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Sony mentions new HT-c660 soundbar - Page 3

post #61 of 92
I'm planning to buy one once it goes on sale below $300. I got my current Sony soundbar for free with an HDTV purchase from the Sony Store, so I'm in no hurry to spend money to upgrade.
post #62 of 92
I just purchased this on Ebay, brand new for $348.59 shipped. Ordered it yesterday and arrived today! Can't wait to go home and hook it up.

This is for my bedroom. I currently have a Philips HSB2313A soundbar in the bedroom. Actually, I really like this soundbar and subwoofer. You can't beat the price ($149) for the sound you get from it.. The problem was that there was fan noise on the sub and also noise on the soundbar itself and it just started having issues with turning on and you would get a blank screen. This had 2 HDMI In/1 HDMI Out. After further research, many customers had this issue. I have only had it for a year and a half.

Looking forward to hearing the Sony.
post #63 of 92
Pls let me know / help me pls

- have you tried to use that soundbar without subwoofer? is than the sound better than just from tv

- have you considered to use it as central speaker for HT5.1? how to make the connection by tv or directly to amp?

thx
post #64 of 92
I recently bought this soundbar and am a little confused about the best way to connect it to my LG Smart TV (which supports ARC). I'd like to know how other owners have theirs connected.

Initially, I had all components (cable box, Blu-Ray and Apple TV) connected directly to the TV via HDMI, with the provided optical cable from the TV to the soundbar. The only downside to that was my inability to have the TV and soundbar on/off in unison, and theoretically I could get better sound from the Blu-Ray by not using optical (not sure if I'd really notice the difference, though).

So I bought a new HDMI cable and ran everything through the soundbar, using the ARC port to connect the soundbar to the TV. So now I use the soundbar as the switcher instead of the TV. This is causing some weird behavior with my TV's CEC function turned on. If I turn on the soundbar first, I get the TV's sound but no video. So I turn on the TV, but then when I turn it off, the soundbar does turn off automatically (which is good). But then sometimes when I turn on the TV, the soundbar resets to the TV input instead of staying on HDMI 1--the problem being there is no audio directly from the TV anymore (because I ditched the optical).

My next step is to move all HDMI cables back to the TV, but with HDMI connecting the TV and soundbar instead of optical. That seems like it should restore some consistency in how things work, but also pass through better audio (and perhaps enable proper CEC syncing between TV and soundbar).

How do you all connect this soundbar to your TV?
post #65 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by VandyNole View Post

I recently bought this soundbar and am a little confused about the best way to connect it to my LG Smart TV (which supports ARC). I'd like to know how other owners have theirs connected.

How do you all connect this soundbar to your TV?

VandyNole,
I have Panasonic P60VT60 and initially connected the sound bar the same way that you did.... optical cable from TV to the soundbar. However, I noticed, and read in the manual, that Dolby TrueHD and many of the other popular formats are only functional through the HDMI connection. As a result, I ended up using the sound bar as a switcher as well. Not my preference, but that's how it is for now.
As far as how my setup works...
-TV to Sound Bar using HDMI ARC on TV to ARC input on Sound Bar.
-Blu-Ray player to Sound Bar using HDMI 1
-XBox360 to Sound Bar using HDMI 2
-Cable Box to Sound Bar using HDMI 3
If I turn on the TV the sound bar turns itself on and defaults to the input of whatever I was using last. So, if I was watching a movie from my Blu-Ray player, it would show HDMI 1. However, when my TV powers up I have it defaulting to my SmartTV menu. However, what I don't hear are my SmartTV menu movement. I don't really care about that. If I chose a SmartTV menu option, like Netflix, then my input automatically changes to TV and sound works as expected. If I turn off the TV, the sound bar powers off as expected. Turning the power to the TV back on, the Sound Bar assumes last HDMI input.

So, other than the TV menu sounds not working, everything operates as I would expect.
post #66 of 92
Thanks, Rick Pott. It sounds like Panasonic's version of CEC works a little better than LG's with this soundbar.

Last night, I tried using the TV as the switcher but with HDMI ARC connecting the TV to the soundbar, but I got no audio. That doesn't seem to make any sense, so perhaps it was user error.
post #67 of 92
Hmm, so how does this soundbar compare to the HT-CT 150? How much of a difference is there with the 660 being able to decode Lossless?
post #68 of 92
I can't make an overall comparison, but decoding lossless shouldn't make any difference assuming your BD player can do the decoding. The CT-150 can accept multi-channel in. Besides, with a soundbar it's pretty doubtful that you'd hear differences between lossy and lossless.
post #69 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post

I can't make an overall comparison, but decoding lossless shouldn't make any difference assuming your BD player can do the decoding. The CT-150 can accept multi-channel in. Besides, with a soundbar it's pretty doubtful that you'd hear differences between lossy and lossless.

I beg to differ. I hear a big difference between lossy audio and lossless on my Sony soundbar. It can often be like night and day depending on the quality of the audio mix.
post #70 of 92
Hi there. I recently purchased my Sony W8 TV and I m considering the CT660 for improving my TVs sound

few questions I want to ask from people owning the Bar or have knowledge on the matter.

If I connect the soundbar with the TV through the ARC HDMI, will other devices connected on the TVs HDMIs input, output sound on the soundbar, or do only devices connected on the Soundbar's HDMI inputs output on the soundbar?

Does HDMI inputs on the soundbar increase input lag for gaming devices such as Xbox or Playstation?

Thank you for your answers
post #71 of 92
I just bought this sound bar, and so far I'm using the optical connection to my Pany TC-P58V10 TV for sound.

The question I have is, will I be able to take advantage of the Dolby TrueHD and dts-HD if my TV doesn't support ARC-HDMI? Thanks in advance.
post #72 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by LN2008 View Post

I just bought this sound bar, and so far I'm using the optical connection to my Pany TC-P58V10 TV for sound.

The question I have is, will I be able to take advantage of the Dolby TrueHD and dts-HD if my TV doesn't support ARC-HDMI? Thanks in advance.

ARC has nothing to do with it. You need to connect your BD player directly to the sound bar via HDMI for lossless audio. If you connect to the TV, the best you get is lossy and, possibly, only 2 ch. stereo.
post #73 of 92
Thanks for the quick reply. I've tried your suggestion, which get great sound but no way to get the picture onto the TV. If I use another HDMI to go from the bar to TV, I get the picture, but then the sound cut-in and out. I'm open to any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
post #74 of 92
Odd. For the BD player, connecting via HDMI directly to the soundbar and then running a separate HDMI from the soundbar HDMI-out to any HDMI-in port on the TV should be giving you both great sound and picture. Some things to try: different HDMI cables into different ports on both the soundbar and TV. Disconnect the optical cable from TV. Let's see if any of those fixes the issue. Also check settings on BD player to be sure you're bitstreaming. Once we get that working right, we can look at any other source devices you may have. Optimally, you want all your source devices connecting to the soundbar.
post #75 of 92
Well, I ended up returning the sound bar. After a few weeks of doing more research on the HDMI (ARC) input, I decided to give it another try and picked up another HT-C660 from Best Buy. I got them to match the price on Amazon. The new sound bar works as advertised. I'm getting great sound directly from the sources to the bar now. I guess my first bar was defective out of the box. Thanks Possumgirl for your help.
post #76 of 92

Does anybody know if this soundbar is rated 100-240V?

 

Not sure if anyone bought it from US/Jap site and used it in countries with 240V.

post #77 of 92
The sub is rated at ~120V @60Hz, so I'm assuming the sound bar is the same for the US market.
post #78 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Possumgirl View Post


ARC has nothing to do with it. You need to connect your BD player directly to the sound bar via HDMI for lossless audio. If you connect to the TV, the best you get is lossy and, possibly, only 2 ch. stereo.

 

I have recently installed my HT-CT660 as follows: Sony PS4 (AUDIO OUT set to Linear PCM) --> Sharp Aquos 80LE632U TV via HDMI --> Sony HT-CT660 via ARC HDMI.

 

My question is; what theoretical differences will my ears hear if I connect my source (PS4) directly to the soundbar instead of using the TV's ARC? I was under the impression that Linear PCM to the TV via HDMI, which is then sent to the soundbar via the TV HDMI ARC would give the best possible sound. If this is not the case, what changes would you recommend?

 

PS: As for AUDIO OUT, I have these options available:

 

PS4    -HDMI or Digital Optical AUDIO OUT (both formats can be set to ONE of the three options below)

          -Linear PCM, 

          -Bitstream (Dolby)

          -Bitstream (DTS).

 

TV      -HDMI ARC

          -Digital Optical

 

Thanks for any input, theory or suggestions!

post #79 of 92
The 770 has been announced at CES. Looks like the same soundbar on the inside but with a radically different physical design for the bar speaker. Ships in April.
post #80 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElbowRocket View Post

I have recently installed my HT-CT660 as follows: Sony PS4 (AUDIO OUT set to Linear PCM) --> Sharp Aquos 80LE632U TV via HDMI --> Sony HT-CT660 via ARC HDMI.

My question is; what theoretical differences will my ears hear if I connect my source (PS4) directly to the soundbar instead of using the TV's ARC? I was under the impression that Linear PCM to the TV via HDMI, which is then sent to the soundbar via the TV HDMI ARC would give the best possible sound. If this is not the case, what changes would you recommend?

PS: As for AUDIO OUT, I have these options available:

PS4    -HDMI or Digital Optical AUDIO OUT (both formats can be set to ONE of the three options below)
          -Linear PCM, 
          -Bitstream (Dolby)
          -Bitstream (DTS).

TV      -HDMI ARC
          -Digital Optical

Thanks for any input, theory or suggestions!

Just connect your PS4 to the soundbar. It decodes LPCM.
post #81 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by LexInVA View Post


Just connect your PS4 to the soundbar. It decodes LPCM.

 

I just got finished setting everything up again, this time routing my three devices directly to the soundbar via HDMI and I have gotten some significant, unexpected results. 

 

I'm not sure why, but the sound quality has increased ten fold over the ARC set up I was using earlier. It seems like the TV must have been degrading the quality of what was being sent to the soundbar somehow - it almost sounded like music being played through a guitar amplifier when anything other than the non-spatialized Sound Fields were active. 

 

That being said, the Sound Field options all sound great now (unrecognizable from what they sounded like with the ARC as the input) and I'm finding it difficult to believe that sound of this quality can be had for less than $400!

 

Thanks for the reply LexInVA!

post #82 of 92

Hey guys, I just joined the forums and actually just bought a HT-C660 yesterday. I originally had the optical chord connected straight from the soundbar to the TV... then I got to reading this thread and tried experimenting. Could u all tell me if I did this correctly?

 

I have a HDMI from the ARC HDMI port on the soundbar to the ARC on the TV. I disconnected my cable box HDMI and my PS3 HDMI from the TV and connected them to the first and second HDMI ports on the soundbar. Then I completely removed the optical chord that came with the soundbar. It seems simple, but I'm a newbie, so did I do this right? Thanks!

post #83 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisslyman View Post

Hey guys, I just joined the forums and actually just bought a HT-C660 yesterday. I originally had the optical chord connected straight from the soundbar to the TV... then I got to reading this thread and tried experimenting. Could u all tell me if I did this correctly?

I have a HDMI from the ARC HDMI port on the soundbar to the ARC on the TV. I disconnected my cable box HDMI and my PS3 HDMI from the TV and connected them to the first and second HDMI ports on the soundbar. Then I completely removed the optical chord that came with the soundbar. It seems simple, but I'm a newbie, so did I do this right? Thanks!

Unless I am missing something, or more importantly, unless you are missing something, that sounds 100%.

If you have sound playback from all of your components and no issue with video from soundbar to TV, you have nothing to worry about.
post #84 of 92
I just set mine up. So far, I love it. Definitely better than the CT100 that it is replacing. I had to do some serious tweaking to get it working properly whereas the CT100 just seemed to work and sound right out of the box because it had minimal adjustment options. I had to set my Blu-Ray player audio output to wide-range - instead of auto - and I had to disable the concurrent setting in the Amp Menu as well as adjust the tone and sound levels to obtain full sound instead of the bad hollow/limp sound that some reviewers have reported.
Edited by LexInVA - 1/12/14 at 4:09pm
post #85 of 92

Coming from my budget 2.0 Pioneer Tower Speaker setup to this it performs at about the level I would expect. Music should only be listened to in Stereo mode as the rest are awfully processed.

 

I think one of the major points to mention here may have been due to the lack of a sub in our last setup as my wife said immediately she felt the sound bar sounded better than the floor standing speakers.

 

Do soundbar speakers also become more refined after use? Never had any experience with one before but it seems they have settled down a little already compared to the first hour of use?

post #86 of 92
The small inexpensive drivers on a soundbar change very little as they age. What you hear out of the box is what you get from then on. Unless you overdrive the unit and damage one of the drivers.
post #87 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by drfreeman60 View Post

The small inexpensive drivers on a soundbar change very little as they age. What you hear out of the box is what you get from then on. Unless you overdrive the unit and damage one of the drivers.

Can these soundbars even be overdriven? There's not much overhead.

I bought one for my father just after Christmas when Sony's store had them on sale for about $230. He is severely hearing impaired (virtually deaf without his hearing aids), so I was hoping that a soundbar would help him understand dialogue better. Surprisingly it hasn't; he actually thinks it's worse than the tv and has been cranking the volume louder as a result. I had to disconnect the sub just to keep him from running mom out of the room at the volumes he listens to. Yet despite listening at volumes twice as loud, despite the voice clarity options and dialogue enhancing sound modes, like "drama" and "news", he says he still can't understand voices as well. He pretty much leaves it at 50 (max volume) where mom will usually watch around 25. 50 is plenty loud, but I'm still a bit surprised it won't go louder: Most devices I'm familiar with are capable of being driven to the point of distortion, at 50 the soundbar doesn't sound like it's anywhere near that point.

Actually the speakers in the Sony Bravia LED I bought them about seven years ago can go louder than this soundbar, though they're not as articulate, especially at lower volumes - which I think the lack of clarity has more to do with the TV's inability to effectively process lossless multi-channel audio for stereo output. Overall, the tv appears to have better midrange reproduction, where the soundbar seems overly bright, like the last Sony AVR I owned about 15 years ago, regardless of the sound settings I've tried.

Their Bravia doesn't say it supports ARC, so I set the soundbar up as a switcher as well. It would be nice if there was a way to get the soundbar menus to display on the TV, as the display on the soundbar itself is a bit too small and dim to easily read from 10 or more feet away.
post #88 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Varnadore View Post


I was hoping that a soundbar would help him understand dialogue better. Surprisingly it hasn't; he actually thinks it's worse than the tv and has been cranking the volume louder as a result. I had to disconnect the sub just to keep him from running mom out of the room at the volumes he listens to. Yet despite listening at volumes twice as loud, despite the voice clarity options and dialogue enhancing sound modes, like "drama" and "news", he says he still can't understand voices as well.

 

It almost sounds like a signal malfunction of some kind to me.

 

I've had no issues with voice clarity, or volume level of voices on my HT-CT660. In fact, I can't imagine having to increase the voice level setting from the default of 0. I can see how some people may be put off from the amount of bass the Sub gives, but at my preferred volume level range of 15-30 the voices are perfect and balanced with the rest of the sound. I've noticed a small reduction in voice and midrange levels while switching from the "Movie" sound field to the "Game" sound field, but it's barely noticeable. I like my bass on the heavy side so I leave the sub setting at 0. The -2 setting on the sub seems to tame it nicely. The Bass tone control just seems to add too much mud at the 100-150hz range to the rest of the sound bar if it's over 0. Treble setting seems fine at 0 as well.

 

I'm inputting a 5.1 and/or 7.1 PCM signal directly into the sound bar via HDMI from all of my media players. I have it mounted above my screen at approx 6ft from the floor with the bottom angle down (the drivers facing straight ahead). I have the sound bar settings all at default levels and prefer a volume of 20-30 and it sounds great in the room I have it in. Both my Stepfather, and my Father Inlaw, both very hard of hearing, haven't had any issues with dialog after a slight (yet still comfortable for the rest of us) volume increase.

 

I did notice however, it sounded strangely bad while using both the optical input (5.1 from source, 2.0 from TV ) and also the ARC HDMI from the TV sounded off. I couldn't quite put my finger on it, but to my ears, it definitely sounds better when connected directly to the source via HDMI.

 

I hope some (if any) of this info will help you, I know how frustrating unbalanced sound can be when it comes to voice levels. If you still can't get the voices to sound right, turn on DRC and Night mode and at least your Mother will thank you :P

 

Good luck :)

post #89 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElbowRocket View Post

It almost sounds like a signal malfunction of some kind to me.

Sounds more t me like he has a hearing problem that only spans the normal vocal frequency range. This can certainly happen. Hearing loss can cover the whole sound spectrum, or only a portion of it. If that is the case, perhaps a hearing aid that amplifies only that range may help.
post #90 of 92
I'm watching The Dark Knight Rises and the audio sounds like soupy mush with this soundbar. I think it's because of the mixing levels which are very hot. Anyone else have the same to report?
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