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The 'Official' 2013 Denon "E Series" / "X Series" AVR Model Owner's Thread & FAQ - Page 181

post #5401 of 7000
Am I missing something or did denon change something with their web controller? The Save option seems to be missing as I can't find it. Anyone?
post #5402 of 7000
^^
This is discussed in post #4 of this thread. smile.gif
post #5403 of 7000
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Grooms View Post

With a lack of a decent affordable multi zone network reciever, I was wondering if say the X2000 would work as a 2 zone + 1 device. Say Zone 1 is a stereo pair to the master bedroom and zone 2 is a stereo pair to the lanai. If I add a stereo pair in the master bathroom and connect them to the surround speaker posts in zone 1, selecting multi channel stereo would play both master bedroom and bathroom stereo pairs? I wonder if the surround stereo pair would mirror the information sent to the front pair using multi channel stereo? It would be easy to switch between stereo (bedroom only) and bed and bath (multi channel stereo) using the remote app.

Your thoughts?

It would work as you plan, by toggling between STEREO and MULTICH STEREO, and yes MCH STEREO just duplicates the stereo signal from the fronts to the other pairs of speakers. But there are a few potential downsides to consider:

1. You can basically forget about Audyssey calibration. Unless you are Flash Gordon and can zip the mic between the bedroom and the bathroom to calibrate the "surrounds" tongue.gif Even if you calibrate the stereo pair, as soon as you go into Speaker Config and tell the receiver that you have two surrounds, it will deactive Audyssey and give you a "Run Audyssey" message if you try to turn on Dynamic EQ for example. So that means no EQ, no Dyn Vol, no Dyn EQ for the master bedroom stereo pair.

2. No separate volume control -- the bedroom and bathroom speakers would be tied together as one "main zone" when raising lowering the volume

3. No way to have the bathroom speakers ONLY playing, without the bedroom speakers. May or may not be a problem
post #5404 of 7000
Thanks JD and BP. I'm just trying to figure a way to get android / iPhone controlled network audio into multiple zones affordably. An A/B switch would be handy...
post #5405 of 7000
Thread Starter 
If you only need stereo support, I might be tempted to just go with a wireless system like Sonos in each "zone".

Or, alternately, if you will just be streaming from a hub with smartphone control, what about making each "Zone" an Airplay "Speaker", with an Airport Express + 2ch Amp for each "Zone" you want to be independent. They could then easily be controlled from an iDevice with the ability to turn each one on/off and control volume independently.
post #5406 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
This is discussed in post #4 of this thread. smile.gif

Found it, thanks! My laptop did a lot of updates since it hadn't been on in a while and guess it screwed something up.😕
post #5407 of 7000
I don't know if this question would be more suitable for an Audyssey thread, but it might be specific to the Audyssey implementation in the X4000, so I'm starting here.

I have a single PSA XS30 subwoofer. The general recommendation regarding setup for PSA subs is to set the gain knob on the sub in the 1:00 - 3:00 range. I had the gain set at 3:00 when I was using my Denon 3808CI, and the Audyssey XT calibration process resulted in a trim level of -7db. It was my habit to run 3db hot, so the trim level sat at -4db.

Recently, I upgraded to the X4000 in order to get XT32. When I ran the calibration, the X4000 kept asking me to turn down the gain on the sub. It would not let me proceed with the rest of the calibration until I had reduced the gain to between the 12:00 and 1:00 positions. I did so. When the calibration was complete, the sub's trim level was -2db. I found I needed about 4db of boost to get the bass response back to where I liked it, resulting in a level of +2db in the AVR.

Recently I read in another thread (I think it was the "Master List of Bass in Movies" thread) that if you are going to boost your sub level, it is better to raise the gain in the sub and start at a higher trim level (say, the -6 to -8 db region) so that you can apply your desired boost while still remaining at or below 0db in the AVR. The reason stated for this was that having the level above 0 db in the AVR could lead to clipping of the signal.

So, my question is:

Is there a way to force the X4000 to continue the calibration with the higher gain setting on my sub? Or, is this something that I really don't need to worry about.
post #5408 of 7000
Thread Starter 
I don't think the initial sub level check thing is mandatory -- are you SURE it won't let you proceed?

That said, I think it's much ado about nothing and you should just leave it as is and enjoy. A trim setting of +2 isn't going to hurt anything.
post #5409 of 7000
I agree, between +5 and -5 should not cause any issues. I usually aim the subs for around -3 or 4, because Ive found I always need about +5db boost.

I just added a second sub and they landed around -6.0db combined, so when I boosted 5db after checking them, Im sitting at -1.0.
post #5410 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

I don't think the initial sub level check thing is mandatory -- are you SURE it won't let you proceed?

Not completely sure, but I couldn't seem to find a way around it. I was in a hurry, though.
post #5411 of 7000
You won't clip the pre outputs, even @ +10 you're way below any audible distortion. I like to calibrate my customers sub levels in the + category. It sends a stronger signal and the sub's auto on/off always works...
post #5412 of 7000
The worry, and this was getting advice from Hsu about my subs, is too high on the positive depending on the sub can overdrive the signal. Since you basically have control over the thing, just aim for +5 to -5. Ther eis not reason to deal with +10, since it just takes a simple knob adjustment.
post #5413 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by tboe77 View Post


So, my question is:

Is there a way to force the X4000 to continue the calibration with the higher gain setting on my sub? Or, is this something that I really don't need to worry about.

As long as the sub trim isn't pegged at +/-12db, then you're good to go. The recommendation in the Audyssey 101/FAQ Guide to get the setting in the +/-3db range after the "preference" setting adjustment is made is, as Tom notes, to ensure the sub will kick on when in "Auto" mode.
post #5414 of 7000

Subscribed...and question.

 

DENON Warranty

 

I recently purchased an open box AVR-E300 from Best Buy.  The rep told me that it came with the full 2-yr Denon warranty.  Then, as I was checking out, the floor manager told me that Denon and a few other companies void the warranty on open box units.  Of course, he also tried to sell me the GeekSquad warranty.

 

The box and unit are immaculate.  The manuals and remote were not opened.  The unit did not even have any fingerprints on it.  It was likely a Christmas purchase and return.

 

Anyway, what is Denon's warranty policy on open box sales?

Do I still have the Denon 2-yr warranty?

post #5415 of 7000
Thread Starter 
Floor manager was trying to scam you. They make their money on the extended warranties. Open box purchases from an authorized dealer come with full warranty (unless Denon has changed something very recently, which I doubt).
post #5416 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by BombaytheGreat View Post

Subscribed...and question.

DENON Warranty

I recently purchased an open box AVR-E300 from Best Buy.  The rep told me that it came with the full 2-yr Denon warranty.  Then, as I was checking out, the floor manager told me that Denon and a few other companies void the warranty on open box units.  Of course, he also tried to sell me the GeekSquad warranty.

The box and unit are immaculate.  The manuals and remote were not opened.  The unit did not even have any fingerprints on it.  It was likely a Christmas purchase and return.

Anyway, what is Denon's warranty policy on open box sales?
Do I still have the Denon 2-yr warranty?

Yup. smile.gif
post #5417 of 7000

Yeah, kinda what I thought.  My Spidey Sense tingled and I did not bite.

post #5418 of 7000
This is a little off topic, but when I sold my 4310 and bought the X4000, one of the only features I miss is the lack of a switched outlet on the back. I used it to turn on the bias light that illuminates the wall behind my monitor.

I bought a power strip (Smart Strip SCG3 Energy Saving Power Strip with Autoswitching Technology) that has a number of outlets that switch on and off in tandem with whatever is plugged into the "control outlet," which in my case would be the X4000. There is a sensitivity adjustment to compensate for the power used in "standby" mode by the controlling device.

. However, it doesn't work right. Either the switched outlets refuse to go on, or they refuse to go off. So the "smart strip" is going back.

Does anyone know of a power strip device like this that actually works?
post #5419 of 7000
I have a x2000 and when playing music with airplay with my laptop through Itunes, I can only get a max volume of 74. I would like to get it louder but it will only go to 74. Anyone have any ideas of a setting or something that will allow it to go higher than 74. thanks
post #5420 of 7000
Many thanks to all who responded to my question!
post #5421 of 7000
New Denon X400 here. After setup and getting everything working just right, I was notified online that a software update is available--and that it would take about 45 minutes as I recall. My demands on the AVR are not high, and everything is working very well, so I see no particular reason to do the update. Can anyone alert me to the aspects of the update that might benefit a not very demanding user. The things that are more important to me are cable-sat, blu-ray, CD, Game, Media Player, 2-zone mode, network, options, and internet radio--all of which, given the level at which I tend to do things, appear to be working AOK. To explain, when I say everything is working well," "given the level at which I tend to do things," etc., I am trying to express the idea that, beyond a point, I don't give a hang about the multiplicity of possibilities that are open to an AVR hobby-ist.

Thank you very much for all replies in advance.
post #5422 of 7000
^^
Please review posts #3-6 on page 1 of this thread for valuable setup and troubleshooting information to include a list of the firmware change log in post #6.
post #5423 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbarach View Post

This is a little off topic, but when I sold my 4310 and bought the X4000, one of the only features I miss is the lack of a switched outlet on the back. I used it to turn on the bias light that illuminates the wall behind my monitor.

I bought a power strip (Smart Strip SCG3 Energy Saving Power Strip with Autoswitching Technology) that has a number of outlets that switch on and off in tandem with whatever is plugged into the "control outlet," which in my case would be the X4000. There is a sensitivity adjustment to compensate for the power used in "standby" mode by the controlling device.

. However, it doesn't work right. Either the switched outlets refuse to go on, or they refuse to go off. So the "smart strip" is going back.

Does anyone know of a power strip device like this that actually works?

The Bits Limited smart strips seem to get mixed reviews, although they have worked for others when the sensitivity switch is adjusted. You may want to try another model as the LEG series is designed for AVRs.
post #5424 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgb24 View Post

I have a x2000 and when playing music with airplay with my laptop through Itunes, I can only get a max volume of 74. I would like to get it louder but it will only go to 74. Anyone have any ideas of a setting or something that will allow it to go higher than 74. thanks

First note that you generally never want to go above 80/0db to ensure there is sufficient headroom available. Secondly, the volume limitation is likely due to iTunes. Try using the X2000 remote for a higher volume level.
post #5425 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbarach View Post

This is a little off topic, but when I sold my 4310 and bought the X4000, one of the only features I miss is the lack of a switched outlet on the back. I used it to turn on the bias light that illuminates the wall behind my monitor.

I bought a power strip (Smart Strip SCG3 Energy Saving Power Strip with Autoswitching Technology) that has a number of outlets that switch on and off in tandem with whatever is plugged into the "control outlet," which in my case would be the X4000. There is a sensitivity adjustment to compensate for the power used in "standby" mode by the controlling device.

. However, it doesn't work right. Either the switched outlets refuse to go on, or they refuse to go off. So the "smart strip" is going back.

Does anyone know of a power strip device like this that actually works?

I went through the same thing. You need this power strip http://catalog.bitsltd.us/catalog/SMART/LEG3.html

It works perfectly.
post #5426 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

First note that you generally never want to go above 80/0db to ensure there is sufficient headroom available. Secondly, the volume limitation is likely due to iTunes. Try using the X2000 remote for a higher volume level.

If I use x2000 remote it will go up to 75-76 and goes back to 74. It is pretty loud at 74 but would like to figure out how to get it to go above 74.
post #5427 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Please review posts #3-6 on page 1 of this thread for valuable setup and troubleshooting information to include a list of the firmware change log in post #6.
Thanks very much. Yes, I am familiar with:

E400
1. 3/30/2013
- The product corresponded to Gapless Playback from Mobile App.
- The Picture View setting cannot be stored.
- AirPlay cannot be executed while executing SlideShow.
- AirPlay cannot be executed from Function other than Network.
2. 7/18/2013
- See update for the X4000 for same date

X4000


2. 7/18/2013
- VIewing photos vis USB interface, the 4:3 image is stretched in width severely
- When Usage Data is set to OFF, the PopUp display of restart was added to the specification
- Setup Assistant starts by connecting the HDMI cable
- After the firmware is update, the device is not found via the iOS application
- Spelling mistakes on Web GUI

To your knowledge is the 7/18/2013 update the latest? I don't recall if the push on the 55 minuted update I mentioned showed a date. It didn't seem to me that the updates listed above combined would likely take 55 minutes. Any thoughts???

None of the listed fixes apparently would affect me or my modus operandi in any significant way [i.e., I am not using, nor am I planning to use, AirPlay (I use Apple TV) or to view photos via USB]. While the meaning is not clear to me, "after the firmware is update [sic], the device is not found via the iOS application" sounds like a possibly good reason not to do the update, but who knows?

Thank you very much again.
post #5428 of 7000
^^
Considering I've had my X4000 since last July 2013, yes I'm fairly confident that the updates for the X4000 are current. wink.gif And as far as time required, updates can take anywhere from 10 minutes to 45 minutes each. Also note that what is listed is what is actually fixed and is printed as it comes from Japan so no reason to point out [sic].
post #5429 of 7000
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Considering I've had my X4000 since last July 2013, yes I'm fairly confident that the updates for the X4000 are current. wink.gif And as far as time required, updates can take anywhere from 10 minutes to 45 minutes each. Also note that what is listed is what is actually fixed and is printed as it comes from Japan so no reason to point out [sic].
So, are saying that an update could take from 10 to 45 minutes even if the update announcement says 45 minutes? Did any X4000 update you have done take 45 minutes? I actually did the update in question on an E400 that I had to return. Indeed, this update did take about 45 minutes. So, my basic puzzlement about it taking 45 minutes to update what is indicated in my prior post remains.


FWIW, "sic" applies to whatever one is quoting whether or not what is "printed comes from Japan." smile.gif
post #5430 of 7000
Ive never had a 10 min update, but Ive had a few 40 minute ones on D&M models.
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