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2013 LG LN5300 LED HDTV Review - Page 11

post #301 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

Good that you figured it out. I still wanna know what happens to native 1080p stuff. 

I got the 5700 and when I click on "INFO" show 1080i 60hz when on cable HDTV.confused now.
post #302 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


It will be the same settings because 1080p upscaled is any resolution lower than it that is applied to a 1080p window (which is 60hz on an Xbox 360). Xbox 360 and one do output full chroma so its best done this way.

So what will happen if the game outputs at 1080p? How will that look on my TV at 900p? 

post #303 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

So what will happen if the game outputs at 1080p? How will that look on my TV at 900p? 

If you know how the Xbox 360/One/All current consoles work, the upscaling chip will always provide a 1080p 60hz (if you set it to that on the console itself) image to the TV. But the original 720p/900p image is formatted into that 1080p "window".

In summary, upscaling does two things:

1. Has the ability to provide the native resolution to your TV (to decrease the most processing possible on the display's side)

2. Cleans up picture clarity by stretching the internal 720p/900p resolution over a fixed 1080p grid for your TV


It's a win-win situation for the source device to upscale the image.
post #304 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


If you know how the Xbox 360/One/All current consoles work, the upscaling chip will always provide a 1080p 60hz (if you set it to that on the console itself) image to the TV. But the original 720p/900p image is formatted into that 1080p "window".

In summary, upscaling does two things:

1. Has the ability to provide the native resolution to your TV (to decrease the most processing possible on the display's side)

2. Cleans up picture clarity by stretching the internal 720p/900p resolution over a fixed 1080p grid for your TV


It's a win-win situation for the source device to upscale the image.

Just found out that the X1 offers a auto calibration thing. 

post #305 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroJehuty View Post

Just found out that the X1 offers a auto calibration thing. 

It's still a manual process, but it does the basic Contrast, Brightness, Color, etc. settings for your TV if you tell the Xbox One what display and audio device it is connected to.

If you want precise picture quality, you still have to do those things like Black Level, PC input label, and Grayscale calibration (10/20-point IRE).
post #306 of 417

It looks like Tralfamadore posted 2 different settings (1st on Page 4, 2nd on Page 6,) However I see everyone linking a reference to his first one only.  Is that the one I should use or should I use the 2nd one he listed?  I should note I have no clue what any of these settings mean, I just trust you guys to know what looks best ;P

post #307 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by hi2ukindsir View Post

It looks like Tralfamadore posted 2 different settings (1st on Page 4, 2nd on Page 6,) However I see everyone linking a reference to his first one only.  Is that the one I should use or should I use the 2nd one he listed?  I should note I have no clue what any of these settings mean, I just trust you guys to know what looks best ;P

Just try both. wink.gif
post #308 of 417
I just picked up a 42" last night for $357, I just couldn't pass it up and didn't want it to be sold out after Black friday. Figured I better be safe than sorry, if I find a better deal between now and christmas I'll return it, if not I'll open her up!
But I see I don't have a "Y" so I'm going to see if I can exhange. I got it to use with my PS4 and it'll also be my primary TV.
post #309 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by P51-SN95 View Post

I just picked up a 42" last night for $357, I just couldn't pass it up and didn't want it to be sold out after Black friday. Figured I better be safe than sorry, if I find a better deal between now and christmas I'll return it, if not I'll open her up!
But I see I don't have a "Y" so I'm going to see if I can exhange. I got it to use with my PS4 and it'll also be my primary TV.

It's one of the best gaming TV's I've used so far with low input delay and has more than enough calibration features (because LG seems to be the one to base itself the best around ISFccc standards).
post #310 of 417
How do you turn off the RF on the 32" 5300? I have a LG 42" in the same room and the remote turns on-off on both.
post #311 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by trich View Post

How do you turn off the RF on the 32" 5300? I have a LG 42" in the same room and the remote turns on-off on both.

Unfortunately, you cannot do this on any TV unless you use a universal remote with a different TV code for the same manufacturer.

A Logitech harmony remote or any set-top box remote will be able to do this.
post #312 of 417
Thanks MDA400, that's what I did. The 32" is being use for a computer monitor [games], and the 42 is used for directv, both in a rec room. There was a big conflict..
FWIW, the 5300 makes a good computer monitor.
post #313 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by nojoka View Post

My 42LN5300-UB.BUSYLJR is S-IPS, 42LN5300-UB.BUSDLMR is something else (VA?).

I had checked the 42" 5300 model in Target and took a macro photo and saw the Chevron shaped IPS pixels a few days ago. It was $450 though and I saw it for $400 on Amazon and had some gift card money so I ordered it from there. Well it came today and there was a gray spot in the center that I noticed as soon as I turned it on. Like what suade showed above. Plus a macro shot of the pixels showed rectangular ones not the chevron arrows I saw on the same model at Target. Besides the gray dot the display definitely looked good enough to keep though and if it wouldn't have been for that I would have. Doing some research it seemed like a Y 4th from the end might be the IPS panel. Went to Target and had them get a box. If there wasn't a Y I wasn't going to bother paying $50 more, I would have just tried a replacement from Amazon. I did see the Y though so I bought it. Yep S-IPS! No dead or stuck pixels that I can see and no gray dot.

Both boxes. If you want to get an IPS one I guess you want the Y 4th from the end... 42LN5300-UB.BUSYLJR

Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

It's one of the best gaming TV's I've used so far with low input delay and has more than enough calibration features (because LG seems to be the one to base itself the best around ISFccc standards).

May I ask which you have? do you have the S-IPS panel or the other panel?

When I was out and about today searching for one with the "Y" (S-IPS) Screen I came across a few that had a "Q" instead of a "Y" or a "D" anyone know what the Q menas??
post #314 of 417
Hey all. I recently sent back my vizio 420i-ao to save a little money and got the 42LN5300. I have the Y model hence it's a IPS display. It was also manufactured November 2013. I want to love this TV but good lord playing games slightly moving left or right results in HORRIBLE MOTION Blur and ghosting. Playing Last of us on the Ps3 when I turn the camera on a certain character I see a huge blur with a double image of there head. Like a trail. Even browsing on Netflix the words blur put when scrolling through titles. And watching movies the screen awkwardly shifts brightness/color. I'm so frustrated I already took back one TV to Walmart I don't want to take this one back. I've tried PC setting input along with so many settings. I even tried updating firmware but my TV doesn't even register that a firmware update is in my USB device! Nothing pops up! I feel like I should have just stuck with the Vizio... Anyone if anyone can help I'd gladly appreciate it. Thank you. - Mikey
post #315 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by P51-SN95 View Post


May I ask which you have? do you have the S-IPS panel or the other panel?

When I was out and about today searching for one with the "Y" (S-IPS) Screen I came across a few that had a "Q" instead of a "Y" or a "D" anyone know what the Q menas??

I have the 32LN5300 (with IPS panel), but features across all 3 sizes should yield the same experience. I would say not to pay attention to the letter. If you can see one in a store before you buy, an MVA panel would cause the image to get washed out as you look at it to the side (IPS would lose a little brightness, but contrast and color would not change). Big TV's usually use this panel because its a cost compromise between TN and IPS panels.

Also, the difference between TN and MVA panel washout, is TN washes out and inverts color a little bit no matter how direct you are facing the screen. MVA only does it past about 120 degrees left to right or 70 degrees viewing above or below the screen.
post #316 of 417
Anyone with a good settings for gaming?
post #317 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushen View Post

Anyone with a good settings for gaming?

If it's HDMI, then use the "PC" input label on the HDMI port and use a progressive resolution (1080p, 720p, etc.). Keep Black Level on AUTO and disable the Dynamic Contrast and Edge Enhancer setting in the advanced menu.

If it's Component or Composite for older game console, Turn off all the enhancements in the advanced menu such as edge enhancer and dynamic contrast as well as in the picture options menu like noise reduction, MPEG noise reduction, eye care, etc. as there is not much you can do with the analog signal inputs (other than buying an Analog-to-Digital converter and have a 1080p picture for use with the HDMI port).
post #318 of 417

Do ALL IPS panels have the chevron pixels?

 

I picked up a 42LN5300-UB.AUSDLJR and i'm 99.9% sure it's IPS, but the pixels don't have the arrow shape. The magnifying glass i used was basically a little toy though, so I didn't get a close up look at all, so maybe I just couldn't see it. I read a few places that not all IPS panels have the distinguishable arrow shape, and I also noticed a few people in this thread mentioned that the 42" 5300s only come in IPS anyways.

 

I was curious, so I called LG and they said all new panels (this particular TV was made in October 2013) use IPS panels, but she couldn't help me with what the different letters meant. Are we sure that the 4th from the right specifies the panel type? I like the TV and even though I'm sure I have an IPS panel, my OCD makes me wonder what the "D" is, because a store I went to a few days ago had the "Y".

 

Edit: Nevermind, just did a little more research and found that LG's H-IPS panels don't have the chevron shape. Still, I'm wondering what the difference between the Y and the D was.


Edited by CH323 - 12/8/13 at 6:51am
post #319 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post


This is what I use (finally typed it all without my browser crashing like last time) cool.gif:

(For RGB sources. YCbCr source values are stated to the right)


Picture mode: Expert 1

Backlight: 56 (same with YCbCr [no "PC" input label] )

Contrast: 95 (same with YCbCr)

Brightness 53 (same with YCbCr)

H sharpness: 11 (10 with YCbCr)

V sharpness: 24 (17 with YCbCr)

Color: 53 (same with YCbCr)

Tint: G4 (same with YCbCr)


Picture Options:

Black Level: Auto (same with YCbCr)


Expert Control: (all same with YCbCr. Use "Copy White Point Values" for IRE)

Dynamic contrast: Off

Color Gamut: Wide

Edge enhancer: Off

Gamma: 2.2


Whitepoint:

Color Temp: Warm1

Method: 20-point IRE ( 2-point = High only - R-11 G-5 B18)

IRE 100: R10 G12 B20

IRE 95: R9 G11 B19

IRE 90: R8 G10 B18

IRE 85: R7 G9 B17

IRE 80: R6 G8 B16

IRE 75: R5 G7 B15

IRE 70: R4 G6 B14

IRE 65: R3 G5 B13

IRE 60: R2 G4 B12

IRE 55: R1 G3 B11

IRE 50: R0 G2 B10

IRE 45: R-1 G1 B9

IRE 40: R-2 G0 B8

IRE 35: R-3 G-1 B7

IRE 30: R-4 G-2 B6

IRE 25: R-5 G-3 B5

IRE 20: R-6 G-4 B4

IRE 15: R-7 G-5 B3

IRE 10: R-8 G-6 B2

IRE 5: R2 G 2 B10

IRE 0: R-50 G-25 0


Color Management System:

Red: Saturation -1 Tint -3 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Green: Saturation 1 Tint 2 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Blue: Saturation 2 Tint 18 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr, except Tint is 23)

Cyan: Saturation 5 Tint 2 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Magenta: Saturation 4 Tint -1 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)

Yellow: Saturation 10 Tint 1 Luminance 0 (same with YCbCr)



Gamma is spot on with these settings using this page (for me). I use a 32" LN5300 for reference.

What is this IRE stuff you have below i dont understand it.... I set method to 20 point IRE, Pattern outer, IRE 100 (assuming thats what you meant) then all the other numbers beneath it confuse the living heck out of me lol...all i see in my options is red/green/blue which is all set on zero... what do i do here in this part?

post #320 of 417
Anybody know if this is the same as the LN5200?
post #321 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by chosenpredator View Post

What is this IRE stuff you have below i dont understand it.... I set method to 20 point IRE, Pattern outer, IRE 100 (assuming thats what you meant) then all the other numbers beneath it confuse the living heck out of me lol...all i see in my options is red/green/blue which is all set on zero... what do i do here in this part?
IRE 100, IRE 90, IRE 80, etc. are grayscale steps. Those numbers are for acheiving accurate color luminance at each brightness level. IRE 100 is 100% white, IRE 0 is 100% black.
You calibrate this so each color is balanced between each other (no more saturated than the color neighboring it in any image).

So after you do IRE 100, you have to change the IRE 100 to 95, 90, and so on till you get to 0.
post #322 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by CH323 View Post

Do ALL IPS panels have the chevron pixels?

I picked up a 42LN5300-UB.AUSDLJR and i'm 99.9% sure it's IPS, but the pixels don't have the arrow shape. The magnifying glass i used was basically a little toy though, so I didn't get a close up look at all, so maybe I just couldn't see it. I read a few places that not all IPS panels have the distinguishable arrow shape, and I also noticed a few people in this thread mentioned that the 42" 5300s only come in IPS anyways.

I was curious, so I called LG and they said all new panels (this particular TV was made in October 2013) use IPS panels, but she couldn't help me with what the different letters meant. Are we sure that the 4th from the right specifies the panel type? I like the TV and even though I'm sure I have an IPS panel, my OCD makes me wonder what the "D" is, because a store I went to a few days ago had the "Y".

Edit: Nevermind, just did a little more research and found that LG's H-IPS panels don't have the chevron shape. Still, I'm wondering what the difference between the Y and the D was.

I have the "D" panel as well and from what's been said on here, the D's do not have the IPS panel, only the "Y's" do. I found a few Q's but I'm not sure what they are.
post #323 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

It's one of the best gaming TV's I've used so far with low input delay and has more than enough calibration features (because LG seems to be the one to base itself the best around ISFccc standards).

Finally set up the TV last night. I could've bought a "Y" panel at a different store and then returned the current one back to that other store ($70 price difference) but I'm too lazy for that. lol I set the TV up and I must say out of the box with out touching anything I'm not overly impressed.

watched a few min of an HD movie on Cinemax and then a few min of Sportscenter. Then flipped over to PS4. The UI of the PS4 looked great, and noticeably clearer than before,(going from 720 to 1080 will do that!) so I tried to play a few matches of COD Ghosts to see, and my god every time I turned or spun I got massive double imaging. It almost looked like the TV was trying to show a 3D image and I wasn't wearing glasses. I was seriously starting to get motion sick from it.. It did look good when not moving or just moving in a straight line though. Granted I will point out, this is straight out of the box, I didn't touch ANYTHING. The picture is way darker than what I'm used to, and I didn't have it on game mode. So I'm really really hoping that the game mode will fix that issue when moving, and I'll adjust the picture settings when I get home. Some may say it's not fair to judge the TV straight out of the box, but the TV I'm comparing it was never touched (well it was store demo model so if anything it was overly bright)

I really hope I can get this to work for me. I love how much lighter the TV is and even though it's a little bigger it takes up way less space and it should use a lot less power than the old one.

For those wondering I am replacing my 7-8 year old Samsung LN-R408D 720p/1080i
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cn9Trc8xSHS/p_305LNR408D/Samsung-LN-R408D.html


For those of you who remember seeing these.

Also just to show how far we've come, when i bought that TV, I paid $1800 as an open box floor model from Best Buy and it had been running on display all season So this TV has gotten it's use! And now I buy a bigger TV that steps up to 1080p for almost $1,500 less cool.gif
post #324 of 417
I'm looking to get a "Monitor" for my Garage that will work with my PC to watch Video, mainly Youtube for references, look at PDFs, lread forum posts, ook at Service manuals, WWW browsing etc.

The kinds of things you would do with a PC in a Garage. I also have Directv there.

Can someone with a decent camera, post a pic of the Text in a Browsing window or something to see what text and windows labels look like?

The first post does not have a decent pic up close and the only other PIC of a PC screen looks pretty bad.

I am debating between a 27" Computer Monitor and this TV.
post #325 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by P51-SN95 View Post


I have the "D" panel as well and from what's been said on here, the D's do not have the IPS panel, only the "Y's" do. I found a few Q's but I'm not sure what they are.

 

Not true. I have the"D" and it's 100% an IPS panel. Checked with a better magnifying glass and it does have the Chevron shaped pixels. Also I called LG and they said that A) The 42" model of the LN5300 only comes with IPS and B) They only use IPS panels for all their new TVs now.

post #326 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by CH323 View Post

Not true. I have the"D" and it's 100% an IPS panel. Checked with a better magnifying glass and it does have the Chevron shaped pixels. Also I called LG and they said that A) The 42" model of the LN5300 only comes with IPS and B) They only use IPS panels for all their new TVs now.

There is god. eek.gif

IPS forever. cool.gif
post #327 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by P51-SN95 View Post

Finally set up the TV last night. I could've bought a "Y" panel at a different store and then returned the current one back to that other store ($70 price difference) but I'm too lazy for that. lol I set the TV up and I must say out of the box with out touching anything I'm not overly impressed.

watched a few min of an HD movie on Cinemax and then a few min of Sportscenter. Then flipped over to PS4. The UI of the PS4 looked great, and noticeably clearer than before,(going from 720 to 1080 will do that!) so I tried to play a few matches of COD Ghosts to see, and my god every time I turned or spun I got massive double imaging. It almost looked like the TV was trying to show a 3D image and I wasn't wearing glasses. I was seriously starting to get motion sick from it.. It did look good when not moving or just moving in a straight line though. Granted I will point out, this is straight out of the box, I didn't touch ANYTHING. The picture is way darker than what I'm used to, and I didn't have it on game mode. So I'm really really hoping that the game mode will fix that issue when moving, and I'll adjust the picture settings when I get home. Some may say it's not fair to judge the TV straight out of the box, but the TV I'm comparing it was never touched (well it was store demo model so if anything it was overly bright)

I really hope I can get this to work for me. I love how much lighter the TV is and even though it's a little bigger it takes up way less space and it should use a lot less power than the old one.

For those wondering I am replacing my 7-8 year old Samsung LN-R408D 720p/1080i
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cn9Trc8xSHS/p_305LNR408D/Samsung-LN-R408D.html

Also just to show how far we've come, when i bought that TV, I paid $1800 as an open box floor model from Best Buy and it had been running on display all season So this TV has gotten it's use! And now I buy a bigger TV that steps up to 1080p for almost $1,500 less cool.gif

If there was any sort of Trumotion on while watching your content, the judder from it producing uneven frames would make that double image effect. When using HDMI and an RGB signal, rename your HDMI input label to PC.

I have no serious ghosting on my display and you shouldn't have it either as the LN5300 panels produce lower than 8ms response time (that and LG isn't an offrbrand using panels that Vizio, Dynex, etc. would use rolleyes.gif). Hope it isn't a dud panel redface.gif
post #328 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDA400 View Post

If there was any sort of Trumotion on while watching your content, the judder from it producing uneven frames would make that double image effect. When using HDMI and an RGB signal, rename your HDMI input label to PC.

I have no serious ghosting on my display and you shouldn't have it either as the LN5300 panels produce lower than 8ms response time (that and LG isn't an offrbrand using panels that Vizio, Dynex, etc. would use rolleyes.gif). Hope it isn't a dud panel redface.gif

I set it to game mode last night and it appears to have helped a little but I still felt a bit queezy at times. I've always wondered how people could feel nauseous from video games, this is the first time I've ever felt this way from watchign something on screen. And I almost wonder if it's due to the fact that there really isn't any, or as much blur as I'm used to. So I see the blur and it sorta smoothes things out, now it just seems more like flip book (but with clearer pictures if that makes sense) IDK, I'll try the PC label tonight. I'm also going to try to connect the PS4 directly to the TV and bypass my reciever, just to see what that does.

I'm probably also going to get an HDMI splitter and while I can connect both TV's up at once so I can go back and forth between the two.

Yeah I know I'm making a big deal about this, but if I can why not settle a curiosity?
post #329 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by P51-SN95 View Post

I set it to game mode last night and it appears to have helped a little but I still felt a bit queezy at times. I've always wondered how people could feel nauseous from video games, this is the first time I've ever felt this way from watchign something on screen. And I almost wonder if it's due to the fact that there really isn't any, or as much blur as I'm used to. So I see the blur and it sorta smoothes things out, now it just seems more like flip book (but with clearer pictures if that makes sense) IDK, I'll try the PC label tonight. I'm also going to try to connect the PS4 directly to the TV and bypass my reciever, just to see what that does.

I'm probably also going to get an HDMI splitter and while I can connect both TV's up at once so I can go back and forth between the two.

Yeah I know I'm making a big deal about this, but if I can why not settle a curiosity?

The "Game" picture mode does nothing for speeding up processing or disabling certain motion features. LG's use the PC input label as a "game mode" and TV's that have an actual Game Mode might also have a PC mode as well (Samsung). PC mode is always better than "Game Mode" but it only activates under certain conditions. If you have a digital 60hz source and will only look right with RGB color space (otherwise red and green are off balance with YCbCr).

For reference, I dusted off the 'ol PS2 that I have component cables for and played in 480p. Changing both the picture mode to Game and input label to Game didn't make the delay any worse or better. It's more of the classification and preset that Game Mode is on an LG than helping picture processing.

People are use to hearing game mode will solve most of their woes, but I am saying that recently since PC mode has been offered on some brands to turn your HDTV into a monitor (4:4:4 chroma and RGB processing) it is better to find a TV with that rather than a Game Mode. Game Mode is good for the older sources like Component/Composite.
post #330 of 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by CH323 View Post

Not true. I have the"D" and it's 100% an IPS panel. Checked with a better magnifying glass and it does have the Chevron shaped pixels. Also I called LG and they said that A) The 42" model of the LN5300 only comes with IPS and B) They only use IPS panels for all their new TVs now.

So I'm sorta confused by all of this D / Y etc talk.

I just bought the 39 inch one from BestBuy. I called the number and got them to match the current Amazon.com price of $347.90 and then placed the order over the phone for in store pickup. Hooray for not waiting! I may go pick it up tonight or instead perhaps tomorrow afternoon.

So I guess what I need to know is when I get the TV is there something I need to look for on the outside of the box to make sure I got the good model?

I only plan to play Xbox One on the TV basically so I was going to use the settings from Tralfamadore. Frankly, I'm not good at adjusting settings to make the picture look good as I don't really have the experience of knowing how it's supposed to really look.

Anyway... can someone please advise on the above so I know if my plan is sound?
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