity 8" 50w BU-1 until it died after 10 years of use).

My preliminary parts list:

Driver - Dayton RSS265HF http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-460

Cabinet - DIY Sound Group http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/1cuft-sub-flat-pack.html

Binding Posts - DIY Sound Group http://www.diysoundgroup.com/binding-03.html

Amp - Kenwood KA-801 (220 wpc into 4 ohm)

Am I headed in the right direction?
post #33 of 34
Thread Starter 
Next consideration. Do I go front firing or downward firing? What are the pros and cons of each?

Update: Did some reading of previous threads and decided I want to go down firing as long as the Dayton driver doesn't have a problem with that.
Edited by crussader - 3/22/13 at 10:40am
post #34 of 34
That driver is fine for down firing. 220 watts is a good fit for a single 10".
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