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Harmony Ultimate, Smart Control and Hub - Page 50

post #1471 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post

The Ultimate absolutely supports IR direct from the remote. This is covered in section 2 of the FAQ in the very first post of this thread, and has been discussed multiple times throughout the thread and at no time did it not support this feature and if someone claimed it didn't in this thread they would have been shot down immediately. The smart does not support IR in the remote though.
Thanks Keith, you have replied to one of my posts way back quite a few months back and I was good with it until I've just recently heard otherwise from someone else, thanks again and I believe the ultimate will be the remote for me when I'm ready in a month or so when the rest of my stuff is hooked up and ready, thanks again for your 2nd reply to this same question I've asked...
post #1472 of 1834
Some advice please. I just setup a new smart remote. My system on this floor is such that the TV sits on an entertainment cabinet. I have two devices on shelves behind glass doors on the left and three devices on shelves behind glass doors on the right. The Hub's IR signal seems pretty strong at least vertically. If I place it on the left side on top of the cabinet it is able to power up/down all devices below it and the TV next to it. It does not 'reach' any components on the right. So I placed the IR blaster on a shelf in the right cabinets. The IR blaster does well on powering up one shelf's device but ignores the other two devices on a taller shelf. I monkeyed around with placement and confirmed that the blaster works fine, it just doesn't have the range I need to power up all three devices. So I think I'm in the market for another IR Blaster. That should allow me to use one IR blaster on each shelf level and power everything. Any recommendations on best IR blaster to purchase? I see the one on Logitech's site is out of stock so I am looking for alternate suggestions. Thanks.
post #1473 of 1834
Well, I picked up the Ultimate and have started setting up and using the remote. I love the design but getting use to the ergonomics is clearly going to take a little time. I agree that a screen lock is a needed addition, as I have already accidentally touched the screen twice, changing the channel once and switching to another activity the next. For now, I just keep it on the activity screen (watch TV) and there are no buttons there that would cause a problem if I touch the screen.

I still need to figure out why some button presses act like I have pressed twice. For instance, pressing the Direction up or down button while browsing the channel guide or DVR list sometimes skips two at a time instead of one. Or, pressing fast forward goes directly to 4X instead of 2X. Or pressing Pause results in a split second pause then resumes...

Also, there seems to be a disconnect with the database of commands. Several basic core commands for my Cox DVR (cisco 9865hdc) were not present or did not work properly, despite working fine with my 10 year old Harmony 880. Stop, Pause, Record, Menu, DVR List and more. After learning the commands from my Cox remote, all is well.

The IR output of the hub is pretty impressive. With the hub on top of my AV console, it hits all of the components inside the console by bouncing off walls. Before, I had to carefully aim my 880 to hit all of the components.
post #1474 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post

Hello Sylvain

I went to the settings as you described

As you saw in my account, my current inputs are set to: I press a button and it immediately changes to a new input, and I repeat if necessary and the Which command changes to the next input question is answered by NextInput being selected from that drop down box on the NEXT page.

So....

I changed the first setting to: I press a different buttons that directly switch to DVD or other inputs and left all of the inputs alone that are on the NEXT page ("What are the inputs for your TV") in the left table.

The result is what I was looking for.....not cycling through the inputs....but the problem there was, because we do not have a valid IR code for "Component", It screws things up as the TV never gets to the COMPONENT input even with the HELP button.

So I switched it back to the first settings that Logitech support set up.

If we can only find a valid IR code for Component.....that would fix the problems.

Thanks for the update - I'll see if we can dig out that IR code.
post #1475 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoatLocker View Post

I still need to figure out why some button presses act like I have pressed twice. For instance, pressing the Direction up or down button while browsing the channel guide or DVR list sometimes skips two at a time instead of one. Or, pressing fast forward goes directly to 4X instead of 2X. Or pressing Pause results in a split second pause then resumes...
Turn down the repeats. Since you used learns (unnecessarily), the learns may also be at fault (too many repeats learned).

Your commands were probably missing because you didn't specify the correct control device when setting up the activity. You can also customize buttons to add them back. I just added your device to my account, and all the commands are there.

This should all be conceptually the same as it was with your 880. Realize that if you upgraded, your customizations don't get transferred, only the activities and devices themselves.
post #1476 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by 413X3 View Post

I tried this to stop the tv from changing 2 numbers at a time adjusting picture contrast or others but it did not fix it. It was default command repeat slider all the way to the right but 0 or another setting doesn't fix it.

413X3, what's the manufacturer and model number of your TV please?

Thanks

Sylvain
post #1477 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by kdavis220 View Post

Hi...not sure if anyone has had this problem. I have the Harmony Smart Control (non-Ultimate) system w/ the simplistic remote and iOS app. Everything works fine and as expected with the exception of the volume control on the physical remote. It is very intermittent where the mute works all the time along with all the other buttons but the volume up and down rarely works. I don't see the green light flash on the hub like when I press any other button on the remote or by using the iOS app.

Any help for this would be greatly appreciated.

Love the Harmony line of remotes and have been using them for some years now!

It's possible there's a faulty contact as DoctorVideo mentioned. Please PM me your email ID and I'll take a look inside your account to make sure everything's ok.

Thanks

Sylvain
post #1478 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by riji2 View Post

I have asked for this new feature at Logitech support service
and they have send this to the the relevant department.

The request for a screen lock has been noted and communicated to the team!

Regards,

Sylvain
post #1479 of 1834
On my family room I have a ceiling fan with regular lights right now.
Do I just need to buy Hue lights instead or do I need additional eqipment besides the Hue lights and the Ultimate remote?
post #1480 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post

On my family room I have a ceiling fan with regular lights right now.
Do I just need to buy Hue lights instead or do I need additional eqipment besides the Hue lights and the Ultimate remote?

You can also use X-10 lighting modules and/or switches
http://home-automation.smarthome.com/search?view=list&w=x10
post #1481 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post

You can also use X-10 lighting modules and/or switches
http://home-automation.smarthome.com/search?view=list&w=x10
Thanks for the link but I really just want to know if I can just place hue lights on my ceiling fan and use the Ultimate?
post #1482 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

Turn down the repeats. Since you used learns (unnecessarily), the learns may also be at fault (too many repeats learned).

Your commands were probably missing because you didn't specify the correct control device when setting up the activity. You can also customize buttons to add them back. I just added your device to my account, and all the commands are there.

This should all be conceptually the same as it was with your 880. Realize that if you upgraded, your customizations don't get transferred, only the activities and devices themselves.

Thanks mdavej. You were right, I had the Cisco D9865 vice the Cisco 9865HDC. Swapping to the correct model fixed the missing/broken functions. I'm also not seeing double presses after updating. I really appreciate you taking the time to help.
post #1483 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post

Thanks for the link but I really just want to know if I can just place hue lights on my ceiling fan and use the Ultimate?

You need more than just the lights

http://logitech-en-emea.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/42206
post #1484 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post

You need more than just the lights

http://logitech-en-emea.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/42206

I read on the link you need the hue wireless system.
Thats not good it means spend more.
post #1485 of 1834
The crazy thing is I just got of the phone with Harmony and they mentioned that with the Ultimate remote you can just buy the Phillips Hue lights and use the app to control lighting without having to but the Phillips Hue wireless system because the Harmony Hub controls all that.
post #1486 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post

The crazy thing is I just got of the phone with Harmony and they mentioned that with the Ultimate remote you can just buy the Phillips Hue lights and use the app to control lighting without having to but the Phillips Hue wireless system because the Harmony Hub controls all that.
That is correct. The bulbs are directly controllable by the hub. However, do you really want to spend more on light bulbs than you did on your entire fan? Those things are insanely expensive. If I were building a home automation system today, I'd start with Mi Casa Verde and Z-wave devices. Belkin Wemo also has potential. Neither are integrated with Harmony, but work well with iPhone or Android. Until Philips prices come down, they just aren't a viable solution IMO.
post #1487 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

That is correct. The bulbs are directly controllable by the hub. However, do you really want to spend more on light bulbs than you did on your entire fan? Those things are insanely expensive. If I were building a home automation system today, I'd start with Mi Casa Verde and Z-wave devices. Belkin Wemo also has potential. Neither are integrated with Harmony, but work well with iPhone or Android. Until Philips prices come down, they just aren't a viable solution IMO.

Harmony also told me I can control the light with the remote with Lutron switch. The part that I am not clear on is I know the Lutron switch has to be IR but does my ceiling fan need to also have IR capabilities?
post #1488 of 1834
Quote:
Can the remote send IR or is it just the Hub?
The Ultimate is capable of IR, the Smart remote is not. In the MyHarmony software you can choose whether the Ultimate or the Hub sends IR. Go to Settings and choose "Remote and Hub Assignments". From there you can assign a device to the Ultimate or the Hub, and with the Hub you can choose whether the Hub and IR ports are used, or narrow it down to the Hub or a specific port.

Hello all,
I think the above quote answers my question, but I want to make sure before I bite the bullet. Long story short, I'm in the process of finishing my basement. I will have a mounted projector (either the Epson 5030UB or the Panasonic AE8000... haven't decided yet) which of course will shoot onto a screen attached to my wall. The other side of the wall is a good sized closed where my receiver (Probably Yamaha RX-A1030), DirecTV DVR, PS3, and maybe a blu-ray or cd player will be located.

A guy came over to my house and recommended a Universal brand remote and hub that totaled up to 500 bucks plus an hourly rate to program it. I really don't want to spend 500 bucks on a remote and I would prefer to program it myself (I programmed my 650 just fine). However, I had no idea how to control something that had no line of site and was tucked away behind a wall in a closet. Thankfully I learned about this Ultimate remote which I think will be my answer to save a couple hundred bucks.

My question is since the projector will be mounted in the room I would be using the remote from, can the remote itself send a signal to the projector and then also send a signal to the hub that will in turn send a signal to the equipment in the closet? Or will I have to somehow point one of those IR blasters that is wired to the hub back out into the room that has the projector? Again, I'm pretty sure the quote above says the remote can control the projector without the hub needing to send a signal to it. I just want to double check before I spend the money.

Thanks,
Doug D.
post #1489 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post

Harmony also told me I can control the light with the remote with Lutron switch. The part that I am not clear on is I know the Lutron switch has to be IR but does my ceiling fan need to also have IR capabilities?
What is "the Lutron switch"? So far you have only mentioned Philips Hue. What do you have already? Philips Hue and Lutron protocols are not compatible with each other. If you have an IR Lutron dimmer, then you only need dumb light bulbs in your fan. The dimmer on the wall does the work, not anything on the fan.
post #1490 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougdude9 View Post

My question is since the projector will be mounted in the room I would be using the remote from, can the remote itself send a signal to the projector and then also send a signal to the hub that will in turn send a signal to the equipment in the closet?
Yes for the Ultimate, no for the Smart.
Quote:
Or will I have to somehow point one of those IR blasters that is wired to the hub back out into the room that has the projector
Only if you get the Smart instead of the Ultimate.

However, I don't understand how this is going to work. I assume the projector is behind you on the ceiling. Since it won't be line-of-sight with your remote, how will you control it? Do you have mirrors or glass in front of you to reflect the signal? If I were you, I'd point the hub or a blaster toward the projector anyway.
post #1491 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

What is "the Lutron switch"? So far you have only mentioned Philips Hue. What do you have already? Philips Hue and Lutron protocols are not compatible with each other. If you have an IR Lutron dimmer, then you only need dumb light bulbs in your fan. The dimmer on the wall does the work, not anything on the fan.

Sorry I meant to put the Hue technology aside.
I was referring only about the Luteron wall switches to control and dim lights.
I called Luteron and they confused me because I have 2 different areas of lighting in my kitchen. I currently have 2 switches in the kitchen coming out of the same wall plate. One controls the light for the dinning area and the other for the kitchen.
When I asked the agent he suggested I use the http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390324958&sr=8-1&keywords=MIR-600THW-WH
but the issue I see is will I be able to control the lights individually or will this switch turn both the dinning and kitchen at the same time?
post #1492 of 1834
Quote:
However, I don't understand how this is going to work. I assume the projector is behind you on the ceiling. Since it won't be line-of-sight with your remote, how will you control it? Do you have mirrors or glass in front of you to reflect the signal? If I were you, I'd point the hub or a blaster toward the projector anyway.

Bummer! No the projector won't be behind me frown.gif Not sure how I will point one of those at the projector. I'm going for a clean look. So the IR on the projector is only on the front of it? You would think they would put it on front and back.

Thanks,
Doug
post #1493 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougdude9 View Post

Bummer! No the projector won't be behind me frown.gif Not sure how I will point one of those at the projector. I'm going for a clean look. So the IR on the projector is only on the front of it? You would think they would put it on front and back.

Thanks,
Doug

Doug, I have the Panasonic AE8000 and Harmony Ultimate. The projector is very sensitive to IR, so my guess is that it won't matter if you are in front or behind. I believe my signal actually bounces off the screen before hitting the projector.

I've controlled the projector both with IR directly from the remote (worked fine) as well as with one of the mini blasters coming up through a hole in a countertop (works fine as well).

Jeff
post #1494 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougdude9 View Post

Bummer! No the projector won't be behind me frown.gif Not sure how I will point one of those at the projector. .............

I have two projectors about 18 feet from my screen and a Harmony Ultimate. Bouncing the IR off the screen and back to the projectors is all I need to control both of them.
post #1495 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstoddard View Post

Doug, I have the Panasonic AE8000 and Harmony Ultimate. The projector is very sensitive to IR, so my guess is that it won't matter if you are in front or behind. I believe my signal actually bounces off the screen before hitting the projector.

I've controlled the projector both with IR directly from the remote (worked fine) as well as with one of the mini blasters coming up through a hole in a countertop (works fine as well).

Jeff

Thanks jstoddard and karlsch! I appreciate it very much and it makes me feel better about pulling the trigger for this remote. Man I love this forum. I wish there were forums like this for other stuff!

Doug D.
post #1496 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post

Sorry I meant to put the Hue technology aside.
I was referring only about the Luteron wall switches to control and dim lights.
I called Luteron and they confused me because I have 2 different areas of lighting in my kitchen. I currently have 2 switches in the kitchen coming out of the same wall plate. One controls the light for the dinning area and the other for the kitchen.
When I asked the agent he suggested I use the http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390324958&sr=8-1&keywords=MIR-600THW-WH
but the issue I see is will I be able to control the lights individually or will this switch turn both the dinning and kitchen at the same time?
Sorry, I don't know much about Lutron. But from what I've read, all IR wall switches like the one linked above respond to the same IR codes, hence no individual control. Sounds like you're looking for a truly addressable system. IR controllable lights aren't a great idea in the first place since they only work line of sight with your remote/hub/blaster.
post #1497 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post

Hello Sylvain

Why would my Mits TV (Watch TV Activity-input 2) cycle through it's inputs when the Watch TV Activity is selected FROM coming from a different Activity...even when those inputs are discreet IR codes?

Example:

Watch TV (input 2)- All desired components turn on and to correct input

FROM Watch TV to another activity that uses the TV such as PLAY WII, which is input 3, the TV will go directly to that input since it is after the TV input 2 BUT....when I go back to the Watch TV (Input 2) Activity, the TV will cycle through: Component, Antenna A, Antenna B, Input 1 finally to arrive at Input 2.

There are discreet IR codes for everything except the Component (which we attempted to tackle when I sent you the 12 sets of hex codes).

If I go to DEVICES (tv), there are the discreet inputs that work for all of the above mentioned inputs (not toggling through them) ....except for the Component, but again...that is a separate issue.

So why then if I can directly switch from input 3 back to input 2 or from input 3 to Antenna A with the DEVICE TV buttons, it has to CYCLE through the inputs when I go from Activity Watch Wii (input 3) back to Watch TV (Input 2)?

CaptMike, our data guys made a change to the VS-60705 and the Component discrete should now work. Please delete and re-add this device to your account to get the latest changes. You will need to reconnect Activities that are using this device. Also be sure not to change anything in the device's input settings -- please test with the defaults!

Regards,

Sylvain
post #1498 of 1834
[quo te name="HarmonySylvain" url="/t/1468520/harmony-ultimate-smart-control-and-hub/1470#post_24245966"]
CaptMike, our data guys made a change to the VS-60705 and the Component discrete should now work. Please delete and re-add this device to your account to get the latest changes. You will need to reconnect Activities that are using this device. Also be sure not to change anything in the device's input settings -- please test with the defaults!

Regards,

Sylvain[/quote]

Hi

How about first they just add the COMPONENT command as "Test" as they have to my account in the past.

OR

I think the easiest and non-invasive why to test this out would be just be for me to:, ADD DEVICE>MITS TV TEST. and test it that way
Edited by CaptMike - 1/22/14 at 6:52am
post #1499 of 1834
@CaptMike,

Out of curiosity, I just added that device myself and analyzed the new Input Component1 code. It's identical to the very first code you posted on 12/13/13 (besides being an ever so slightly lower frequency) that you said didn't work. I'll really be scratching my head if this one works. Actually, I was scratching when that code didn't work in the first place. According to all the other databases I've checked, it should have.

As I've said before, a $3 remote from ebay plus 15 minutes of your time would have also exposed the correct code. I've often wondered why not go for the cheap, simple solution rather than let this drag out a month.

Anyway, the result will be interesting.
Edited by mdavej - 1/21/14 at 5:46pm
post #1500 of 1834
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

@CaptMike,

Out of curiosity, I just added that device myself and analyzed the new Input Component1 code. It's identical to the very first code you posted on 12/13/13 (besides being an ever so slightly lower frequency) that you said didn't work. I'll really be scratching my head if this one works. Actually, I was scratching when that code didn't work in the first place. According to all the other databases I've checked, it should have.

As I've said before, a $3 remote from ebay plus 15 minutes of your time would have also exposed the correct code. I've often wondered why not go for the cheap, simple solution rather than let this drag out a month.

Anyway, the result will be interesting.


Hi Dave

The "$3" remote option is not out of the question yet.

The time that this has dragged on does't bother me as this is not a top priority....just a nuisance in which I could not recommend the remote to others until corrected. It is very strange that Harmony cannot get an IR code to function when it functioned perfectly and without the necessity to scroll through the TV;s inputs with the Philips Pronto.

I understand that Sylvain stated " our data guys made a change to the VS-60705" which led you to the understand that the "new" IR code is now part of the VS-60705 database.

I would much rather "they" just insert that code into my account as a "test" as they have done before instead of me deleting and re-adding this device to my account to get the latest changes. I do not want to have to reconnect Activities that are using this device and do not want to take any steps to be sure not to change anything in the device's input settings at this time.

Also when Sylvain reads this he can compare the NEW code that was added to the VS-60705 against the IR code that you referenced above. The I will be interested in his assessment of what is different between the two.

I think the easiest and non-invasive why to test this out would be just be, ADD DEVICE>MITS TV TEST. and test it that way

Thanks
Edited by CaptMike - 1/22/14 at 6:51am
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