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Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 40

post #1171 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbyrockets View Post

Nice shot...

Beautiful. What settings are you using?
post #1172 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

One of the many side effects of visiting the forums, youll start to ook for issues you never saw before and they will start to dirve you nuts biggrin.gif
ABL, nevar! Poor blacks, a non-uniform screen, and DSE? Most definitely. ;D
post #1173 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Denniswrly View Post

1) i am a 65vt50 owner and wanna stay Panny..But the thinking the trouble of vt60 owners is to much and ZT is it worth extra $$$$ or keep my tv.i owned a Mits Rearprojection from 2001-2012 just wondering if i fall in the class of vt or zt or f8500 cause i loved the PQ of my old tv...Help ur thoughts please
2) Are most kuro owners looking at panny or Sammy just sayin.cause everyone is looking at kuro as standard..Ty
You can not loose with any of the three you mentioned. The VT60 will have very, very close, if not as good Kuro blacks. Hard to talk about the ZT60, as it is not out yet........
post #1174 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

You can not loose with any of the three you mentioned. The VT60 will have very, very close, if not as good Kuro blacks. Hard to talk about the ZT60, as it is not out yet........
on the vt60 like 2012 65vt50 dse dither bands etc is that better on vt60 as im watching hockey and see like i call dirty screen affect.But i watch litlle hockey but bright screeen u see on vt50...
post #1175 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrXo View Post

I've always assumed the "pulsing" sound being described is a beat frequency between the two fans (since they have slightly different rotation speeds).

I can hear that sort of beat frequency on my fans, but they are quiet enough.

I think the root problem is the heat. People are reporting that their units are too hot to touch. Mine never gets anywhere near that hot. I get a low stream of lukewarm air coming out of mine.

I suppose I could measure it. Maybe I'll do that, in the interest of science. smile.gif

For me, I don't think it was fan interaction....it was all coming from the larger fan in the upper right corner (if facing the panel). If you covered that, the fan noise was pretty much negated. If you covered the other fan, the pulsing/whirling was still there at full strength. And FWIW, the area immediately under the noisy fan was hot....hotter than the area underneath the other fan. However, that might be by design -- and hence, the bigger fan on that side?
post #1176 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by majik29 View Post

For me, I don't think it was fan interaction....it was all coming from the larger fan in the upper right corner (if facing the panel). If you covered that, the fan noise was pretty much negated. If you covered the other fan, the pulsing/whirling was still there at full strength. And FWIW, the area immediately under the noisy fan was hot....hotter than the area underneath the other fan. However, that might be by design -- and hence, the bigger fan on that side?
Yeah the right side is MUCH hotter ..I used command strips to put 2 acoustic panels behind the TV .. One on each side .. I would say it made it um more manageable but not a fix at all ...Have you tried anything that works ? Has anyone tried tightening the fan ? I can't get to it because its mounted .. I'm trying to figure out what else I can do
post #1177 of 14006
Quick question if I may...if the ST60 lag proves to be too much then I may find myself deciding between a VT50 and saving for a VT60. Can anyone who has seen them both tell me just how much difference there really is between them? Figure I'd end up ponying up 500 or so more for the VT60...I have a room that is not able to get totally pitch dark, but I do want some nice deep "blend into the bezel" blacks. Is the 3D pretty much good on both sets?

Sorry for the small thread derail. I'll keep it brief.
post #1178 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni009 View Post

Quick question if I may...if the ST60 lag proves to be too much then I may find myself deciding between a VT50 and saving for a VT60. Can anyone who has seen them both tell me just how much difference there really is between them? Figure I'd end up ponying up 500 or so more for the VT60...I have a room that is not able to get totally pitch dark, but I do want some nice deep "blend into the bezel" blacks. Is the 3D pretty much good on both sets?

Sorry for the small thread derail. I'll keep it brief.

Someone will certainly be able to provide you with the subjective comparison in PQ you're looking for, so I'm going to mention a different point that has nothing to do with picture quality: You're concerned about your ST60 lag, which means you're a gamer. So you're going to run your VT?? in Game mode. There's something critical you should know about the VT50 (and all the 2012 Panasonics) in that case: Game mode on the XX50 series enables forced dynamic contrast. You can turn it down by selecting the "graphics" content mode, but not disable it. Aside from increasing the brightness of a dark scene (it looks like the game has HDR enabled even if it doesn't), it crushes blacks. The VT60 can enable the low-latency game mode without forcing any unwanted processing, and still allows you to do full calibration (you can enable "game mode" in any picture mode, including one that's been fully calibrated).
post #1179 of 14006
I did not know that part about the VT50 and its game mode. That info helps. I just game in cinema on my S1 and it still has a very quick response and decent PQ. I stay away from game mode preset. Thanks man.
post #1180 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irwin M Fletche View Post

Question:
For those who set the format to Full, do you set the screen settings -> overscan to On?
Or do you prefer using the Just format ?
The reason I ask is that if you set it to Full, it cuts a small amount of real estate from the display, whereas Just will use the entire display (it just orients the display more around the center of the screen). These formats are new to me, I'm coming from a Samsung, and I'm looking for your thoughts, thanks in advance

anyone?
post #1181 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irwin M Fletche View Post

anyone?
I have it on Full with Overscan off. Based on the WoW blu-ray disk it cuts off the least amount of the original picture, as far as I can tell. But I didn't go through all the options available on the TV.
post #1182 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbvis View Post

FWIW I watched the Pens/Isles game in my bedroom on a 25" old tube tv and the "flashes and pops" were horrendous at that venue. Drove my eyes buggy. I'm watching Rangers/Caps right now from The Garden. It's there, but not as often, and I'm noticing it only on the main siderink camera, not the low angle and behind net views. I have a 2009 50g10 in the family room and it never really bothered me till I read about. Now I can't not see it. But it's there even on an old tube tv.

Good to know. I watched some of the Rangers/Caps last night and the pops were still there, but not as frequent as the Pens game. I'm chalking it up to the strobe lights going nuts. They were interviewing a player and I could see them going off CONSTANTLY in the background and the game hadn't even started yet.

I also dialed in the CNET settings. Pretty big difference in image quality. Watching Deadwood and some scenes were so incredibly black, I've never seen anything like it.
post #1183 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by degobah77 View Post

Good to know. I watched some of the Rangers/Caps last night and the pops were still there, but not as frequent as the Pens game. I'm chalking it up to the strobe lights going nuts. They were interviewing a player and I could see them going off CONSTANTLY in the background and the game hadn't even started yet.

I also dialed in the CNET settings. Pretty big difference in image quality. Watching Deadwood and some scenes were so incredibly black, I've never seen anything like it.

Wait till DNice's setting they will be better than the CNET ones and some other folks will have some great diy cal settings also
post #1184 of 14006
speaking of d-nice. Anyone past the 300 hr recommended break in period put a meter to their display yet?
post #1185 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by subgenius37 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irwin M Fletche View Post

anyone?
I have it on Full with Overscan off. Based on the WoW blu-ray disk it cuts off the least amount of the original picture, as far as I can tell. But I didn't go through all the options available on the TV.

every now and again you'll get a bad channel on cable that has thin garbled line or an old dvd that seems to have a thin black line all around it...for those situations you'd want to turn overscan back on...otherwise off is the way to go for most purposes.
post #1186 of 14006
Can anyone explain why in Cnet's review of the VT60, in the Geek Box chart; motion resolution (dejudder off) is only 700 lines. Whereas, the VT50 and ST60 score 900 and 800 lines respectively?
post #1187 of 14006
Speaking of Cnet, I dialed in their recommended settings and, while most of them make the picture quality look much better, I was curious why they opted for the screen size of JUST rather than FULL. JUST made the content look smooshed, at least it did with the Comcast HD stuff I watched. Am I missing something?
post #1188 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by evil_mike View Post

Speaking of Cnet, I dialed in their recommended settings and, while most of them make the picture quality look much better, I was curious why they opted for the screen size of JUST rather than FULL. JUST made the content look smooshed, at least it did with the Comcast HD stuff I watched. Am I missing something?

Ooops....guess they missed it. You know that can't be right.
post #1189 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Ooops....guess they missed it. You know that can't be right.

I believe they are shipped that way but yes definitely a miss.
post #1190 of 14006
THX Cinema with contrast dialed back to 50 from the preset of 60.

No other changes at present.

The more I use this set the more beautiful the picture gets. None of the presets on my old VT50 were even remotely watchable.

The out of the box picture on this set just blows my mind.

So far the only issue I've had is these damn fans, they are definitely louder than the VT50's were.

If they kept a steady pace they wouldn't be that big of a problem, its the modulating sound they make that really makes them stand out, up down up down.
post #1191 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

speaking of d-nice. Anyone past the 300 hr recommended break in period put a meter to their display yet?

How do you check the runtime on these, do you have to go into the service menu?
post #1192 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbyrockets View Post

THX Cinema with contrast dialed back to 50 from the preset of 60.

No other changes at present.

The more I use this set the more beautiful the picture gets. None of the presets on my old VT50 were even remotely watchable.

The out of the box picture on this set just blows my mind.

So far the only issue I've had is these damn fans, they are definitely louder than the VT50's were.

If they kept a steady pace they wouldn't be that big of a problem, its the modulating sound they make that really makes them stand out, up down up down.

Tell me about it I have 4 sheets of sound foam between my wall and VT60 ...
post #1193 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by degobah77 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

speaking of d-nice. Anyone past the 300 hr recommended break in period put a meter to their display yet?

How do you check the runtime on these, do you have to go into the service menu?

I don't know the procedure for checking this model's and I wouldn't want you to try the old procedure in case its slightly different and leads to you possibly changing another setting in the service menu.
post #1194 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by degobah77 View Post

How do you check the runtime on these, do you have to go into the service menu?
Do not deviate from the instructions, as you could do something unintended.

Press and hold the {VOL -} button ON THE PLASMA TV.
Then press the {INFO} button on the remote control 3 times.

"Start Adjustment Menu" message will be displayed followed
by the Service Menu after few seconds.

ADJUST {Picture Adjustment}
WB-ADJUST {White Balance Adjustment}
OPTION {Option Setting}
V-SUS {V-SUS Adjustment}
AGING
SRV-TOOL {Service Tool}
{1} & {2} buttons move through options

Press the {2} button once to select "SRV-TOOL".

Then press the {OK} button to access it.

Using the cursor keys, highlight the right side
of the last item "PTCT :00.00.00.00.00" :





Then press and hold the {MUTE} button for 3 seconds.

Time and Count will be displayed in red color:



__TIME = Hours : Minutes of operation.
COUNT = Times the Plasma was powered on.

To exit, unplug the power cable.
post #1195 of 14006
Ok, thanks, but I'll wait until someone else verifies it before me smile.gif

Definitely not a fan of having to power down the TV so ungracefully just to exit this menu.
post #1196 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by evil_mike View Post

Speaking of Cnet, I dialed in their recommended settings and, while most of them make the picture quality look much better, I was curious why they opted for the screen size of JUST rather than FULL. JUST made the content look smooshed, at least it did with the Comcast HD stuff I watched. Am I missing something?
FWIW: If the screen size setting of JUST is the same thing as Just Scan, then it = zero overscan. If yes, then JUST will display video images in their original size without cutting off the edges. In some cases, you might see thin scanning lines (noise) along the edges of the screen.
post #1197 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by degobah77 View Post

Ok, thanks, but I'll wait until someone else verifies it before me smile.gif

Definitely not a fan of having to power down the TV so ungracefully just to exit this menu.
I've gone through those steps twice, tried to exit the menu both times, and ultimately unplugged the set, both times with no ill effect.
post #1198 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irwin M Fletche View Post

I've gone through those steps twice, tried to exit the menu both times, and ultimately unplugged the set, both times with no ill effect.
There is a way to get out of the service menu without unplugging it but I cant remember how. Perhaps someone else will post it eventually.
post #1199 of 14006
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

There is a way to get out of the service menu without unplugging it but I cant remember how. Perhaps someone else will post it eventually.
I found a article online, which indicates pressing the "R" button on the remote will exit the service menu, but I've not tried it myself.
post #1200 of 14006
Well, Lady's and Gents it's "D" day Shootout time...May the best in your opinion wins!!!. As there all winners in someone eye. smile.gif
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