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Swerve's 9.2 Media room and Full Bar build - Page 3

post #61 of 73
Thread Starter 
Rebuilt my TV wall mount niche to isolate it from the exterior wall framing in behind. Previously, I had built it without considering all the coupling I created between the inner and outer walls that surely would have resulted in a major flanking path.

Here's the niche before:



For my new design, with some help from Ted, I decided to laminate 2x4s and some 1/2" MDF scrap to create a 3" niche, with 2x6s in the back verticals for a little more strength. Here are the first assemblies:

AppleMark


As I was satisfied that the niche was at the right height, I cut out the front 2x4 resulting in my new 'engineered' studs:

AppleMark

I then mocked up the TV wall mount:

AppleMark

and proceeded to finish up niche framing, electrical, and conduit runs:

AppleMark

AppleMark

It's quite rigid, and decoupled from the outside framing. It's only connected at the top and bottom plates just like the other studs. Problem solved.
Edited by Swervepf - 10/11/13 at 12:21pm
post #62 of 73
Thread Starter 
Laid down subfloor this past weekend. I went with Barricade subfloor tiles for the insulation benefit plus it doesn't clickity clack like I've heard the DriCore subfloor tiles can if you don't shim them properly in low spots. Luckily I was able to catch them on sale for $5 each versus the regular $7.19.

Feels like some progress was made!

AppleMark

AppleMark

And after about 6 hours, all 400 sq ft were down.

AppleMark

Quite an easy job really!
Edited by Swervepf - 10/30/13 at 8:29am
post #63 of 73
Looks great!
post #64 of 73
Any updates?
post #65 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Any updates?
Been delayed by fun stuff in life. This room's budget just disappeared to a main bath Reno so it's going to be tough here on out I think. In the bath I did 1/2" DD&GG the wall shared with the master bedroom. Only hiccup was the boarders used 'easy lite' drywall. Argh. It was all done while I was at work so there's no going back now. You have to watch every detail or it will go sideways and quick.

I'm going to be working on my in wall AV rack next while I mull over my plan for decoupling my ceiling behind the recessed motorized screen.

I can't decide whether to keep the perpendicular orientation of clips and channel or if I should clip and channel in parallel with the joists here to use less clips and better isolate. I'd have to run another joist down the middle but thats no biggie. Here's the joist cavity where the screen will be in a backer box as far forward as I can or left in this pic:

7uja7e9e.jpg
post #66 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swervepf View Post


I can't decide whether to keep the perpendicular orientation of clips and channel with the joists or if I should clip and channel in parallel here to use less clips and better isolate. I'd have to run another joist down the middle but that's no biggie. Here's the joist cavity where the screen will be in a backer box as far forward as I can or left in this pic:

7uja7e9e.jpg

Trying to decide how to solve my ceiling clipping dilemma behind the screen opening. In front of the screen is ~18' that's all clipped and channeled perpendicular to the joists. Here's mockups of the 2 options I think I have.

Legend:
Blue - outline of recessed motorized screen
Mustard yellow - new joist
Red - clips
Grey - hat channel

1- Keep clips and channels orientation the same; perpendicular to joists. Con is that I will use a lot of clips for a small portion of ceiling and not decouple very well.



2 - Run clips and channels parallel with the joists. Con is that the 2 channels will only be 6-8" apart... not exactly the recommended 24". I don't know if there are any other cons with this approach.



Which way should I go? I'm leaning towards option 2 since it at least uses less clips and thus should better decouple.

Any other suggestions?
post #67 of 73
I would do #2 don't worry about two channels 6-8 inches apart. The fact that it takes fewer clips means that it would be preferred from an isolation viewpoint

Are you building some kind of isolated backer box for the screen housing? I would build and install that at the same time as you work on the clips and channel, you want to make sure it fits. IB3 clips to hold it up?
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 11/21/13 at 2:34pm
post #68 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Are you building some kind of isolated backer box for the screen housing?

Thanks, BIG. Yes, I am. I'm basically going to repeat what I've done for my pot lights, but with thicker OSB. I'm going to use 5/8 OSB, GG, and 5/8 drywall to create a backer box to fit the screen housing into, creating a ~100 lb assembly. I emailed Ted and he suggested 2 65lb cable isolators, and stabilize with IB-3 brackets, which I'm thinking I'll use 2; 1 on each end. I suppose this would attach to the joists, or blocks between 2 joists for a total of 4 attachment points between the assembly and the joist framing.

I was thinking of taking it another step further from a decoupling perspective. I was thinking of 2 x 6 blocking between the 2 joists with 4 IB-3 brackets on each block; 2 on each end, where the blocks don't touch the joists to decouple the blocks from the joists. Then, I'd hang the screen backer box assembly from these blocks with the cable isolators and stabilize to the blocks with the 2 IB-3 brackets. So, vibration would travel from the backer box, to what's holding the load- 2 cable isolators, then onto 8 IB-3s. Is this plan sound? Have another suggestion? Thanks in advance.
Edited by Swervepf - 11/22/13 at 10:44am
post #69 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I would build and install that at the same time as you work on the clips and channel, you want to make sure it fits. IB3 clips to hold it up?

Oops! Just realized I was calling the IB-3 brackets IB-1s... so have revised my post; sorry BIG. But, yes, IB-3 brackets in combination with cable isolators as described above. What do you think?
post #70 of 73
Thread Starter 
Concerned about my electrical. I just read a thread here talking about ground loop issues that can occur when Projectors and TVs are plugged into separate circuits from the main AV rack:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1515778/long-hdmi-cable-rec-for-in-wall-run#post_24311872

My AV rack has 1 dedicated 15A circuit on my breaker panel that will power my receiver, bluray player, etc.
My Projector and TV will plug into a separate 2nd circuit.
I will be connecting my receiver to the TV and projectors with Monoprice RedMere HDMI cables.

Will I have a ground loop issue and if so, how can I avoid this?
post #71 of 73
I always do a single common ground bar at the AV rack. A separate small power panel is good. Feed the AC power to the projector/TV from the AV rack, with all the grounds tied to the common ground bar in the AV rack. Short, low resistance grounds are the key to avoiding ground loops.
post #72 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swervepf View Post

Thanks! I have a cat6 cable for the projector, but haven't run it simply because the Panny PT-AR100U I'm thinking I'll get doesn't have a CAT6 jack. If, when the time comes, I go with another projector, or later on replace it with a projector that does have a cat6 jack, I'll feed it through the 2" conduit, which for now only will house a single HDMI.
If you haven't closed up your walls then I'd do dual HDMIs to both your TV and projector (I've already had one of my in-wall ones fail for no apparent reason) plus dual cat 6 to your screen wall and projector, you don't even need to terminate the cables as you're not planning on using them yet but it's so much easier to run the cables now (even with conduits) than after you've put up your drywall.
post #73 of 73
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

I always do a single common ground bar at the AV rack. A separate small power panel is good. Feed the AC power to the projector/TV from the AV rack, with all the grounds tied to the common ground bar in the AV rack. Short, low resistance grounds are the key to avoiding ground loops.

I checked the junction box in my closet and see that the grounds for both the AV rack circuit and TV/projector circuit are tied together. The hot and neutrals for the 2 are separate though, right back to the panel. I hope this will be sufficient.
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