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Samsung UNXXF6400 Thread - Page 20

post #571 of 798
Hello everyone,
First time poster & had my 50" F6400 a little over two months.

The recent FW update has corrected a banding/jittering error I had with smooth motion. It was especially noticeable while watching my Star Trek into Darkness BD. When I brought my LED home and set it up I didn't have this issue as this was the first BD I used to test the PQ and make sure my Yamaha AV was properly connected to the flat screen. Suddenly a month later the banding and ghost imaging appeared during a specific scene in the film. The only way I could correct the problem was set smooth motion to Clear in picture settings.

After the recent firmware update I adjusted the smooth motion to standard and so far I haven't experienced the weird banding or distortion while watching Netflix and Amazon prime. Out of curiosity I gave Star Trek into Darkness a spin on the Sony BD player and sure enough it was gone while watching with Smooth Motion set to standard. And that ghost imaging that appeared while the shuttle departed from Starfleet headquarters was gone, fingers crossed the entire first 30 minutes of the movie smile.gif

I suspected it might have been a result of an earlier firmware upgrade which is why I keep the auto update off. Recent updates have indeed improved my wifi connection with hardly any dropouts while watching video apps like Netflix, Amazon and Crunchyroll.

This a great thread and found it to be very insightful when I was troubleshooting the banding issue. Thanks everyone for all your invaluable input.

Has anyone else noticed any improvements? Please share and thanks again!
post #572 of 798
Can you adjust your picture setting while streaming (such as when you're watching Amazon) because I can't.
I can change the mode from 'Movie' to 'Standard' or any of the other mode settings, but that is about it.
I can't change anything else in the picture settings.
Is there a way to change this so I can adjust it?
post #573 of 798
Ok,

My new TV is doing something strange. It just started this today for no real reason.
Every time there is a commercial, the screen back light turns way down. If I hit the menu key, it brightens back up until the next commercial.

WTF?eek.gif Every google search I can find where people describe this, it is either the eco sensor (which is off on mine) or a bad inverter board.

I haven't changed a thing in the settings and it has been running for a week now.

EDIT: Just for the hell of it, I updated the firmware and now it is normal again. I wonder if a full power down and reboot would have solved it...
Edited by CheezWiz - 12/4/13 at 7:32pm
post #574 of 798
I can confirm after latest firmware picture quality is even better. Love it.
post #575 of 798
hi all , I joining the group of xxf6400 today with my new 65" , have all firmware up to date etc. , have a problem tho ,

when I screen mirror my Samsung galaxy s4 to my TV it connects and I have sound etc. ,, but just a black image on the TV no picture , anyone run into this by chance and know of a fix ?
post #576 of 798
error popup your tv is set to use external speakers adjust the volume on the connect speakers directly


when in youtube or any smart app on the tv , I get this error ,

after researching it a bit it seems that the tv cannot control device volums that are connected via optical cable


is there a way around this , I have all my devices added linked ect , the smart remote works great to control my receiver volume , however it wont control my onkyo reciver volume when I am using any of the apps on the tv .


I have all my devices going to my reciver , then receiver to my tv via hdmi monitor out


on the tv I have optical out to my receiver input so sound from tv goes through the reciver ,..



any input ?
post #577 of 798
also I see my timezone is set to easter , where I am central standard time , I am unable to change my time zome it is greyed out and just says option unavailable ,

I tried changing clock mode to manual but same results .,...


also any other forums that are linked to the 6400 series TV's , just looking for more info ...
post #578 of 798
Hi Extreme,
Welcome to the family.
I just went through this with my onkyo.
Ditch the optical and use ARC so long as your onkyo has it. Mine is the TX-NR616. You MUST use HDMI 2 on the TV it will say ARC on it.
post #579 of 798
thank you so much for the reply was looking for another forum as its pretty quiet in here , but I have the onkyo txnr 609 I was lookin into the arc (audio return channel) , I was thinking it was the headphone jack style that plugs into the back of the TV's "audio out" but I think I have it wrong now..

not sure if my 609 has arc feature trying to research it here , on the back online all I can see it 5 hdmi inputs and 1 output

, but to be clear on this, would it be setup like this....

all devices to the receiver via there connections (my case all hdmi)

then reviever monitor out via hdmi to the tv hdmi input

then from hdmi#2 on the tv output back to my onkyo receiver ? , (this will do audio out like my optical does only in a different manner ) ?

if above is correct ,
post #580 of 798
ok reading this a bit arc lets the hdmi tv to send audio back to receivers hdmi output.


so for this to work just wondering what input on the receiver I would have to be on ? smile.gif
post #581 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme View Post

ok reading this a bit arc lets the hdmi tv to send audio back to receivers hdmi output.


so for this to work just wondering what input on the receiver I would have to be on ? smile.gif

Hi Extreme, select "TV/CD input. But you'll need to set the Onkyo 609 to use ARC by going into HDMI Control menu and set it to "On" which will set ARC to "Auto".
post #582 of 798
Ok great, truly appreciate the help will give it a try later when I get back home

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 2
post #583 of 798
You have to use the HDMI port labeled for ARC on the Samsung. The beauty of ARC is that only one HDMI cable is needed from the HDMI output on the Onkyo to the HDMI input on the Samsung labeled for ARC. On my TV that is HDMI2.

My Onkyo will automatically switch to the TV/CD input when I launch a smart TV app.
Just to make things easier and quicker, I mapped the HDMI input from my TiVo (my primary source for TV) to the TV/CD channel on the Onkyo and renamed TV/CD to TiVo.
post #584 of 798
arc here have you been hiding all my life ! , I've had a smart tv for years and always used optical out I thought arc was to do with anynet turning devices on and off ect , never really looked into , this is soo sweet and yes my receiver auto turns into the tv/cd mode when it needs it , and when I close smart hub it changes back to my normal input , drool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks sooo much guys , this is great ,

anyway to get rid of the annoying anynet osd on the tv ?
post #585 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme View Post


anyway to get rid of the annoying anynet osd on the tv ?

Wondering the same. I also hate how quickly this TV pops up the dead input box that you have to use the TV remote to get rid of... That is why I moved my TiVo to the TV/CD channel on the Onkyo. Since that is my most often used input and it switches back faster between smarthub and TV. When I had the TiVo mapped to another channel, I got that damn box every time I went out of smart mode.

Also, I am having an issue on the ARC channel... Every once in a while when watching netflix or Vudu, the audio glitches. Like drops out for a split second. I am trying to track that issue down and determine if it is the TV, Onkyo, or Cable causing the issue. Pandora plays flawlessly.... mad.gif

I have a Roku that works fine, but the Netflix and Vudu apps in the TV support 3d! The Roku does not. I would like to ditch the Roku and just use the TV but the audio drops are very bad sometimes.
Edited by CheezWiz - 12/7/13 at 2:13pm
post #586 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheezWiz View Post

You have to use the HDMI port labeled for ARC on the Samsung. The beauty of ARC is that only one HDMI cable is needed from the HDMI output on the Onkyo to the HDMI input on the Samsung labeled for ARC. On my TV that is HDMI2.

My Onkyo will automatically switch to the TV/CD input when I launch a smart TV app.
Just to make things easier and quicker, I mapped the HDMI input from my TiVo (my primary source for TV) to the TV/CD channel on the Onkyo and renamed TV/CD to TiVo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CheezWiz View Post

Wondering the same. I also hate how quickly this TV pops up the dead input box that you have to use the TV remote to get rid of... That is why I moved my TiVo to the TV/CD channel on the Onkyo. Since that is my most often used input and it switches back faster between smarthub and TV. When I had the TiVo mapped to another channel, I got that damn box every time I went out of smart mode.

Also, I am having an issue on the ARC channel... Every once in a while when watching netflix or Vudu, the audio glitches. Like drops out for a split second. I am trying to track that issue down and determine if it is the TV, Onkyo, or Cable causing the issue. Pandora plays flawlessly.... mad.gif

I have a Roku that works fine, but the Netflix and Vudu apps in the TV support 3d! The Roku does not. I would like to ditch the Roku and just use the TV but the audio drops are very bad sometimes.



I mighjt be blind as I was going to move my digital cable box to the TV/CD hdmi input on the back of my 609 but I don't seem to have an hdmi labeled that , and it was greyed out in the menue of the receiver I just hjave hdmi 1.2.3.4.5

frown.gif
post #587 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme View Post

I mighjt be blind as I was going to move my digital cable box to the TV/CD hdmi input on the back of my 609 but I don't seem to have an hdmi labeled that , and it was greyed out in the menue of the receiver I just hjave hdmi 1.2.3.4.5 frown.gif

You don't move the cable box to another HDMI input.

First turn off HDMI Control then just go into Input/Output Assign menu. Under HDMI Input menu, assign TV/CD to HDMI-3 (that's if you have the cable box plugged into HDMI-3 CBL/SAT) and go back and turn on HDMI Control.
post #588 of 798
all working great now , love the arc feature on this tv all working great now , aside from the anynet on screen display thingy , thanks all.
post #589 of 798
Samsung UNXXF6400 Smart TV

I followed the procedure to setup the Universal Remote feature. I have a Cox Cable Hi Def STB DCH3200. It works fine when I turn on the TV and the cable box turns on also, as it should. However, when I turn the TV off the Cable Box does NOT turn off as it should, therefore when I turn the TV back on then it turns the cable box off, so I have to manually turn on the cable box pressing the STB button. I have re-done the setup a couple of times but the issue has not been resolved. Could this be a software issue that can be fixed by a software update?
post #590 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

You don't move the cable box to another HDMI input.

First turn off HDMI Control then just go into Input/Output Assign menu. Under HDMI Input menu, assign TV/CD to HDMI-3 (that's if you have the cable box plugged into HDMI-3 CBL/SAT) and go back and turn on HDMI Control.

this was all working but now the tv is changing the input on my receiver , I have the above set all correct but when I turn on the tv it turns on receiver but it changes my receiver to the tv/cd mode and I don't get sound from my cable box , I have to manually hit the button on my receiver remote and go back to the cbl/sat mode.

what would setting in the tv would cause it to change to the wrong mode ? ,

I have tried to set tv/cd to hdmi3 as well as cb/sat to hdmi 3 with same results.
post #591 of 798

My F6400 now has the option to upgrade to Firmware 1118, has anyone already tried it? I don't know if I should or shouldn't update, could someone please enlighten me on this? Thanks.

post #592 of 798
Just updated to 1118. Everything is fine. Not sure what the upgrade did except the moving between smart menu area is smoother. Can anyone tell us what this 1118 upgrade changed?
Thanks
post #593 of 798

AV newbie here, anyone know if I can connect regular headphones to the un55f6400? I dont think I saw an input for it.

post #594 of 798
Yep its called Audio Out if you're referring to small phone size headset. For the large male plug you will need an adapter.
One issue with this is that you can't control the volume. Its set at a loud volume. I use my Bose headset all the time.
Edited by IPPredators - 12/11/13 at 8:35am
post #595 of 798
Here's my calibration settings/readings from my UN50F6400FXZA (ND01 Panel) and ColorMunki Display (w/ WLED Spectral Sample). Oh and if the graphs below look horrible, that's because they are 100pt measures and I zoomed in on them.


Movie Mode
Backlight:  0-20
Contrast:   95
Brightness: 47
Sharpness: 0
Color*:     50
Tint:       50/50
---
Picture Size: Screen Fit
---
Dyn. Contrast: Off
Black Tone:    Off
Flesh Tone:    0
Color Space: Custom
  Red:     R46 G0  B0
  Green:   R18 G47 B14
  Blue:    R0  G27 B52
  Yellow:  R52 G48 B15
  Cyan:    R0  G49 B49
  Magenta: R49 G25 B50
White Balance:
  R-Offset:  25
  G-Offset:  25
  B-Offset:  25
  R-Offset:  45
  G-Offset:  49
  B-Offset:  33
10p White Balance: On
  Interval 1:  -1  -1  -1
  Interval 2:   0  +1   0
  Interval 3:   0  +1   0
  Interval 4:  +3  +3  +2
  Interval 5:  +1  +1  +1
  Interval 6:  -2  -2  -2
  Interval 7:  -3  -3  -3
  Interval 8:  -4  -4  -4
  Interval 9:  -3  -3  -3
  Interval10:  -5  -5  -6
Gamma**: -1 or -2
---
Color Tone:         Warm2
Digital Clean View:   Off
MPEG Noise Filter:   Off
HDMI Black Level¹:  Low for Video, Normal for PC/Games
Film Mode²:        Auto1
Auto Motion Plus³:  Off


*I think the correct value for Color is actually 47 but that means I would have to Redo the CMS calibration
**-1 = 2.22, -2 = 2.33
¹Normal = 0-255, Low = 16-235
²Auto1 does 3:2 pull-down correctly
³If you turn this on, Set it to Custom & change Judder Reduction to 0








PC Mode
Backlight:  0-20
Contrast:   98
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50
---
Picture Size: 16x9
---
White Balance:
  R-Offset:  25
  G-Offset:  25
  B-Offset:  25
  R-Offset:  46
  G-Offset:  49
  B-Offset:  33
Gamma**: -1 or -2
---
Color Tone:         Warm2
HDMI Black Level¹:  Low for Video, Normal for PC/Games


**-1 = 2.22, -2 = 2.35
¹Normal = 0-255, Low = 16-235
To access PC mode, you need to change the HDMI port name to PC from the Input Menu
Note: PC Mode has low input lag; about 30ms. Game Mode is about 43ms and Movie Mode is 130+ms







post #596 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan 77 View Post

My F6400 now has the option to upgrade to Firmware 1118, has anyone already tried it? I don't know if I should or shouldn't update, could someone please enlighten me on this? Thanks.

I am seeing that too, but the Samsung site does not list it... That bothers me a bit..
post #597 of 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheezWiz View Post

I am seeing that too, but the Samsung site does not list it... That bothers me a bit..

As a new owner of a UN55F6300, I downloaded the 1118 firmware update last night and noticed that it messed up my Youtube app.Youtube now takes much longer to load (approx. 1 minute) and now requires a login each time I use it. If you are running a stable 1117 firmware, I would wait a while for more user feedback before downloading 1118.
post #598 of 798

Thanks for the intel, my YouTube app is already slow without Firmware 1118, I'll wait until someone gives us a more detailed explanation of what does the new update does. 

 

PS. If the menu is smoother with it, I'd be happy because the previous Firmware make it faster, so even more would be great. 

post #599 of 798

I can't screen mirror any device or update my firmware. 

 

I got my TV with v1116 but every time I tried to update it I got the "801 Timeout" error. I then went to Samsung's website and downloaded 1117.4 and installed that (even though it only shows up as 1117 on the TV). Now I try and update again to 1118 and still I get the "801 Timeout" error. On wireless when 1118 get's to 59% downloaded I get the 801 error and on wired connection I get the error immediately. 

 

Even after updating to 1117 I still can't screen mirror anything which is what I want to mainly do nor can I download firmware.

post #600 of 798
I tested my Netflix on 1118 and it took 16 seconds to load and that included the extra 1 second since I have 2 profiles. Are you using wireless to access the internet? I have mine hard wired from my AT&T cable box. I'm getting 12 MB/sec compared to about half that on the wireless since I have 5 wireless devices on my network.
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