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2013 LG LN5300 LED HDTV Review - Page 8

post #211 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Punkyjean View Post

My 32" Sony Bravia bit the dust and I purchased the LG 39LN5300 through Dell, have had it for 4 days. It has been a huge disappointment from the beginning. The picture quality is nothing like the Sony and anytime there is movement in the picture there's a lag in clarifying the picture. I have applied some recommended calibrations from websites, they improve the picture only when the picture is at a reduced size. I didn't buy a 39" tv to watch programming at 29". Many comments here say this tv is best used for pc applications, have I purchased the wrong product just to watch tv? Thanks for any input.

Do you have either of the Noise Reduction options enabled? Also, what's your sharpness set to?
post #212 of 417
I asked LG essentially the same question not long ago. The answer (if I may break the rule by "distributing") their response was:
Quote:
It all depend on the connection, if unit is connected to optical cable it would output 5.1, in any case the Home Theater or other device connected to should modulate the signal and adjust to other settings.

Gaspar C.
E-mail Administrator
Customer Interactive Center
LGEAI
Since there is only an optical cable connection for audio-out, I'm not sure why Gaspar made the response conditional. But it seems to me the answer is 5.1 output only.
post #213 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clad In Shadows View Post

Thanks a bunch, Citric_Acid. The firmware update took care of the problem.

Glad I could help. Enjoy watching "Ghost Shark" on syfy. wink.gif
post #214 of 417
these are really cheap right now. lots of places. just bought 2 39 inch. $314 for 39 inch at Walmart, BB, and amazon.
post #215 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhigh8 View Post

these are really cheap right now. lots of places. just bought 2 39 inch. $314 for 39 inch at Walmart, BB, and amazon.

I paid $299 at my local BestBuy or around $330 with tax. All the BestBuys around me only carry the "IPS" version of this model. That's what I have but I wanted to compare it to the VA version just to see if the off-angle viewing would be worth it for the deeper blacks.

One thing I'm trying to do is get the fonts to a point where I'm happy. It'll take a lot of tweaking for now. Since I'm sitting three feet away because I'm using it as PC monitor, my eyes feel fatigued. I know . . . what did I expect. Anyway, no dead pixels and the colors look great.

Update: I changed the system font from Segoe to Tahoma in the registry. I disabled "ClearType" but it didn't look great so I enabled it again. Strangely, the one thing that helped improve font smoothing was changing my resolution from 1920 x 1080 to 1600 x 900. Go figure. I'm still working out some kinks but Windows is not the best OS for font rendering. OSX does a better job and I assume Linux does as well.

If anyone wants to post their font tweaks here or recommend what worked for them, have at it. It may help us.
Edited by Citric_Acid - 9/8/13 at 11:07am
post #216 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Citric_Acid View Post

I paid $299 at my local BestBuy or around $330 with tax. All the BestBuys around me only carry the "IPS" version of this model. That's what I have but I wanted to compare it to the VA version just to see if the off-angle viewing would be worth it for the deeper blacks.

One thing I'm trying to do is get the fonts to a point where I'm happy. It'll take a lot of tweaking for now. Since I'm sitting three feet away because I'm using it as PC monitor, my eyes feel fatigued. I know . . . what did I expect. Anyway, no dead pixels and the colors look great.

Update: I changed the system font from Segoe to Tahoma in the registry. I disabled "ClearType" but it didn't look great so I enabled it again. Strangely, the one thing that helped improve font smoothing was changing my resolution from 1920 x 1080 to 1600 x 900. Go figure. I'm still working out some kinks but Windows is not the best OS for font rendering. OSX does a better job and I assume Linux does as well.

If anyone wants to post their font tweaks here or recommend what worked for them, have at it. It may help us.
You need to put your TV at native resolution (1920 x1080) and rename your HDMI input label to PC. This disables chroma subsampling and gives full resolution to every pixel on your TV. With 1600x900, the TV knows its a PC-common resolution and automatically disables chroma subsampling, making the picture more clear. But not as clear as 1080p.
post #217 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

You need to put your TV at native resolution (1920 x1080) and rename your HDMI input label to PC. This disables chroma subsampling and gives full resolution to every pixel on your TV. With 1600x900, the TV knows its a PC-common resolution and automatically disables chroma subsampling, making the picture more clear. But not as clear as 1080p.

I did that but the result wasn't to my liking. Also, the fonts were a bit too small for my eyes, even at a three foot distance. I went back to leaving it as "Just Scan" and keeping the 1600 x 900 resolution. 1080p makes the system fonts appear thin and not too attractive. The other problem is Windows way of rendering fonts. I did try MacType but it made certain things better and others worse.

I'm running a CSS script for Firefox and that has slightly improved the default font. With the calibration settings posted here, this is probably the best it's going to get. I'll still continue to tweak and will post my findings if I find anything useful to contribute.
post #218 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Citric_Acid View Post

I did that but the result wasn't to my liking. Also, the fonts were a bit too small for my eyes, even at a three foot distance. I went back to leaving it as "Just Scan" and keeping the 1600 x 900 resolution. 1080p makes the system fonts appear thin and not too attractive. The other problem is Windows way of rendering fonts. I did try MacType but it made certain things better and others worse.

I'm running a CSS script for Firefox and that has slightly improved the default font. With the calibration settings posted here, this is probably the best it's going to get. I'll still continue to tweak and will post my findings if I find anything useful to contribute.

DPI enlargement? You can only go so far with font smoothing, as there will still be square pixels making up your text. Keep it at native resolution, change your DPI value, and use the ClearType tuner if you are using Windows 7/8, otherwise you can download it if you are using an earlier Windows version. The clearType tuner provides a way to increase the boldness of the text for bigger displays.

Oh, and 1600x900 is still being upscaled to 1080p by your graphics card. The TV doesn't have that as a known resolution in its EDID. So if anything looks better with that, its happening from your graphics card.
post #219 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

DPI enlargement? You can only go so far with font smoothing, as there will still be square pixels making up your text. Keep it at native resolution, change your DPI value, and use the ClearType tuner if you are using Windows 7/8, otherwise you can download it if you are using an earlier Windows version. The clearType tuner provides a way to increase the boldness of the text for bigger displays.

Oh, and 1600x900 is still being upscaled to 1080p by your graphics card. The TV doesn't have that as a known resolution in its EDID. So if anything looks better with that, its happening from your graphics card.

I tried DPI at 1080 before but it still looked bad. Also, I'm not sitting five feet away from the TV. I'm only three feet away, so I assume that has something to do with my perception of how fonts are rendered on the screen. ClearType is on but there's only a marginal improvement. I'm using Tahoma instead of Segoe (default system font in Win 7).

I hear you about the 1600 x 900 not being supported by the EDID, but for some reason, it works much better for me. How can a lower resolution do a better job than a higher one is beyond me. Honestly, I don't want give the impression that the font situation is really bad because it's not. I just think it could be better. Maybe when I upgrade to Windows 8 down the road, something magical will happen. Who knows.

Update: I installed the system font used in OSX called "Lucida Grande". I feel it's made an improvement overall.
Edited by Citric_Acid - 9/10/13 at 5:45pm
post #220 of 417
Hey guys, just noticed this on my 42LN5300 the other day.



When I first looked at it I thought it was a dead pixel but when I looked at it closer:


I don't know what that is, it doesn't look like a normal dead pixel to me. I could be wrong though. What do you think this is?
post #221 of 417
I returned this morning and purchased 2 more sets for Eyefinity. 22.gif
post #222 of 417
Give JScreenFix a try and see if helps correct your dead pixel problem. The app app guides you through the steps required to locate and repair stuck pixels using the JScreenFix pixel fixing algorithm.

http://www.jscreenfix.com/basic.php

If that doesn't help, you can always do the following:

" *Turn off your monitor.
*Get yourself a damp cloth, so that you won’t scratch the screen.
*Apply pressure to the area where the stuck pixel is. Try not to put pressure anywhere else, as this may trigger the creation of more stuck pixels.
* While applying pressure, turn on your computer and screen.
* Remove pressure and the stuck pixel should be gone.

This works because in a stuck pixel liquid in a subpixel has not spread equally. In combination with the backlight of your screen, this liquid is used to allow different amounts of light to pass through, which creates the different colors."
post #223 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Citric_Acid View Post

I tried DPI at 1080 before but it still looked bad. Also, I'm not sitting five feet away from the TV. I'm only three feet away, so I assume that has something to do with my perception of how fonts are rendered on the screen. ClearType is on but there's only a marginal improvement. I'm using Tahoma instead of Segoe (default system font in Win 7).

I hear you about the 1600 x 900 not being supported by the EDID, but for some reason, it works much better for me. How can a lower resolution do a better job than a higher one is beyond me. Honestly, I don't want give the impression that the font situation is really bad because it's not. I just think it could be better. Maybe when I upgrade to Windows 8 down the road, something magical will happen. Who knows.

Update: I installed the system font used in OSX called "Lucida Grande". I feel it's made an improvement overall.

Well in reality, 1080p with DPI should overall, be better than using a lower resolution. Using a lower resolution is for things like easing the workload your graphics card has to do by rendering in all those pixels or matching a different native resolution for a different screen. When selecting DPI, you can use a custom DPI to make text a bit bigger, but not as big as 120 dpi or the higher radial button setting i don't remember. There should be a button under the preset values to show a window with a ruler and how big you want the font to come out as.

But hey, its your choice. Im just giving you suggestions since I thoroughly helped my grandfather out by showing him why keeping a native resolution and a bigger DPI was easier for his eyes.
post #224 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

Well in reality, 1080p with DPI should overall, be better than using a lower resolution. Using a lower resolution is for things like easing the workload your graphics card has to do by rendering in all those pixels or matching a different native resolution for a different screen. When selecting DPI, you can use a custom DPI to make text a bit bigger, but not as big as 120 dpi or the higher radial button setting i don't remember. There should be a button under the preset values to show a window with a ruler and how big you want the font to come out as.

But hey, its your choice. Im just giving you suggestions since I thoroughly helped my grandfather out by showing him why keeping a native resolution and a bigger DPI was easier for his eyes.

I did the "Custom" option for the DPI at 1080p and it still looked fuzzy.

Here's a screenshot of my desktop at the 1600 x 900 resolution. For some reason, the image even states a resolution of 1600 x 900 under its properties. Check out the fonts in the Start Menu and desktop. Maybe I have some OCD or something. Give me your opinion on what you see.


Note: Save pic to your desktop to see it properly at its full resolution. Thanks.


Edited by Citric_Acid - 9/12/13 at 3:44pm
post #225 of 417
Just purchased the LG 39LN5300 a few days ago after returning a Sceptre X409BV-FHD. It was a $40 difference (after rewards and CC cash back), but the picture quality and advanced options of the LG blew the cheaper Sceptre away. I've noticed 2 things with my specific 39LN5300: a single stuck red pixel and glow/bleeding on the outer edges. I can live with the stuck pixel, but was wondering if this glow/bleeding was normal.

Here's a picture with the input turned off and using Tralfamadore's latest calibration numbers:



My service code is: 39LN5300-UB.BUSJLWM

People are going by the 4th to last letter, mine being a J (BUSJLWM). I take it this is a VA panel instead of an IPS panel.

I'm currently using this connected via HDMI to a cable box and a Raspberry Pi (w/ PC Input name) for 1080P encoded MP4's, but plan to use it as a second monitor using using AirPlay and the new Mac OS X's wireless extended desktop feature.
Edited by luciusd - 9/12/13 at 5:05am
post #226 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by luciusd View Post

Just purchased the LG 39LN5300 a few days ago after returning a Sceptre X409BV-FHD. It was a $40 difference (after rewards and CC cash back), but the picture quality and advanced options of the LG blew the cheaper Sceptre away. I've noticed 2 things with my specific 39LN5300: a single stuck red pixel and glow/bleeding on the outer edges. I can live with the stuck pixel, but was wondering if this glow/bleeding was normal.

Here's a picture with the input turned off and using Tralfamadore's latest calibration numbers:



My service code is: 39LN5300-UB.BUSJLWM

People are going by the 4th to last letter, mine being a J (BUSJLWM). I take it this is a VA panel instead of an IPS panel.

I'm currently using this connected via HDMI to a cable box and a Raspberry Pi (w/ PC Input name) for 1080P encoded MP4's, but plan to use it as a second monitor using using AirPlay and the new Mac OS X's wireless extended desktop feature.

I'd exchange it. You shouldn't have to deal with those problems. Look for a box that's totally flat on the top without any dents.
post #227 of 417
Took your advice and exchanged it. No more dead pixel and much better backlight situation. In the same position as I took the picture with the first set, backlight bleed wasn't noticeable. If looking at the set from different angles, whiteness at corners increase. Seems to be more the nature of the panel than any defect.

I've got a few questions if anyone can answer it for me.

1. Any way to turn off the red stand-by light? LG's Q&A section of their site gives a suggestion, but the option isn't present on my set.

Their advice was:
Quote:
Press the HOME button on your remote control.
On the SETTINGS menu, locate the OPTION menu.
One of the features on this list is that of the STANDBY LIGHT.
Set this option to the OFF setting in order to deactivate the Red STANDBY indicator light.

2. Are all the other colors more accurate by sacrificing white? The Cinema pre-set and calibration numbers people have provided create a more yellow-tinted image. Doing a search on the forums, people insist this gives a truer image (what movie creators intended, more true to skin tone, etc). If the calibrations are "color accurate", then why do whites seem off? I switched from Cinema and Expert 1 to Game mode while watching NFL football the other night and the white jersey was actually white in Game mode. The other modes gave yellow-ish whites. Played some HD movies and where you'd expect white (white collared shirts, white hair, white pages in books) actually look white in Game mode, but yellow-ish in Cinema/Expert 1 calibrated.
post #228 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by luciusd View Post

I've got a few questions if anyone can answer it for me:

1. Any way to turn off the red stand-by light?

LG's manuals are always recycled from previous year's models. I had a 32LD450 and that had a standby light option in the menu, but my 32LN5300 does not.


2. Are all the other colors more accurate by sacrificing white? The Cinema pre-set and calibration numbers people have provided create a more yellow-tinted image. Doing a search on the forums, people insist this gives a truer image (what movie creators intended, more true to skin tone, etc). If the calibrations are "color accurate", then why do whites seem off? I switched from Cinema and Expert 1 to Game mode while watching NFL football the other night and the white jersey was actually white in Game mode. The other modes gave yellow-ish whites. Played some HD movies and where you'd expect white (white collared shirts, white hair, white pages in books) actually look white in Game mode, but yellow-ish in Cinema/Expert 1 calibrated.

If you want start towards true white and balanced color at the same time, you should always use the Expert 1/2 picture modes and start off by setting color temp to Warm1. Warm2 is too warm as it boosts red over all other main colors. Cool boosts Blue over all others and Normal boosts blue and green. Only Warm1 balances out Green, Red, and Blue.

If you want to go further (to remove color tint out of grays and fine-tune color saturation), you need to learn how to use the 10 or 20-point IRE system and the Color Management System (CMS) under the color temp. setting. It can be done by eye (with a good test image and set to OUTER pattern), but its most accurate with color software and a colorimeter.

Edited by MDA400 - 9/16/13 at 7:43am
post #229 of 417
How does this handle standby? Windows seems unable to trigger standby via HDMI through basic power settings. It just keeps saying "No Signal". I am hopeful its not burning up lots of juice doing so. Does it eventually go into standby on its own? Can you wake it up? Or do i need to do something to configure windows to order it into stand by?

I am not aware of any menu settings for DPMS or other power settings other than sleep timer which is a one time setting everytime.
post #230 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent Hipps View Post

How does this handle standby? Windows seems unable to trigger standby via HDMI through basic power settings. It just keeps saying "No Signal". I am hopeful its not burning up lots of juice doing so. Does it eventually go into standby on its own? Can you wake it up? Or do i need to do something to configure windows to order it into stand by?

I am not aware of any menu settings for DPMS or other power settings other than sleep timer which is a one time setting everytime.

Well, the LG TV is hardcoded to turn off after 10 minutes of link inactivity. If the display is a blackscreen, but doesn't turn off, then the Windows sleep state when running a program or streaming media is probably set to "away mode" instead of "allow PC to sleep" (advanced power options).

I was referring to the red standby light under the TV bezel that is on while your TV is turned off. The auto-turnoff function is dependant on the source device doing nothing at the time. Make sure in Windows the time till display turns off isn't set to "Never" as well.
post #231 of 417
Is there any way to have it enter a sleep state where it can be woken by the PC like a monitor would? Right now it's turning all the way off and has to be power'ed on by remote or the button on back after 10 minutes of the PC being in Sleep state; id prefer to be able to skip that step if possible.
post #232 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent Hipps View Post

Is there any way to have it enter a sleep state where it can be woken by the PC like a monitor would? Right now it's turning all the way off and has to be power'ed on by remote or the button on back after 10 minutes of the PC being in Sleep state; id prefer to be able to skip that step if possible.

Not possible with this LG TV. That's something monitors are specialized for (unfortunately) and maybe there are only a few extensive TV's that can do that like an expensive Samsung or LG TV (manufacturers that are big in the monitor displays as well).
post #233 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by matthewjfazio View Post

Just hooked up my 39" LG LN5300 to use as a PC monitor and it's a keeper. Every praise that's been mentioned in this thread is true.

$394.00 including shipping and tax from New Egg (Amazon had it for the same but there was a 2-3 week wait backorder even with Prime.) Microcenter carries it for $429 if you want it local.

Even though this is a 39" it actually takes up a little less desktop real estate-- the bezel is tiny compared to the Westinghouse. The screen has a nice punch to it no amount of adjusting could bring to my old screen, and if it doesn't have an IPS panel LG did a good job disguising the fact.

Connection is DVI to HDMI, and you label the input to "PC" mode (I did "Game" first and that didn't produce sharp text.)

I took it through some hardcore gaming like Candy Crush Saga, Farmville, and Words with Friends and there was no noticeable lag or other ripping problems.

IMO this is an excellent replacement-- it really is is the new Westy.

(PS. I know those games aren't hard core.)

Do you know the version code/type that you got? It seems like many get amazing 39" sets for this model, but a few consistently have issues, this leads me to believe that there are more than one types out there.
post #234 of 417
Tv is still amazing me at 60htz ,when I watch sports. It is very hard to detect motion blur. Quite happy with this set on all performance levels.
post #235 of 417
I have the 42" model of this tv and its great no lag,has the ips
post #236 of 417
I have the 42" ln5300 I am very impressed with this tv There is no noticeable lag it has the ips screen I play ps3 xbox360 and pc I am very impressed with this model,even my none hd tv channels look great and it has so many settings to adjust to make eacv game look great,the picture wizard 2 is amazing I have had this tv since april and have played alot of different games including gta5 I would absolutely recommend this tv to ne one
post #237 of 417

Hi,

 

Thanks for the review. This was useful.

 

I am planning to buy this model for using it as a regular TV and have a very specific query. Can you play videos if you connect a flash drive or an external drive via USB port? I read some reviews where this was highlighted as a missing feature. However, LG's customer care helpdesk states that the feature exists in this model. Since you have this TV, it will be a great help if you could check this.

 

Thanks,

Joe

post #238 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Hill View Post

Hi,

Thanks for the review. This was useful.

I am planning to buy this model for using it as a regular TV and have a very specific query. Can you play videos if you connect a flash drive or an external drive via USB port? I read some reviews where this was highlighted as a missing feature. However, LG's customer care helpdesk states that the feature exists in this model. Since you have this TV, it will be a great help if you could check this.

Thanks,
Joe

Unfortunately, it does not do this by default, Joe.

You have to get into the service menu of the TV and enable DiVX playback if you want it to play video as well.
post #239 of 417

I have a 42 inch version and have the VA panel. Do any of you guys think the IPS panel is superior to the VA? Is it worth the hassle to go back to and exchange to the IPS panel?

post #240 of 417
Somebody Knows about the LG's dead pixel guarantee policy? i realized tha my tv has one frown.gif , my one year guarantee not ends yet
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