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Official Mitsubishi HC5 Owners Thread - Page 7

post #181 of 628
Here are the settings I promised a week ago: Use at your discretion

Iris Fixed at 8

Picture Mode User1

Contrast 0
Brightness 1
Color -8
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Gamma Correction Cinema
Setup Level 0 IRE

Color Temp User
Red Gain 0
Green Gain -34
Blue Gain -95
Red Offset 1
Green Offset -1
Blue Offset -12

Cinema Filter Movie
Cinema Mode Auto
Detail Enhancment Off

Color Management= Custom 1
All Colors at default settings except saturations at -5
Edited by larrimore - 6/26/13 at 8:54am
post #182 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonbud0 View Post

So how is the contrast between the two, RS10 vs. HC5?


Thanks.

A week ago I would have said the RS10 had clearly better blacks. After playing around with various iris settings I may be coming off that a bit. I liked to shut the iris way down on my RS10 and then open it up as the bulb aged. I tried that in User settings on the HC5 iris and had too many artifacts if much below
10 or 11. Weird color uniformity and bad bright corners and even faint clouds on all black transition scenes. Putting the iris to 10 I have great color uniformity and no clouds but the blacks are not great compared to the 30k:1 RS10, on my 133" high power screen. But funny thing is when I use preset #3 (darkest) for iris (and calibrate contrast and brightness with AVS disk) I get no artifacts and the blacks are very good - much, much closer to the 10 (or how I remember it) The all black screen is even more uniform as my 10 had bright corners and the hc5 is pretty good with this.
I still have to do the calibration work, like Larrimore, but am very happy with the blacks. Just need to work on a few other things to get this beast fully integrated into my room.

Quote:
Originally Posted by larrimore View Post

Here are the settings I promised a week ago: Use at your discretion

Picture Mode User1

Contrast 0
Brightness 1
Color -8
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Gamma Correction Cinema
Setup Level 0 IRE

Color Temp User
Red Gain 0
Green Gain -34
Blue Gain -95
Red Offset 1
Green Offset -1
Blue Offset -12

Cinema Filter Movie
Cinema Mode Auto
Detail Enhancment Off

Color Management= Custom 1
All Colors at default settings except saturations at -5

Thanks! Care to post your before and after measured numbers in HCFR?

Somehow, my screen was just too bright for a new bulb or something. I calibrated brightness and contrast with a Disney WOW disk I had but shadow detail seemed a little off to me. But, putting iris to preset 3 and then using the AVS disk made a HUGE difference as shadow detail is super and my dark floor is MUCH lower.

Am slowly spending time reading the calibration threads and will pick up a sensor sometime soon as it is starting to make more sense to me and seems like a good way to go as I expect to be in this hobby for quite a while. biggrin.gif
post #183 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

A week ago I would have said the RS10 had clearly better blacks. After playing around with various iris settings I may be coming off that a bit. I liked to shut the iris way down on my RS10 and then open it up as the bulb aged. I tried that in User settings on the HC5 iris and had too many artifacts if much below
10 or 11. Weird color uniformity and bad bright corners and even faint clouds on all black transition scenes. Putting the iris to 10 I have great color uniformity and no clouds but the blacks are not great compared to the 30k:1 RS10, on my 133" high power screen. But funny thing is when I use preset #3 (darkest) for iris (and calibrate contrast and brightness with AVS disk) I get no artifacts and the blacks are very good - much, much closer to the 10 (or how I remember it) The all black screen is even more uniform as my 10 had bright corners and the hc5 is pretty good with this.
I still have to do the calibration work, like Larrimore, but am very happy with the blacks. Just need to work on a few other things to get this beast fully integrated into my room.
Thanks! Care to post your before and after measured numbers in HCFR?

Somehow, my screen was just too bright for a new bulb or something. I calibrated brightness and contrast with a Disney WOW disk I had but shadow detail seemed a little off to me. But, putting iris to preset 3 and then using the AVS disk made a HUGE difference as shadow detail is super and my dark floor is MUCH lower.

Am slowly spending time reading the calibration threads and will pick up a sensor sometime soon as it is starting to make more sense to me and seems like a good way to go as I expect to be in this hobby for quite a while. biggrin.gif
care to share your settings?
post #184 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

...Care to post your before and after measured numbers in HCFR?

I would love to but somehow there is no information in the files I saved. They are there but when I open them (they show as size of 0kb) there is no information. I will see what I can do this weekend if I have time and maybe I can at least give you the graphs for "after".
post #185 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrimore View Post

I would love to but somehow there is no information in the files I saved. They are there but when I open them (they show as size of 0kb) there is no information. I will see what I can do this weekend if I have time and maybe I can at least give you the graphs for "after".

That would be cool. Still dragging my feet on what sensor to get. Kind of leaning the Colormunki Display and just get it new off Amazon. But is interesting to see the before and after numbers of displays etc. Also, good to have something to compare to since I am a newb. smile.gif
post #186 of 628
you might want to consider a calibrated display 3 meter, the typical off the shelf meters can have a range of variances. I have 2 eye one's that I used with HCFR that were off by a good bit. It wasn't until I had a calibrated meter that I realized the margin of error.
post #187 of 628
Thought id give everyone an update. Have had the HC5 for over a month now and have not had a single problem. Im guessing everyone else is enjoying theirs too considering this thread doesn't get much action tongue.gif
post #188 of 628
Thread Starter 
I sure am. smile.gif My only gripe with it would be gamma calibration as default presets measures too high (well above 2.1) and custom gamma correction is practically useless (because of OSD). So now I'm trying out different approaches to video card's LUT correction with ArgyllCMS (described here). I will try calibrating directly from lens today to improve low level accuracy (though it will introduce some color shift to the end/on-screen image).
post #189 of 628
I thought it was actually pretty accurate on Cinema? Cine4home seemed to think it was very good in this mode.
post #190 of 628
Thread Starter 
I don't know what they tested but I know what my eyes and i1 Display 3 tells me.
post #191 of 628
Anyone using this in their small lounge? Am wondering if its just going to look to big!!!!! 14ftx13ft
post #192 of 628
Thread Starter 
Anyone has contacts of the author of this article? http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/MitsubishiHC9000/HC9000Test.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhc5%2Bcine4home%26client%3Dchrome-mobile%26rlz%3D1Y3LUNP_enUS513US513%26espv%3D1

I am VERY interested to know how did they find custom 15-point gamma setting useful. Maybe there's a trick to using it.
post #193 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamieuk147 View Post

Anyone using this in their small lounge? Am wondering if its just going to look to big!!!!! 14ftx13ft

My room is 13' wide and this would be fine as a ceiling mount, imo. My particular setup, the HC5 is housed in a 3rd row bar so being bigger than my old projector is a little problematic. In a normal ceiling or shelf mount, being a little bigger would not impact the room negatively, again imo. It is a beautiful looking unit.
post #194 of 628
Does this projector do 2D to 3D conversion? smile.gif
post #195 of 628
Thread Starter 
No.
post #196 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamieuk147 View Post

Does this projector do 2D to 3D conversion? smile.gif
Believe me, you don't want it. I haven't seen anything impressive for 2D-3D conversion, though I have heard some people really like the 3D-Bee and the Teranex is supposed to be really fantastic (but it might not work in a home environment).
post #197 of 628
Anyone else care to share their settings?
post #198 of 628
guys,
i have an issue with the Mitsubishi original 3D Transmitter.
Basically i have tried to make it work with the 3d glasees (original mitsubishi glasses) and it did not worked.

The projector is configured to work in 3d mode
the Blu ray player (sony S790) is configured to work in 3d mode
the projector plays 3d content
i can connect to glasses on accordingly with the manual (1 red flash to be on)
the transmitter is supposedly working because i can see the green led on (accordingly with the manual its when the device is working)
i have the projector placed in a table stand, firstly i pointed the transmitter to myself so it can communicate with the glasses, the installed on the projector front, but cannot see the 3D from with the glasses.

Any clue about this?
post #199 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by morg2k2 View Post

guys,
i have an issue with the Mitsubishi original 3D Transmitter.
Basically i have tried to make it work with the 3d glasees (original mitsubishi glasses) and it did not worked.

The projector is configured to work in 3d mode
the Blu ray player (sony S790) is configured to work in 3d mode
the projector plays 3d content
i can connect to glasses on accordingly with the manual (1 red flash to be on)
the transmitter is supposedly working because i can see the green led on (accordingly with the manual its when the device is working)
i have the projector placed in a table stand, firstly i pointed the transmitter to myself so it can communicate with the glasses, the installed on the projector front, but cannot see the 3D from with the glasses.

Any clue about this?

Are you certain the 3D glasses are working?

Have you tried more than one pair of 3D glasses?

Did you try replacing the glasses' battery (perhaps a weak or near-dead battery)?


.
Edited by Ron Jones - 7/19/13 at 8:58am
post #200 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by morg2k2 View Post

the transmitter is supposedly working because i can see the green led on (accordingly with the manual its when the device is working)

I thought the leds in the transmitter should be red not green. When you are playing 3D does it play havoc with your remote controls (receiver, bluray player, etc...), I have usually experienced this as a good, though unfortunate, way to tell that the projector is indeed outputting an infrared signal. Also, what make/model are your glasses? Are you positive they are compatible?
post #201 of 628
I tried looking for the Mitsubishi HC5 on Mitsubishi's site and found no mention of this unit. Did this unit have a different name or am I missing something?

Update: I found it on the Australian Mitsubishi page. Weird.
Edited by OldGuy1982 - 7/25/13 at 5:23pm
post #202 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy1982 View Post

I tried looking for the Mitsubishi HC5 on Mitsubishi's site and found no mention of this unit. Did this unit have a different name or am I missing something?

Update: I found it on the Australian Mitsubishi page. Weird.

Sent you a PM. smile.gif
Reply
Reply
post #203 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy1982 View Post

I tried looking for the Mitsubishi HC5 on Mitsubishi's site and found no mention of this unit. Did this unit have a different name or am I missing something?

Update: I found it on the Australian Mitsubishi page. Weird.

This model seems to have been rolled out in a marginal way and you will not find it in the support section either. It seems that they made some minor revision to the hc-9000 and just decided to put it up for sale without integrating it with their other projector lines in their marketing material.
post #204 of 628
Hit 100 hours last night. Picture quality still blows me away. I wish other brands would take notes from mitsubishi's amazing FI technology. No SOE but an incredibly smooth picture. cool.gif
post #205 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

Hit 100 hours last night. Picture quality still blows me away. I wish other brands would take notes from mitsubishi's amazing FI technology. No SOE but an incredibly smooth picture. cool.gif
I couldn't agree more. This thing throws a beautiful picture and the FI is absolutely phenomenal, I never turn it off. Their customer service is top notch as well.
post #206 of 628
Anyone interested in purchasing a perfect HC5, for cheap, PM me. Less than 100 hours on it.

I can't get it to work in my hushbox and, due to its airflow design, it sticks out the hush box and affects seating at my 3rd row bar and the wife can't handle that for parties etc.

Not that much bigger than a current JVC but, long story, the air flow layout is not compatable with my hushbox layout. I am really going to miss the motion on this and Football season is coming...mad.gif

PM me for any details, or to set up a viewing if you are in the Portland area.
post #207 of 628
Hi Folks. I am interested in this projector, but I am afraid it does not have the necessary vertical stretch option I need to use with my anamorphic lens. Can someone verify if this feature is present or absent on this projector. As an FYI for those not familiar with anamorphic lens, this feature stretches a picture vertically, effectively removing the black bars on 2.35:1 movies and your anamorphic lens stretches the picture horizontally to fill a 2.35:1 screen. Anyway, does it exist on this projector? I will be sad if it does not.

Thanks
-Hal
post #208 of 628

I just picked one of these up and was wondering if I go to pixel adjust should a new screen pop up to adjust the convergence?

If not, how do I get to that?

 

Thanks.

post #209 of 628
Thread Starter 
Yes, there's an OSD for pixel convergence.
post #210 of 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elix View Post

Yes, there's an OSD for pixel convergence.

So, when I hit pixel adjust that screen should come up?

All I get is the sliders for red and blue over regular content im watching.

 

Thanks.

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