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The 'Official' 2013 Denon "E Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 132

post #3931 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

Try going into the audio settings or speaker settings and check to see if the sub has been deactivated. If not, reset the microprocessor which normally fixes issues

Might have to do a reset as the sub is activated under speakers and audio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Ensure the FL/FR speakers are set to SMALL/80Hz.

Already is. Anything else?

On a side note, I figured out my vol limitation when it wouldn't go past -6 on network streaming from iOS. I had to change the vol settings in the denon remote app in addition to the unit itself😕
post #3932 of 6896
X4000 has a "Monitor2". Does it behave differently from "Zone2", or is it just like another zone, ie Zone 3? I am looking for something that will allow me to randomly use either the "Monitor" or "Monitor2" for output, but keep using the receiver to play the audio. Eg one moment I want to watch HTPC on a projector, then I want to watch it on the TV instead, but I want the receiver to keep playing the HTPC audio instead of sending it elsewhere. Can the X4000 behave this way? My problem with X3000 is that the receiver does not play the audio for Zone2 but instead passes it through to Zone2 to be played there (please correct me if I'm wrong).
post #3933 of 6896
I am expecting to take delivery of a new X4000 today or tomorrow, and I have a couple of questions.

I've seen it advised to do a full microprocessor reset upon receipt of a used/refurbished unit. Is it advisable to do one on a brand new unit, prior to setup?


Also, I know that I've seen instructions for checking your configuration save file, to ensure that it worked, but I can't remember where. Can anyone point me to the right spot?


My current receiver is a 3808CI (used as a pre-pro, with an Emotiva XPA-5). My music is all in an iTunes library. Since the 3808 does not have Airplay, I access the music through an Apple TV. Has anyone here used both this message for playing music, as well as Airplay via the receiver? Did you notice any difference in sound quality? Any other pros/cons to mention between these two methods?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

biggrin.gif
post #3934 of 6896
Just got my X4000 smile.gif Will have to wait for the weekend for the swap though.

I'm browsing the manual right now and I found one surprise. You can actually tell Audyssey to target the Graphic EQ curve! That would be great for tests (although the Graphic EQ is limited to 9 bands).

Also, I'm pretty sure there is no elegant solution for this but I have a recurring problem with my setup. I have a pair of wireless headphones. It would be super nice if I could somehow just grab the headphones and use the remote to turn all speakers off, without actually have to plug the headphone jack in (and unplug it afterwards). The headphone base has standard stereo RCA inputs. So I could use the AVR's pre outs somehow.

I can't really use the L/R pre outs since I would miss content when playing multichannel audio (unless, I guess, if I specifically use stereo mode). Furthermore, how would I turn off the speakers without muting the pre outs? I don't think this is possible. So I have two problems here: downmixing to stereo and independently turning the speakers off. Perhaps I could use the zone 2 pre outs for that purpose? I guess I'd have to mute Zone 1, set stereo mode so that the audio would be downmixed to stereo and could be used in zone 2? I guess I could program my Harmony to do that in one button press.

I also noticed there is a "media player" stereo pre out, but I haven't found out what's it's intended use is.
post #3935 of 6896
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I'm browsing the manual right now and I found one surprise. You can actually tell Audyssey to target the Graphic EQ curve! That would be great for tests (although the Graphic EQ is limited to 9 bands).

Sorry neutro that's totally false. The Graphic EQ and Audyssey are completely mutually exclusive, you cannot edit the target curves of Audyssey on any consumer product. Perhaps you are confusing the "curve copy" function that allows you to copy a rough version of the Audyssey Flat curve as a starting point for Graphic EQ?

Quote:
Also, I'm pretty sure there is no elegant solution for this but I have a recurring problem with my setup. I have a pair of wireless headphones. It would be super nice if I could somehow just grab the headphones and use the remote to turn all speakers off, without actually have to plug the headphone jack in (and unplug it afterwards). The headphone base has standard stereo RCA inputs. So I could use the AVR's pre outs somehow.

Why not use the headphones on one of Zone 2/3? Digital sources will pass to Zone 2/3 pre-outs on the X4000.

The Media Player outputs are just an analog recording output, it is a fixed (not variable) RCA pre-out.
post #3936 of 6896
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shunx View Post

X4000 has a "Monitor2". Does it behave differently from "Zone2", or is it just like another zone, ie Zone 3?

The two Monitor 1/2 outputs are mirrored outputs, the Zone 2 output is independent.
post #3937 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The two Monitor 1/2 outputs are mirrored outputs, the Zone 2 output is independent.

And since they are monitors, the two outputs do not carry any audio passthrough signals, only video, is that right?
post #3938 of 6896
Thanks a lot for your insight Batpig.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Sorry neutro that's totally false. The Graphic EQ and Audyssey are completely mutually exclusive, you cannot edit the target curves of Audyssey on any consumer product. Perhaps you are confusing the "curve copy" function that allows you to copy a rough version of the Audyssey Flat curve as a starting point for Graphic EQ?

Well according to the manual (on pages 156 and 160), you can set Audyssey MultEQ XT32 to either Audyssey (aka movie curve), Audyssey Byp. L/R (i.e. equalizes center and surrounds but not L/R), Audyssey Flat (aka music curve), Off (duh) and Graphic EQ ("applies frequency response set with Graphic EQ"). I thought that meant Audyssey would target the Graphic EQ curve.

So if I get what you mean, the Graphic EQ setting just means that Audyssey is Off but the Graphic EQ is enabled? Whereas Auddyssey set to Off just means both Audyssey and Graphic EQ are off?
Quote:
Why not use the headphones on one of Zone 2/3? Digital sources will pass to Zone 2/3 pre-outs on the X4000.

Ok so using Zone 2 would be an option I see. (That wasn't an option on my Onkyo 818 since digital sources could not be used on zones 2 and 3). For that to work, am I right that I'd have to manually select stereo mode? Or does the receiver automatically downmix multichannel content to stereo for Zone 2? I thought that for the same content to play in both Main Zone and Zone 2, stereo mode had to be selected.

If so, I'll have to weigh the complexity of setting up the receiver (muting Main Zone, setting stereo mode) vs just plugging the headphone jack.
Quote:
The Media Player outputs are just an analog recording output, it is a fixed (not variable) RCA pre-out.

Does it output stereo downmixed from multichannel sources, or is it only usable when in stereo mode or when listening to stereo content?
post #3939 of 6896
My X4000 should be delivered today very keen to get it setup and do an Audessy calibration before the wife gets home. Anyway one thing I have never really known is how big an area should I cover during the calibration to maximize the benefit of Audessy.

I have a 24x16 room where I sit towards the end of the room in a central position and the wife sits closer to the tv on one side wall. Now she really doesn't care too much for how good the sound is and sits kind of close to a speaker. So should I focus the sampling points around where I would sit or try to cover a larger area. This larger area would be 10x10 area.

I would think the larger area that you sample the more compromises need to be made. I know ideally we would have central seating this can only happen when the wife is away. So should I just do the samples around my primary seat area?

It would be a nice feature if you could store multiple calibrations based on different seating configurations and be able to quickly swap between them.

-Craig
post #3940 of 6896
Thread Starter 
^^^^ @rare-air -- this is well covered in the Audyssey FAQ/101: http://www.avsforum.com/t/795421/official-audyssey-thread-faq-in-post-51779/51750#user_d3
post #3941 of 6896
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Well according to the manual (on pages 156 and 160), you can set Audyssey MultEQ XT32 to either Audyssey (aka movie curve), Audyssey Byp. L/R (i.e. equalizes center and surrounds but not L/R), Audyssey Flat (aka music curve), Off (duh) and Graphic EQ ("applies frequency response set with Graphic EQ"). I thought that meant Audyssey would target the Graphic EQ curve.

So if I get what you mean, the Graphic EQ setting just means that Audyssey is Off but the Graphic EQ is enabled? Whereas Auddyssey set to Off just means both Audyssey and Graphic EQ are off?

Yes, exactly what you said at the end there. It's a confusingly labeled setting, since it seems contradictiory to set "MultEQ XT32" to "Graphic EQ". It should really just be called the "Room EQ" setting or something and toggle between Audyssey options, Graphic, or Off.

The bottom line is that if you set to Graphic EQ you are using the basic 9-band EQ established by the GEQ sliders, not the high rez FIR fitlers of Audyssey, and you are also then locked out from using other Audyssey tech like Dynamic EQ/Vol.

Quote:
Quote:
Why not use the headphones on one of Zone 2/3? Digital sources will pass to Zone 2/3 pre-outs on the X4000.

Ok so using Zone 2 would be an option I see. (That wasn't an option on my Onkyo 818 since digital sources could not be used on zones 2 and 3). For that to work, am I right that I'd have to manually select stereo mode? Or does the receiver automatically downmix multichannel content to stereo for Zone 2?

You are confusing input with output (surround mode). The INPUT has to be two channel PCM, setting the main zone to stereo surround mode won't do anything for the other zones.

The receiver doesn't actually provide a stereo downmix for the other zones, there is an HDMI setting for each zone that when set to "PCM" will change the EDID info for the receiver that gets broadcast to the source. Normally the source will look at the EDID of the receiver and see it can accept any audio format. When you have the HDMI zone setting on "PCM" and turn on that zone, the source should now see that the receiver is requesting no more than 2.0 PCM as the max acceptible input signal.

However, the reestablishment of the handshake may not always work properly and sometimes the source will not reset itself to stereo output. In this case you may have to manually change the source's audio output options or perhaps turn everything off and back on again so the source reboots and establishes the proper handshake.

The same limitations as the above apply to the Media Player output. I'll confess to never having used it, but in the past these types of "Rec Out" analog outs were tied to the Zone 2 source selection.
post #3942 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

To do so, you'll need to set the IP Control setting to "Off in Standby."


Thank you. You are very helpful.

I didnt know IP control powered the usb port....I dont see how a user would be able to make that connection. Very Confusing!
post #3943 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The bottom line is that if you set to Graphic EQ you are using the basic 9-band EQ established by the GEQ sliders, not the high rez FIR fitlers of Audyssey, and you are also then locked out from using other Audyssey tech like Dynamic EQ/Vol.

Okay so that's pretty much the standard behavior on all receivers I've seen with room correction then.
Quote:
The receiver doesn't actually provide a stereo downmix for the other zones, there is an HDMI setting for each zone that when set to "PCM" will change the EDID info for the receiver that gets broadcast to the source.

I see! So no downmix, only EDID changes. If I'm following, supposing I have Zone 2 connected but turned off, the receiver sets its EDID for multichannel capabilities. But when Zone 2 is turned on, it sets its EDID for stereo capabilities only, so the source should switch to the embedded stereo track (if listening to a blu-ray for example) and sending stereo to all zones. Barring handshake problems, this should be transparent then (i.e. taken care of when turning zone 2 on or off). Well I'll give it a try for sure.

I guess Zones 2 and 3 are not affected by Audyssey at all.

I'll upgrade my receiver if there's ever a model with pre outs that continuously outputs downmixed audio (such as provided by the headphone jack) biggrin.gif
post #3944 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

Thank you. You are very helpful.

I didnt know IP control powered the usb port....I dont see how a user would be able to make that connection. Very Confusing!
Yeah they have nothing to do with eachother. Not sure how anyone could connect those dots, except bp and jd of course😉
post #3945 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfottawa View Post

Ok, so I took the plunge in buying my first real receiver - the e300. I haven't set up everything yet, but I am slowly going through the options, mostly the networking features.

I currently run a media server on an unRaid box. Anytime I needed to map to the shared drives on that server on XBMC or any of the windows machines in the house, I would use Windows Network SMB.

Whenever I try to view my media servers on the Denon receiver, it does not show my unraid box at all. I can see my XBMC libraries that are on my ATV, but that is it.

As a test, I did install a UPnP server on unRAID, and it did then seem to recognize it, but I would prefer to use SMB.

Anyone have an idea?

Thanks!

Unfortunately, no D&M receiver understands SMB. They use DLNA.
post #3946 of 6896
I am excited to finally have gotten my X4000! I was playing a bit with the amp configuration. Is there a way to customize it so the front 3 speakers go to the preouts? I was wondering if this could be used as a full pre-processor but it looks like not... Haven't done a full read of the manual just yet.
post #3947 of 6896
Thread Starter 
The preouts are always "hot". There is no special setting needed to activate them.
post #3948 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The preouts are always "hot". There is no special setting needed to activate them.
Awesome thanks! Eventually I plan to get an amp, but I'm not quite there yet in my audiophile journey. cool.gif Just wanted to make sure I was future-proofing myself (at least until real 4K cables (/standards) get set and go mainstream).
post #3949 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by SadPanda83 View Post

Hello all

I just wanted to update everyone on the random shutdown and red flashing light issue. Turns out it was a wiring issue after all. I re-terminated all the cables and since then I've had zero issues. I guess I was just baffled with why it would work for an hour or so before shutting down. My old Yamaha amp use to shut down straight away and would not power up if the was a wiring issue.

Anyhow, I'm pleased all is sorted now. I really love this amp (AVR-X1000), so easy use, great features, great design. I use it everyday, it's that easy. My Yamaha was damn confusing to use that most of the time I did not bother!

I had same issue on my X4000 last night, as it randomly shut off by itself. It is not hot, I turn the volume way down.
Could you elaborate "re-terminated all the cables" ? all speaker wires or HDMI cables ?
Thanks,
post #3950 of 6896
So I setup my new x4000 last night but after reading the manual and googling I do have two questions/problems

Can I run 7.1 in main zone and have zone2/zone3. I don't want to use the pre outs. My old Onkyo 705 would simply grab the amp for the back surrounds when zone 2 was turned on. It seems like i have to manually reassign the amps every time unless I run 5.1in the main zone. That would be a big disappointment if this was the case.

Also with hdmi pass through the volume on my zt60 can no longer be heard (through the tv of course) but I do get video.
Edited by rare-air - 12/6/13 at 5:13am
post #3951 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by tboe77 View Post

I am expecting to take delivery of a new X4000 today or tomorrow, and I have a couple of questions.

I've seen it advised to do a full microprocessor reset upon receipt of a used/refurbished unit. Is it advisable to do one on a brand new unit, prior to setup?


Also, I know that I've seen instructions for checking your configuration save file, to ensure that it worked, but I can't remember where. Can anyone point me to the right spot?


My current receiver is a 3808CI (used as a pre-pro, with an Emotiva XPA-5). My music is all in an iTunes library. Since the 3808 does not have Airplay, I access the music through an Apple TV. Has anyone here used both this method for playing music, as well as Airplay via the receiver? Did you notice any difference in sound quality? Any other pros/cons to mention between these two methods?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

biggrin.gif

^bump

I found the instructions on how to check the save file with a hex editor, so please disregard that question. Expecting to receive my X4000 today! biggrin.gif

Anyone have any input on my other questions? Anyone . . . ? Anyone . . . ? Anyone . . . ? Bueller . . . ? wink.gif
post #3952 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by rare-air View Post

So I setup my new x4000 last night but after reading the manual and googling I do have two questions/problems

Can I run 7.1 in main zone and have zone2/zone3. I don't want to use the pre outs. My old Onkyo 705 would simply grab the amp for the back surrounds when zone 2 was turned on. It seems like i have to manually reassign the amps every time unless I run 5.1in the main zone. That would be a big disappointment if this was the case.

Also with hdmi pass through the volume on my zt60 can no longer be heard (through the tv of course) but I do get video.

I'm not quite sure what you are trying to accomplish. Why don't you want to use the Onkyo for zone 2 and 3? With that scenario you can easily run all 3 zones.
post #3953 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

My qurestion for this thread is: I added a usb fan to cool the receiver. I have the fan blowing air into the unit rather than sucking air out because I noticed it wasnt sucking enough air out to cool it effectively. Blowing cool air into the unit works wonders and it remains ice cold even during LOUD music playback with my rti12s in full range but the fan doesnt turn off when the receiver turns off. I have to plug it out which is a HUGE pain.

Any way to configure the USB port to shut off when the receiver is turned off?


I have posted this a lot but it works great http://catalog.bitsltd.us/catalog/SMART/LEG3.html You can then power more than just the fan if you want. For just the fan it is probably overkill. Another option would be to plug the fan into the TV or other device that is usually on when you have the AVR on.
post #3954 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by rec head View Post

I'm not quite sure what you are trying to accomplish. Why don't you want to use the Onkyo for zone 2 and 3? With that scenario you can easily run all 3 zones.

I was hoping to have access to Zone2 or Zone3 simply by using an Amp to drive the Front Height or Width speaker posts. My Onkyo would dynamically reassign an amp to its zone2 speaker posts. I don't have the room nor do I want another Amp like the Onkyo on my AV shelf simply to drive a few speakers.

I have read that you can pull an Amp from one of the main speaker sets (hopefully the rear surrounds) and drive a second zone. What I don't think they tell you is this is a manual process and not automatic when you fire up zone2. So as I understand it I have to manually go reconfigure the amp assignments to 5/1 & Zone support every time I want to listen in another zone. I was really expecting this to be automatically done when I fire up zone 2 or 3.

My Goal was to have a 7.1 system in the main area that can on occasion use one amp (and become 5.1) to drive a set of speakers without me having to reconfigure the receiver every time.

So to me this is really a 5.1 system that can drive Zone2 or Zone3.
post #3955 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by rare-air View Post

I was hoping to have access to Zone2 or Zone3 simply by using an Amp to drive the Front Height or Width speaker posts. My Onkyo would dynamically reassign an amp to its zone2 speaker posts. I don't have the room nor do I want another Amp like the Onkyo on my AV shelf simply to drive a few speakers.

I have read that you can pull an Amp from one of the main speaker sets (hopefully the rear surrounds) and drive a second zone. What I don't think they tell you is this is a manual process and not automatic when you fire up zone2. So as I understand it I have to manually go reconfigure the amp assignments to 5/1 & Zone support every time I want to listen in another zone. I was really expecting this to be automatically done when I fire up zone 2 or 3.

My Goal was to have a 7.1 system in the main area that can on occasion use one amp (and become 5.1) to drive a set of speakers without me having to reconfigure the receiver every time.

So to me this is really a 5.1 system that can drive Zone2 or Zone3.

You are correct. I guess they could have a setting for that automatic switching like they do with surround formats but I don't know if Denon has ever done it that way. If it did automatically switch then it would be a problem for all the folks (like me) that want to use the all 7 amps in zone 1 and also drive z2/3. I wonder if it is something you could program as a quick select buttons. That would be a fairly easy solution. I haven't used the quick selects so I'm not much help with that but I think this is the type of task they are designed for.
post #3956 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by bautc View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SadPanda83 View Post

Hello all

I just wanted to update everyone on the random shutdown and red flashing light issue. Turns out it was a wiring issue after all. I re-terminated all the cables and since then I've had zero issues. I guess I was just baffled with why it would work for an hour or so before shutting down. My old Yamaha amp use to shut down straight away and would not power up if the was a wiring issue.

Anyhow, I'm pleased all is sorted now. I really love this amp (AVR-X1000), so easy use, great features, great design. I use it everyday, it's that easy. My Yamaha was damn confusing to use that most of the time I did not bother!

I had same issue on my X4000 last night, as it randomly shut off by itself. It is not hot, I turn the volume way down.
Could you elaborate "re-terminated all the cables" ? all speaker wires or HDMI cables ?
Thanks,

He meant that he carefully trimmed back all ends of all speaker cables and reconnected them. Speaker cables are made up of fine wires twisted together in a bundle. It's very easy to not notice that a single strand is sticking out from the bundle and is very close to or touching an adjacent speaker binding post, either on the amp or on the speaker. If it's not quite touching, the vibrations of the sounds in the room can make it touch intermittently. That will cause your receiver to trip off and flash its red front-panel standby light.

Personally, I use banana plugs. It's easy to work with them out in the middle of the room in good light, then plug them into the amp or speaker. Other people prefer soldering the speaker cables to "spade lugs". Working on your knees in the dark down behind equipment or speakers makes it easy to overlook shorts.

You also should check the full length of your speaker cables to make sure they have not been chewed on by pets or rodents (or pet rodents wink.gif )
post #3957 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post


I assume you want music ONLY out of the back surrounds? The easiest way without swapping wires would be to set Amp Asssign to "front B" which turns the back surrounds into B stereo speakers, then use the 2ch config menu (all of this under Manual speaker setup) to assign the "B" speakers for 2ch stereo.


Hello Batpig

 

Appreciate the suggestion. I've trailed through all the settings and it appears this is not possible on the AVR-X1000. There is no amp assign option under manual config, unfortunately.

 

Regards,

 

SP

post #3958 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by rec head View Post

You are correct. I guess they could have a setting for that automatic switching like they do with surround formats but I don't know if Denon has ever done it that way. If it did automatically switch then it would be a problem for all the folks (like me) that want to use the all 7 amps in zone 1 and also drive z2/3. I wonder if it is something you could program as a quick select buttons. That would be a fairly easy solution. I haven't used the quick selects so I'm not much help with that but I think this is the type of task they are designed for.

As I thought thanks for your help. It seems that they could have accommodated both configurations simply by having another setting in the Amp assignments something like (7/1-5/1 & Zone2 or Zone3) in addition to the existing settings.

Out of all the features that I wanted that was one of the biggest to me.

I do like the receiver and I guess I either return it or suck it up and buy two small amps one for patio and one for the bathroom. I do have a harmony but without a discrete code for amp assignments using the menu and scrolling through the selections likely wouldn't work.

Any suggestions for a small inexpensive amp that would be trigger able on/off and that I could control the volume with the remote or IP control?
post #3959 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by bautc View Post

I had same issue on my X4000 last night, as it randomly shut off by itself. It is not hot, I turn the volume way down.
Could you elaborate "re-terminated all the cables" ? all speaker wires or HDMI cables ?
Thanks,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

He meant that he carefully trimmed back all ends of all speaker cables and reconnected them. Speaker cables are made up of fine wires twisted together in a bundle. It's very easy to not notice that a single strand is sticking out from the bundle and is very close to or touching an adjacent speaker binding post, either on the amp or on the speaker. If it's not quite touching, the vibrations of the sounds in the room can make it touch intermittently. That will cause your receiver to trip off and flash its red front-panel standby light.

Personally, I use banana plugs. It's easy to work with them out in the middle of the room in good light, then plug them into the amp or speaker. Other people prefer soldering the speaker cables to "spade lugs". Working on your knees in the dark down behind equipment or speakers makes it easy to overlook shorts.

You also should check the full length of your speaker cables to make sure they have not been chewed on by pets or rodents (or pet rodents wink.gif )
I was having the same issue I was using bare wire on both the speaker and amp. I put banna plugs on the wires at the receiver and insured all of the speakers conections were clean. No issue since.
post #3960 of 6896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post


He meant that he carefully trimmed back all ends of all speaker cables and reconnected them. Speaker cables are made up of fine wires twisted together in a bundle. It's very easy to not notice that a single strand is sticking out from the bundle and is very close to or touching an adjacent speaker binding post, either on the amp or on the speaker. If it's not quite touching, the vibrations of the sounds in the room can make it touch intermittently. That will cause your receiver to trip off and flash its red front-panel standby light.

Personally, I use banana plugs. It's easy to work with them out in the middle of the room in good light, then plug them into the amp or speaker. Other people prefer soldering the speaker cables to "spade lugs". Working on your knees in the dark down behind equipment or speakers makes it easy to overlook shorts.

You also should check the full length of your speaker cables to make sure they have not been chewed on by pets or rodents (or pet rodents wink.gif )

 

Yep, that's what I did. What caught me out was that the shut downs were very random. I could go 2 hours without a shut down. My previous Yamaha would shut down straight away with "sp error" if you tried to switch it on and there was a wiring problem. So, all along, I thought it can't be the same issue on the Denon since I can go 2 hours before the shut down. Anyhow, banana plugs would make your life easier. I just carefully cut the bare wire to a shortening length, enough to go into the speaker terminal, twisted hard and then inserted. Since then I've had zero issues. Just take the time to redo all cables, even if they look okay.

 

Another thing to remember is that if you are pushing your amp back into a cabinet then the wires out the back get squashed, causing bare wires to touch etc. If you don't want to use banana plus, like me, then shorten the bare wire and twist hard. Ensure there is no chance of anything coming in contact with the bare speaker cable.

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