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Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 187

post #5581 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You can not do accurate color work without a spectro or a colorimeter profiled to a spectro, greyscale yes but in order to accurately dial in a set with CMS you need a spectro or an accurate profile. I have tried both routes including autocal on my VT50 and in my personal experience Chad's cal was signifcantly better.Just my two cents

I am with you but if you go around reading the plasma calibration with a stock id3 and spectro including the Jeti you would be happy to know that its pretty damn close. There is more things than simple numbers and that is where a calibrator like Chad will have that advantage over autocalc.
post #5582 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by richlo View Post

I am with you but if you go around reading the plasma calibration with a stock id3 and spectro including the Jeti you would be happy to know that its pretty damn close. There is more things than simple numbers and that is where a calibrator like Chad will have that advantage over autocalc.

While I do agree that a professional still has merit and should be the preferred method I'm not sure I agree with your statement that it is more than simple numbers. All these meters we use to measure accuracy is all about numbers and if we didn't have those none of this would mean anything. At that point you would just be calibrating by eye and I wouldn't trust anyone's eyes over an accurate measurement tool.
post #5583 of 14003
I wasn't arguing that, a I1d3 profiled of an i1pro or something similar will yield professional grade measurements But as you indicated the experience of calibrators like Chad or DNice is harder to replicate
post #5584 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

You can not do accurate color work without a spectro or a colorimeter profiled to a spectro, greyscale yes but in order to accurately dial in a set with CMS you need a spectro or an accurate profile. I have tried both routes including autocal on my VT50 and in my personal experience Chad's cal was signifcantly better.Just my two cents

FWIW, the SpectraCal Rental Kit with the C6 is, according to their website, lab verified before and after sending out the equipment. I think what you say might be more applicable to those who may already own personal meters that may or may not be still correct. I've heard most calibration tools can drift over time and I could definitely see that being a problem. SpectraCal has an in house Minolta CS-2000 ($30K unit) they use as a reference to calibrate all their meters. I would have to ask if that is what they use to verify their kits are still valid or not, but I imagine so because I'm not sure how else you could.
post #5585 of 14003
I thought there were dedicated Panasonic settings and calibrations threads? Seems those would be the best place for calibration talk.
post #5586 of 14003
In that case you may be correct, I am not trying to discredit or discourage diy efforts at all, all I am saying that in my experience I was unable to achieve professional level results with autocal and a I1d3. As long as you are willing to put in the hours to learn I am sure you will be successful. What I would like to dispel is the myth that you can just buy a cheaper colorimeter invest in calman and thru the exclusive use of autocal that you can achieve reference level results, that is simply not true and I speak from experience having tried that myself.
post #5587 of 14003
Just got off the phone with John from Paul's and he gladly helped me with my purchase of a 60VT60. I did not purchase a warranty just yet but to my understanding this can be done within the first 30 days with Squaretrade. He did say he would call back if they could give me a better price on the 5 year warranty and even though the price won't be the same he did assure me I can still get one from them within 30days of my purchase.

So I know most have gone with STrade in here so I'm wondering how
You went about it..I am a Costco member btw. And I know they are on Amazon. After purchasing the warranty I have to take a picture of receipt and register the item??!! I know it's in here somewhere but wouldn't mind the help in the meantime
post #5588 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

Just got off the phone with John from Paul's and he gladly helped me with my purchase of a 60VT60. I did not purchase a warranty just yet but to my understanding this can be done within the first 30 days with Squaretrade. He did say he would call back if they could give me a better price on the 5 year warranty and even though the price won't be the same he did assure me I can still get one from them within 30days of my purchase.

So I know most have gone with STrade in here so I'm wondering how
You went about it..I am a Costco member btw. And I know they are on Amazon. After purchasing the warranty I have to take a picture of receipt and register the item??!! I know it's in here somewhere but wouldn't mind the help in the meantime

I purchased my 5 year sqtrade warranty off of Amazon so I am going off of that. After my order confirmation I got an email asking me to register on Squaretrade. I did and then waited for the TV to arrive. Once the TV arrived I logged in to my strade account and filled in the info of my tv (Model #, SN, etc...). Last step is to forward them a copy of your receipt. I forwarded my Amazon receipt and got a confirmation that I was all set, so make sure that Pauls emails you an electronic receipt which will make things easier for you with squaretrade. Otherwise you'll have to scan or fax the receipt in and who wants to deal with that?
post #5589 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateTTU View Post

FWIW, the SpectraCal Rental Kit with the C6 is, according to their website, lab verified before and after sending out the equipment. I think what you say might be more applicable to those who may already own personal meters that may or may not be still correct. I've heard most calibration tools can drift over time and I could definitely see that being a problem. SpectraCal has an in house Minolta CS-2000 ($30K unit) they use as a reference to calibrate all their meters. I would have to ask if that is what they use to verify their kits are still valid or not, but I imagine so because I'm not sure how else you could.

I've had bad experiences with colorimeters that were "enhanced". First experience was with a C5e. It was advertised much like the C6 is, claiming that it was profiled off their CS-2000 for different display types.
It was so far off from the recently certified i1Pro I had at the time that I sent it back. They determined it was not defective, recertified it and sent it back, and it still disagreed by about 5 dE.
Then I got a C6 and the Jeti 1211 at the same time... I thought the C6 would be reasonably close, but no. Again about 5 dE worth of difference between them.
post #5590 of 14003
Rock n Roll Chad! smile.gif
post #5591 of 14003
Chad can you give us a little insight on the stock id3 and the jeti spectro. Although i know a spectro is better but how much better when it comes to a plasma.
post #5592 of 14003
My apologies all if this has been discussed before. Several searches turned up no information. I just took delivery of a new TCP-55VT60. Have any of you noticed problems or issues when trying to control the aspect ratio with the format button on the remote. When I launch the Netflix or Youtube built in apps the format button ceases to function. Of course you end of with those dreaded black bars on the top, bottom or sides of the screen. My Roku scales the content fine with no issues. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
post #5593 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by richlo View Post

Chad can you give us a little insight on the stock id3 and the jeti spectro. Although i know a spectro is better but how much better when it comes to a plasma.

Try the calibration thread....
post #5594 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by gwrace View Post

My apologies all if this has been discussed before. Several searches turned up no information. I just took delivery of a new TCP-55VT60. Have any of you noticed problems or issues when trying to control the aspect ratio with the format button on the remote. When I launch the Netflix or Youtube built in apps the format button ceases to function. Of course you end of with those dreaded black bars on the top, bottom or sides of the screen. My Roku scales the content fine with no issues. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

If my memory is correct, i don't think netflix AR can be changed.
post #5595 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by DasRetroKid View Post

I purchased my 5 year sqtrade warranty off of Amazon so I am going off of that. After my order confirmation I got an email asking me to register on Squaretrade. I did and then waited for the TV to arrive. Once the TV arrived I logged in to my strade account and filled in the info of my tv (Model #, SN, etc...). Last step is to forward them a copy of your receipt. I forwarded my Amazon receipt and got a confirmation that I was all set, so make sure that Pauls emails you an electronic receipt which will make things easier for you with squaretrade. Otherwise you'll have to scan or fax the receipt in and who wants to deal with that?

It confuses me a little becasue the TV is originally over 2K BUT with Pauls it's under 2K so would you choose the warranty for the original price or sales price?
post #5596 of 14003
Once I get the set I will post my experience
post #5597 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by gwrace View Post

My apologies all if this has been discussed before. Several searches turned up no information. I just took delivery of a new TCP-55VT60. Have any of you noticed problems or issues when trying to control the aspect ratio with the format button on the remote. When I launch the Netflix or Youtube built in apps the format button ceases to function. Of course you end of with those dreaded black bars on the top, bottom or sides of the screen. My Roku scales the content fine with no issues. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd stick to the Roku for the first 100 since you know it scales properly. Me personally I'm not even touching any of the apps on the VT60 until well after the break in period since I don't know in what AR those apps content will be displayed.

The less you see those black bars in the first 100 the better biggrin.gif
post #5598 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by gwrace View Post

My apologies all if this has been discussed before. Several searches turned up no information. I just took delivery of a new TCP-55VT60. Have any of you noticed problems or issues when trying to control the aspect ratio with the format button on the remote. When I launch the Netflix or Youtube built in apps the format button ceases to function. Of course you end of with those dreaded black bars on the top, bottom or sides of the screen. My Roku scales the content fine with no issues. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Normal. Format does not work with the apps.
post #5599 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

It confuses me a little becasue the TV is originally over 2K BUT with Pauls it's under 2K so would you choose the warranty for the original price or sales price?
You choose coverage for the amount that you paid (minus tax and/or shipping), not the SRP.
post #5600 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

You choose coverage for the amount that you paid (minus tax and/or shipping), not the SRP.
+1 My understanding is you pay for the amount of coverage regardless of the cost of the item. If you want $10,000 worth of coverage on a $200 tv they will let you. But its gonna cost ya and it will only cover the $200 tv.
post #5601 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by DasRetroKid View Post

I'd stick to the Roku for the first 100 since you know it scales properly. Me personally I'm not even touching any of the apps on the VT60 until well after the break in period since I don't know in what AR those apps content will be displayed.

The less you see those black bars in the first 100 the better biggrin.gif

I was thinking about this yesterday... Is the point of avoiding the black bar'ed content so that those pixels are "aged" as long as the others initially?

Why would it really matter because if you watch movies, over time those pixels are always going to be "younger" compared to the rest.
post #5602 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by datap1mp View Post

I was thinking about this yesterday... Is the point of avoiding the black bar'ed content so that those pixels are "aged" as long as the others initially?

Why would it really matter because if you watch movies, over time those pixels are always going to be "younger" compared to the rest.
Yes. You dont want them to be younger. You want them to age evenly.
post #5603 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Yes. You dont want them to be younger. You want them to age evenly.

But over time they will never be the same...
post #5604 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by datap1mp View Post

But over time they will never be the same...
The aging process is much faster in the first 500 hours or so. Then it tends to slow down. They dont age at a constant rate from the first hour.
post #5605 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by datap1mp View Post

I was thinking about this yesterday... Is the point of avoiding the black bar'ed content so that those pixels are "aged" as long as the others initially?

Why would it really matter because if you watch movies, over time those pixels are always going to be "younger" compared to the rest.

Bond already answered but just to add: During the first 100 hours or so of a Plasmas life the phosphors tend to "burn hotter" if you will which is why it is so important to age everything evenly during the initial break in period.

I know it's hard to just run slides or watch full screen content for the first 100 (I was in the middle of watching ST:TNG on Blu and had to stop) but if you spent this much on a tv then you might as well do it right.
post #5606 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by datap1mp View Post

I was thinking about this yesterday... Is the point of avoiding the black bar'ed content so that those pixels are "aged" as long as the others initially?

Why would it really matter because if you watch movies, over time those pixels are always going to be "younger" compared to the rest.
Yes. You dont want them to be younger. You want them to age evenly.

Funny thing would be a pixel jogger that only excites the 2 bar areas and keeping the middle of the screen black biggrin.gif
post #5607 of 14003
Okay, just picked up the TC-P60VT60 by price matching Paul's at amazon to get the 24 month financing. Is there a link or good post in here to basic stuff to know for when they deliver it and for the "break-in period". There's 187 pages in this thread and somebody has to know where the good information is. Thanks.
post #5608 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

Okay, just picked up the TC-P60VT60 by price matching Paul's at amazon to get the 24 month financing. Is there a link or good post in here to basic stuff to know for when they deliver it and for the "break-in period". There's 187 pages in this thread and somebody has to know where the good information is. Thanks.

I'm no expert, but I'll share my experience. My reading suggested that recent plasmas don't really need to be burned or broken in at all, but in the interest of "only get one chance at this", I followed the procedure suggested by D-Nice for 200 hours before calibration by ChadB. I had another TV working here at the time, so it was not an issue . Having said that, after break-in, I subsequently applied D-Nice's settings, and the subsequent ISF calibration, as I believe D-Nice hizownself says is likely, yielded substantially superior results. I am not sure if Evangelo's slides would have yielded any different results.

It seems like a prudent, although possibly unnecessary, exercise to illuminate a PDP with monocolor slides of varying hues and colors for the first 200 hours: it seems to me this would more gradually and completely "age" the phosphors. It cost me nothing, and I won't have to wonder in the future if I should have done it.

D-Nice's procedures are here, and Evangelo's slides are here. Information about plasma burn-/break-in/aging/whatever is here.

I will say that D-Nice's settings puzzled me a bit regarding setting some controls wide open during the initial session, but he has probably forgotten more than I know about PDP's, so I followed instructions without adverse effects. My intuition would have been to start at a low contrast and brightness, then gradually increase those settings while displaying a balanced selection of slides for say, 200-400 hours. It is not, however, as I said, like I am an expert.
Edited by wsanford - 10/17/13 at 3:45pm
post #5609 of 14003

Could you tell me does vt60 in European Union have mosquito reduction parameter function and does colour banding (incorrect tones of colour) is visible? I want buy it now.

post #5610 of 14003
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post


It confuses me a little becasue the TV is originally over 2K BUT with Pauls it's under 2K so would you choose the warranty for the original price or sales price?
Use the invoice price, but go ahead and call the warranty company if it makes you more comfortable. smile.gif
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