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Harmony Ultimate, Smart Control and Hub - Page 12

post #331 of 1822
Just realises there was a for fire update needed for the remote. This has seemed to fix the issue...maybe by chance but none the less, it's fixed for now.
post #332 of 1822
Hold down the on button located on top left of remote
post #333 of 1822
I saw the video and it clearly shows you have to put the 'blaster' in front of the tv. Seriously? isn't everyone watching tv? it is a remote for TV? Why wont it directly control a tv? Did I miss something?

Has anyone used it with ATT Uverse? Will it work with the latest Uverse STB?
post #334 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post

farmeroman,

I'm not sure why you think it's clunky, it's fairly small and light, fits easily in one hand, has good ergonomics, and looks good too. If you are thinking of using smartphone app most of the time, then the Ultimate might not be for you, because the Ultimate is made to be your primary interface.

The software brought in my activities from my 890 just fine, for the most part. I had to tweak some activities and that was about it. It will likely bring in all yours too, but if you have a lot of customizations then you can expect to have to do some work, but not a lot.

Lots of remotes include the four colored buttons now, and so the Ultimate has those also. On the touchscreen you can put any buttons you want, so it'd make more sense if you gave those actual names instead of red, green, etc.

I don't see how the IR mini blasters will help you control devices in other rooms. Those have to be plugged into the hub. I'm sure you could set up the remote to control various TVs with it's IR capabilities, but then you'd have to take the remote room to room.

I can't speak to the maximum number of devices, I'm only using about 8 myself.

Thanks for your comments..

I've been thinking about my "clunky" comment and decided that is probably the wrong word. I do think that the return to multiple buttons and a small screen is a retrograde step though; I find that the buttons are usually the first things to go on a remote and that the text tends to wear off of the most commonly used buttons fairly quickly giving the unit a worn appearance (although I have no idea if the ultimate will suffer from this problem) . Would I buy an iPhone 6 if it signalled a return to a 2" screen plus hard number buttons though? No. Would I buy a new iPod if it returned to the "Classic" hard drive, small screen and clickwheel? No (in fact I had to make one working 80GB iPod Classic from one with a broken clickwheel and another with a broken hard drive last week).

I do like Logitech's stuff though and want to like the Ultimate. I have had the Harmony 1000 since 04/2008 and am amazed it's still working without problems, apart from two new batteries (which makes me a little concerned about the wisdom of a fixed battery for the Ultimate) and have had a Squeezebox Duet since 12/2009 (one new battery). I don't like the Duet's remote though (buttons, faux click wheel and too small screen for my liking) but find the iPeng app perfect, so I was hoping that the Harmony app would be as good and I could consign the Ultimate's remote to the charger where it would sit next to the Duet's.

Good news re my activities; I'd hate to have to set them all up from scratch, but can cope with a bit of tweaking. I assumed that the mini blasters communicated with the Hub by RF and could therefore be placed anywhere within the Hub's RF range, but now know they don't; I guess I can get by with using conventional remotes in the kitchen and bedroom then smile.gif.

So maybe it's not for me then, although I don't know what I'll do when the 1000 finally gives up the ghost. I suspect I'll end up with the Ulltimate...
post #335 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli nut View Post

I saw the video and it clearly shows you have to put the 'blaster' in front of the tv. Seriously? isn't everyone watching tv? it is a remote for TV? Why wont it directly control a tv? Did I miss something?

Has anyone used it with ATT Uverse? Will it work with the latest Uverse STB?

The IR blasters don't have to be on the TV unless you are having issues with the remote’s signals controlling it and even if that is the case you can set the Ultimate to send IR commands to the TV only and RF to the Hub for the rest of your equipment. As for the STB, Harmony has nearly all of the STB boxes in their data base and if the one you happen to have is not there than your Ultimate can learn the STB commands from the original remote.
post #336 of 1822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmeroman View Post

Thanks for your comments..

I've been thinking about my "clunky" comment and decided that is probably the wrong word. I do think that the return to multiple buttons and a small screen is a retrograde step though; I find that the buttons are usually the first things to go on a remote and that the text tends to wear off of the most commonly used buttons fairly quickly giving the unit a worn appearance (although I have no idea if the ultimate will suffer from this problem) . Would I buy an iPhone 6 if it signalled a return to a 2" screen plus hard number buttons though? No. Would I buy a new iPod if it returned to the "Classic" hard drive, small screen and clickwheel? No (in fact I had to make one working 80GB iPod Classic from one with a broken clickwheel and another with a broken hard drive last week).

I do like Logitech's stuff though and want to like the Ultimate. I have had the Harmony 1000 since 04/2008 and am amazed it's still working without problems, apart from two new batteries (which makes me a little concerned about the wisdom of a fixed battery for the Ultimate) and have had a Squeezebox Duet since 12/2009 (one new battery). I don't like the Duet's remote though (buttons, faux click wheel and too small screen for my liking) but find the iPeng app perfect, so I was hoping that the Harmony app would be as good and I could consign the Ultimate's remote to the charger where it would sit next to the Duet's.

Good news re my activities; I'd hate to have to set them all up from scratch, but can cope with a bit of tweaking. I assumed that the mini blasters communicated with the Hub by RF and could therefore be placed anywhere within the Hub's RF range, but now know they don't; I guess I can get by with using conventional remotes in the kitchen and bedroom then smile.gif.

So maybe it's not for me then, although I don't know what I'll do when the 1000 finally gives up the ghost. I suspect I'll end up with the Ulltimate...

A good number of people want buttons on their remotes. I really prefer having a remote I can operate without looking at it. I can't imagine that working very well with a touchscreen. Granted on the Ultimate you can have an activity default to the swipe screen, and that I can use without looking, but that's limited in functionality. The controls I use most often when using my HT I can do very easily without looking at the remote, whether it's operating the DVR, or navigating my media on my HTPC, or just getting a blu-ray playing.

Now if you want to see clunky, look at any of the higher end button remotes. URC and Acoustic Research remotes have 40+ buttons, and none of those are very well laid out. The Ultimate is nice and compact compared to the competition, it's well laid out, and I don't think it will confuse or intimidate new users like most other remotes will.

But if you like touchscreen only, then I'm not sure the Harmony line is the best. I'd consider something like iRule or one of the others that works with phones and tablets. Lots of customization, and the price isn't too bad. But for ease of use and setup, and the ability to use blind, the Ultimate is hands down the best option out there.
post #337 of 1822
Sounds like the ultimate is just that. Thanks guys.
post #338 of 1822
I am considering this remote, but I have a complex IR setup, and I want to make sure this will work.

I have a TV and a confined TV stand/equipment cabinet at the front of the room, and an overhead projector at the back. I need at least four little IR flashers inside my cabinet.

Am I right that the base station is an IR blaster that will shoot across the room (15-18 feet) to my projector? Then, could I buy the 4 flasher IR repeater cables to reach all my devices inside the cabinet? There's no way to reach all four devices (piled up on shelves) with only the two supplied flashers, right?

Any help would be appreciated.
post #339 of 1822
The hub will blast across a room and Logitech sells extra IR cables. If you have them already with your setup then you will have to get an adapter for the plugs. Hope that helps.
post #340 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Mickunas View Post

A good number of people want buttons on their remotes...

But if you like touchscreen only, then I'm not sure the Harmony line is the best. I'd consider something like iRule or one of the others that works with phones and tablets. Lots of customization, and the price isn't too bad. But for ease of use and setup, and the ability to use blind, the Ultimate is hands down the best option out there.

I'm sure you're right: buttons, you either love or hate them, even on phones (Blackberry Q10 anyone?). Thanks for the heads-up on the iRule though, I do like the idea of designing my own iPad, iPod, iPhone remote, although I may end up with another Logitech in the end.
post #341 of 1822
Does anyone know if the hub/blaster will control a cisco ipn330hd AT&T uverse In a closet with the supplied hardware? I believe it is RF not IR control
post #342 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffNebraska View Post

I am considering this remote, but I have a complex IR setup, and I want to make sure this will work.

I have a TV and a confined TV stand/equipment cabinet at the front of the room, and an overhead projector at the back. I need at least four little IR flashers inside my cabinet.

Am I right that the base station is an IR blaster that will shoot across the room (15-18 feet) to my projector? Then, could I buy the 4 flasher IR repeater cables to reach all my devices inside the cabinet? There's no way to reach all four devices (piled up on shelves) with only the two supplied flashers, right?

Any help would be appreciated.
Jeff - I was surprised by the strength of the IR signal from the hub direclty Although IR is typically line of sight, my hub is located on a speaker to the right of my HT cabinet (3/4 cherry plywood with solid cherry face framing). There are no doors covering the equipment, but all of my components are clearly not line of sight, nor is the TV. All work very well with only the hub issuing IR signals to the components. I initially put IR blasters on the shelving as well (thinking again LOS was mandatory and the my shelves are the same 3/4 cherry plywood and go fully front to back in the cabinet blocking any true LOS). I didn't have enough blasters to go around, yet all components worked. Eventually pulled all the blasters and the hub is the only thing emitting IR. Your mileage may vary, but I wouldn't have any question about it traveling 15-18 feet and it might just work with a single blaster inside the cabinet. Only trial and error will tell you for sure IMHO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli nut View Post

Does anyone know if the hub/blaster will control a cisco ipn330hd AT&T uverse In a closet with the supplied hardware? I believe it is RF not IR control
The ultimate only uses RF for communication from the remote to the hub. From there it is either IR or bluetooth communication to the components. If I read the documentation on the 330hd, it also receives IR signals from the remote, not RF.

Jeff
post #343 of 1822
Thanks for chiming in Jeff,
Found this- does this mean something?

"Using Your Remote--
When using your remote, whether it be a Scientific Atlanta or Entone Amulet Remote the procedure for operation is the same."
Edited by Heli nut - 7/2/13 at 11:56am
post #344 of 1822
One more question- How many mini blasters will I need? one for each device except the TV I assume? OK two, I hope it will work with apple tv?
post #345 of 1822
I have an apple tv and I'am able to control it with the ultimate remote. It works better then apple remote.
post #346 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli nut View Post

One more question- How many mini blasters will I need? one for each device except the TV I assume? OK two, I hope it will work with apple tv?

I have my hub on my top tv shelf of my entertainment unit and the 2 mini blaster that came with remote by my blu ray player and my DVR. I think that the hub would be enough but I was following the setup guides picture for the placement. There has not been any problem with the setup as far as any missed commands.
post #347 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnnt29 View Post

I have my hub on my top tv shelf of my entertainment unit and the 2 mini blaster that came with remote by my blu ray player and my DVR. I think that the hub would be enough but I was following the setup guides picture for the placement. There has not been any problem with the setup as far as any missed commands.

Like you jnnt29, I also set it up as recommended, but found it was not necessary to have the mini blasters for consistent operation in my setup. The hub has pretty powerful trnasmission. Although it is not the answer I'd like to provide, I think "it depends" is the proper answer, and trying various placements will prove to be the best path.

Jeff
post #348 of 1822
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffCar View Post

Like you jnnt29, I also set it up as recommended, but found it was not necessary to have the mini blasters for consistent operation in my setup. The hub has pretty powerful trnasmission. Although it is not the answer I'd like to provide, I think "it depends" is the proper answer, and trying various placements will prove to be the best path.

Jeff

Jeff I would agree with your statement. My cabinet is open so I think I have the benefit of the IR signal bouncing off of other reflective surfaces. In a completely closed cabinet or AV closet the IR mini blaster would be required to ensure proper signal delivery to the equipment. I have also set up the Hub across the room facing my cabinet and that worked well, but again my entertainment unit is open and the equipment’s IR are not blocked.

Jon
post #349 of 1822
Grabbed the smart control and hub yesterday. Simple setup, hub in closet all works. does not turn on or off tv unless I put the blaster outside the closet.


Now I need an extension cable for the blaster to run it out to the tv., Anybody know what they call the mini blaster plug so I can get an extension cable?


Otherwise it seems to work very well. I really like the small remote.



I think I found I needed to push the volume over and over not just hold it down- Did I see a fix for that somewhere?

Steve
post #350 of 1822
Thread Starter 
The plug the blasters use are just standard 2.5mm connectors. If you can find a headphone extension cable in 2.5mm that will work.
post #351 of 1822
Thanks- I see they are available at my local radio shack. Mono version 2.5mm. I am set.

Steve
post #352 of 1822
Thread Starter 
Stereo will work fine too, just in case they are out or charge more for mono.
post #353 of 1822
Anyone else wish that the favorite channels would max out at 51 instead of 50? This way the last row of favorite channel icons can be filled all the way. As the way it is now it is just wasting screen real estate. Is there any reason why the favorite icons cannot use all the spaces or was 50 just arbitrarily chosen?
post #354 of 1822
I admit after multiple rounds of playing with remotes that the combo of a simple remote with a phone app seems of interest. What my preference would be is just to use an entirely ip based system that avoids all the issues of blasters, IR , blutetooth etc. but include physical buttons on the remote.

Here is a thought for Logitech or anyone else - create a "front side button remote" where the phone can snap on the back. When the phone is face up, the buttons don't work and when the buttons are face up, the "buttons" on the phone wont work. One starts off using the phone side to fire up their complex systems and then can flip over to get all the controls via logically placed buttons. The alternative is also good where the snap on remote to the phone has the buttons below the touchscreen of the phone. I believe there is one lesser known maker that is trying the latter approach out which I hope to find out more about.
post #355 of 1822
Hi,

I tried searching for the answers, but not encountered a thread with my particular queries.
I am planning on buying the Harmony Ultimate hub(s) +/- touch remote

1) If I have 5 items in my rack inside a cabinet, do I need 5 IR blasters or can I stick an IR blaster inbetween shelves to act on 2 devices? Can one hub even support 5 blasters??
2) Do harmony hubs work fully with the Varilight Eclique dimmer switches? How do I control 2 adjacent dimmers separately (I'm guessing there is only a single IR code/command for this dimmer)?
3) I'll be trying to control lights outside of the living room. As I understand, my light switch (which receives IR) will need line-of-sight. Do I use an IR extender for this or is it better to add another hub? How long can the cable length be for such extenders?
4) Are there any recommended window roller blinds that the harmony can control?
5) What is the range (workable distance to device) of each IR blaster?
6) Does the harmony have a trial period (in the UK)?

I know there are many questions - hope someone/logitech harmony team can help!
Many thanks for the advice
post #356 of 1822
I have done my best to answer your questions below in blue. Sylvain and Ian from Logitech are very good resources as well as Keith Mickunas and may be able to provide additional information. JT
Quote:
Originally Posted by domyue View Post

Hi,

I tried searching for the answers, but not encountered a thread with my particular queries.
I am planning on buying the Harmony Ultimate hub(s) +/- touch remote

1) If I have 5 items in my rack inside a cabinet, do I need 5 IR blasters or can I stick an IR blaster inbetween shelves to act on 2 devices? Can one hub even support 5 blasters?? This should be no problem the Hub is very good at sending out signals to the equipment. The Hub has two outputs for the mini Blasters, but others have used Y adaptors to increase the number of mini Blasters when needed.
2) Do harmony hubs work fully with the Varilight Eclique dimmer switches? How do I control 2 adjacent dimmers separately (I'm guessing there is only a single IR code/command for this dimmer)? The Ultimate has the ability to send the IR signal from the remote it self and not the Hub and this should allow you to control the light switches independently.
3) I'll be trying to control lights outside of the living room. As I understand, my light switch (which receives IR) will need line-of-sight. Do I use an IR extender for this or is it better to add another hub? How long can the cable length be for such extenders? I know the Mini Blasters are six feet or longer. For this application maybe the Ultimate Hub would work with an IPhone or Android device to control the lighting in the other room.
4) Are there any recommended window roller blinds that the harmony can control? Don't know. Sorry
5) What is the range (workable distance to device) of each IR blaster? Not sure of the distance
6) Does the harmony have a trial period (in the UK)?

I know there are many questions - hope someone/logitech harmony team can help!
Many thanks for the advice
post #357 of 1822
Our good ol' 890 is on it's last leg so I've been looking at the Ultimate as a replacement. My one concern is battery life. Our 890 seems to last for days without having to charge it at all. What kind of battery life are you all getting with the Ultimate? Or is everyone just in the habit of charging it every night?
post #358 of 1822
Thread Starter 
The battery seems good for several days, but I can't give you a count. I tend to charge it well before it dies. One nice thing about the Ultimate vs. the 890 is that when you sit it in the charger it always connects instantly, whereas I found with my 890s sometimes they had to be jiggled a bit. Mine indicates a full charge at the moment, but I don't remember when I charged it last. I just put it in the charger and will let it sit for a few hours, then I'll see how long I can go before the battery indicator drops way down.

chadn, I can tell you that in my opinion the Ultimate is a huge upgrade from the 890. Better ergonomics (and the 890 isn't bad in that department at all), better feeling buttons, better button placement, the addition of the four color buttons is also nice, and the technology is just better implemented. No more going to the trouble of pulling out the hub every time I make the most minor tweak and then plugging in both devices to update them. Also you'll be able to import your 890 configuration with little trouble.
post #359 of 1822
Hi Ian,
Good to see Harmony on these forums.
I have bought the Harmony ultimate and have some serious problems with it. I do hope this is just because this is a new device and some of these shortfalls will be remied otherwise I am going to have to return it. I can't see answers to any of these questions on this forum or harmony forum so apologies if been asked before.

Had lots of hassle with the silverlight plugin and got it working in firefox only (not on chrome or IE?). I couldn't even get this downloaded at all from your site on the first night so was extremely frustrating to get the device and have to wait 24hrs before I could use it. Please just do this on a CD in future and I'd seriously rethink silverlight as a platform for this.

More seriously though I am having problems on my device setup. The hub installed ok and it saw all my devices with no problem, all of which were recognised on the list which was great so I thought after initial install probs this would be great. Several things I can't seem to resolve with any menu design though which makes it unworkable for me.

1. If a device is not in an activity it is turned of automatically when you switch to that activity. e.g. I have an activity "TV" with a humax box, tv and av amp and another called "GAMES" with ps3, amp and tv. If I switch to TV from GAMES (wanting to do this for a second to check news or start something recording e.g. ) my ps3 switches off!! Likewise the humax switches off when I turn back. Problem is it will shut down mid game or shutting the humax means I have to populate the EPG from scratch which takes 14 mins on my old box. I really DO NOT want to turn anything off but there seems to be no way to stop this happening? Is there really not?

2. I have tried to get around this with an activity with ALL devices turning on (which is pretty crp as I have a DVD,CD,Amp,PS3,Xbox,humax and TV all turning on with this Activity so I thought I could then run multiple sequences to change the amp channel and go into different devices from there. Kind of works but problem is though that I had to pick one main device for controls in the activity and if I press my PS3 sequence, I don't have PS3 controls on the remote. If still has the humax controls (even though is not on that channel). I can't see any way to say at the end of a sequence "map controls to device x". Can this be done? Without this though sequences don't solve this problem.

3. I have all my devices in a power saving power adaptor so on turning the TV off, when it goes to standby, it cuts power to my circuit (powering off ps3,xbox,dvd etc). However it turns these off at the same time, cutting power to the ps3 before its turned off and the PS3 sees an uncontrolled shutdown (going through a checkdsk each time which needs a hard poweron at the device (all remotes stop working at this point). I want to add a delay to shutdown on the activity after ps3, wait 5 secs then turn off tv but it only seems to let me add the delay at the start of the sequence? On the sequence screen I can move the delay but on the activity screen I can't move it. What is the point of that really? I now have to turn the PS3 off seperately (which is a pain as I lost the use of PS3 remote when I paired this...)

4. It is really painful to have to go to a settings menu, pick devices and then PS3 to turn this off or go to device settings. I'd have liked devices at the top level really.

These are basic problems that mean I can't get this to work how I want and they don't seem that complex. I am dissapointed it can't seem to do this for the price I paid. The real problem is I have no real control turning on and off devices and these have been automated for some reason. If I give this to my wife she can press one button and watch one thing at a time I guess before turning on another but it is no use to me switching between games and it destroys the EPG each time my box reboots (so no good for her really) so I really need to be able to remove the "power on/off" stage in the sequence.

Part of the problem is I can't see if these are just software bugs as when I right click on some of the rows in sequences I get the word "silverlight" popping up so really who knows if this is properly installed or not.

Basically if you tell me this can't be solved I will return this device. If it is coming in a future updateI may hold onto it.
Hope you can give me an answer.

I have to admit I have never owned another universal remote (other than the pioneer one which came with amp which half works) but would be suprised if this is normal expected behaviour.
I have loads of other problems with the software, button order in app, ergonomics and shared buttons etc, as everyone does but I could prob live with those if I could solve my problems above.
Thx in advance for answers.
Q
post #360 of 1822
Thread Starter 
jnnt29, I'm afraid I can't answer much of what you are asking other than to say the IR is pretty powerful, and if you use Y-splitters and 2.5mm to 3.5mm adapters you can use whatever IR emitters you want, but getting them to other rooms is pretty tricky.
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