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Green Blob back again for 2013! - Page 2

Poll Results: What model ST60 do you own and does it have the green blob?

 
  • 30% (3)
    Yes, it has the green blob on my 50st60
  • 0% (0)
    Yes, it has the green blob on my 55st60
  • 0% (0)
    Yes, it has the green blob on my 60st60
  • 0% (0)
    Yes, it has the green blob on my 65st60
  • 10% (1)
    No, does not have the green blob on my 50st60
  • 40% (4)
    No, does not have the green blob on my 55st60
  • 20% (2)
    No, does not have the green blob on my 60st60
  • 0% (0)
    No, does not have the green blob on my 65st60
10 Total Votes  
post #31 of 61
Which part of the test point am I supposed to place the red probe on - and is the test point the white screw or is it up where it says vsus? I'm not finding a spot that gives a consistent reading, the wires coming out of the gray capacitor up where it says vsus give me either .4 (upper wire) or 0 (lower wire). That number doesn't seem anywhere near the 100-200v range discussed (screen says mV up above the number reading - I'm not clear if the mV means the resolution of the reading, or that actual value).
post #32 of 61
tom pointed out something I forgot when talking about it. You need the black reader on a ground point. Doesn't matter which ground, any ground. You could use the metal panel as he said, or find a solder point with GND labeled on it. Then you put the red reader on the solder point of the VSUS cap where it meets the PCB. Try both sides, but be sure the signal is grounded first. Black always means ground, red always means hot. You use red to test. I originally said to put both points on the solder points for VSUS because I assumed one would be ground, but I guess I'm wrong? Too bad I don't have my ST60 anymore or I could help you out step by step and take photos.

Test the cap as that's the only VSUS point I remember seeing in the ST60.
post #33 of 61
Well I think you could be right that one of the solder points is grounded, because when I have the black on metal and the red on the lower solder point, the reading is zero. When I place the black on metal (basically I'm sitting it in a screw hole on the TV's metal chassis so I'm not touching it when doing readings) and then red on the upper solder point, the reading is 0.4. Also, when I have the black on the lower solder point and red on the upper, the reading is also 0.4.

I get the impression 0.4 doesn't make sense as a reading, or is there further computation to be done? It's a brand new multimeter (admittedly a cheap one, as you'll see from the 20 dollar Amazon price tag), so I would hope it's not an issue with the meter, but maybe if there's some other common household item you know of that I could check (safely) as a control variable to ensure the meter is reading numbers correctly.
post #34 of 61
Nope .4 definitely doesn't make sense as a reading, something isn't configured right.

Do you have the black needle jacked into the center jack and the red on the right or left?
post #35 of 61
Just to make sure, the set is switched on and displaying an image right?
post #36 of 61
Black is in the center jack, red is in the right jack.

The TV works when I plug it in, but Moonchilde had mentioned unplugging to discharge before working - so I'm now getting the impression I should be taking the readings with the TV on? That would of course make sense on a very fundamental level, haha, but I may have misinterpreted what Moonchilde was originally discussing with me.
post #37 of 61
While making voltage measurements, the set should be turned on, for anything else, the set should be off.
post #38 of 61
It's been a while since I used a meter, I recall having to unplug and discharge the electronics I was testing. Maybe it was something else I was measuring and not volts. My bad.
post #39 of 61
No worries at all, Moonchilde.

That makes more sense - reading 213V now when powered on. So I'm assuming it will need to be tweaked to a lower voltage, but I'll wait to hear some feedback from tom before doing anything else.
post #40 of 61
I believe tom said no more than 210. Let me double check....
Quote:
You need to find the VSUS test point and trim pot and adjust that to the panel spec, usually hand written by the engineer who tested your panel. Then find the VE test point and trim pot, and adjust that to spec. If the picture still appears poor, the VSUS may need to be increased beyond nominal rating, though the maximum limit of 210V should typically be observed, depending on panel technology. I'd not generally go higher than 5V from the panel spec.

So maybe drop it by 5v to see what happens. It won't hurt to turn it down a little. Sadly, I don't recall ever seeing any engineer's writing anywhere on the inside of my ST60 panel dictating what the voltage should be. If you see a change in the picture, maybe try dropping it by steps of 2 until your blob clears up. Hopefully it doesn't get worse, that would mean you'd need to increase it and tom already doesn't recommend beyond 210 and you're already at 213.
post #41 of 61
Yes, I definitely recall him saying no higher than 210. Any idea which direction on the white screw (pot) would turn it down? And I take it the set should be off when adjusting, so I won't be able to read the measurement until I turn it back on after adjusting.
post #42 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivy Mike View Post

Yes, I definitely recall him saying no higher than 210. Any idea which direction on the white screw (pot) would turn it down? And I take it the set should be off when adjusting, so I won't be able to read the measurement until I turn it back on after adjusting.

Safest way is to make adjustments while the set is off. You don't want the screwdriver to slip and touch a live component on the board, like those screws that say "HOT" on them. I believe counter-clockwise is lowering and clockwise is raising. You can try by turning it just a very little bit, and then turning it on to test.
post #43 of 61
Hmm okay I turned it to the left at first a little bit (counter clockwise), but that actually bumped it up to 214, so I went in the opposite direction (clockwise) and that took it down to 212. Kept moving further until I got it down to 208. I then checked a blu-ray I knew I could see the pink in, and I still noticed it's there. Also, it appears I can't turn it any further in that direction. All told, the "screw" is able to turn 3/8 a rotation before it cant be turned anymore (this applies both ways but obviously I'm only testing it in the direction that's decreasing the voltage).
post #44 of 61
Ah man, that really sucks. So it can't go any further clockwise? So, maybe tom can chip in, but at this point I think you should just reset it back to the original reading, close her up, and return it. I don't recall any other trimpots on the boards nor any other testing points. Such a shame.
post #45 of 61
210V is just an upper limit for older panels, like PZ80 which I have a lot of experience with. These newer panels are using up to 220V DC. I would suggest trying up to 215V but no higher. That being said I believe the green blob is probably more phosphors than voltages myself, but are you seeing a pink tint?
post #46 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post

210V is just an upper limit for older panels, like PZ80 which I have a lot of experience with. These newer panels are using up to 220V DC. I would suggest trying up to 215V but no higher. That being said I believe the green blob is probably more phosphors than voltages myself, but are you seeing a pink tint?

I agree, voltage adjustments are probably not going to have any effect on non-uniform discolorations like this. They can clear up sparkle or mis-firing issues but I don't think that is what you are dealing with.
post #47 of 61
Okay tried up to 215, still no change, so I put it back at the default (213). The pink blobbing is in the upper right of the screen and stretches horizontally somewhat (so you really see it in the sky portions of some black and white films mainly since coloration in color material for skies is different enough for it not to be noticeable). Additionally, there's some pink discoloration near the bottom middle of the screen (also stretches horizontally, so I guess if I had to give these pink discolorations a shape it would be kind of like a bar across the screen). I also notice the left side of the screen has a slightly more greenish tint (this is more or less top to bottom on the left side). Obviously these are all based on just my eyes, and honestly they're only noticeable on certain material, so what I'm noting is fairly subtle.

I assume if the issue is phosphor, there's no adjusting/dealing with that?

Regardless, GREATLY appreciate the help from all parties in this thread. And overall I have been satisfied with the quality of this TV.
Edited by Ivy Mike - 6/4/13 at 9:02am
post #48 of 61
Is there a specification for Ve on this panel?
post #49 of 61
I assume I need to look for a part of the board that says Ve? Or do I just need to find details in the user manual?
post #50 of 61
What does it state on the sticker on the back of the plasma panel's metal plate ("PANASONIC" "MC106XXXXX" "MADE IN JAPAN" etc.) Any rating at all?
post #51 of 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post

What does it state on the sticker on the back of the plasma panel's metal plate ("PANASONIC" "MC106XXXXX" "MADE IN JAPAN" etc.) Any rating at all?

I don't recall seeing anything like that on my ST60. I saw a Made in Mexico, and then certain boards were printed made in XXX not all parts came from Japan or wherever.
post #52 of 61
Can we see a picture of the overall chassis layout? Panasonic I think have an assembly fab in Mexico for the US/Canada/South American market.
post #53 of 61
Here is a picture of the label on the back of the panel. Apologies for the poor framing, ha, but nothing important was cut off since you can see the information.



I've already screwed the plate back on, so I'll have to do the interior chassis pic another time (let me know if that would help out with the Ve rating, beyond the board pics I posted).
post #54 of 61
Yeah, it would be on the internal chassis...
post #55 of 61
Ok ill do that (should be able to tonight). Though if anyone else reading has the same tv opened and wants to chime in with pics in the meantime, by all means do so...
post #56 of 61
Hmm, I don't see anything rating related, especially not handwritten. The sticker on the chassis in the upper right corner says made in Japan. The sticker in the upper right corner of the center board (the one with vsus adjustment) says made in Mexico.

Here's a pic of the overall board layout. Unfortunately, the cell phone quality isn't enough for you to read everything, so let me know if anything strikes your eye as needing a zoom in, but this will at least show you the overall chassis layout.

post #57 of 61
That's exactly what mine looked like, no stickers, no handwriting, a lot of the boards didn't even have parts numbers listed on them that correspond with the parts list on Panny US' parts website. I also didn't notice any other trimpots besides the little white one under the VSUS.
post #58 of 61
Yeah I didn't see any other similar trim pots but I'll wait to see if tom has any other ideas before closing the book on this one.
post #59 of 61
I don't expect you can tweak out the green blob.
post #60 of 61
Well, that's what I suspected. Thanks for the help walking through how to check out the voltage, etc. (and thanks also to Moonchilde).
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