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Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 191

post #5701 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcb View Post

How are y'all, setting up for motion? With my VT50 I had to use my Yamaha amp to convert from 1080I to 1080P, and use weak motion smoother to
not have judder on my U-verse baseball.
This VT60, however, seems fine if I use either the Yamaha or the motions smoother weak, but doesn't seem to need both.
Any comments?

Quote:
Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post

I would have your box set to output at native and receiver just used as a pass through. This means the set is doing the de interlacing - which based on my experience, the pro who calibrated it (DNice) and how well this set as tested in this area that is the right choice. Confident someone will have a different viewpoint smile.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by fcb View Post

How are y'all, setting up for motion? With my VT50 I had to use my Yamaha amp to convert from 1080I to 1080P, and use weak motion smoother to
not have judder on my U-verse baseball.
This VT60, however, seems fine if I use either the Yamaha or the motions smoother weak, but doesn't seem to need both.
Any comments?

Quote:
Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post

I would have your box set to output at native and receiver just used as a pass through. This means the set is doing the de interlacing - which based on my experience, the pro who calibrated it (DNice) and how well this set as tested in this area that is the right choice. Confident someone will have a different viewpoint smile.gif



I'm a hair trigger away from ordering the 65VT60 to replace last years 65ST50 for the above mentioned reasons.

The ST/GT/VT 50 series from last year had very mediocre scaling, de-interlacing and video processing for 1080i and 720p sources that i basically stopped watching regular tv on my ST50 (soft pic overall and minor judder) and just go the other room to catch it on my 3 year old sammy plasma. Even D-Nice commented on it when he calibrated it so I know it wasn't just me. Blu ray 1080p is jaw dropping so that makes up for it somehow.

I recently bought a Tivo Roamio and was astounded at the PQ improvement when I let it do the scaling. I recently added the Oppo 103 darbee to the mix to handle the video processing and that made it even better. Unfortunately, I started encountering HDMI handshake issues between the Oppo and the Tivo where I lose the connection when I flip up and down the channels and I have to reboot the Oppo every time to regain it. I'm returning the Oppo (before you ask- I have tried a number of different high speed HDMI cables) because of this.

Is the VT60 worth the upgrade just for this? By all accounts Panasonic went with their own internal video processor recently (hence all these issues) which I hear has improved quite a bit this year. I know it's no match for Samsung's superior overall video processing but I haven't been able to see by how much since I can't find any display VT60s in my city's brick and mortar stores to play with.

I know there are owners who've upgraded from last years models so I'm asking- taking the black level improvements out of the equation is it worth the upgrade just for these reasons?
post #5702 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post




I'm a hair trigger away from ordering the 65VT60 to replace last years 65ST50 for the above mentioned reasons.

The ST/GT/VT 50 series from last year had very mediocre scaling, de-interlacing and video processing for 1080i and 720p sources that i basically stopped watching regular tv on my ST50 (soft pic overall and minor judder) and just go the other room to catch it on my 3 year old sammy plasma. Even D-Nice commented on it when he calibrated it so I know it wasn't just me. Blu ray 1080p is jaw dropping so that makes up for it somehow.

I recently bought a Tivo Roamio and was astounded at the PQ improvement when I let it do the scaling. I recently added the Oppo 103 darbee to the mix to handle the video processing and that made it even better. Unfortunately, I started encountering HDMI handshake issues between the Oppo and the Tivo where I lose the connection when I flip up and down the channels and I have to reboot the Oppo every time to regain it. I'm returning the Oppo (before you ask- I have tried a number of different high speed HDMI cables) because of this.

Is the VT60 worth the upgrade just for this? By all accounts Panasonic went with their own internal video processor recently (hence all these issues) which I hear has improved quite a bit this year. I know it's no match for Samsung's superior overall video processing but I haven't been able to see by how much since I can't find any display VT60s in my city's brick and mortar stores to play with.

I know there are owners who've upgraded from last years models so I'm asking- taking the black level improvements out of the equation is it worth the upgrade just for these reasons?
i went from 65vt50 to 65vt60 and a D-Nice cal..And O HELL YA!!!!! smile.gif
post #5703 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

There is no reason to go into the service menu to get the hours. Menu > Help > Version > Status4. The number after the letter represents the hours. That value increments every 60 minutes of on time. (I wonder what will happen beyond C9999?)

Larry
There has been some question as to the accuracy of those hours. They seem to be close but not exact. And dependent on firmware upgrades or something. Has that all been straightened out?
post #5704 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

There is no reason to go into the service menu to get the hours. Menu > Help > Version > Status4. The number after the letter represents the hours. That value increments every 60 minutes of on time. (I wonder what will happen beyond C9999?)

Larry
There has been some question as to the accuracy of those hours. They seem to be close but not exact. And dependent on firmware upgrades or something. Has that all been straightened out?

This seems to be a much easier way to verify in the limited time that the delivery guy will be there.
post #5705 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

^^^ That covers all the physical issues, make sure she powers on to the on-board-menu and check out the overall PQ for issues ( Which are rare ).
Of course duh lol jk...yea I figured if the physical is in nice shape then so should the rest of the panel...the two links that were posted in here as "nightmares" were more
The consumers lack of action to check
What he had purchaed but for the mos part those who posted in here as well as the "deals" thread have had mint sets delivered to them by Pauls and some said they even have a check list they bring in to make sure you cover all these areas. I hope I get those nice delivery guys
post #5706 of 14005
Odd question, what makes my 65vt60 more than fifty pounds heavier than the samsung 64f8500? Could the front glass be that much heavier? Just curious. Thanks.
post #5707 of 14005
Another question, I plan on buying a new emotive amp soon. Is it now a fact that the 65vt60 will definitely make the amp "hum" if plugged into the same outlet?? Thanks.
post #5708 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVKIK View Post

Another question, I plan on buying a new emotive amp soon. Is it now a fact that the 65vt60 will definitely make the amp "hum" if plugged into the same outlet?? Thanks.

The post you are referring to is the only time I have seen anyone have that issue and given the fix for it I suspect that the display had nothing to do with the hum. I have my VT plugged into the same outlet as my Denon 4311 receiver and no issues/hum from day one. I use a basic surge protector, nothing fancy.

I would also check the weights on Panasonic's or Samsung's website. Some of those posted around the web are not accurate. If the spread is that much and we use weight in the same manner as those buying a receiver or amp then the heavier display would have to be vastly superior to the lighter one smile.gif
post #5709 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVKIK View Post

Another question, I plan on buying a new emotive amp soon. Is it now a fact that the 65vt60 will definitely make the amp "hum" if plugged into the same outlet?? Thanks.

If you're going to spend the $ on the Emotive (Emotiva?) amp, get a power conditioner also. This would likely remove any hum.
post #5710 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Lines of pixels. Nothing to worry about. smile.gif

Blue, Red, Green, Blue, RGBRGBRGBRG.... RGBRGBRG, Blue, Red, Green

Blue on the left and Green on the right.

The pixel lines on a panel can start at any color and end with any color. Use a magnifying glass to look at the pixel structure. A white screen will have all the pixels lighted.

Larry

I have this green line as well. Super annoying. I had to return my first panel because it died. This is my second VT60. I have looked closely at this column of pixels and it's not because green is the last pixel. For some reason the Green portion of this last column of pixels turns on much stronger than it should and it tints the whole line.

Does anyone have a legit explanation? Or am I going to have to return this TV as well? Why did this set cost so much again?
post #5711 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcannon0317 View Post

Not sure if this is too late, but I price matched Paul's TV at my local BB on this past Friday. I went to the BB website first and looked up their price match retailers and Paul's was definitely there.

Can you link to the location on the BB website it states that they will price match Paul's TV. The link below is the list I found on their site (you will have to copy and paste it since the link won't connect directly). I purchased my 65VT60 from BB and the manager said the only people getting price matched from Paul's are local to the store. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated as I am nearing the end of my return window. Thanks.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/TV-Video/Televisions/pcmcat290300050001.c?id=pcmcat290300050001

"Amazon.com, Apple.com, Bhphotovideo.com, Crutchfield.com, Dell.com, Frys.com, hhgregg.com, HP.com, HomeDepot.com, Lowes.com, Newegg.com, OfficeDepot.com, OfficeMax.com, Rakuten.com Shopping, Sears.com, Staples.com, Target.com, TigerDirect.com and Walmart.com"
post #5712 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

There has been some question as to the accuracy of those hours. They seem to be close but not exact. And dependent on firmware upgrades or something. Has that all been straightened out?
Close enough. smile.gif
post #5713 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhambengal View Post

Can you link to the location on the BB website it states that they will price match Paul's TV. The link below is the list I found on their site (you will have to copy and paste it since the link won't connect directly). I purchased my 65VT60 from BB and the manager said the only people getting price matched from Paul's are local to the store. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated as I am nearing the end of my return window. Thanks.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/TV-Video/Televisions/pcmcat290300050001.c?id=pcmcat290300050001

"Amazon.com, Apple.com, Bhphotovideo.com, Crutchfield.com, Dell.com, Frys.com, hhgregg.com, HP.com, HomeDepot.com, Lowes.com, Newegg.com, OfficeDepot.com, OfficeMax.com, Rakuten.com Shopping, Sears.com, Staples.com, Target.com, TigerDirect.com and Walmart.com"
That's ultimately left up to the discretion of the store manager. Just threaten a return if you really must have it for that price.
post #5714 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVKIK View Post

Odd question, what makes my 65vt60 more than fifty pounds heavier than the samsung 64f8500? Could the front glass be that much heavier? Just curious. Thanks.

I think you're looking at the shipping weight. The sets themselves are relatively similar, between 75 and 80lbs.
post #5715 of 14005
I too
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post

The post you are referring to is the only time I have seen anyone have that issue and given the fix for it I suspect that the display had nothing to do with the hum. I have my VT plugged into the same outlet as my Denon 4311 receiver and no issues/hum from day one. I use a basic surge protector, nothing fancy.

I would also check the weights on Panasonic's or Samsung's website. Some of those posted around the web are not accurate. If the spread is that much and we use weight in the same manner as those buying a receiver or amp then the heavier display would have to be vastly superior to the lighter one smile.gif
I too use my denon 4802R receiver with no issues, but he said his separate amp hums not his receiver. So i wonder if it has to do with the wattage or maybe the power the amp and tv are using at the same time from the same Outlet? Thanks.
post #5716 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

There has been some question as to the accuracy of those hours. They seem to be close but not exact. And dependent on firmware upgrades or something. Has that all been straightened out?

Not sure, but seems very close. It says I am at 790 which is what I have been estimating since getting my set.
post #5717 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Not required but safe. Any full screen source without fixed images is safe.
D-Nice has recommended at least three hundred hours to stabilize the panel before you have it professionally calibrated.
That's the best way to get the most out of your display.
The respected calibrators that are active at AVS do tours. You can use the links at the bottom of my post for location and references.

D-Nice, Chad B, and UMR probably do tours in your area. You might even be in D-Nice's local area. For price and tour information contact the calibrators directly by email.

You can also get general tour information from turbe.

Is it recommended to run the slides 24 hrs per day for the first 100 hours, or only a max number of hours per day? Same for the content without fixed images for the next 200 hrs? I do watch a lot of ESPN and NFL Football. I want to get through the 300 hours asap without damaging the plasma

Thanks for your help!
post #5718 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcannon0317 View Post

Is it recommended to run the slides 24 hrs per day for the first 100 hours, or only a max number of hours per day? Same for the content without fixed images for the next 200 hrs? I do watch a lot of ESPN and NFL Football. I want to get through the 300 hours asap without damaging the plasma

Thanks for your help!

I did for frist 300 hours, as long as you have good ventilation and controlled temps in the room shouldnt be a problem. Just check the tv every once in a while my screen never got hot to the touch. Ran constantly in my living room with fan on and AC set to 74.
post #5719 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Not sure, but seems very close. It says I am at 790 which is what I have been estimating since getting my set.

If my objective is to determine if the set has been used (i.e. returned and repackaged), then this option should be good enough to tell me if the set has 0 hours on it without going into the service menu. Agree?
post #5720 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

I did for frist 300 hours, as long as you have good ventilation and controlled temps in the room shouldnt be a problem. Just check the tv every once in a while my screen never got hot to the touch. Ran constantly in my living room with fan on and AC set to 74.

Fantastic! Is there any full screen content you would recommend I use for the second 200 hours? Is there a good cable channel to run that's on 24/7?
post #5721 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcannon0317 View Post

Fantastic! Is there any full screen content you would recommend I use for the second 200 hours? Is there a good cable channel to run that's on 24/7?

I would just keep running slides - that's what I did even though the primary HBO channel (501 - HD channel - if you have DirecTV) seems to be a safe bet. Unlike other channels no logo or the running of movies in letterbox format.
post #5722 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

That's ultimately left up to the discretion of the store manager. Just threaten a return if you really must have it for that price.

Sorry, I left out a step. I first confirmed that Amazon price matched Paul's, which you can see on the link below. I took this into my local Best Buy with Magnolia and told the manager that I wanted to buy the set and did they price match Paul's TV. I had a print out of the price with discount on the Paul's checkout screen and showed it to him He agreed to match and didn't even go to their website to verify the price. I was prepared to use the "Amazon price matches Paul's and you price match Amazon, so... but didn't have to. At the end of the day I guess it is up to the store manager, but this one didn't hesitate, or have to call anyone to authorize or approve.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html/?nodeId=201133230
post #5723 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by smurraybhm View Post

I would just keep running slides - that's what I did even though the primary HBO channel (501 - HD channel - if you have DirecTV) seems to be a safe bet. Unlike other channels no logo or the running of movies in letterbox format.

Perfect! Thanks.
post #5724 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

This seems to be a much easier way to verify in the limited time that the delivery guy will be there.

I agree easier and safer...
post #5725 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcannon0317 View Post

I agree easier and safer...

So what is the consensus besides accessing the service menu? I really doubt I'm going to get a used set. But just to be on the safe side? What was the conclusion on checking the set braised its service menu? I just read the last two pages and couldn't really see which was better.

Honestly though you guys really think your getting a used set? Did I raise this concern when I mentioned BB used to do this? It is a concern if mine but I think you will know if your set is used when looking at it and how it is packaged. New TV smell lol
post #5726 of 14005
^No consensus was reached other than the readings seem to be close (anywhere between 4 and 12 hours apart from what is listed in the SM, perhaps another's readings matched). I don't know of anyone who checked this value upon receiving their set. If it's at 0, it would portend that you in fact have a new set.
post #5727 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcannon0317 View Post

That's a concern! I have the instructions and as long as I follow them is there still a risk? What's the chance that BB would send something other than a new TV vs one that had been returned?

I wouldn't worry about getting a used display if you brought new and that is so stated on your bill-of-sale from BB.
Simply unpack the display yourself using white cotton gloves (avoid your fingerprints), look for finger prints, torn tape on the plastic rapping things like that.
Does the display start out in setup mode, it should.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

As long as you follow the instructions EXACTLY there is no risk. The chances of BB sending you a used tv are very slim.

Yes maybe to you there is np going into the service menu, but most folks don't have a clue to what they are doing and there is no reset for the service menu.

I for one don't even use any external calibration software to access my VT60. Any calibration settings that are done using the VT60's internal user settings I do manually.
Not to say there is any problems using external calibration software, but I have been at this for to long and seen some problems crop up in the past.
That said if I had this to do allover again knowing what I know, I would use software tools like CM, CP, CC.

ss
post #5728 of 14005
Please Help!!!

I just got my 2nd P65VT60. The screen on the first one would just shut itself off after 30 seconds so I took it and exchanged it at Best Buy for another.

Now on my new VT60 I've noticed that the furthest right column of pixels is tinted greenish. I have to get within a few feet of the screen to notice but it is definitely there and knowing it's there on my expensive purchase is driving me insane.

Does anyone know what this is? Is this on all of the panels? Has anyone else had the problem and how do you fix it? Am I seriously going to have to return a 2nd 65" TV to Best Buy to get one that was made correctly?

I've searched the forums and the web and have yet to hear a good explanation as to what's happening and if many other people are experiencing the issue. The TV is gorgeous, I'm just getting frustrated.

Please Help!!
post #5729 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVKIK View Post

Odd question, what makes my 65vt60 more than fifty pounds heavier than the samsung 64f8500? Could the front glass be that much heavier? Just curious. Thanks.
Your information doesn't agree with data at Amazon. Your TV is listed at 93.7 lbs and the F8500 is listed at 79.8 lbs. That's a 13.9 lbs difference. The Samsung is one inch smaller, and probably has construction differences. I've just had our 60" Pioneer Kuro open, and it have very heavy construction. It weights 122.4 lbs. eek.gif
post #5730 of 14005
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcannon0317 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Not required but safe. Any full screen source without fixed images is safe.
D-Nice has recommended at least three hundred hours to stabilize the panel before you have it professionally calibrated.
That's the best way to get the most out of your display.
The respected calibrators that are active at AVS do tours. You can use the links at the bottom of my post for location and references.

D-Nice, Chad B, and UMR probably do tours in your area. You might even be in D-Nice's local area. For price and tour information contact the calibrators directly by email.

You can also get general tour information from turbe.

Is it recommended to run the slides 24 hrs per day for the first 100 hours, or only a max number of hours per day? Same for the content without fixed images for the next 200 hrs? I do watch a lot of ESPN and NFL Football. I want to get through the 300 hours asap without damaging the plasma

Thanks for your help!
As long as your room temperature is "normal" it doesn't make any difference. Our Pioneer was on for 500 hours (24/7) six years ago.

Even after 300 hours you still should mix your content. Click here for more information.
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