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2013 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 71

post #2101 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasrun2 View Post

If you use your Mac to download and copy to the card, those invisible files are the resource forks for the jpegs.  Your Mac does not show them, but the TV sees them and then stops the Slide Show because they are not readable.  I have seen various solutions to wipe those files off the SD card or USB drive, but with my Snow Leopard OSX, they did not work.  I did this:

1.  Erase and Format the SD card for Fat32.
2.  Write the files onto the blank card or drive from my PC laptop.  No hidden files, so plays perfect.
3.  If you have another OSX maybe the suggestions for using the 'Clean' commands in the Terminal will work.
4.  Check this link on how to clean those files.  http://superuser.com/questions/319553/mac-terminal-script-to-remove-hidden-files

...That my friend worked to perfection...cannot thank you enough for taking the time to help me out...Cheers!
post #2102 of 3314
You might be using the older incorrect settings that were posted.
D-Nice updated the files on the 27th. Download the new zip and the table for the Night mode should show 6 for brightness instead of 8.

Best Regards
KvE
Edited by KMFDMvsEnya - 11/7/13 at 7:17pm
post #2103 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by zefres View Post


I tried everyone's settings DNICE, CNET, Sound & Vision, and I have to say...they are not close. The major issue I see is that there is an extreme red push and orange does not look natural at all. I see that others have tried these settings and they all say Wow!!....what am I missing? I noticed this was done on a 55". Do those settings carryover to the 60', or am I out of luck? I'm meticulous and I've triple checked every setting. Any help would be great. Even someone else with a calibrated 60" set and some settings would be great.

You're missing a professional calibration for your TV.
post #2104 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jconjason View Post

You're missing a professional calibration for your TV.

+1
post #2105 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jconjason View Post

You're missing a professional calibration for your TV.

Can't be that far off. I've gotten settings for my other sets prior to calibration and they at least get you in the ballpark. I do plan on having it calibrated for X-Mas.
post #2106 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

If you intend to use DNice settings then enter them under Custom.

That's not correct for the VT/ZT models (it is for others), his are for the Professional / ISFccc modes. Unlike previous NA generations, Custom is its own base template.
Edited by turbe - 11/7/13 at 6:03pm
post #2107 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

That's not correct, his are for the Professional / ISFccc modes. Unlike previous NA generations, Custom is its own base template.

Actually, Bond is correct. The ST settings are for Custom, which you can find on page one.

The ones you're referring to are for the VT. However, the set in question was an ST.
post #2108 of 3314
yes, was updating to clarify as you posted ..
post #2109 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by zefres View Post

Can't be that far off. I've gotten settings for my other sets prior to calibration and they at least get you in the ballpark. I do plan on having it calibrated for X-Mas.

The reds are gorgeous on this set. Something is definitely not right.
post #2110 of 3314


I am curious to whether anyone else exhibits significant banding in the atmosphere of the planet on the right side, in between the saucer section and the fade to black.
-Fed the picture from a USB thumb drive.

I got the 60" VT60 last week but only really tried out some pictures with it today briefly, after 124 hours of break-in slides, and noticed some prominent banding in that part of the picture.
I first used the settings D-Nice posted recently then toggled through the rest of the picture settings and it persisted. It does not happen on my PC monitor or Kuro.

Thanks
KvE
Edited by KMFDMvsEnya - 11/7/13 at 7:41pm
post #2111 of 3314
Give me a time stamp I will check it out.

ss
post #2112 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMFDMvsEnya View Post



I am curious to whether anyone else exhibits significant banding in the atmosphere of the planet on the right side, in between the saucer section and the fade to black.
-Fed the picture from a USB thumb drive.

I got the 60" VT60 last week but only really tried out some pictures with it today briefly, after 124 hours of break-in slides, and noticed some prominent banding in that part of the picture.
I first used the settings D-Nice posted recently then toggled through the rest of the picture settings and it persisted. It does not happen on my PC monitor or Kuro.

Thanks
KvE
 


  I am curious as to whether or not you have this happen on other material. If you read my issue on page 70, It sounds like we may have a similar issue. Though I seem to get it on any and every movie and it appears more obvious on animated shows. It also seems to be picky about which "items" within the show have the banding. Whether it be a brown shirt. a yellow hat, someones face, or sometimes the lighter blacks in the backgrounds.

  As one commenter stated It may be my source which is a Ps3, I still need to use another player and see what happens. But it is quite a annoyance.
 

post #2113 of 3314
I need some help with calibrating black and white on the VT60. I am using AVSHD and have read that it is not possible to get the whites calibrated properly without pushing the brightness way up, which then messes up the blacks.

Using the AVSHD tools, I can get black pretty spot on at about +4, but I can't get the whites to stop flashing past the 235 mark I believe it is. The only way to accomplish that is by pushing my brightness up past +18 or something which I do not like.

Right now I have it at 64 for contrast, and +4 for brightness which produces a pleasing picture, but obviously I'd like my whites to be perfect as well, if possible. Is this something that can only be done by using ControlCal or another calibration program? I've calibrated two LCD's using AVSHD and never had this problem with the whites.

Sorry if my question sounds so noobish. This is my first plasma wink.gif
Edited by DasRetroKid - 11/8/13 at 7:26am
post #2114 of 3314
You don't need to stop 235 and above from flashing just so 235 and above is visible you are good, depending on your contrast setting you will clip somewhere in the 240 to 245 range. Brightness should be set so the 16 bar is invisible and the 17 bar is barely visible.

With contrast you are not really setting the purity of whites just light output avoiding white and rgb clipping if that is happening. To get pure whites you need a neutral greyscale which can only be done accurately with a meter and software.
post #2115 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You don't need to stop 235 and above from flashing just so 235 and above is visible you are good, depending on your contrast setting you will clip somewhere in the 240 to 245 range. Brightness should be set so the 16 bar is invisible and the 17 bar is barely visible.

With contrast you are not really setting the purity of whites just light output avoiding white and rgb clipping if that is happening. To get pure whites you need a neutral greyscale which can only be done accurately with a meter and software.

Thank you
post #2116 of 3314
No problem, there is a bit of a learning curve but just stay patient and read everything you can here. All of us were "noobs" at some point smile.gif
post #2117 of 3314
Hello,

Upgraded from a 55 ST30 to the 60ST60. Just finished running the slides and plugged in the settings on page 1 to tide me over until I had 300 hours and get a calibration. Picture looks great, however I've noticed a slight reddish hue on blacks. This was confirmed when I ran the AVCHD to confirm brightness levels (which were dead on) -- the flashing bars had a reddish tinge, espeically the ones further to the left.

Has anyone else noticed the above? Specifically, when running the AVCHD black-level scene? I've read through all 60+ pages and did see another mention of this in the beginning however it didn't really go anywhere.

As a solution, I read that the Low Red WB value can be lowered in the WB settings. DNICE's setting is 3, however when I move it to 2 the tint is greatly reduce; at 1 it appears to be gone completely. Will changing this value by 1 or 2 clicks completely through off the rest of the advanced WD/Gamma settings? If so, any other potential solutions?

Thanks!
post #2118 of 3314
It will skew the settings a little but not significantly, you are likely off from ideal anyway. That's a pretty good temporary solution imo
post #2119 of 3314
Thanks! Settings look excellent aside from that issue, can't wait to get a proper calibration.
post #2120 of 3314
Who will be doing that for you ? I'll put in a plug for ChadB if you are in the Midwest ?
post #2121 of 3314
I wish, heard great things about his work.

I'm in Western MA, would love any recommendations you might have. A little lost on where to look, checked the ISF site but couldn't find anything.
post #2122 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjubinvi View Post

I wish, heard great things about his work.

I'm in Western MA, would love any recommendations you might have. A little lost on where to look, checked the ISF site but couldn't find anything.

Try here...

http://www.avsforum.com/t/586330/isf-calibrators-where-are-you-located-please-post-here/2910#post_23924193
post #2123 of 3314
Thanks!

Wonder if Chad B does any tours in the MA/CT area? Have seen a ton of great feedback on his calibrations.
post #2124 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjubinvi View Post

I wish, heard great things about his work.

I'm in Western MA, would love any recommendations you might have. A little lost on where to look, checked the ISF site but couldn't find anything.
Go to post #2108. That's a post by turbe. Use link in his signature area to find what you want.

You can use the link in my signature area at the bottom of my post for customer reports about their professional calibrations done by calibrators who are active here at AVS. Start with post number to which is dedicated to flat panel sets.
Edited by htwaits - 11/8/13 at 9:52pm
post #2125 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjubinvi View Post

Thanks!

Wonder if Chad B does any tours in the MA/CT area? Have seen a ton of great feedback on his calibrations.
Ask him with a PM. smile.gif
post #2126 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Ask him with a PM. smile.gif

DNice is another option for you as well, not that Chad wouldn't do an excellent job as well. May want to see who is in the area first, I would also check with Kevin Miller too.
post #2127 of 3314
Sounds good, I will check with them. Appreciate all the recommendations!
post #2128 of 3314
I'm sure they have been posted somewhere in this thread but without going through 70 pages, what are recommended 3D settings ?

I have 65ST60A

cheers
post #2129 of 3314
Hey guys,
My ST60 arrives in a few days and I have been reading most of this thread along with the owners thread. It seems to me that there are quite a few owners that are not overly satisfied with the color results with DNICE settings especially the " red" being too much. I have not heard many complaints using CNETs settings?? Now I do realize each plasma varies and that in no way do these take the place of a pro calibration but honestly, one must be more accurate than another or preferred by most?

Who has used both and what are the visual differences? As a side note my current 58" panasonic plasma was calibrated by using settings from a pro (who never came to my home) that owns the same tv and calibrated many before. I was very impressed with the results which makes me confident I will find a setting that I like:)


Thanks and no offense to DNICE or anyone else, these threads and the info they contribute are very much appreciated!
post #2130 of 3314
Quote:
Originally Posted by merrymaid520 View Post

Hey guys,
My ST60 arrives in a few days and I have been reading most of this thread along with the owners thread. It seems to me that there are quite a few owners that are not overly satisfied with the color results with DNICE settings especially the " red" being too much. I have not heard many complaints using CNETs settings?? Now I do realize each plasma varies and that in no way do these take the place of a pro calibration but honestly, one must be more accurate than another or preferred by most?

Who has used both and what are the visual differences? As a side note my current 58" panasonic plasma was calibrated by using settings from a pro (who never came to my home) that owns the same tv and calibrated many before. I was very impressed with the results which makes me confident I will find a setting that I like:)


Thanks and no offense to DNICE or anyone else, these threads and the info they contribute are very much appreciated!

Why not try them both out for yourself and decide which you prefer?
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