Originally Posted by JRock3x8
anxious to hear more here.
Alright JRock....sorry for inadvertently hijacking a bit of your thread!!!
I think you are covered on electricity, but FWIW....one dedicated line for the code-mandated receptacles in the room, one dedicated line for the lighting, one dedicated line for the subs (or powerbridged back to the equipment rack for electrification through a power protection unit), powerbridge the projector power back to the rack and connect to a UPS, and I like to put one circuit in the riser that is separate from the room's receptacles for motorized chairs and whatever else you have going on (assuming you have a riser, of course). That's it.
For wiring to the projector you would have a 14/2 Romex powerbridged back to the rack, of course. My personal preference is four cat-6 wires to the projector from the rack location - two shielded and two unshielded. The two shielded will allow you to run the latest HDMI signal over a high-quality baluns system. Don't fall into the trap of continuously upgrading high-quality HDMI cables for years on end. Two shielded Cat-6s cover the bandwidth with protection from interference and will remain the same for a long time to come. For the two unshielded Cat-6 wires, I use one for networking/IP control directly to the projector, and the last Cat6 for either triggers, RS-232 commands, etc. That's literally ALL you need, nothing more. If you have a motorized masking system for your screen or an anamorphic lens, the best way to handle these is through the projector's trigger outs for normal operation. If you are a total control nerd with the masking, then you'll have to run a trigger wire from the screen to your control system, independent of the projector's trigger for the lens. Separate power, control and ventilation ducts would need to be run to the projector location if you installed a hush box.
For HVAC, there are many, many ways to approach this area, but I always recommend hiring out an HVAC engineer to design the system. He will perform a total load calculation which takes into account BTUs from body heat, BTUs from electronic equipment, level of insulation, number of windows, etc. to determine how many CFM of conditioned air is needed for the room. Once this is determined, the question becomes how to get there.
By far the best method is a separate, dedicated system. That's followed by zoning an existing system (assuming you have the capacity) and then simply supplying / returning air through the HVAC system (no zoning) and finally with forced ventilation-only, as is the case with a dead vent with powered in-line fan. No matter which system you use, the thermal load calculation remains, as do the goals of a theater HVAC:
- Target noise level of NC22 or less with the system fully operational - so decouple/isolate the HVAC system itself, use flex or lined rigid ducts, 90 degree elbows to kill sound waves, bar diffusers (less than 250 fpm), oversized return air duct to reduce air turbulence while preserving CFM, etc.)
- 6 air changes per hour and 15 cfm of fresh air per person (target mentioned by this Forum's Illuminati)
Then there are the finer points, such as using a thermostat that can interact with a control system and getting a system with a variable speed blower, etc. So provided your HVAC engineer has the load calculations, the system design goals wrt noise levels, materials to use, etc., you should be able to have a comfortable room without the noise. More goes into it than my oversimplification above, but there is no hard and fast guideline since rooms, systems and designs are completely unique in every single house / theater.
I hope this information helps and others will chime in on this as well.