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Samsung UNXXF6400 Thread - Page 8

post #211 of 798
Anthonymoody I live in Australia so we do not have f7100 in 75" we only have the f6400 or f8000 in 75" and to get the 75f8000 samsung want $3400aud. Is there a $3400 Difference between the two?
post #212 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewright27 View Post

The way I understand it is that flashlighting is the light from the corners inward that look like flashlight beams, caused by the "edge-lit" configuration of the LED backlights (which is why it isn't a problem with full array/direct-lit LEDs). Clouding is the random shapeless masses of light that can appear anywhere on the screen. Therefore, clouding may be caused by a variety of things, like pressure, while flashlighting may just be an inherent con to edge-lit LEDs?

So I understand the concept of "rubbing out" clouding...but does it work with flashlighting as well?
Good point
Only way to know is to try it
post #213 of 798
Few things...

SMO: those settings are definitely the Day settings from Buzz. Maybe the Night settings would be better in your environment. I usually leave some bias lighting on at night (at my wife's insistence smile.gif) so the room isn't pitch black. When I do turn off the lights I agree that the picture can be a little too bright at times with the Day settings.

Clouding vs flashlightng: clouding is indeed random, anywhere on the screen type stuff. Flashlightng starts at the edge, usually in the corners, and spreads from there. You can sometimes rub out clouding but typically not flashlighting. That said, some have tried loosening screws behind corners to relieve pressure in an attempt to reduce flashlighting. I did that last night in the lower left on my set. Of course my mind thinks it made a difference but who knows? smile.gif

6400 v 8000 and the $3400 difference: here in the US it's actually an even bigger price differential - $4000 (!) which means you could buy two (!!) 75" 6400s for the price of one 8000. Yikes. Marty it sucks that there is no 7100 down under (I wonder if you could import one somehow...) but IMO it wasn't worth the $1500 difference to step up to the 7100, so it's definitely not worth it (to me!) to pay an even higher difference to get to the 8000.

That said, I only compared the 46" 6400 to the 7100, not to the 8000. So I can't say whether or not the 8000 is that much better where it might justify the greater price premium. My understanding is that the primary differences once you get from 7100 to 8000 have to do with lighting trickery with ridiculous fake refresh rates and the like. And perhaps "even better" local dimming capability than the 7100.

Don't get me wrong - there was definitely an improvement to the black levels in the black bars on 2.35:1 content when comparing the 6400 to the 7100. It simply wasn't a $1500 difference for my eyes or wallet.

Marty maybe there is a shop you can visit to compare them side by side at a smaller size, and then decide whether the difference is worthwhile for you..?
post #214 of 798
Annoying thing happened after the firmware update. I kept getting 'reminder' type messages that made it clear that the TV thought it ought to be controlling my cable STB. And that is something I do not want.

At first glance the update appeared to have preserved my settings. CEC/ARC Anynet was Off, and my picture settings were correct it seemed.

Took me a while to look through every single setting but I found two things had actually been changed. First, it had switched to Standard from Movie (all the rest of the picture settings were in tact however). Second, the audio had been set to use the TVs speakers rather than external speakers. That somehow leads the TV to want to control the cable box. Ugh.

Anyway I went back to Movie and External speakers and all is working again as it should.
post #215 of 798
GRRR. Turns out those settings did not get things back to normal.

This is the message I get:

Check the device is connected properly, then try turning on the device by selecting the button below.

(Then there is a big STB button I can select with the Samsung remote - and it would turn my cable box on or off - or an OK button to clear the screen). After some time (30 sec?) it disappears.

It seems to happen whenever I change sources such that there is a break in the hdmi chain or within a source eg PS3 that breaks the hdmi handshake when you do things like go into Netflix. It's like the Samsung doesn't see anything through the HDMI connection and prompts you to turn something (like the stb) on. Then, it eventually realizes there is in fact a signal and the message goes away.

To be clear, firmware 1104 did NOT behave this way. I have 3 sources (cable, PS3, ATV) all connected via hdmi to my late model Onkyo receiver, which goes to the Samsung via HDMI into HDMI 1.

Help please. Thanks.

EDIT: Think I figured it out. I went into the Universal Remote set up and for some reason my cable box was there. I deleted it, so now basically the TV thinks there is nothing connected to it, and so it's no longer hunting for an hdmi signal. Everything now works as it should, no more annoying pop ups.

Boy do I miss the days when TVs were TVs and not computers. I appreciate the ability to update firmware, but only if it's actually an upgrade and doesn't fark up existing functionality.
Edited by anthonymoody - 6/20/13 at 9:42am
post #216 of 798
Guys tech is coming in an hour to switch out the panel....I can't make up my mind leave as is or change it out? As of right now no clouding, flashlighting but noticeable vertical banding on light backgrounds which is quite distracting and irritating...
help...plss

What do you think????
post #217 of 798
Wow that's a tough one. Maybe see if the guy would take $20 to let you compare and change back if you prefer the original?
post #218 of 798
idk what to do...I think if I don't like the replacement then he's gonna have to switch to the original...Anthony you have no vertical banding issues with your 75"?
Im going to try to take a pic or video
post #219 of 798
Not really no. I get some dse on light backgrounds during faster pans but not nearly enough to be a bother (for me). The only real issue mine has is the flash lighting in the lower left corner. Since even that is it that bad, and the set otherwise so good, it's a keeper for me.
post #220 of 798
we'll I don't want to push my luck...what I mean is they take old one out and the new one has worse issues.....oh boy..
post #221 of 798
tired taking a video faintly shows up..
post #222 of 798
I was looking at the F6800, but it seems to be the same TV as this one, just in a cooler case. (Chrome. Ooh.) So should I just get this one, because I don't see any differences picture or feature wise?

Also, I've heard the off angle viewing is bad on these. How bad is it because I'm not a video nerd or anything, so if it's one of those nitpicky things all these TV reviewers love to point out then I don't even care.
post #223 of 798
Yeah, this is set for Buzz's day settings (Which are drop dead gorgeous, btw). Anyway, the flashlighting honestly does not really bother me that much. I only notice it in the darkest of scenes. I can probably live with it, but was just curious if it's something that I should raising a concern with Amazon over. It's a little frustrating to have it be there, but not the end of the world, I suppose.
post #224 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by blklightning View Post

I was looking at the F6800, but it seems to be the same TV as this one, just in a cooler case. (Chrome. Ooh.) So should I just get this one, because I don't see any differences picture or feature wise?

Also, I've heard the off angle viewing is bad on these. How bad is it because I'm not a video nerd or anything, so if it's one of those nitpicky things all these TV reviewers love to point out then I don't even care.

I can only speak for myself, but I think it honestly depends on how much you are going to be viewing at an angle. Let me put it like this. I have the 75" and sit about 9 feet away. When I am in the middle of my couch, it's awesome. When I am on the far left or right of my couch I can see color loss on mono-color screens (like Netflix's big red load up screen), but nothing during a normal scene. I am not too picky either though.
post #225 of 798
Yeah, I don't think it will bother me because I don't ever watch TV from an angle because that really annoys me for some reason. Think I'll go with one of these since they seem like the best value for the dollar. Was going to get a Vizio, but Walmart sells them so they can't be very good.
post #226 of 798
I'm 11' from my 75" and all the seats on our couch are fine IMO.
post #227 of 798
SMO how did it go?
post #228 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by blklightning View Post

Yeah, I don't think it will bother me because I don't ever watch TV from an angle because that really annoys me for some reason. Think I'll go with one of these since they seem like the best value for the dollar. Was going to get a Vizio, but Walmart sells them so they can't be very good.[/q

Ironic statement: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Samsung-UN75F6400AFXZA-75-1080p-480Hz-Class-LED-2.2-ultra-slim-3D-HDTV/23876492
post #229 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonymoody View Post

SMO how did it go?
Well Anthony I decided to swap out the panels since thats the only recourse that I have. The newer panel is not perfect but a little better than the original. Lots of clouding but took care of that by rubbing the screen uniformly while it was off. Still has vertical banding issues, not as bad as the oem one; still not acceptable. Called samsung for a refund after the new panel was installed and they insisted that this can be fixed and can not issue a refund at this time.
So I have to go through this bs all over again...very bad customer service...
Have to deal with corporate puppets with rehearsed scripts...and this was the highest you could go!!
Not happy
post #230 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMO5007 View Post

Well Anthony I decided to swap out the panels since thats the only recourse that I have. The newer panel is not perfect but a little better than the original. Lots of clouding but took care of that by rubbing the screen uniformly while it was off. Still has vertical banding issues, not as bad as the oem one; still not acceptable. Called samsung for a refund after the new panel was installed and they insisted that this can be fixed and can not issue a refund at this time.
So I have to go through this bs all over again...very bad customer service...
Have to deal with corporate puppets with rehearsed scripts...and this was the highest you could go!!
Not happy

Wow man really sorry to hear. From what I gather from poking around Samsung threads over the years, maybe after X number of panel swaps they will eventually offer you a refund. Also, can't recall but where did you buy it? Maybe they can help you out?
post #231 of 798
@ Joseph Pearson - interesting that the Walmart price is so much higher than everywhere else àt this point. Wonder why.
post #232 of 798
Hi, I want to buy a 40" TV for my bedroom, at first I saw the 40F6400 but then I find a 40EH6030 with a difference of almost $140 dollars. I want to use it with my PS3 and with my laptop to watch videos.

I only care about the 120hz and the PQ, do you think the F6400 worth the difference??
post #233 of 798
Hi guys, im new here, i need some help

i just bought UN40F6400, and I use it 100% for gaming with x360,

the issue is, i play a lot of FIFA, and I use Movie Mode, i like the PQ, but i get some lag,

then I tried GAME MODE, but it gets real ugly in a fast scene (pass or goal kick), then I tried PC Mode, it was OK, the ghosts were gone, but the PQ sucks,

is there a way to reduce these "ghosts" in the fast scenes in game mode?

Thanks a lot!!
post #234 of 798
I don't game but I know that these sets are similar in many ways to the 7100 and 8000. You may want to post n those owners threads to see what settings gamers there are using...
post #235 of 798
Just grabbed the 50F6400 and WOW!!!! lost my 50 panny plasma in a breakup, and so I've been rocking a 32" westinghouse LCD from 2007 rolleyes.gif I forgot how outstanding TV can look. BTW Buzz's Day settings are GREAT!!!
post #236 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luciano Gaube View Post

Hi guys, im new here, i need some help

i just bought UN40F6400, and I use it 100% for gaming with x360,

the issue is, i play a lot of FIFA, and I use Movie Mode, i like the PQ, but i get some lag,

then I tried GAME MODE, but it gets real ugly in a fast scene (pass or goal kick), then I tried PC Mode, it was OK, the ghosts were gone, but the PQ sucks,

is there a way to reduce these "ghosts" in the fast scenes in game mode?

Thanks a lot!!

Well once I found out how to set the input to PC mode I was able to tinker with the settings to make this mode match my calibrated movie setting.

Here are the settings for the PC mode that I found using my Movie setting I got while using the Disney WOW calibration disc as a baseline.

Picture Mode: Standard
Backlight: 18
Contrast: 96
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50
White Balance: All set to 25 except both Reds which are set to 20
Gamma -1
Color Tone: Standard
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Sound Mode: Movie

Hope this helps.
post #237 of 798
Hello. I'll be on my third un46f6300 today. Hopefully third time's the charm. First one had wifi issues, second one has significant light bleed when screen should be black. Bleed through is on the entire screen, not just certain areas. If I decrease the backlight level to reduce/eliminate this bleed through, then overall picture is too dark. Ironically, the first panel had perfect blacks with backlight level of 16.

My question, with respect to this, is the panel on the f6400 identical. It's very annoying to watch a 16:9 movie ((bluray source) when the black bars uptop are not black.

Thanks!
post #238 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsolo View Post

Hello. I'll be on my third un46f6300 today. Hopefully third time's the charm. First one had wifi issues, second one has significant light bleed when screen should be black. Bleed through is on the entire screen, not just certain areas. If I decrease the backlight level to reduce/eliminate this bleed through, then overall picture is too dark. Ironically, the first panel had perfect blacks with backlight level of 16.

My question, with respect to this, is the panel on the f6400 identical. It's very annoying to watch a 16:9 movie ((bluray source) when the black bars uptop are not black.

Thanks!

I believe the 6400 has micro dimming, so that should help a little with the black levels.
post #239 of 798
Thats one of the reasons I love my F6400. The panel is noticeably more uniform than the ES6500 I bought last year. I hated watching letterbox/pillarbox on it because of what you mentioned.

Whether its Micro Dimming or not, black bars on the F6400 are uniform. I can see minor flashlighting in two corners on an all-black screen when I turn the brightness up all the way (which I would never do when actually watching TV), but not on 16:9 content ever, and regardless of settings there is NO clouding. Cranking up the backlight reveals no bleed at all unless I also turn brightness way up past 50.

I don't know if the panels are identical, but it sounds like you've had bad luck with the 6300...so you might as well return it and try the 6400. I personally like Micro Dimming, and even if the panel is as bad as what you've experienced so far, Micro Dimming hides it. If you don't like it, just turn the brightness up a click or two and it effectively turns it off.
post #240 of 798
@ewright27, The bleed through is relatively consistent across the whole screen. It's not like the letter boxes are not uniform. They are, but uniformly NOT black black in color, more like a very dark grey, just enough to be visible, especially with the lights off in the room. I only see a hint of flashlight on very bright/white backgrounds, other than that it's pretty good. Backlight set at 16 and brightness at 46.

I got the place I bought it from to PM amazon's price of $750 indirectly. They charged me full price for the 6300 ($850+tax), but got the 4 year warranty for nothing - I'll also get $100 back from the credit card after a price match, so net $830 or so with a 4 yr onsite warranty.

Amazon has the 6400 at $1000, so if I buy it from the same place, after taxes and warranty, i'll probably be at $1300. That's quite a steep price increase. No price matches as $1K seems to be the going price for this model right now (unless I'm missing something). Even if I buy it from amazon with the free shipping/no tax, that's still $175 more. Is the $175 more worth it.....? I doubt i'll use the 3d. Other than that, different remote and microdimming....

The nice thing about this place is their extended warranty is through them, and they are very reputable as far as service goes. If i buy it from amazon, after the first year (2 if you consider the warranty provided by the credit card), i'm pretty much on my own. I'm not a big fan of extended warranties, but do see value in them for certain items. My current pc monitor a dell 30" (wfc3007 or something) is going on 6 years. It's not perfect, but still works well (2560x1600).

I don't know what to do. I think I'll give it a few days, watch a few movies, then decide. With a change to a screen like this, there's probably some adjustment period too (for the user that is). As you can tell, i'm a bit ocd about my toys (bet this applies to many folks on here), but if i'm spending serious coin, I want to get the best I can.
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