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SEOS 12/ DNA360 / TD12M Mains and Inwall Center Build

post #1 of 150
Thread Starter 
Starting a build thread for my SEOS left and right mains and a inwall with matching components.


my plan is to use the 2 cft. flat-packs for the main. same enclosure and ports as the Tempest with cut-out for the TD12.

im powering them just with my 100 watt per channel (yeah right) Marantz receiver. but will purchase a couple ep2000's soon.


EDIT: i edited this post to reflect my final decisions
Edited by brian6751 - 4/26/13 at 8:21pm
post #2 of 150
I wavered back and forth between the 15m and 15x. If you plan on running these ported, and possibly without a sub for music, I'd recommend the X.

If you are going to be using these with the subs and/or crossed at 80 hz the M would be the better fit.

When I modeled the 15m in ported mode, it only took about 150 watts to push them past xmax with a 50hz tune.

John also mentioned the M is a better sounding driver (how much so I'm not sure) due to the different surround material.
post #3 of 150
Thread Starter 
i was also contemplating going with the BMS 4550. not sure if there is a xover done with the td12m and the 4550 yet though
post #4 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

i was also contemplating going with the BMS 4550. not sure if there is a xover done with the td12m and the 4550 yet though
There will be a design available in the not so distant future. I am waiting on the 4550s to arrive. When they do I plan on contacting someone to do the design/build for the crossover. It will be posted for anyone that wants to copy it. Build will be the 3 port Tempest with TD12M & 4550 as the CD. I am using the 2 cu ft flatpacks also.
Chris W
post #5 of 150
Brian,

I will have 2 4550's available from my current build if you need a pair. I ordered a couple extra just in case. smile.gif
post #6 of 150
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by countryWV View Post


There will be a design available in the not so distant future. I am waiting on the 4550s to arrive. When they do I plan on contacting someone to do the design/build for the crossover. It will be posted for anyone that wants to copy it. Build will be the 3 port Tempest with TD12M & 4550 as the CD. I am using the 2 cu ft flatpacks also.
Chris W

is your name "wagnerwv" on the DIY site? did you hear anything about the baffles yet? i haven't gotten a response email yet.
post #7 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

is your name "wagnerwv" on the DIY site? did you hear anything about the baffles yet? i haven't gotten a response email yet.
Yes that's me.
I have not heard from him since Monday but it does take sometime to get the custom baffles cut. I am waiting to get all the parts in hand before I start. It is less frustrating that way.smile.gif
AVS has taught me more about patience than audio.rolleyes.gif
Chris W
post #8 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by countryWV View Post

AVS has taught me more about patience than audio.rolleyes.gif
Chris W

You obviously have been visiting a different AVS site than I have. biggrin.gif
post #9 of 150
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

You obviously have been visiting a different AVS site than I have. biggrin.gif

i understand the waiting. i appreciate everything Erich does. its pretty remarkable. i just get worried that my messages aren't even getting to him is all.
post #10 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

You obviously have been visiting a different AVS site than I have. biggrin.gif
Reality is I feel like you did 3 weeks ago but I am trying my best to relax, take deep breaths, and type out the word patience b/c I wish I had some.wink.gif
Chris W
post #11 of 150
Brian
At first I ordered the X model but changed it to the M since I am crossing over at 80hz and don't need anything lower. I too am under the impression that the M series has a little better SQ over the X but X has the extension if its needed.
Chris W
post #12 of 150
Thread Starter 
yeah, im set on the M as well and ill order them this weekend.

now the 4550 vs. 360 --

ive read there may be no difference in sound between these two. there is also a xover for the TD12M and 360 already designed soooooooo. im wondering how long it will take to get a TD12M/4550 xover made.

decisions. decisions......
post #13 of 150
I weighed that as well. I almost went with the TD12m/SEOS12/360 route as it had a xover already designed. Seeing as I needed a xover for some other speakers as well; I decided to bite the bullet and go with the 4550's.

I wouldn't put all of my stock in the initial impressions between the 4550 and 360. I would like to see how the 4550 integrates with the AE woofers compared to the 360. We might all be surprised, or we might be back to the initial impressions of splitting hairs.
post #14 of 150
I really thought long and hard about going with the bms 4550 and selling my 360's, but Erich convinced me there would not be that much difference between the two.
post #15 of 150
I too am curious as to how the DNA-360 would compare to try BMS-4550. I have read others say that they "thought" they sound very close, but I have yet to come across anyone who has done a side by side comparison. Brian6751 we are hoping that you can post your subjective opinions soon!
post #16 of 150
Erich told me on April 8 that he previously put the custom baffles order in at the CNC shop, and that he had expected them finished by then, but that they have been dragging their feet. My deduction was that his landscaping business (his primary income) has started to get busy and he doesn't have a whole lot of time to follow up with the CNC company to discuss logistics.
post #17 of 150
I am waiting for him to put it on the DIysoundgroup website and I will be picking up these baffles too.
post #18 of 150
Thread Starter 
I'll wait to hear from him. It will be a while before the x over is done anyway. But if its going to be crazy long, I'll just take the blank baffles and make my own cuts. Not that big of a deal. I was just trying to go easy as possible on this build.
post #19 of 150
I just hate working with MDF. The dust wrecks me, no matter what I do. But, precut baffles are awesome because the routing work is the toughest to get just right. Hell, I've even been thinking about buying the flat packs, then trying my hand at veneering everything but the baffle.

Of course, I also have considered doing something completely different from the typical rectangular box design...
post #20 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

I was just trying to go easy as possible on this build.

What fun would that be? biggrin.gif
post #21 of 150
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

What fun would that be? biggrin.gif

yeah right?

i dont know. cutting circle after circle after circle gets old after a while. not to mention doing the other home improvements. would be nice to do something easy for a change.
post #22 of 150
Thread Starter 
So. I'm wondering how shallow of an enclosure I could go with these. I'm getting a at screen and will bump out the screen. No room for false wall. I'm already only 9' away.

I would like to bump it out as little as possible and was thinking of making a third one of these that fits into the wall. I could make it taller to make up for the depth.
post #23 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

So. I'm wondering how shallow of an enclosure I could go with these. I'm getting a at screen and will bump out the screen. No room for false wall. I'm already only 9' away.

I would like to bump it out as little as possible and was thinking of making a third one of these that fits into the wall. I could make it taller to make up for the depth.

I just started a thread as well with regards to a SEOS in-wall build, so I definitely watching your thread as well smile.gif
post #24 of 150
Thread Starter 
I saw that but wasn't sure if this qualified or not. If it turns into part of my build I'll be sure to add it over there.

I think it's a good idea. Especially with the proliferation of at screens and not everyone can do a false wall.
post #25 of 150
Thread Starter 
im actually going to just go with the DNA 360 for this build to save a little cash. maybe a upgrade in the future? who knows.
post #26 of 150
There have been many members on this forum that are happy with the 360, so I am sure you will not be disappointed.
post #27 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

EDIT:

i decided to go with the TD12M and the DNA 360 for this build.

Hey Brian. You're going to love them. Good call on the 360's, they perform very well. I've got one 4550 that I'm going to use in another build since I have it already. I may eventually simulate and build the crossover for the TD12M/SEOS-12 speaker using the 4550, no intentions on comparing the two, just building it with what I've got. cool.gif

-Nate
post #28 of 150
Thread Starter 
I'm sure I will like it. The 4550 was going to be a "hell why not" kinda thing up until the "hell I'm in trouble" thing set in smile.gif

I'm looking forward to using the 2 cft flat packs and custom baffles with these. Erich got back with me on those and AE says 2-3 weeks on the drivers.
post #29 of 150
Thread Starter 
looks like im going to get started on the box for the inwall first. mtg90 is helping me by designing the network. he does this using pure mind power because hes that awesome. so basically i come up with a crazy idea. He makes it actually work biggrin.gif

the goal with this inwall is as follows:

1. use the same TD12M driver with the DNA-360 as my mains

2. make box big enough for a tune that works well with a 80Hz cross over

3. stick out from the wall only far enough as absolutely necessary

4. be an attractive option for others that cannot do a false wall and are looking for a high performance inwall solution


After a few God awful Google sketches involving using half my front wall cavity as an enclosure, Matt and I decided a 1 cft. box would work best. this allows for a tune of 50Hz and an F3 of 80Hz (thanks Matt). the TD12M driver is just barley over 6.5" tall, so is the SEOS 12 and 360. we are using two 2" ports each 5" long. making the box 7.25" deep and then adding a double baffle will give everything about 8" of breathing room when surface mounted. that leaves plenty of room for some insulation.

i ended up with a box 14.25" wide. 34" tall. and 7.25" deep not counting the extra baffle. im going with a 14.25" width because 16" on center studs tend to be just 14.5 inches apart. the 14.25" width will allow for shimming if needed.

my local lumber yard (Mans Lumber in Canton, MI) is pretty awesome. i come up with a cutlist on an iPhone ap, call them up. order the material. email them the cutlist. and they call me a few days later when its done. pretty cool huh?

here is the cutlist i am using on this build

Td12m Inwall Project.pdf 77k .pdf file

two of the 12.75x5.75 pieces will be used for the top and bottom caps. the others i will cut holes in and use as window bracing. then all i have to do is cut out the hole for the driver and WG and im all set.
post #30 of 150
Sounds cool Brian. I thought you went with the TD12x? Did that change?

P.S. Leave Matt alone until he's finished with my project. tongue.gif
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