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subwoofer fuse keeps blowing.

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
My grandfathers main sub woofer quit working a few months ago, he said i could keep it if i got it working. It just quit working one day and he wanted to upgrade anyways so he never tried to fix it. I noticed the fuse was blown so i bought a few and every time i replace it and turn it on the power light doesn't come on or anything, and when i take the fuse back out it is already blown. This is just plugging it in. Its not hooked up to a receiver or anything. I have no experience with anything like this so that's about all i can do by myself. If pictures or even a video would help i can take the back off and take a few. The sub is a 15" AR ars115psb

Any help would be appreciated. thanks!
post #2 of 13
The fuse blows because there's a fault in the amp. It's probably cheaper to replace the amp than fix it, assuming the driver is OK.
post #3 of 13
Assuming you like to learn new things, grab a copy of this book from your library - http://www.amazon.com/How-Diagnose-Fix-Everything-Electronic/dp/0071744223
post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

The fuse blows because there's a fault in the amp. It's probably cheaper to replace the amp than fix it, assuming the driver is OK.
how would i go about changing the amp? Where would i buy a replacement?
post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
how would this sub compare to a PSW505? I found one for $120 on craigslist. Thats probably close to the cost of how much it would cost to fix this one
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
i decided on repairing this one.. any one know a good plate amplifier i can use in this sub?
post #7 of 13
Many people use plate amplifiers from Parts Express. I have two. You can go to the Parts Express web site to look at the sizes, etc.
If the plate is a fairly close fit, it is merely a matter of unscrewing the one plate amp, disconnecting the plate amp from the driver (speaker) and reversing the order with the new plate amp. You should also do the 9 volt battery test where the connect to the + and - terminals on the speaker. If it moves, it is probably ok.
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
could you recommend me one? I honestly have no idea on which one to pick.
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
bump anyone?
Edited by austin8868 - 5/11/13 at 4:03pm
post #11 of 13
It might work---but will it work well? Tough to answer.

Subwoofer amplifiers from major manufacturers will have all sorts of filtering and limiters set precisely for their product. It's a one in a hundred shot that these two different subs from different manufacturers would have a similar filter structure. Now, if the filters are quite different the amp may still operate and provide bass for quite a long time. Or, it may operate and provide bass for quite a short time. There is just no way to say for certain. In either scenario....the bass may or may not be an accurate representation of the source material. By that I mean----the internal EQing is likely quite different between these amps too. So you will have some peaks/dips that you didn't have before. These could be minor and barely noticeable. Or, they could be major and very annoying. Again, impossible to say without electrically measuring each amp.

At the end of the day, I'd take the advice offered previously....look for a good $100-$200 subwoofer instead of spending $100 on an amp like this.

Tom V.
post #12 of 13
Thread Starter 
thanks tom, as i mentioned earlier i found a polk psw505 for $100.. Would that be worth it?
post #13 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by austin8868 View Post

thanks tom, as i mentioned earlier i found a polk psw505 for $100.. Would that be worth it?

New, with warranty? Yeah, that's a very good deal imo. You will likely see similar performance to the old AR 15"...although I can't point to any hard data for that opinion. Just based on what little I could find on the AR.

Tom V.
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