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F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 29

post #841 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

I know, I'm with you. Now everyone will think the believers are nutz....
If it is a black improvement, I'm seeing it as making the scale of black to white to have more depth, so for instance a shadow will now have more detail in it, giving the picture a more 3d look, if that makes any sense (?)

Quick, here, I made you a tin foil hat like mine tongue.gif

I hear ya. biggrin.gif

But honestly, I'm not one that's readily susceptible to a placebo effect. In fact I remember saying initially I didn't see any difference in the update, but I really didn't sit down and carefully look at material I had seen before. It was only after doing that it seemed something had changed.

BTW, I forgot to thank Buzz for his detailed info on his cal! Thanks Buzz. smile.gif
post #842 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArbalestNL View Post

About the updates, are the US and the EU versions differently labeled? I have the latest EU firmware numbered 1004.7.

Anyway, the update seemed to fix the jumpy ABL for me. I played a movie called "The Art of Flight" several times before and after updating to see what it looked like.
It's a movie about snowboarding, so it obviously has ALOT of contrast scenes in it because of all the snow and mountains. Also it's often very bright, forcing the ABL to kick in alot.

Before the update I could really notice ABL kicking in during various scenes in the movie. After the update ABL seemed to behave alot more relaxed, keeping steadier brightness levels.

Anyone feel the same?

one of my most favorite films!! just stunning on this display. (a must have for the bluray library!) im not sure which update helped abl but it does seem to be less affected now. i noticed it after the previous update....
post #843 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post



But honestly, I'm not one that's readily susceptible to a placebo effect. In fact I remember saying initially I didn't see any difference in the update, but I really didn't sit down and carefully look at material I had seen before. It was only after doing that it seemed something had changed.

Enough people agree so there must be some sort of change. It's not floating black though as the measurements I did for zoyd showed no change pre and post the new FW. You owners will figure it out. smile.gif
post #844 of 2081
EU has 1102 latest update on 27/5/13.
post #845 of 2081
is it possible to improve gradation with a software update?

I really don't know where you draw the line between hardware and software. and to be honest I didn't see any noticeable improvements. but maybe they made some improvements in how some of the processing works. processing that I have turned off, and would therefore never notice?
post #846 of 2081
No, you can't physically change the driving signals to improve gradation with a firmware update. You can however improve perceived detail by futzing with the LCE luminance algorithm in the processor. This is not a user feature that can be enabled/disabled without access to the 2D_picture settings in the service menu.
post #847 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

No, you can't physically change the driving signals to improve gradation with a firmware update. You can however improve perceived detail by futzing with the LCE luminance algorithm in the processor. This is not a user feature that can be enabled/disabled without access to the 2D_picture settings in the service menu.

unless the software was limiting the panels performance right? I mean, I have some BD rips that have terrible gradation, so I know it's possible for gradation to be reduced by software.

anyway, it's just speculation, actually not even that, just guesses. still seems like if there's any changes it was probably with the processing and since I have most of the processing turned off, that's why I didn't see any change
post #848 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by polakis View Post

EU has 1102 latest update on 27/5/13.

True. Two days ago I have updated from 1004 to 1102 via USB. No major change in PQ.
The only thing I have noticed was the cursor movement became faster in the smart hub.
post #849 of 2081
I noticed the 1102 update for EU, but it's still behind on the US models.

Might be a stupid question but, is it possible to install the US firmware on my EU TV? Could this also unlock the CAL-DAY setting? Or would this brick my tv?
post #850 of 2081
The tv will only allow FW upgrades from your region.
post #851 of 2081
We are waiting for the eu 1103 and 1104 firmware versions...I hope soon...
post #852 of 2081
Hopefully they will add the CAL settings as well, that's the most important feature I miss on our sets. I don't understand why the EU models should have this removed, it's not fair! frown.gif
post #853 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArbalestNL View Post

Hopefully they will add the CAL settings as well, that's the most important feature I miss on our sets. I don't understand why the EU models should have this removed, it's not fair! frown.gif

If the EU models are the same as ours, it will take a calibrator to unlock the cal settings. It can be done in the service menu, but you can do a lot of damage there yourself. Bottom line is you may already have the cal modes waiting to be unlocked.
post #854 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

If the EU models are the same as ours, it will take a calibrator to unlock the cal settings. It can be done in the service menu, but you can do a lot of damage there yourself. Bottom line is you may already have the cal modes waiting to be unlocked.

No those are not same kind, I tried even DIY IR-Transmitter but no success, it stays grayed. (However that transmitter works just fine, bought my´n set [PS64E8000] from German and changed local from EU to Nordic with that. But it don´t unlock "Expert" even if that emulates factory remote.)
Edited by Make73 - 6/3/13 at 11:41am
post #855 of 2081
Pie - Someone on here mentioned that your settings have a green tinge to it. Have you confirmed this and/or made any modifications to your settings?
post #856 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by caeguy View Post

Pie - Someone on here mentioned that your settings have a green tinge to it. Have you confirmed this and/or made any modifications to your settings?

Ohh no he didn't! You're not going to let him get away with that Pie are you?
post #857 of 2081
Does anyone know the difference between the different modes for "Film Mode" like Auto1, Auto2, and cinema smooth? Do any of them affect TV viewing?
post #858 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by caeguy View Post

Pie - Someone on here mentioned that your settings have a green tinge to it.

That was when compared to an overly red calibration. I checked and cannot detect any green hue. It's should be showing pretty accurate face tones I think.
post #859 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by crmmoore View Post

Does anyone know the difference between the different modes for "Film Mode" like Auto1, Auto2, and cinema smooth? Do any of them affect TV viewing?

auto 1 favors film 60p

auto 2 favors video 60p

CS 24p
post #860 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by airgas1998 View Post

auto 1 favors film 60p

auto 2 favors video 60p

CS 24p

So by film we mean movies that aren't 24p? and by video we mean TV?

Just trying to get a handle on it
post #861 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by crmmoore View Post

So by film we mean movies that aren't 24p? and by video we mean TV?

Just trying to get a handle on it

correct...
post #862 of 2081
Anyone have issues with blurays playing at 24p after the latest firmware update? Before I ran the update, my bluray player was outputing 24p, but now the tv will only accept a 60p input.
post #863 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

That was when compared to an overly red calibration. I checked and cannot detect any green hue. It's should be showing pretty accurate face tones I think.

I would agree with Pie. Faces look better than with stock Warm2 which is slightly too red-ish to me.
post #864 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by airgas1998 View Post

auto 1 favors film 60p

auto 2 favors video 60p

CS 24p

Just to clarify, auto 1 and auto 2 are deinterlacing modes that are active only when the input is either 480i or 1080i. auto 1 is preferred, auto 2 should be used only to fix scrolling text issues on interlaced material (usually sports or news at 1080i)

CS is only active when the input is 24p.
post #865 of 2081
Larry, Buzz, zoyd;

3D - the calibration of.

Are there any tricks or a set formula to apply to a 2D calibration to help with 3D without being able to measure 3D with a meter?
The glasses obviously add a 'film' to which you view through, so I assume upping luminance is good. Default 3D has contrast up to 100, that can't be right, can it?

Any pointers or info/thoughts very welcome!

smile.gif
post #866 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Larry, Buzz, zoyd;

3D - the calibration of.

Are there any tricks or a set formula to apply to a 2D calibration to help with 3D without being able to measure 3D with a meter?
The glasses obviously add a 'film' to which you view through, so I assume upping luminance is good. Default 3D has contrast up to 100, that can't be right, can it?

Any pointers or info/thoughts very welcome!

smile.gif

You need max luminance without clipping white or colors because the glasses reduce luminance considerably. There is no formula. You must calibrate using 3D patterns and the meter looking through the glasses.
post #867 of 2081
^That brings up the fact that the i1 needs to be touching the surface of the screen to get accurate results?
I wondered how I could try to use the meter for that.
post #868 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^That brings up the fact that the i1 needs to be touching the surface of the screen to get accurate results?
I wondered how I could try to use the meter for that.

Off screen is fine, and that's a fact. smile.gif
post #869 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^That brings up the fact that the i1 needs to be touching the surface of the screen to get accurate results?
I wondered how I could try to use the meter for that.

http://www.google.fi/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.spectracal.com%2Fdownloads%2Ffiles%2FWebsite%2FWebsite%2520Articles%2F3D%2520HDTV%2520Calibration%2520Basics.pdf&ei=7iWuUd23NsSk4AS69oCQAQ&usg=AFQjCNG5_V-i8xqxTbJ2U1RTNxcDxLl_0Q&sig2=G4eBOvWa5-mbPJrZUwFxKg&bvm=bv.47244034,d.bGE

http://www.tlvexp.ca/2011/12/guide-to-3d-calibration-im-going-to-be-sick/

I used just normal 2D calibration disk with 2D-->3D conversion.
Set that with tripod close as possible when glasses still make connection with TV.
Edited by Make73 - 6/4/13 at 10:44am
post #870 of 2081
Quote:
Originally Posted by crmmoore View Post

So by film we mean movies that aren't 24p? and by video we mean TV?

Just trying to get a handle on it

Hmm... I'm not sure, but I read a review somewhere (I don't know if this is accurate, as I know nothing, lol) where the reviewer/calibrator said that for watching tv over cable/satellite/etc ie:60i, you should use "Auto 1" as it was the mode that did correct 3:2 pulldown. Whatever that means and for whatever that's worth.

He also said to use Cinema Smooth for Blu Rays doing 24p.
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