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*Official* Samsung UNxxF5000 and UNxxF5500 Owners Thread - Page 10

post #271 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Another discovery:

On the Brightness Test screen of the THX Optimizer, not all the squares across the top were visible. So in all three picture modes, I changed the Brightness from 45 to 55. Now, all the squares across the top are visible. The real trick is not to let the darkest square rise above the TV's surface(serfice?) black. In Dynamic mode, set the Contrast to 85. In Standard mode, set the Contrast to 90 and the White Balance RGB Offsets and Gains to 25. In Movie mode, set the Contrast to 100 and the White Balance RGB Offsets and Gains to 25. For best static performance, use Movie mode on a regular basis. When I say static, I mean as little autodimming as possible, or in the case of Movie mode, totally eliminating autodimming. The rest of the settings can stay as I posted them a few days ago.
Actually, even in Standard mode, the Contrast needs to be set to 85.

Saying that this TV sucks is an overexaduration. Even with its two noticeable issues, its picture and audio are fantastic. KKL10's explanation of the tint change on peak whites sounds spot on. Although it's only the last shade of white on the MonitorPerformance screen of the THX Optimizer, I wish this TV was able to push reds that extra mile so maximum luminance could be obtained and I didn't have to turn the contrast down. I tried selecting a color temperature of Cool. While that provided more consistancy from black to gray to white, it made other things look bad. So giving up some luminance seems to be the only solution. At least I am still able to have things higher than calibrated by the reviewer who inspired me to get this TV, obtaining a level higher than the stated 347.39 CD/M2, making this TV good for daytime viewing. Also, itwould be helpful if there is a way to completely eliminate autodimming for a more responsive picture. I wonder if Samsung could make reds go that extra mile and give us the option to turn off autodimming via a USB firmware update. It would be nice.
post #272 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post

If the 5000 has the same menu as the 5500, you can find your software version under Menu - Support - Software Update. You do not have to update your software to see it and even if an update is not available, just highlight that and on the right you will see your version. I don't think the version is going to make a difference in this but that's how you find it.

I personally don't see any of this auto dimming as long as I have all the eco and motion settings off.

jprc is right, the steps to find the firmware version should be the same in both series.
The User menus are the same in most Samsung TVs nowadays, just the Smart features and some more advanced settings are missing from the F5000.
Alternativelly clicking "Contact Samsung" in Support menu will display the full description of the firmware, in my TV it displays T-MST13DEUC - 1008.0.
No need to go into Service Menu to find this information.

jprc have you found a setting in Service Menu that controls or has an influence in auto dimming behaviour and could you tell it's current value? (Surprised nobody asked this to you yet)
When your TV displays a completely black screen it doesn't dimm at all? (My TV always dimms in such situation even with all ECO and Motion Lightning settings disabled)
If TVs have different auto dimming behaviour, I'd like to know what exactly causes that difference and I can't think of anything else besides firmware or some setting in Service Menu as the possible causes...
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post

what's the neutral sharpess setting on the 32F5000 when feeding a PC in "PC mode" in your opinion? 50 looks too sharp to me and I believe 45 is where the party's at?

In PC mode the Sharpness neutral setting is it's default 50, according to the 4:4:4 chroma sampling thread.
To me this generally looks the same as a setting of 0 in non PC mode.
How sharp or blurry the picture actually looks on the screen to my eyes depends very much on the resolution being feeded by the source (and if the TV upscales it) and the way how the source is configured.
1080p looks sharp and clear to me and I feel no need to mess with the Sharpness, anything below looks less sharp and I might feel the need to raise the setting a bit.
Fortunatelly Sharpness works very well in PC mode.
post #273 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

I wish this TV was able to push reds that extra mile so maximum luminance could be obtained and I didn't have to turn the contrast down. So giving up some luminance seems to be the only solution.

Yes it's a balancing act.
post #274 of 782

I keep comparing and I still feel like 45 is the neutral value, 50 looking really "thin" in 1080p60.000 but I do realize that a more precise chroma will provide sharper looking fonts so it might very well be that my eyes simply need to adjust :o

 

Anyway, I just calibrated a 32R AUO panel and there ya go(no CLUT on the PC or service manual hack, all done within the TV OSD): imagebam.com

 

Black level = 0.04 cd/m²
50%   level = 29.37 cd/m²
White level = 139.96 cd/m²
Aprox. gamma = 2.25
Contrast ratio = 3342:1
White chromaticity coordinates 0.3121, 0.3290
White Correlated Color Temperature = 6538K, ΔE 2K to locus =  5.0
White Correlated Daylight Temperature = 6538K, ΔE 2K to locus =  0.5
White Visual Color Temperature = 6357K, ΔE 2K to locus =  4.8
White Visual Daylight Temperature = 6522K, ΔE 2K to locus =  0.4

 

 

I'd love to read what an A panel can do :) 

 

BTW, I really crave a not too pricey desk mount arm that would support 200x200 VESA....any idea?


Edited by leeperry - 10/23/13 at 7:22am
post #275 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

The User menus are the same in most Samsung TVs nowadays, just the Smart features and some more advanced settings are missing from the F5000.
Alternativelly clicking "Contact Samsung" in Support menu will display the full description of the firmware, in my TV it displays T-MST13DEUC - 1008.0.


Only "Contact Samsung" and the arrow down(turns to page 2) does indeed reveal the firmware version. 

It's T-M13FMASC-1006.0

post #276 of 782
Nice contrast value.
I do have an A panel but honestly can't say for sure what would be the difference.
Most of what I've read in this forum suggests that Samsung panels are generally best but I read contradictory assessments in some of the latest digitalversus reviews for example where Sharps latest generation panels seem to be prefered for their higher contrast, others say AUO are the best...

Could you say what picture preset did you calibrate?

No idea about a desk mount arm sorry.

EDIT: leeperry I know this isn't really productive but could you tell us your calibration settings?
Interesting how the blue levels on the lowest luminance raise so much, it's something that happens in my TV to when I manage to have a very reasonable looking picture after eyeball calibration lol. The darkest things acquire a blue tint. It's the only thing that still bothers me and I couldn't get rid of it yet... at least until I try the 10 pt controls in SM.
Edited by kkl10 - 10/23/13 at 8:08am
post #277 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aadil View Post


Only "Contact Samsung" and the arrow down(turns to page 2) does indeed reveal the firmware version. 
It's T-M13FMASC-1006.0

OK, Thanks for the info.
post #278 of 782
As of this post, please disregard yesterday's brightness, contrast, and RGB Gain settings. I always thought that it is correct for everything to be visible on every screen featured on the THX Optimizer. According to its instructions, that's not necessarily the case. The main goal for the Brightness Setup is for the THX logo to be bearly visible. The only reason the ten squares are there is so you know whether your TV is capable of showing black and below black. The Monitor Performance test has a few purposes. One of them is to check the tint consistancy ten squares across the gray scale. Here are my new results.

In Dynamic mode, set Contrast to 90 and Brightness to 43. In Standard mode, set Contrast to 95, Brightness to 37, White Balance RGB Offsets to 25, and White Balance RGB Gains to 25. In Movie mode, set Contrast to 100, Brightness to 37, White Balance RGB Offsets to 25, and White Balance RGB Gains to 45. For the rest of my settings, see my complete template I posted on either 10/19/13 or 10/20/13. I still prefer Movie mode because the only time the backlight dims is when the screen is fully black.
Edited by Big C - 10/23/13 at 2:30pm
post #279 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

....
jprc have you found a setting in Service Menu that controls or has an influence in auto dimming behaviour and could you tell it's current value? (Surprised nobody asked this to you yet)
When your TV displays a completely black screen it doesn't dimm at all? (My TV always dimms in such situation even with all ECO and Motion Lightning settings disabled)
If TVs have different auto dimming behaviour, I'd like to know what exactly causes that difference and I can't think of anything else besides firmware or some setting in Service Menu as the possible causes...
....
.

Well, unfortunately I can't be of much help at the moment. I currently have my TV set to Korea, which eliminates viewing most settings in the service menu. So, between that and whatever unknown defaults setting to Korea makes and the fact that I have a different model and firmware than you (F5500 running 1113), there is no telling where the differences are. But if I switch back to US, which I don't want to do right now for the reasons that I changed in the first place, I will take a look for you then.
post #280 of 782

I got my UE32F5000 a week ago for use mainly as a PC monitor. I immediately noticed a purple-blue shadow trailing some objects, kinda like severe inverse ghosting. This was primarily visible and distracting in games, but also in movies too. It was not visible in regular desktop use. I've recorded the issue and I believe it's visible in the below videos, despite the mediocre quality of my phone's camera.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/znwwun4k9wlwun8/deusex.mp4

https://www.dropbox.com/s/klew0vkpyteun4y/2013-10-17%2000.42.47.mp4

 

 

The TV also had some clouding in the bottom right corner so I returned it and got a replacement. Before I did that I checked the service menu and it had an H6 panel, I believe that's Samsung's?

 

The replacement I got has the exact same issue and the same H6 panel. I've checked on my UE42F5000 with an R6 (AUO?) panel I also got a while back and it definitely doesn't have this issue. What's more disconcerting, my buddy with the exact same 32" model with H6 panel, who got it a little earlier than me, doesn't have this issue.

 

Well, at least the uniformity is good on the current one.


Edited by Slayer305 - 10/29/13 at 2:36am
post #281 of 782
^^ No, "H" denotes a Sharp panel.
Sharp panels are the one's with the purple ghosting issue it seems.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406151/the-official-2012-samsung-eh4000-eh5000-eh5300-owners-thread/240#post_22332784

Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post

Well, unfortunately I can't be of much help at the moment. I currently have my TV set to Korea, which eliminates viewing most settings in the service menu. So, between that and whatever unknown defaults setting to Korea makes and the fact that I have a different model and firmware than you (F5500 running 1113), there is no telling where the differences are. But if I switch back to US, which I don't want to do right now for the reasons that I changed in the first place, I will take a look for you then.


Sure, no prob.
post #282 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

As of this post, please disregard yesterday's brightness, contrast, and RGB Gain settings. I always thought that it is correct for everything to be visible on every screen featured on the THX Optimizer. According to its instructions, that's not necessarily the case. The main goal for the Brightness Setup is for the THX logo to be bearly visible. The only reason the ten squares are there is so you know whether your TV is capable of showing black and below black. The Monitor Performance test has a few purposes. One of them is to check the tint consistancy ten squares across the gray scale. Here are my new results.

In Dynamic mode, set Contrast to 90 and Brightness to 43. In Standard mode, set Contrast to 95, Brightness to 37, White Balance RGB Offsets to 25, and White Balance RGB Gains to 25. In Movie mode, set Contrast to 100, Brightness to 37, White Balance RGB Offsets to 25, and White Balance RGB Gains to 45. For the rest of my settings, see my complete template I posted on either 10/19/13 or 10/20/13. I still prefer Movie mode because the only time the backlight dims is when the screen is fully black.
OK. Following these directions the way I understood them led to trouble viewing darker scenes. So I first raised the Brightness control until I could see the drop shadow. Then I lowered the Brightness just to the point the drop shadow blended in with the rest of the black background. Now, darker scenes look clearer. Here are the numbers.

In Dynamic mode, I set Contrast to 90 and Brightness to 51. In Standard mode, I set Contrast to 92, Brightness to 45, White Balance RGB Offsets to 25, and White Balance RGB Gains to 25. In Movie mode, I set Contrast to 100, Brightness to 45, White Balance RGB Offsets to 25, and White Balance RGB Gains to 40.
post #283 of 782

So today I finally sat down to get to figuring out all about my f5000. Ive been reading the manual on the train to work and have been greatfull for all the advice on this thread too.

I have done 3 things today and now my Samsung is Kapoot! :(

Its under guarantee and Im waiting now on an email acknowledging my Return and Replacement request, fingers crossed its as simple as John Lewis say.

As I saw it stated earlier on this thread the whole 4:4:4 thing is not that important and I have decided not to tinker in that way.

 

The first thing I did today way reformat a USB 64gb to NTFS, I put this in the Samsung and it worked perfectly.

 

The next thing I did was connect my OLD PVR, a Topfield 5800, it has no HDMI so I was using NEW gold plated scart cable to connect to my Samsung. The PVR files are recorded as TS. The EXT was edited on my Samsung to PVR STB.

 

The final thing was something I have been doing since the day I got it and that is using my Xbox connected, by hdmi2/dvi socket and edited to PC mode in TV.

 

When watching the usb and changing source to xbox the usb would reset to start when ever I went back to it. Though today I did find that when switching back and forth between a file I was watching on the PVR, connected by scart, and going into PC/hdmi2 to view the xbox the file on the PVR kept playing.

 

I was watching the PVR file for about 30 minutes changing source to see the Xbox every 5 to 10 minutes or so, to see how my game was progressing and then, with the PVR file in pause, I went into the xbox and made some adjustments to the game play (ie not the actual xbox or tv settings just instructions for my football manager! lol ) the TV went black and the music from the xbox game was playing for about 5 seconds after this and then silence :(

 

The xbox continued running as did the PVR. I have disconnected everything, the USB, the xbox and the PVR all of which I have checked out and are working fine, but my Samsung just shows the Red light flashing then staying on / off. I cant even tell you what the red light means, ie does it flash when coming on, or when going off? Ive never noticed it before, now its the only responce Im getting from my £250 tv :(

 

Anyone know whats happened?

post #284 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Creand View Post

Anyone know whats happened?

No idea...
By red light you mean the one visible on the lower right corner under the TV bezel?
And it keeps flashing on and off all the time?

I think that's the infrared receiver, which receives the commands from the remote control.
I've noticed that when my TV is in stand by this red light is always ON but when I press some button on the remote control it turns off for a moment them lightens up again...
If I press Power On, the light turns off and keeps that way while the TV is working...
You might want to see if there isn't any other infrared device working in the room where your TV is... in case that's the issue.

Also check your power outlet to see if it's working fine, try powering your TV from another outlet and see if the issue remains...
post #285 of 782
I would like to comment on the pros and cons of the F5000's three picture modes.

Dynamic mode behaves most like a CRT. The colors are richer than in Standard and Movie modes. The distinction between the ten squares from black to gray to white on the Monitor Performance screen of the THX Optimizer is not as distinct as in Standard and Movie modes, but they are as distinct as when viewed on a CRT. Dynamic mode uses less autodimming than Standard mode, but more than in Movie mode. The Advanced Picture submenu is unavailable. Warm1 and Warm2 are not available under Color Temperature in the Picture submenu.

In Standard mode, the colors aren't as rich as in Dynamic mode, but richer than in Movie mode. The distinction between the ten squares from black to gray to white on the Monitor Performance screen of the THX Optimizer are more distinct than viewed on a CRT or in Dynamic mode, and as distinct as in Movie mode. Standard mode uses the most autodimming. All of the settings are available. I haven't spent too much time with plasmas, but I guess Standard mode would be the closest thing, except its maximum luminance is higher than that of a plasma.

In Movie mode, colors are the least rich. The distinction between the ten squares from black to gray to white on the Monitor Performance screen of the THX Optimizer are more distinct than viewed on a CRT or in Dynamic mode and as distinct as in Standard mode. Movie mode uses the least autodimming. The only setting which can't be accessed is Motion Lighting in the Advanced Picture submenu.

As far as which one is my favorite: I like the CRT behavior of Dynamic mode. I like the backlight consistancy of Movie mode. From what I remember about plasmas, I lik the compromise between color richness and black to gray to white distinction in Standard mode.

After reading this, do you still prefer Movie mode? If so, looking at the settings I posted on either 10/19/13 or 10/20/13, do you think I could obtain as much color richness as in Dynamic mode by tweeking the color saturation? The THX Optimizer on the Starwars Episode IV DVD doesn't have any paterns on it for gamma testing or individual colors throughout the gray scale. If you are now having second thoughts about movie mode and are understanding it from my perspective, please keep us posted on your progress. If you actually decide on another mode other than Movie mode, I would like to know your reasons.
post #286 of 782

ty KK, have tried a few things now and its defiantely dead :(

 

The red light thing is basically on when I plug in and then when I press "on", on the remote it just flashes 6 times and then goes out. I can then switch off with remote and the red light stays lit, as it does for a moment or two after Ive unplugged the TV.

 

So you dont think its anything to do with switching sources too much? It was only 3 times in 40 minutes, but Ive noticed there is no direct button to switch between current and previous source, so you have to open Source and then select the one you want. Im wondering if this has been done deliberate, but Ive been thorough the manual and theres nothing there about any sort of risks. I had a quick hunt on Google and couldnt find anything and Ive spoken to some Xbox gamers who dont think its related to source and , like you, thought the USB should of returned to where I stopped it, before changing source rather than reset to the start.

 

Eitherway John Lewis have promised to deliver a new one tomorrow (!) and collect the old one on Monday (?). Think I will just keep my Toppy PVR well away from it and save up for the Humax which has HDMI anyway. :)

Thanks again :)

post #287 of 782
Switching sources can't kill a TV, so I don't think that's the problem but it could be related...
There was one time when I was extensivelly switching between PC mode and non PC mode, several times per minute, I was pressing buttons prety fast and all off the sudden the TV shuts off... seconds later, I was able to power it on normally again but had no idea what happened... I thought that since I was pressing buttons pretty fast the TV might had become "confused" and shut itself off... or maybe I unintentionally pressed some button or combination of buttons that put the TV into a certain mode, I don't know. But not sure if this relates to your case...

Have you tried to enter Service Menu and do a factory reset?

In any case I hope things work well for you in the end.
post #288 of 782
By the way, doesn't your TV have a button on it's back?
Mine has and the manual specifies what it's functions are, I think it has also a reset function but I don't remember very well.
This button can be used to power on the TV as well.
post #289 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkl10 View Post

By the way, doesn't your TV have a button on it's back?
Mine has and the manual specifies what it's functions are, I think it has also a reset function but I don't remember very well.
This button can be used to power on the TV as well.

 

 

Your a good man kk ( I dont know why I have assumed your a bloke, probably says more about me than anything lol) your help is much appreciated as always, in this regard Ive decided to just leave it alone, when I get the new one I will just use it for the Xbox and the odd Movie, if I dont get the Humax PVR, I will get the Samsung Smart Blueray which Im told can play the usb movies the way I was hoping the tv would anyway.

Thanks again :)

post #290 of 782
I plan to buy the UE32F5000.
this TV seems good

however, i'm back from a store where i saw it. dunno if "clear motion" was enabled or not but the travellings, movements seemed not very smooth.

I'm wrong, right ?!
post #291 of 782
@Rod Creand

Did you try pressing the Source button? If you were having a problem with one of your external devices and it got stuck on that source, the screen could stay blank. For instance if you have the PC connected and are on that source and turn off the PC but don't change source, it would go blank. You could think your TV was broken until you change source.

And no, switching sources multiple times will not damage your TV. That was unrelated coincidence.

Your remote control also could have gotten stuck - check all the buttons and replace the batteries. Or if you have another remote control that you've programmed for it, same thing.
Edited by jprc - 10/24/13 at 12:56pm
post #292 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by exeral View Post

I plan to buy the UE32F5000.
this TV seems good

however, i'm back from a store where i saw it. dunno if "clear motion" was enabled or not but the travellings, movements seemed not very smooth.

I'm wrong, right ?!

 

 

Im not too sure about the technical stuff mate, so I hope you dont mind me butting in, but if your in the UK take a look at JohnLewis, they are £10 more than Amazon but you get a 5 year guarantee for free with it ;)

post #293 of 782
i'm in France
post #294 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by jprc View Post

@Rod Creand

Did you try pressing the Source button? If you were having a problem with one of your external devices and it got stuck on that source, the screen could stay blank. For instance if you have the PC connected and are on that source and turn off the PC but don't change source, it would go blank. You could think your TV was broken until you change source.

And no, switching sources multiple times will not damage your TV. That was unrelated coincidence.

Your remote control also could have gotten stuck - check all the buttons and replace the batteries. Or if you have another remote control that you've programmed for it, same thing.

 

 

Thanks for the help Jprc, but Ive boxed it up now, lol.

I obviously didnt explain things too well, sorry. But basically I was in Xbox on the HDMI2 connection and pressed source to go select EXT because my PVR was connected through Scart. Maybe about 10 minutes before I had edited both to their "proper" names ie HDMI2 to PC and EXT to PVRSTB both pictures looking massively duller, kind of greyer than before changing the names. But I went from PVR to Xbox and when I selected source to go back to PVR it just went black on the screen and then the music from the xbox match stopped a few seconds later. The only thing different from te previous switches was that I had paused the PVR. But since it went black I cant get anything to appear on the screen, the Samsung logo or any menus Source, Tools etc. Ive disconnected everything and left it unplugged for a half hour too but nothing is happening except the red light thingy.

 

Its good to know that switching sources shouldnt be a problem, but Im still going to keep my PVR away from the new TV when it comes, the picture was terrible and the option to change screen sizes were more limited, probably because it was Scart, but its not worth it for me, I mainly got it for Xbox and movies.

 

I was going to post this today anyway, so if its alright I would just like to ask about the USB thingy. I formatted the 64gb stick to NTFS and in the instructions on Sandisks website it highlights the fact that the USB should never be taken out without going down to the bottom right and clicking on the icon, then waitng to be told you can safely remove the USB. With this in mind I was wondering what the protocol was for putting the USB in and taking it out of the TV, should it always be off before you do these things?

 

Thanks for all the help too,  I was quite taken aback at how delicate these flat screen TVs look like when I went into a store and all these new connections and variable screen settings always made me feel it was something a bit too technical for me and I was bound to do someting stupid with it, I grudgingly replaced my 10 year old CRT and look whats happened just 13 days on, lol.

 Im not so much a techno phobe, as much as I have always felt technology doesnt like me :)

post #295 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

I would like to comment on the pros and cons of the F5000's three picture modes.

Dynamic mode behaves most like a CRT. The colors are richer than in Standard and Movie modes. The distinction between the ten squares from black to gray to white on the Monitor Performance screen of the THX Optimizer is not as distinct as in Standard and Movie modes, but they are as distinct as when viewed on a CRT. Dynamic mode uses less autodimming than Standard mode, but more than in Movie mode. The Advanced Picture submenu is unavailable. Warm1 and Warm2 are not available under Color Temperature in the Picture submenu.

In Standard mode, the colors aren't as rich as in Dynamic mode, but richer than in Movie mode. The distinction between the ten squares from black to gray to white on the Monitor Performance screen of the THX Optimizer are more distinct than viewed on a CRT or in Dynamic mode, and as distinct as in Movie mode. Standard mode uses the most autodimming. All of the settings are available. I haven't spent too much time with plasmas, but I guess Standard mode would be the closest thing, except its maximum luminance is higher than that of a plasma.

In Movie mode, colors are the least rich. The distinction between the ten squares from black to gray to white on the Monitor Performance screen of the THX Optimizer are more distinct than viewed on a CRT or in Dynamic mode and as distinct as in Standard mode. Movie mode uses the least autodimming. The only setting which can't be accessed is Motion Lighting in the Advanced Picture submenu.

As far as which one is my favorite: I like the CRT behavior of Dynamic mode. I like the backlight consistancy of Movie mode. From what I remember about plasmas, I lik the compromise between color richness and black to gray to white distinction in Standard mode.

After reading this, do you still prefer Movie mode? If so, looking at the settings I posted on either 10/19/13 or 10/20/13, do you think I could obtain as much color richness as in Dynamic mode by tweeking the color saturation? The THX Optimizer on the Starwars Episode IV DVD doesn't have any paterns on it for gamma testing or individual colors throughout the gray scale. If you are now having second thoughts about movie mode and are understanding it from my perspective, please keep us posted on your progress. If you actually decide on another mode other than Movie mode, I would like to know your reasons.


I decided to post my settings for the Samsung UN##F5000 series for the three picture modes so that you don't have to go back to previous posts. I have Game Mode and all Eco options set to Off for all three picture modes.



Option - Dynamic - Standard - Movie



Backlight - 20 - 20 - 20

Contrast - 90 - 92 - 100

Brightness - 51 - 45 - 45

Sharpness - 50 - 50 - 50

Color - 50 - 50 - 50

Tint (G/R) - G50R50 - G50R50 - G50R50

Dynamic Contrast - NA*1 - Off - Off

Black Tone - NA*1 - Off - Off

Flesh Tone - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Color Space - NA*1 - Auto - Auto

R Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

R Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 40

G Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 40

B Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 40

Gamma - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Motion Lighting - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Temperature - Standard - Standard - Standard

Size - Acc. to Input Resolution - Acc. to Input Resolution - Acc. to Input Resolution

Digital Clean View - Off - Off - Off

MPEG Noise Filter - Off - Off - Off

HDMI Black Level - NA*2 - NA*2 - NA*2

Film Mode - Off - Off - Off

LED Motion - Off - Off - Off

(*1)The Advanced Settings are not available in Dynamic mode.

(*2)When inputting unprocessed YCbCr4:2:2 HDTV, Blu-ray, and DVD sources, HDMI black level is not available.
post #296 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

After reading this, do you still prefer Movie mode? If so, looking at the settings I posted on either 10/19/13 or 10/20/13, do you think I could obtain as much color richness as in Dynamic mode by tweeking the color saturation? The THX Optimizer on the Starwars Episode IV DVD doesn't have any paterns on it for gamma testing or individual colors throughout the gray scale. If you are now having second thoughts about movie mode and are understanding it from my perspective, please keep us posted on your progress. If you actually decide on another mode other than Movie mode, I would like to know your reasons.

 

I am watching Breaking Bad Bluray. My favourite mode is Dynamic, with it's bright colours. But sometimes the 'red' can be quite overwhelming.

Like a sweaty forehead, a pale complexion person turning 'red' - the 'mexico sun' shade they have in breaking bad, and so forth.

For the time being, I have tuned Dynamic to,

 

Backlight 20

Contrast 85

Bright 45

Sharp 25

Colour 50

Tint 50/50

Colour Tone Cool

Digital Clean View/MPEG Noise both off

HDMI Black Level Low

LED Clear Motion Off

 

It's by no means perfect but only a step towards fine tuning it according to my(develping?) taste.

post #297 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Creand View Post


Thanks for the help Jprc, but Ive boxed it up now, lol.
I obviously didnt explain things too well, sorry. But basically I was in Xbox on the HDMI2 connection and pressed source to go select EXT because my PVR was connected through Scart. Maybe about 10 minutes before I had edited both to their "proper" names ie HDMI2 to PC and EXT to PVRSTB both pictures looking massively duller, kind of greyer than before changing the names. But I went from PVR to Xbox and when I selected source to go back to PVR it just went black on the screen and then the music from the xbox match stopped a few seconds later. The only thing different from te previous switches was that I had paused the PVR. But since it went black I cant get anything to appear on the screen, the Samsung logo or any menus Source, Tools etc. Ive disconnected everything and left it unplugged for a half hour too but nothing is happening except the red light thingy.

Its good to know that switching sources shouldnt be a problem, but Im still going to keep my PVR away from the new TV when it comes, the picture was terrible and the option to change screen sizes were more limited, probably because it was Scart, but its not worth it for me, I mainly got it for Xbox and movies.

I was going to post this today anyway, so if its alright I would just like to ask about the USB thingy. I formatted the 64gb stick to NTFS and in the instructions on Sandisks website it highlights the fact that the USB should never be taken out without going down to the bottom right and clicking on the icon, then waitng to be told you can safely remove the USB. With this in mind I was wondering what the protocol was for putting the USB in and taking it out of the TV, should it always be off before you do these things?

Thanks for all the help too,  I was quite taken aback at how delicate these flat screen TVs look like when I went into a store and all these new connections and variable screen settings always made me feel it was something a bit too technical for me and I was bound to do someting stupid with it, I grudgingly replaced my 10 year old CRT and look whats happened just 13 days on, lol.
 Im not so much a techno phobe, as much as I have always felt technology doesnt like me smile.gif

For the USB, plugging it in can be done at any time. For removing, if you want to be certain it is no longer in use there is an option to remove it just like on the computer. Press Source and then highlight the USB source. While highlighted, press the Tools button and you will see Remove USB option.

If you experience any power on problems in the future, in addition to the things you tried, you should always eliminate the possibility of the remote jamming it. To do this you just remove batteries from all remotes that could be communicating with it and use the physical buttons on the back of the TV in the lower right corner (it will be the left corner if you are facing the back of the TV).

You could also see if the service menu codes, which are input when the TV is off anyway, turns the TV on. That requires the remote and is accessed by MUTE-1-8-2-POWER. Normally I would not suggest you go into the Service Menu but this would only be a last ditch effort if you tried everything and thought your TV was dead. Of course you have a good long warranty it seems so glad you have that to fall back on.
post #298 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Creand View Post
 

I formatted the 64gb stick to NTFS and in the instructions on Sandisks website it highlights the fact that the USB should never be taken out without going down to the bottom right and clicking on the icon, then waitng to be told you can safely remove the USB. With this in mind I was wondering what the protocol was for putting the USB in and taking it out of the TV, should it always be off before you do these things?

 

The idea behind removing(ejecting) the usb properly that way is to eliminate a situation where data is being written to the usb drive and the user pulls it out of the slot, thereby damaging the data or filesystem or even the hardware(in some rare cases). Always eject first and then take it out.

Same thing goes for the tv. Make sure usb source isn't selected and any 'blinking'(if available on the usb drive itself) isn't going on before removing it.

I think being in a different 'source' other than USB like TV/HDMI makes it ideal to remove the usb.

Inserting has no requirements.

 

Not totally sure if the really smart tvs have something built in to manage usb plugins/outs, since I don't own any of the higher up/expensive series of samsung tvs.

 

EDIT:

My 5000 does not have 'Remove USB option' - so I guess I'm stuck with doing it the old fashioned way.


Edited by Aadil - 10/24/13 at 1:54pm
post #299 of 782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aadil View Post

The idea behind removing(ejecting) the usb properly that way is to eliminate a situation where data is being written to the usb drive and the user pulls it out of the slot, thereby damaging the data or filesystem or even the hardware(in some rare cases). Always eject first and then take it out.
Same thing goes for the tv. Make sure usb source isn't selected and any 'blinking'(if available on the usb drive itself) isn't going on before removing it.
I think being in a different 'source' other than USB like TV/HDMI makes it ideal to remove the usb.
Inserting has no requirements.

Not totally sure if the really smart tvs have something built in to manage usb plugins/outs, since I don't own any of the higher up/expensive series of samsung tvs.

Aadil, can you check if the 5000 has this like the 5500:
Press Source and then highlight the USB source. While highlighted (don't press enter, just highlight it) press the Tools button and you will see Remove USB option.
post #300 of 782

jprc, in the 5000 menu, source does not bring up USB.

It's been crammed into the 'Application' section with 'Media Play USB' the option that takes you into your plugged in flash drive.

 

The software on the 5000 series is very basic.

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