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2013 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 96

post #2851 of 3315
Thank you so much, you rock!
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Sorry I can't post any more settings in my VT60 setting post, so I am adding this post in my link also.


Picture Mode: Custom Mode
Contrast: 86
Brightness:+2
Color: 48
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Vivid Color: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
...

ss
post #2852 of 3315
Wondering if anyone has some calibrated settings to use for gaming on the vt60. I'm using an xbox one and while it does have a basic calibration walkthrough w/ colour temp warm1 and gamma 2.2 recommendations as well as test patterns for contrast and brightness I am struggling to decide what looks best on which picture mode. I think I'll try sillysally's setting and see how they look on my set, but I would appreciate any input on the subject. Thanks in advance.
post #2853 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Sorry I can't post any more settings in my VT60 setting post, so I am adding this post in my link also.


Picture Mode: Custom Mode
Contrast: 86
Brightness:+2
Color: 48
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Normal
Vivid Color: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off


Pro Settings
Panel Brightness: Mid
AGC: 0
Black Extension: 0
Color Gamut: Rec.709 or Native (I use Native for my large LUT's)

W/B Detail Adjustment
W/B High R:-1
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B:-17
W/B Low R: +2
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: -2

(W/B) More Detail Adjustment
10 W/B R:+5
10 W/B G: 0
10 W/B B:+25

20 W/B R:-4
20 W/B G: 0
20 W/B B:-3

30 W/B R:+1
30 W/B G: 0
30 W/B B:-6

40 W/B R:+1
40 W/B G: 0
40 W/B B:+2

50 W/B R:-6
50 W/B G: 0
50 W/B B:-7

60 W/B R -3
60 W/B G: 0
60 W/B B:-2

70 W/B R:-5
70 W/B G: 0
70 W/B B:-7

80 W/B R:+1
80 W/B G: 0
80 W/B B:+3

90 W/B R:-3
90 W/B G: 0
90 W/B B -1

100 W/B R: 0
100 W/B G: 0
100 W/B B:+3

Used a LUT profile 21^3,
If you have eecolor box I can E-mail the LUT for these setiings
[/COLOR]

Gamma Detail Adjustment
Gamma: 2.4
(Gamma) More Detail Adjustment
10 Gain: 0
20 Gain: 0
30 Gain: 0
40 Gain: 0
50 Gain: 0
60 Gain: 0
70 Gain: 0
80 Gain: 0
90 Gain: 0
100 Gain:0

Advance Picture
Game mode: Off
24p Direct in 96Hz :Note you must be sending your VT60 a 24p signal (Blu Ray disc playing) to be able to set this setting.
3:2 PullDown: Auto

HDMI Content Type and auto detailing.
Off

HDMI/DVI RGB Range
Standard (16-235)

Black Level: Light

Screen format, Full
Overscan, Off
H Size, 1
Screen display, On
4:3 side bars Off (for Blu Ray disc)
Pixel orbiter, Auto

ss

Sorry for not understanding but would I use rec.709 or native?
post #2854 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg17 View Post

Sorry for not understanding but would I use rec.709 or native?

Probably REC 709. However I did these and all my settings with Native. So if you want try both have some fun.

ss
post #2855 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

Probably REC 709. However I did these and all my settings with Native. So if you want try both have some fun.

ss

So you don't need a LUT device like eecolor to use Native? I don't understand the connection between Native an LUT.
post #2856 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb4 View Post

I have your other settings which were done in Pro mode. I like them. I was curious how these new ones differed visually from the older ones. Are you saying they will look the same and that it is for those that don't know how to activat the Pro modes?

Custom mode calibrates a little different from the Pro modes.
You may see a little difference, try it and see if there is a difference.
Also you source material (broadcast TV, DVD, Blu Ray) will vary so that also could have a impact on what you see.
Plasma display's will shift, so keep in mind that the three posted settings are all done on different days and with slightly different meter profiles.

I use a I1Pro 2 spectro meter to profile my K10-A color meter, using my display for profiling these two meters just before I calibrate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Just curious: if using your settings, why would using Custom vs. Pro Mode be any different?

See above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post

So you don't need a LUT device like eecolor to use Native? I don't understand the connection between Native an LUT.

No you don't need a eecolor box to use Native.

3D LUT Cube uses both inner and outer color points (3 dimensional) , a normal (709) 6 color point uses outer color points (1 dimensional). For my LUT cubes I use 21^3 (about 9240 color points).
A Native or Wide Color Gamut is larger than a 709 color gamut, therefore the native Gamut being bigger will expand/stretch out the Gamut and therefore is better suited for a large LUT.
However some display's may not be well suited for a Native Gamut even if you are using a LUT cube, the VT60 is well suited for a LUT cube and that is probably why the VT60 includes the Native setting.
Note: for a much better and technical explanation of all this run a browser search.

As far as will you see a difference for a 1 dimensional calibration using Native, that's up to you.

ss
post #2857 of 3315
Can anyone tell me what the "V" on the stand is made of? Plastic or metal or plastic over metal? I've asked multiple times but no one seems to answer that part
post #2858 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

Can anyone tell me what the "V" on the stand is made of? Plastic or metal or plastic over metal? I've asked multiple times but no one seems to answer that part

I am sure it's made out of steel. There is no way they would skimp on that when the rest of it is steel. Plastic would never support it.

EDIT: With chrome finished plastic over top.
post #2859 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasaic View Post

Wondering if anyone has some calibrated settings to use for gaming on the vt60. I'm using an xbox one and while it does have a basic calibration walkthrough w/ colour temp warm1 and gamma 2.2 recommendations as well as test patterns for contrast and brightness I am struggling to decide what looks best on which picture mode. I think I'll try sillysally's setting and see how they look on my set, but I would appreciate any input on the subject. Thanks in advance.

I am also searching for this answer. I play battlefield 4 on my 65VT60. It is darker and harder to see in the dark areas than on my $500 720p plasma. The picture is definitely better but I was hoping to see some more detail in the dark and shadowy areas. My friends are always amazed when they see my plasma and how much more they can see in the dark areas than on their led's. So far THX Bright Room provides the most detail. Turning up the brightness helps but starts to wash out the color. I would like to have a dedicated Pro 1 or 2 just to play this game but can't seem to find the right settings. Any ideas?

Thanks
post #2860 of 3315
Tried sillysally's settings under Custom and really like the picture. But I noticed Brilliance Enchancer wasn't addressed. I have a ZT. Is Brilliance Enchancer specific to the ZT? I set it to off.
post #2861 of 3315
Has anyone tried Silly Sally's pro mode settings and changed the gamma from 2.4 to 2.2? The 2.4 gamma was a little too dark for me so I changed the gamma to 2.2. It brightened it up nicely so now its brightness is similar to Cnet's.
post #2862 of 3315
I've in boxed a few on this issue but I am going to post to see what you guys think. And since there is no more left I can't exchange or return and shop elsewhere because well there are no more. I had this problem with the first October build I had. Here's how the story goes and the link provided shows the original
Post which is why I swapped and and am still having the same issue.

it's post #8868 here is the link:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1467563/official-panasonic-vt60-vt65-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/8850#post_24100543

So Amazon sent me a new set with an October build date as well. Now idk if this is something that is just affecting the October builds or if it's a normal thing for 65" inch version but my new October set which is the new one brought by Amazon for the swap out has the same issue so at this point I've decided its normal or QC issue from October builds. I would like to hear your feedback.
post #2863 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

I've in boxed a few on this issue but I am going to post to see what you guys think. And since there is no more left I can't exchange or return and shop elsewhere because well there are no more. I had this problem with the first October build I had. Here's how the story goes and the link provided shows the original
Post which is why I swapped and and am still having the same issue.

it's post #8868 here is the link:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1467563/official-panasonic-vt60-vt65-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/8850#post_24100543

So Amazon sent me a new set with an October build date as well. Now idk if this is something that is just affecting the October builds or if it's a normal thing for 65" inch version but my new October set which is the new one brought by Amazon for the swap out has the same issue so at this point I've decided its normal or QC issue from October builds. I would like to hear your feedback.

Didn't this already get addressed here? What would change?
post #2864 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by neveralone777 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasaic View Post

Wondering if anyone has some calibrated settings to use for gaming on the vt60. I'm using an xbox one and while it does have a basic calibration walkthrough w/ colour temp warm1 and gamma 2.2 recommendations as well as test patterns for contrast and brightness I am struggling to decide what looks best on which picture mode. I think I'll try sillysally's setting and see how they look on my set, but I would appreciate any input on the subject. Thanks in advance.

I am also searching for this answer. I play battlefield 4 on my 65VT60. It is darker and harder to see in the dark areas than on my $500 720p plasma. The picture is definitely better but I was hoping to see some more detail in the dark and shadowy areas. My friends are always amazed when they see my plasma and how much more they can see in the dark areas than on their led's. So far THX Bright Room provides the most detail. Turning up the brightness helps but starts to wash out the color. I would like to have a dedicated Pro 1 or 2 just to play this game but can't seem to find the right settings. Any ideas?

Thanks

Lower the gamma, as in go one notch down in absolute numbers, say from 2.4 to 2.2.
Brightness setting raises the absolute black level so you see more shadow detail but lose absolute black. Gamma changes the rate at which the picture goes from black to all the grey steps up to white.
post #2865 of 3315
Is there a consolidated list of peoples different settings for the ST60? I obviously saw D-Nice's.
post #2866 of 3315
I just completed my 100 Hour D'Nice Slides and ready to view..

Read somewhere try to watch Full Screen first 300 hours. I have mine on Full right now to minimize any black borders. I noticed that pixels at the edges (like top right corner) have like a "swimming effect" where they fluctuate by not filling the picture to the edges. There is a row of 2-3 pixels not being lit up all the time.

When I changed to Overscan = Yes the "swimming effect" is gone and picture increases to edge of panel by a few pixels and stays lit all the time.

Question: Ok to leave Overscan setting to On for first 300 hours or just turn it off?
post #2867 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlpatel View Post

I just completed my 100 Hour D'Nice Slides and ready to view..

Read somewhere try to watch Full Screen first 300 hours. I have mine on Full right now to minimize any black borders. I noticed that pixels at the edges (like top right corner) have like a "swimming effect" where they fluctuate by not filling the picture to the edges. There is a row of 2-3 pixels not being lit up all the time.

When I changed to Overscan = Yes the "swimming effect" is gone and picture increases to edge of panel by a few pixels and stays lit all the time.

Question: Ok to leave Overscan setting to On for first 300 hours or just turn it off?
Sure its OK. Overscan will soften the image a little bit, but it also hides SDTV noise along the edges of the image. What you are seeing is edge noise that used to be cropped back in the CRT days when a TV had to have a lot of overscan to hide that area of the image. Are you watching SDTV material by any chance?

If you watch a good mix of types of material, you shouldn't have to worry about black bars. Watching 100% wide screen movies with an aspect ratio of 2.25:1 might not be be a good idea, but not many people would do that.
post #2868 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Sure its OK. Overscan will soften the image a little bit, but it also hides SDTV noise along the edges of the image. What you are seeing is edge noise that used to be cropped back in the CRT days when a TV had to have a lot of overscan to hide that area of the image. Are you watching SDTV material by any chance?

It's not just SD that is affected. My local NBC HD channel has had a half inch tall black border at the top of the screen for years, and in the upper left corner, there is a 2x2 block of bright white pixels continuing to the right as gray pixels about half an inch. I haven't looked at it in a while, but I just put it on Leno and verified it's still doing it. It was always there on shows like Law & Order. The last time I looked at this, I found many other HD channels had borders of varying size and position, and some also displayed junk in them. So, I always enable Overscan for broadcast TV and only broadcast TV, and by that I mean OTA and cable. For my HTPC, I turn Overscan off on the TV for that input and enable it in Windows Media Center, which I use only for broadcast TV. I watch other video in XBMC, for which overscan is not enabled, so I get 1:1 mapping for all my other video. For Bluray, streamers, etc, Overscan should also be disabled.
post #2869 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Sure its OK. Overscan will soften the image a little bit, but it also hides SDTV noise along the edges of the image. What you are seeing is edge noise that used to be cropped back in the CRT days when a TV had to have a lot of overscan to hide that area of the image. Are you watching SDTV material by any chance?

It's not just SD that is affected. My local NBC HD channel has had a half inch tall black border at the top of the screen for years, and in the upper left corner, there is a 2x2 block of bright white pixels continuing to the right as gray pixels about half an inch. I haven't looked at it in a while, but I just put it on Leno and verified it's still doing it. It was always there on shows like Law & Order. The last time I looked at this, I found many other HD channels had borders of varying size and position, and some also displayed junk in them. So, I always enable Overscan for broadcast TV and only broadcast TV, and by that I mean OTA and cable. For my HTPC, I turn Overscan off on the TV for that input and enable it in Windows Media Center, which I use only for broadcast TV. I watch other video in XBMC, for which overscan is not enabled, so I get 1:1 mapping for all my other video. For Bluray, streamers, etc, Overscan should also be disabled.
With your situation I would do exactly the same thing. In our area, since I stopped watching SDTV, I've never had to use overscan. For all it's other faults, and some of them are terrible, Comcast hasn't done anything like what you describe in the past several years.
post #2870 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by eaayoung View Post

Tried sillysally's settings under Custom and really like the picture. But I noticed Brilliance Enchancer wasn't addressed. I have a ZT. Is Brilliance Enchancer specific to the ZT? I set it to off.

Yes you did the right thing. All enchantments are turned off.

Glad to hear those settings are working well for the ZT. smile.gif

ss
post #2871 of 3315
Hi folks, i thought i had the info saved somewhere, but alas i do not.

How do i set my 50st60 to startup like a normal TV, and go straight to the cable box in full screen mode?

I swear I read that I could do this...

Thanks !

EDIT: I found it, third time googling found the CNET article with the explanaton.

FWIW, i tried the Cinema settings first, they were the best of the factory setups. I loaded DNice's calibration settings into Custom, and I beleive it looks much better. Flesh tones are a lot more lifelike, at first blush.

I'm looking to have Michael Chen calibrate my display end of February, looking forward to both the education, and end results. (michael's site can be found here: http://www.tlvexp.ca/) ... i think i heard about him in this thread somewhere? anyhow, so far so good with the ST60.
Edited by CSEmoses - 1/29/14 at 11:32pm
post #2872 of 3315
** 3D **
Tried 3D for the first time last night. I unpacked one pair of glasses and after trying unsuccessfully to decipher the IKEA-like instructions, went to eHelp in the VT60's Menu. That thing is a breath of fresh air in the world of user manuals by the way. I removed the lens protector sheets from both sides of each lens and yanked pretty hard to pull out the battery protector tab. I learned how to turn on the glasses by pressing the little square button on top for one second and I assumed I was in business. I started IMAX's Legends of Flight on NetFlix Streaming wondering if I was supposed to press the 3D button on the remote. But Netflix was one step ahead of me and asked if I wanted to do that and I checked YES onscreen. And off we went.

The 3D experience was interesting in large part due to the subject matter which was the Boeing 787 and AirBus A380. Three dimensional images of birds flying, bees buzzing around, Boeing factory shots and F16's coming from behind were pretty neat. And combined with surround sound - yeah, pretty neat. I wouldn't make a steady diet of it but hell its on the set and the glasses were included, so what the hell.....
post #2873 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Didn't this already get addressed here? What would change?

Yes but this is a new unit cause I swapped it as has the same thing in the same spot. Just annoying to have such a great TV with these dumb little issues that hold it from completely satisfying me. Wonder if it's just the 65" cause I don't remember that on the 60" before I upgraded. If I knew the 65" would have the same issue twice I would of went back to the 60" but it's too late for that.
post #2874 of 3315
Here's a better pic of the issue. It's definitely a bother but idk if it's enough to justify not having one.

post #2875 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Sure its OK. Overscan will soften the image a little bit, but it also hides SDTV noise along the edges of the image. What you are seeing is edge noise that used to be cropped back in the CRT days when a TV had to have a lot of overscan to hide that area of the image. Are you watching SDTV material by any chance?

If you watch a good mix of types of material, you shouldn't have to worry about black bars. Watching 100% wide screen movies with an aspect ratio of 2.25:1 might not be be a good idea, but not many people would do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

It's not just SD that is affected. My local NBC HD channel has had a half inch tall black border at the top of the screen for years, and in the upper left corner, there is a 2x2 block of bright white pixels continuing to the right as gray pixels about half an inch. I haven't looked at it in a while, but I just put it on Leno and verified it's still doing it. It was always there on shows like Law & Order. The last time I looked at this, I found many other HD channels had borders of varying size and position, and some also displayed junk in them. So, I always enable Overscan for broadcast TV and only broadcast TV, and by that I mean OTA and cable. For my HTPC, I turn Overscan off on the TV for that input and enable it in Windows Media Center, which I use only for broadcast TV. I watch other video in XBMC, for which overscan is not enabled, so I get 1:1 mapping for all my other video. For Bluray, streamers, etc, Overscan should also be disabled.


Thanks for the response !

I am watching HD channels on Uverse where I notice it if I go extremely close to the TV. Yes I would call it edge noise but from 15 feet back viewing position I cannot see it but concerned those few pixels were not getting turned "on" constantly may lead to improper image in future. I guess I will let it on for first 300 hours then turn Overscan off.
post #2876 of 3315
Hello,
I've had my ST60 for almost a year now and I had a question. Is it only necessary to run the slides right out of the box? Or will I still be able to use them to get the same quality picture after using D-Nice's settings?
post #2877 of 3315
This is what Amazon stated: not quite sure what to do here.

Your Account Amazon.com
Message From Customer Service
Hello,

I'm sorry to hear that the replacement TV you received was also defective.

I looked up our website and unfortunately, we don't have any more stock of 'Panasonic TC-P65VT60 65-Inch 1080p 600Hz 3D Smart Plasma HDTV' right now, and we can't predict exactly how long it'll take to obtain it or when we'll be able to ship it. If you place an order, we'll do our best to get the item for you, and we'll e-mail you as soon as we have more information from our suppliers.

If it takes too long for us to find stock, you can cancel the order anytime before it enters the shipping process, and you won't be charged.

Since you prefer to have replacement instead of refund, I'd like to inform you that we offer free 30-day technical support for 30 days after you receive your television. Just go to www.amazon.com/customer-service and click "Contact Us," select your TV, and we'll give you a call during our hours of operation. We're available every day from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. PST.

Further, if still the defect hasn't been rectified, I'd like to offer you the following options to care of this for you:

1) Partial Refund- A partial of $458.00 which is the 20% of the TV cost, so that you can get the TV repaired locally. You don't have to return the TV back to us.

2) Full Refund: A full to your Amazon.com Store Card and you have to return the TV back to us.

Please use the link below to let us know which option you'd prefer, so that we can take care of it for you and assist you accordingly.

Please visit the following link to provide the information we requested:

http://www.amazon.com/rsvp-mi?c=wdbvqgce3742844869&q=o2r

I realize that at this point of time asking you to contact us again would be disappointing, but in a situation like this, it is very important for us that we provide you with accurate and expedient resolution and in my experience, this is the best way to be certain that your issue is resolved more appropriately.

We appreciate your understanding and look forward to seeing you again soon.

Best regards,
Nelson T
post #2878 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by nerdybynatuure View Post

Hello,
I've had my ST60 for almost a year now and I had a question. Is it only necessary to run the slides right out of the box? Or will I still be able to use them to get the same quality picture after using D-Nice's settings?

Just put in his settings they may or may not look good on your set. The point of the slides is to evenly age the phosphers for using his settings that needs to be done in the first 100 to 300 hours of the sets life.
post #2879 of 3315
Hi sillysally. I remember you from the Pioneer 141 thread. Still have mine and had it calibrated by DaWane back in 2010. Now in vacation home I have the 65vt60. I put in his settings and yours. I don't know what to put in for the color detail values for yours. You show (Used a LUT profile 21^3, If you have eecolor box I can E-mail the LUT for these settings [/COLOR]) but I don't have these.

Thanks for your help.

Gerry
post #2880 of 3315
Definitely agree. Changing the gamma to 2.2 is a lot better for me in terms of being less dark and more detailed shadow areas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb4 View Post

Has anyone tried Silly Sally's pro mode settings and changed the gamma from 2.4 to 2.2? The 2.4 gamma was a little too dark for me so I changed the gamma to 2.2. It brightened it up nicely so now its brightness is similar to Cnet's.
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