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2013 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 30

post #871 of 3303
Shouldnt be too hard
post #872 of 3303
M
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIG1001 View Post

How are these fans pluged in 3 pin? You are better off opening the back and replacing the fans with silent fans
my guess would be its the grill the panny fans are blowing through more than the fan itself, don't know that for sure though
post #873 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonThomasDesigns View Post

Oooooh Snap ... I think i invented (more like Macgyvered) a quality Noise blocker for the VT60 fans and it looks good ...

First the SilverStone 140mm Fan Filter with Magnet for Case Fan/Power Supply Fan and Panel Air Vent FF141B (Black)

Then SilverStone 120mm Fan Filter with Grill FF121 (Black)



I used a tiny bit of scotch tape to mount the 120m Fan filter onto the 140mm fan filter


The 140mm Fan Filter has tiny magnets that stick directly over the fans on the VT60 , It still allows the hot air to escape and since both of the filter were made for fan sound it blocks most of the sound ..




Oh don't sue me it it blows up your TV so use at your own risk .. but I Tested it and it really seems to work and of course you can just use the 140mm filter , but combining them gave me great results



Cool, looks like something I can do pretty easily. However, will the magnet mess up the screen over time or even the components underneath the metal back? I actually thought about rpelacing the fans too, but just looking at how bulky a 65" is and the risk of something breaking while I try to open it up this is a good alternative. Thanks!
post #874 of 3303
it is pretty simple to remove the back

I wish we could verify somehow how these fans are connected. Could be just a regular PC fan connected to a 3 pin


I think i am just going to buy the filters and put them on .. just because i can see a year or two down the road the fans inside the tv pulling in dust
Edited by CSIG1001 - 5/22/13 at 5:11pm
post #875 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIG1001 View Post

it is pretty simple to remove the back

I wish we could verify somehow how these fans are connected. Could be just a regular PC fan connected to a 3 pin

Have a look on AVforums. Someone has already done it. No, its a non-standard connector.
post #876 of 3303
N
Quote:
Originally Posted by daferret View Post

Cool, looks like something I can do pretty easily. However, will the magnet mess up the screen over time or even the components underneath the metal back? I actually thought about rpelacing the fans too, but just looking at how bulky a 65" is and the risk of something breaking while I try to open it up this is a good alternative. Thanks!
. There is nothing behind that part and the magnets are weak and tiny , just enough to hold it one without moving , seems like the perfect amount , no way they reach the screen or anything
post #877 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrenheit View Post

Have a look on AVforums. Someone has already done it. No, its a non-standard connector.
Link me up
post #878 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonThomasDesigns View Post

Link me up

http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasma-tvs/1775475-panasonic-vt65-fan-noise.html
Edited by fahrenheit - 5/22/13 at 8:44pm
post #879 of 3303
Most of these fan and buzzing "issues" are probably the result of room acoustics. By placing a $30 dollar panel behind my TV I was able to 100% remove the buzzing usually heard on an all white screen.
post #880 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stump909 View Post

Most of these fan and buzzing "issues" are probably the result of room acoustics. By placing a $30 dollar panel behind my TV I was able to 100% remove the buzzing usually heard on an all white screen.

Are you talking about a. Wallmount?
post #881 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIG1001 View Post

Are you talking about a. Wallmount?

Sorry should have been more specific. I meant acoustic panels. Sams club offers a 4 pack for $120. There's not very good (compared to "pro" brands), but for certain solutions they're effective.
post #882 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stump909 View Post

Sorry should have been more specific. I meant acoustic panels. Sams club offers a 4 pack for $120. There's not very good (compared to "pro" brands), but for certain solutions they're effective.
Gotcha .. I just realized my set on custom default settings while watching cable tv that the tv got hot in the back and i believe the fans spun up louder. On thx modes it does not exhibit this issue . Maybe its just me
post #883 of 3303
I am Currently using these along with fan filters i mentioned earlier

Acoustic Foam 1-1/2" x 12" x 12" 2 Pieces

There are only $13 for 2 , So $ 26 for 4 panels .. They seems to have helped as well

Used command strips to attach to wall


Edited by JonThomasDesigns - 5/23/13 at 10:09am
post #884 of 3303
This is day #1 with my 65VT60. Put in the break-in slides - running fine. BUT...I gotta tell you after 30 minutes I was totally bored watching these color slides. I don't think I can do this for 100 hours, let alone D-Nice's latest standard of 300 hours. How do you people do it? wink.gif
post #885 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgooter View Post

This is day #1 with my 65VT60. Put in the break-in slides - running fine. BUT...I gotta tell you after 30 minutes I was totally bored watching these color slides. I don't think I can do this for 100 hours, let alone D-Nice's latest standard of 300 hours. How do you people do it? wink.gif
I stopped after a day .. Because the settings arent out and thx bright and cinema out of the box is incredible. Motion handling was way better then the F8500 on bluray and hi def tv ..unless you plan on calibrating i would stop
post #886 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIG1001 View Post

I stopped after a day .. Because the settings arent out and thx bright and cinema out of the box is incredible. Motion handling was way better then the F8500 on bluray and hi def tv ..unless you plan on calibrating i would stop
I'm getting mine on Tuesday and I'll probably run slides over night but when I'm at home I plan on watching full screen movies. I bought the tv, I want to use it. I've read that most people wont notice the quality change from day 1 "d-nice" or "cnet" calibration vs what it looks like at 100 or 300 hours. If it was going to be a substantial difference, sure I would run that stuff for the full time non-stop. Are there any pictures that truly show a "before I ran slides" and an "after I ran slides" with the same settings? I don't doubt it probably looks better but to what degree and for the general user is it even noticeable.
post #887 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgooter View Post

This is day #1 with my 65VT60. Put in the break-in slides - running fine. BUT...I gotta tell you after 30 minutes I was totally bored watching these color slides. I don't think I can do this for 100 hours, let alone D-Nice's latest standard of 300 hours. How do you people do it? wink.gif

Don't sit and watch it?
post #888 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

I'm getting mine on Tuesday and I'll probably run slides over night but when I'm at home I plan on watching full screen movies. I bought the tv, I want to use it. I've read that most people wont notice the quality change from day 1 "d-nice" or "cnet" calibration vs what it looks like at 100 or 300 hours. If it was going to be a substantial difference, sure I would run that stuff for the full time non-stop. Are there any pictures that truly show a "before I ran slides" and an "after I ran slides" with the same settings? I don't doubt it probably looks better but to what degree and for the general user is it even noticeable.

No there is no before and after pictures just recommendations from forum calibrators because the tv prep the panel faster. Not sure if this locks settings better but either way just watch the set and when you get 300hours get your isf calibration for day and night. I figure sometime in novemebr
post #889 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgooter View Post

This is day #1 with my 65VT60. Put in the break-in slides - running fine. BUT...I gotta tell you after 30 minutes I was totally bored watching these color slides. I don't think I can do this for 100 hours, let alone D-Nice's latest standard of 300 hours. How do you people do it? wink.gif
If you don't watch for the full 100 hours it's not going to work. eek.gifsmile.gifwink.gif

D-Nice hasn't changed post number one where he defines the 100 hour procedure. He has said that it would be best to wait at least 300 hours before having a professional calibration done on the ST60. As far as I know, he hasn't said anything about the VT60, but he might have at the shootout. If he did, then that would also be in connection with a professional calibration and wouldn't be related to what you watched for those 300 hours. smile.gif
post #890 of 3303
So are his settings just a temp until the "break in period" is over to get an ISF calibration, which in turn changes up all his settings? Or are his good enough to run with full time even if you never plan on getting an ISF calibration, such as myself?
post #891 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

So are his settings just a temp until the "break in period" is over to get an ISF calibration, which in turn changes up all his settings? Or are his good enough to run with full time even if you never plan on getting an ISF calibration, such as myself?

I think you may have missed something in Dnice's posts. one set of settings are for the slides (break in) the other are for AFTER break in..
post #892 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIG1001 View Post

No there is no before and after pictures just recommendations from forum calibrators because the tv prep the panel faster. Not sure if this locks settings better but either way just watch the set and when you get 300hours get your isf calibration for day and night. I figure sometime in novemebr

All i know and understand is these sets need 300 plus hours because will drift again. I plan on getting isf calibrated for day and night sometime in november . Plus i found a bug with the slide show that i know will jack up your tv on the VT60. Not sure about the other sets. But when i run the slides on the right side sometimes the phosphors do not come on. They come on with any other viewing but the slide show. Look closely because the screen is off centered by a few centimeters. Its very odd ..
post #893 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by garnettrules21 View Post

So are his settings just a temp until the "break in period" is over to get an ISF calibration, which in turn changes up all his settings? Or are his good enough to run with full time even if you never plan on getting an ISF calibration, such as myself?

D-Nice gets the television, runs the slides for 150 hours, then calibrates the set to isf standards, & then he posts his findings. That's pretty much it. The problem arises when others think if they do the same(minus the actual calibration), they'll have a calibrated set. Will it be close, probably? Maybe. I followed D-Nice's set up to the T. I then did a full calibration & it was close, but not within spec. If I didn't plan on getting the set calibrated & I'm not a critical viewer would it be good enough? Absolutely. IMO.
post #894 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

If you don't watch for the full 100 hours it's not going to work. eek.gifsmile.gifwink.gif

D-Nice hasn't changed post number one where he defines the 100 hour procedure. He has said that it would be best to wait at least 300 hours before having a professional calibration done on the ST60. As far as I know, he hasn't said anything about the VT60, but he might have at the shootout. If he did, then that would also be in connection with a professional calibration and wouldn't be related to what you watched for those 300 hours. smile.gif

I have been wondering if he was going to do that, I did read where he said that at the shoot-out but in looking at the first post in this thread, it still says 100 hours.. I wonder if he will update the post and also post his new cal report..
post #895 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heywould View Post

I have been wondering if he was going to do that, I did read where he said that at the shoot-out but in looking at the first post in this thread, it still says 100 hours.. I wonder if he will update the post and also post his new cal report..
He hasnt changed it however its now recommended 300 hours before a pro is calibration
post #896 of 3303
Does the drifting slow down considerably after 300 hours...or is it still drifting kind of briskly?
post #897 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Does the drifting slow down considerably after 300 hours...or is it still drifting kind of briskly?
At 1500 hours they recommend another calibration . So it slows down
post #898 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Does the drifting slow down considerably after 300 hours...or is it still drifting kind of briskly?

My guess would be no one really knows yet
post #899 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Does the drifting slow down considerably after 300 hours...or is it still drifting kind of briskly?

My guess would be no one really knows yet
That's what I conclude too. The only reliable information that I personally know about it what D-Nice has been quoted saying about his ST60.
post #900 of 3303
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

That's what I conclude too. The only reliable information that I personally know about it what D-Nice has been quoted saying about his ST60.

That concerns me a little bit. I don't mind having it re-calibrated every 9-12 months, but if the drift is so significant that it becomes hard to keep this set calibrated optimally to where it needs to be done every few months...that is an issue for me. Hopefully not the case though.
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