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*Official* Samsung UNxxF5000 and UNxxF5500 Owners Thread - Page 6

post #151 of 781
Brightness setting actually affects the black level not the overall picture brightness, a lower setting will make the dark areas of a picture look darker and a higher setting will bring them brighter.
To low and you'll lose detail in the dark areas to high and the picture will look washed out with poor contrast.
To tweak the overall brightness/luminance you tweak Contrast and/or Backlight.
I'd like to have as much contrast/dynamic range as possible without compromissing detail or accuracy (I'm striving for accuracy).
The trick is to have Brightness setting as low as possible, without destroying detail in the black areas, and Contrast as high as possible without making the picture look an eyes burner nor destroying detail in the white areas. At the same time that the Color settings match perfectly with the Contrast/Brightness balance, I noticed that a higher Contrast setting increases perceivable color saturation so it's a balancing at.

Interesting that you don't have the HDMI Black level option... on my TV this option is available so I guess it means my setbox is not sending a 0-255 range output.
Initially I liked to have this option set to Low as it did indeed make the overall colors and blacks look deeper, but then I thought that it was doing this destroying detail just like Dynamic Contrast... I guess I should try it again with my current settings.

Which I slightly changed again lol.
I noticed that my last settings provided a slightly poor color saturation and contrast, low dynamic range, to conservative.
So I tweaked the Backlight, the Contrast, and Brightness settings to get something more vivid less dead.
At the same time I Disabled Black Tone as I can do better with the correct Brightness/Contrast balance anyway.

Preset: Movie
Backlight: 18 (Depends on ambient ilumination but this setting works well in all situations for here)
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 35
Color Space: Auto
Black Tone: Disabled

Everything else same as last settings.
I could still tweak Gamma and HDMI Black Level but it already looks great as it is.
Right now there's just a bit to much red in human skin sometimes, probably further tweak in the white balance settings to clear that out.
I'm getting the AVS disk soon.

Dynamic and Natural presets look pathetic to me lol specially after comparing to the tweaked Standard and Movie presets.
Dynamic and Natural probably have Dynamic Contrast and Black Tone settings at extremes.

In Movie mode all colors are less saturated than in standard if you use exactly the same settings.
But it will be very noticeable in human skin that will look a lot more red in Standard than in Movie.
Standard = Movie + 3 to 5 points in Backlight/Contrast + 8 to 12 points in Color

I just wish someone would find a way to unlock the 10 point white balance controls on the UE32F5000, that would be the cherry on top of the cake!
I've read testimonies of people doing this in older models by changing the model number on the Service Menu, but naturally I wouldn't want to be the first to try it on my F5000...
post #152 of 781
Hello guys,

I want to buy the 42 inch f5000 but i would like to know if it has the same input lag as the 32 and 46 inch version. While in the US you could buy the 40 inch f5000 but it doesn't seems to be available in Europe. So i want to know is the 42 inch panel different when you compare it to the 46 inch f5000 and does this affect the input lag.
post #153 of 781
I don't know for sure but...

http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ue42f5500-201308193252.htm

Most F5x00 series Samsung TVs seem to have generally low input lag and if the above review is anything to go by, the 42F5000 lag shouldn't be bad at all as it is basically an F5500 without the smart TV features and less connectivity...
I don't know about the panel used on the 42F5000 though... the 42F5500 in the reviews where I read about it's panel had an AU Optronics panel...

http://www.digitalversus.com/tv-television/samsung-ue42f5500-p15519/test.html

In this review it could be deduced that Samsung doesn't produce panels for 42' screens at all... :/
post #154 of 781
Some info regarding the influence of Digital and Mpeg Noise Reduction settings.
I had been neglecting these settings until this morning where I started to fiddle with them to see what they really where doing.
I easily noticed that when these settings are set to anything active they introduce noticeable Motion Blur and have a counterproductive effect if one sets Sharpness to a non 0 value.

Dig/Mpeg noise reduction settings do effectivelly smooth out some grain in the pictures but they do this by smearing the fine details which makes everything look smooth and blurred and movement is definitely blurred.
The blurred look of the image is what made me increase sharpness to 20 which in turn increased Motion Blur even more.
After disabling both noise reduction settings the pics looked a lot more defined but then unaturally sharp so I put 0 on Sharpness and everything looked so much better, more natural and with drastically improved motion resolution!

This is probably an old knowing around these parts but it's never to much to repeat...
For those who are having issues with Motion Blur make sure to disable any Noise Reduction and in fact any post processing feature in your Samsung TV, Sharpness included!
This way you ensure that the picture in your TV screen is truer to the source and has the best motion resolution.
post #155 of 781
Just bought the UN22F5000 for the kitchen. I've been waiting five years for my wife to say she wanted one. Got a nice articulating arm so I'll be able to push it under the cabinets. Can't wait.
post #156 of 781
Another discovery! My Blu-ray player has multiple color space outputs. When set to RGB (0-255), auto dimming works with the F5000's brightness no higher than 61. The problem with this is while blacks are deep, brighter shades of whites blur more than ever. I set my Blu-ray player to YCbCr4:2:2 since that is closest to a disc's 4:2:0 color space, and set brightness to 45. It would be cool if there was a color space in between 0-255 and 16-235 so that I can obtain the deepest blacks and brightest whites without blur. Although it's not a big deal because with the normal color space, a brightness setting of 55 produces a peak white slightly brighter than a brightness setting of 45, but not so drastic that I'd give up deep blacks. I haven't noticed a difference between 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 color space settings. Have you?
post #157 of 781
Does the 5500 have bluetooth in order to use a wireless keyboard? If not, can you use a bluetooth adapter in the usb port? You know, the little dongle?

Does anyone have a photo of the remote they can post?
post #158 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvluvr View Post

Does the 5500 have bluetooth in order to use a wireless keyboard? If not, can you use a bluetooth adapter in the usb port? You know, the little dongle?

Does anyone have a photo of the remote they can post?

There is no bluetooth. I don't have a bluetooth adapter to try, but I use a wireless logitech keyboard and mouse that use a Logitech Unifying Receiver that I plug into the TV's usb port. Here is the remote. Click on it for a closer view:


Edited by jprc - 9/25/13 at 6:37pm
post #159 of 781
Thanks for the info and the photo. I (incorrectly) assumed wireless keyboards were all bluetooth. As long as one works with a USB receiver, I'm good.

How is internet surfing - is it just like a computer?
What is the browser? Proprietary, Internet explorer, etc?

Can you stream from Netflix, Hulu, ABC, CBS, etc?
post #160 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvluvr View Post

Thanks for the info and the photo. I (incorrectly) assumed wireless keyboards were all bluetooth. As long as one works with a USB receiver, I'm good.

How is internet surfing - is it just like a computer?
What is the browser? Proprietary, Internet explorer, etc?

Can you stream from Netflix, Hulu, ABC, CBS, etc?


It's a proprietary browser so you won't have things like extensions that you can add-on. I personally wouldn't try to replace my computer browser with this. However it is very functional for a smart device browser. It has multiple tabs, private browsing, pop-up blocker (depending on the website, you may need to turn this off to view video or to go full screen). It will be slower than your computer browser but that does not affect streaming for me. Once you get through the slow navigation and the video finally loads, it has always played very smoothly for me. I am using a 5GHz wireless network, which may or may not make a difference and I'm sure your internet provider and speed can make a difference as well. But all videos I have viewed through the browser have no lag or stuttering in picture or audio at all. I've been very happy. It's just slow navigating and waiting for video to load.

I have watched shows from abc, cbs, The Daily Show website, The Colbert Report website, and other video sites. I'm sure there are limitations to what you can and can't view in this browser but offhand I don't know what is and isn't supported. You can't install plugins so it's a matter of what is built-in. I wouldn't assume you will be able to watch video from all sites, but I've has pretty good luck so far. I can watch in full screen mode in all the sites I mentioned as well.

Now for sites like Hulu and Netflix, there are Samsung apps in the Smart Hub, which can be access by that multi-colored button in the middle of remote. This is much easier than using the browser. There are actually quite a lot of Samsung apps. Some come pre-installed like Netflix, Hulu Plus, Amazon, Youtube, HBO Go, and several others and then there are a bunch more you can choose to install. I haven't even gone through all the apps yet but they are divided into categories when you click on the app called "Samsung Apps" and you can browse through them and choose to install. There is a Samsung Plex app, for instance, if you happen to run a Plex server like I do, so you can easily play your local media.

Since you asked about keyboards, you should be aware than keyboard and mouse support for these apps is dependent on the individual app maker, not Samsung. For example, Netflix has not provided keyboard or mouse support - I keep meaning to get in touch with them and ask them for this but I always just use my computer to search and then add everything to Queue anyway, so I forgot about it. For apps that have not implemented keyboard or mouse support into their apps, you will only be able to use things like the navigation (arrow) keys, enter, esc, etc- basically keys that correspond to actual buttons on the remote, but not type letters with a wireless keyboard. The browser, which is Samsung made, has mouse and keyboard support. But no right clicking since that brings up a menu of TV function shortcuts.

Anyway, I think that's plenty of info for you. If there is something that is a deal breaker for you, you can ask and I'll see if it works if I'm able to, but otherwise you should get a pretty good idea from what I've written already.
post #161 of 781
Wow, Thanks for taking the time and explaining well. Going to order.
post #162 of 781
Two questions regarding my setup. Not real knowledgeable on all terminology, so my apologies. If this is posted in the wrong section, please advise.

1. Just picked up the F5500. Here's how I have things set up: Cable box and PS3 video to TV via HDMI. Optical from PS3 and TV to receiver. Where my receiver has no HDMI in/out, I must change source manually between PS3 and TV. TV audio output is set to external speakers and DTS. Any suggestions to improve?

2. I cannot get the receiver to respond to the Samsung remote. I have gone through the setup which asks for the manufacturer (Onkyo). It then attempts three times to turn the receiver on/off - stating that it should take 10 seconds to run the test. None of the tests activate the receiver. It the suggests that you search by model number, which I do, and choose the specific Onkyo from the Samsung database. It then runs two more tests - both of which have no effect. When it is trying to send the signal, is it doing it from the remote, or from the IR extender? (The IR extender is operating the cable box correctly.) I'd obviously like to use the remote to turn the receiver on/off and control the volume as I did with my Comcast remote.

Thanks for the help,
NHAnimator
post #163 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by NHAnimator View Post

Two questions regarding my setup. Not real knowledgeable on all terminology, so my apologies. If this is posted in the wrong section, please advise.

1. Just picked up the F5500. Here's how I have things set up: Cable box and PS3 video to TV via HDMI. Optical from PS3 and TV to receiver. Where my receiver has no HDMI in/out, I must change source manually between PS3 and TV. TV audio output is set to external speakers and DTS. Any suggestions to improve?

2. I cannot get the receiver to respond to the Samsung remote. I have gone through the setup which asks for the manufacturer (Onkyo). It then attempts three times to turn the receiver on/off - stating that it should take 10 seconds to run the test. None of the tests activate the receiver. It the suggests that you search by model number, which I do, and choose the specific Onkyo from the Samsung database. It then runs two more tests - both of which have no effect. When it is trying to send the signal, is it doing it from the remote, or from the IR extender? (The IR extender is operating the cable box correctly.) I'd obviously like to use the remote to turn the receiver on/off and control the volume as I did with my Comcast remote.

Thanks for the help,
NHAnimator

It's sending it from the IR extender. That needs to be in line of sight of the sensor on your Onkyo without obstruction.
post #164 of 781
Thanks jprc,

Just jumped on with that discovery. I got it to work by moving the IR to the front of the receiver. It no longer sits in front of the STB, but it appears to be less picky.

Thanks
post #165 of 781
Remember when I said that with brightness at 45 or 46, peak whites weren't as bright as when set to 55 or higher? I finally figured out a way to maintain similar whites at 45 or 46. In Picture>Advanced>Wite Balance (is that what it was called?), leave RGB Offset at 25, but move the gain up to 35. This way, the shades of white aren't blurry, but are clear and bright. If you like autodimming, set the brightness to 45. If you don't like autodimming, set brightness to 46. Oh yeah ... I was doing this in Standard mode. Dynamic doesn't allow access to the advanced settings. Movie mode and Dynamic mode don't get as bright as Standard. Also, colors seem less saturated in Movie mode. It took me a while to really get this TV to perform at its peak potential, but I think I finally got it. Maybe next I'll play with color saturation and see if I could get it to look like a CRT.
Edited by Big C - 9/26/13 at 9:41pm
post #166 of 781
Does the UN50EH5000 supports CEC?
I have a Rainshadow CEC adapter but I can't seem to get the TV to respond to any commands. Wonder if anyone has CEC experience on these.

Thanks
post #167 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbadia View Post

Does the UN50EH5000 supports CEC?
I have a Rainshadow CEC adapter but I can't seem to get the TV to respond to any commands. Wonder if anyone has CEC experience on these.

Thanks

In your TV menu, under System, does it have an Anynet setting? My 5500 has CEC support, which on the Samsung is called Anynet, but I don't know about the 5000.

Edit: I just noticed you were posting in the wrong thread. Here is the thread for your TV: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406151/the-official-2012-samsung-eh4000-eh5000-eh5300-owners-thread/0_100
Edited by jprc - 9/28/13 at 2:08pm
post #168 of 781

Greetings guys! 

 

Here, I have 02 silly questions related to Samsung F5000 series. 

 

01) What're the exact differences between F5000 and F5100 models? 

02) Possibility of Color calibration/Adjustment under USB movie mode. (via Build-in Media Player). 

 

Recently I have brought 40" Samsung F5000 & most of the times, I'm watching movies using direct USB playback Mode.

 

Under this mode, TV has very limited access to the color calibration as it only allows to switch between 03 basic color profiles. :(  Even though you're having customize Standard color profile, that will not gonna applicable under Media Player mode. It always applies the factory standard over the customized profile. 

 

Can someone confirm this? Are we really gonna stick into 03 basic factory profiles under Media Player mode?  :(

 

Thanks :)  


Edited by iBoody - 9/30/13 at 5:12am
post #169 of 781
I just recently bought the 40" 5500 off of Amazon to use as a computer monitor. I must say I'm really surprised at how terrible the motion blur / ghosting is on this HDTV. The blur is worse than I have ever seen on an LCD. I'm not exaggerating. Does anyone have recommendations on settings if one wants to use this HDTV as a monitor? If I scroll fast enough on my word processor or e-mail via my mouse wheel, I can see blur 8" to 10" long on large text or pics with about the bottom third being dark all against a white back ground. Regular text when scrolling on a word processor looks sort of like how rain creates stains on the outside of a building.

That all said, I'm willing to believe that perhaps I've got something in my settings that may be fostering this. A point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I'm looking to make this just a HDTV and look for something else as a monitor.
post #170 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckAtZero View Post

I just recently bought the 40" 5500 off of Amazon to use as a computer monitor. I must say I'm really surprised at how terrible the motion blur / ghosting is on this HDTV. The blur is worse than I have ever seen on an LCD. I'm not exaggerating. Does anyone have recommendations on settings if one wants to use this HDTV as a monitor? If I scroll fast enough on my word processor or e-mail via my mouse wheel, I can see blur 8" to 10" long on large text or pics with about the bottom third being dark all against a white back ground. Regular text when scrolling on a word processor looks sort of like how rain creates stains on the outside of a building.

That all said, I'm willing to believe that perhaps I've got something in my settings that may be fostering this. A point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I'm looking to make this just a HDTV and look for something else as a monitor.

I have not experienced this at all on my 32 inch F5500 connected to my laptop via HDMI so I would think it is something you can correct in settings, either on your TV or on your computer. My TV picture settings are on Movie mode default settings. My computer would differ from yours of course but I did not have to change any settings on my computer when I connected it to my TV. I get no blur at all. I am only using the built-in mouse to scroll but I just tried to get some motion blur and ghosting as hard as I could and the picture is perfect for me. So, yes, I would try altering your settings on both devices.
post #171 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post

In your TV menu, under System, does it have an Anynet setting? My 5500 has CEC support, which on the Samsung is called Anynet, but I don't know about the 5000.

Edit: I just noticed you were posting in the wrong thread. Here is the thread for your TV: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406151/the-official-2012-samsung-eh4000-eh5000-eh5300-owners-thread/0_100

Oh man, good catch on the wrong thread. Sorry about that.
The Anynet setting is good to know, I will check for that anyway.

Thanks!
Dave
post #172 of 781

Hi people! Someone did calibration for 39F5300 (display 39P6aF05S: 39" S-MVA Chimei Innolux) or someone know where i can find good image settings for this model? Trying to make better screen image, cuz default settings not satisfied me(

Thanks in advance for help!

post #173 of 781
Not really productive to use someone else settings because of product variation... I don't know anyone with your particular TV model size anyway, never heard about a 39" F5300...
Usually it is advised to switch to Movie mode and to turn off all artificial enhancement features if you want to keep your picture as accurate as possible without proper calibration tools.
If you care to really spend time learning about what looks accurate in your TV, you'll figure out what works best eventually.
post #174 of 781
Ok. Got the tv 5500. Also got the logictech k750 wireless keyboard and mouse. Mouse works but the keyboard will not work in the web browser. What am I doing wrong?
post #175 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvluvr View Post

Ok. Got the tv 5500. Also got the logictech k750 wireless keyboard and mouse. Mouse works but the keyboard will not work in the web browser. What am I doing wrong?

My first guess is that you haven't really selected the field even though you think you have. If you don't see the onscreen keyboard, then you haven't selected it even if you see the blinking cursor. Keep clicking to learn where to select.
post #176 of 781
Got it. Thanks!
post #177 of 781
Hi guys,

I just bought a 40F5300 LED but eventually left it in the store..
Just before leaving with my new TV I realized I forgot to check the panel..its version was HS01 (that indicates a Sharp panel IIRC)
I asked the store to order a new batch of TVs and they did, but in the end all of them were Sharp panels.
Should I cancel the order and look for a TSxx panel somewhere else?

Is the Sharp panel inferior than the Samsung one? Can you link me to a benchmark or some sort of an article? (Google it, I know..couldn't find anything)

I haven't seen a F5300 model with a Samsung panel yet..so I doubt it even exists. Is there a way to make sure that I'm not chasing something that doesn't even exist?

Thanks!
post #178 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by shays10 View Post

Hi guys,

I just bought a 40F5300 LED but eventually left it in the store..
Just before leaving with my new TV I realized I forgot to check the panel..its version was HS01 (that indicates a Sharp panel IIRC)
I asked the store to order a new batch of TVs and they did, but in the end all of them were Sharp panels.
Should I cancel the order and look for a TSxx panel somewhere else?

Is the Sharp panel inferior than the Samsung one? Can you link me to a benchmark or some sort of an article? (Google it, I know..couldn't find anything)

I haven't seen a F5300 model with a Samsung panel yet..so I doubt it even exists. Is there a way to make sure that I'm not chasing something that doesn't even exist?

Thanks!

I don't have an answer for you but I would try searching some asian language websites (I don't know what languages you speak). I'm assuming you are in an Asian country since that appears to be the only place a 40 inch F5300 is sold. In the United States, where I am, the F5300 is a Plasma TV and does not come in 40 inch anyway. There are F5300 in other countries, like the UK, but I only see a 40" size in Asian countries (just basing this on a google search). I only remember one person posting in this thread that they had an Asian model F5xxx, so unless they happen to have an answer for you, I think you can get more info on an Asian language site.
post #179 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post

I have not experienced this at all on my 32 inch F5500 connected to my laptop via HDMI so I would think it is something you can correct in settings, either on your TV or on your computer. My TV picture settings are on Movie mode default settings. My computer would differ from yours of course but I did not have to change any settings on my computer when I connected it to my TV. I get no blur at all. I am only using the built-in mouse to scroll but I just tried to get some motion blur and ghosting as hard as I could and the picture is perfect for me. So, yes, I would try altering your settings on both devices.

I've tried a few things...

  • latest Radeon drivers for my video card
  • different HDMI ports
  • different cables
  • shutting off all video processing on HDTV that is possible
  • Movie mode

At the end of the day, I get blurring in a bad way. Would be nice to know if others can repeat this problem or not. Simply run your word processor and type a message with the largest font you can. Give yourself lots of carriage returns before and after the test message and scroll with your mouse wheel up and down.... the ghosting should be pretty obvious.

I'm really close to sending this HDTV back to Amazon if someone can verify that the problem is likely I bought a lemon.
post #180 of 781
Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckAtZero View Post

I've tried a few things...

  • latest Radeon drivers for my video card
  • different HDMI ports
  • different cables
  • shutting off all video processing on HDTV that is possible
  • Movie mode

At the end of the day, I get blurring in a bad way. Would be nice to know if others can repeat this problem or not. Simply run your word processor and type a message with the largest font you can. Give yourself lots of carriage returns before and after the test message and scroll with your mouse wheel up and down.... the ghosting should be pretty obvious.

I'm really close to sending this HDTV back to Amazon if someone can verify that the problem is likely I bought a lemon.


See if renaming the input to PC helps. You press SOURCE, then highlight the input, then press Tools. Choose Edit Name and choose PC (or try DVI PC if you connect by DVI).
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