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Sonotube with 12" Driver, New to Diy - Page 3

post #61 of 69
Thread Starter 
I'm officially confused.

Are we talking rms or maximum?

I believe they are 125 rms nominal and I have no clue whether jl suggested 250 as a maximum rms or maximum peak.

I was under the assumption winisd modeled using maximum power?

The 600 watts was a bench test in a video I posted in the thread awhile back. Perhaps 600 was optimistic but they certianly seemed intent on attempted destruction of the driver with far more wattage than it should ever receive.
Edited by Mik James - 4/25/13 at 1:40pm
post #62 of 69
Thread Starter 
Okay I think I get it now. Maximum spl is based off of the maximum power, effeciency, heat etc right?

It is maximum power that's being modeled though, not rms power right?

Also if someone could point me towards a winisd guide that covers this stuff in detail I would very much appreciate it.
Edited by Mik James - 4/25/13 at 4:46pm
post #63 of 69
Thread Starter 
Well it looks like ported 1.8 cu ft would be nearly useless in comparison to a sealed, at best giving 2db gain with the same power input.

At least with sealed i'll be able to tell when the the driver's doing to much due to excursion rather than seeing smoke flowing from the port.

So i guess i'll get started on the build, thanks for all the help and feel free to throw in any last minute design advice smile.gif
post #64 of 69
Thread Starter 
Just out of curiosity has anyone had success with 6th order bandpass in a small box?

4th order modeled pretty well for me compared to sealed and ported but I couldn't get any extra boost down low out of 6th order.
post #65 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik James View Post

Just out of curiosity has anyone had success with 6th order bandpass in a small box?
You can get a better result with a 6th order but not from a smaller box. There's no such thing as a free lunch, if you want to go lower you must go larger.
post #66 of 69
Thread Starter 
Cool, now i can stop tinkering with 6th order bandpass in a small box. 4th order does seem tempting due to natural low pass and hi pass, limited delay and distortion, and a few db gain at 30 hz compared to sealed but i can only imagine the difficulty of sealing the baffle inside the tube.
post #67 of 69
Thread Starter 
Well I didn't hear a clank when testing the driver today, although it did sound a little more distorted than the vegas on startup and likely moved close to an inch on power off tongue.gif

I've been looking into diy spiderless passive radiators recently and i can't seem to find any performance gain from various radiators in 1.8-3 cubic ft tubes?

Are passive radiators more for drivers with low excursion and high power handling?
post #68 of 69
Thread Starter 
I haven't had much interest in the build lately due to cost to performance ratio but i've figured out a way to add a little extra volume to the tube without using a bigger tube (which I can't seem to find around here).

I have a bunch of thick walled pvc lying around and I figure it would be neat to create a stand out of it opening into the bottom plate of the tube and a second bottom plate sealing of the pvc piping.

I was thinking of using 4 3" diameter by 4" length pvc pipes to make up the 4 legged stand.

2 questions come to mind:

1) What effect if any will the enclosure change from the fiber tube to the pipes have on effective volume due to possible compression?

2) Is it possible to veneer pvc piping?
post #69 of 69
Thread Starter 
Just a quick update, I lost interest in the build/wasn't able to make use of the right tools for the job.
On the other hand I learned more than I would have imagined from the planning process and I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me out with this project.

I am currently planning a small set of pvc full range's, possibly with a multi directional design. Hopefully I will have better luck starting with smaller speakers and it looks like it will be a lifelong hobby for me.

Thanks again smile.gif
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