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Optoma HD25 and HD25-LV owners - Page 3

post #61 of 112
Does the HD25 or lv have any lens shift?
Can it be shelf mounted (right side up) at screen height?
post #62 of 112
Does the HD25 or lv have any lens shift?
Can it be shelf mounted (right side up) at screen height?
post #63 of 112
I contacted this place http://www.audiogeneral.com/Optoma/home_theater.php about the Optoma HD25e (probably my next projector) as they show them on their site at a sale price. If interested they told me If ordered from them Optoma will drop ship until stock comes in. Never dealt with these people but the few reviews I found are favorable. Return policy is only 5 days with a restocking fee.
post #64 of 112
FYI, found this comparison:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe-MNFW5PNk
post #65 of 112
I would not recommend the cheap DLP 3d glasses for the HD25-LV. Reports of the SainSonic Rainbow Series Black 144 Hz 3D Active Rechargeable Shutter Glasses "working great" are greatly exaggerated. I don't know how people can say they work great when the picture has a fog over it. It's not a fault of the glasses, the glasses work decently well and do provide a 3d image. It's a fault of the DLP Link technology. It's a cheap knockoff of actual decent 3d tech. It enables the stereoscopic view but sacrifices clarity. It the difference between being in awe of a scene in the middle of a movie and being moved to tears and just being a casual observer through a film. Not a fair trade off. Save yourselves the wasted time and buy a good set of RF glasses and call it a day. Another thing I noticed about this projector is that calibration is essential. This projector looks great once you dial it in but that sweet spot is very hard to find. The rumors of bad optics are true. There is no "sharp" to this projector. You either have a sharp half or quarter or you have a semi-sharp full picture. Acceptable quality but deserving of accepting the reality of it. When all is said and done this projector is great and offers a picture much larger and much more pleasant than large LCD TV's. Great investment if you put the time and effort into setting it up just right. Another issue is the rainbow effect. I've owned 2 previous Infocus DLP projectors from the past 10 years and neither of them have the rainbow artifacts that this projector does. While not a deal breaker it is noticeable and may be a serious thorn in the side of some people.
If you guys would like my settings I would be happy to post them when I get a chance to get back to the projector but I don't know how much good they would do you considering that all screens are different and all lighting conditions are different.
post #66 of 112
double post
post #67 of 112
Wonder what is going on with the HD25, I ordered one on July 20th and haven't received it yet. The place I ordered from has informed me it is on back order and they don't know when it will be in. I see another site says it is discontinued and that the replacement is the hd25e. Any thoughts on which is better or if they perform about the same?
post #68 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by thextreme1 View Post

So, my thoughts on the projector as compared to the HD 33:

I was watching the HD 33 right before the HD 25 LV arrived. With the picture brightness and quality in mind, fresh from seconds before. I saw quite a difference in brightness about 1 3/4 of what the HD 33 output. I measured my HD 33 at 933 lm, this projector measures in at about 1750 lm. That is in 2-D, in film mode On 120 inch 1.3 gain screen Surrounded by ambient light from windows in the living room. Quite a huge difference, especially to the naked eye. The 3-D on the HD 33, actually looked quite good as it was. During the day, it was still viewable, but at night is where really shined. Looking almost as good as the IMAX theater down the road at the Regal Cinemas. Do not believe the reviews that say 3-D mode isn't enhanced by the HD25 LV projector.

The brightness, even to the naked eye, is doubled from the 600 and some odd lumens that I measured with my HD33. Upon measurement, I came out with about 1100 lm in 3-D mode using the film setting without any adjustments. The 3-D looks 10 times better than it did on the HD 33. I can't exactly describe why, but things seem to pop more, probably due to the enhanced contrast of the new projector. Sharpness also seems to have been tweaked.

There seems to be a push with red in the projector, that is most noticed with skintones. Knocking it back In the advanced settings, resolves the issue. Overall, you wouldn't be wrong in using the factory settings out-of-the-box. Though, with a few tweaks, you can make the picture look that much better.

Was it worth switching from the HD 33 to the HD 25 LV? Yes. Especially if ambient light is an issue in your viewing room. Even if it isn't, it will add that extra kick to both 2-D and 3-D viewing. I love the smaller physical size of the unit itself, it allows that much more flexibility in placement, no matter where you want to put it.

The mechanical noise that some people report, isn't happening on my unit, even at the bright lamp setting with dynamic black enabled. I am guessing it may have been an issue with earlier units and was resolved with the second batch. I cannot even hear the fan running in it, whereas with the HD 33 it was noticeable even over a decent volume soundtrack.

So, in summary:

Brighter in both 2-D and 3-D
Sharper picture, even with larger screens
Better overall color saturation
Smaller
Lighter
Almost silent
About the same price as HD33
More fine adjustments in menus
Multiple Inputs
VGA out, for times when you need it for presentations
Speakers for the same purpose
USB connection, for easy user upgrade

If you are on the fence between the HD 25 and HD 25 LV, I would suggest just going with the LV and paying the extra money, because you never know when you'll need the extra brightness... if you move, If you need to move the projector to another room that isn't light controlled, if you need to take it out for presentations, or just want the extra brightness in 3-D. As someone else here on the boards mentioned, it's better to have the extra lumens and not need it, then to need it and not have it.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. I'm still experimenting with the projector and will have more info as needed.

Thank you for the nice comparison! I have also a HD33 and I'm about to make the plunge...I have still a few questions...

The Lumens you have measured were for ECO mode or HIGH mode? Because the HD33 uses automatically high lampe mode for 3D but the Hd25-lv doesn'it if I'm right...
Could you also measure the black on both projectors?
Do you still find the Hd25-LV quieter than the HD33?
Could you mount the HD25-LV exactly on the place (and ceiling mount) as the HD33? I ask because I don't want to make new holes in my ceiling... smile.gif

Thank you!
post #69 of 112
If you want to bypass all of my chatter, my questions are:

1. How does the PQ look from this projector compared to say the black levels of a new SAMSUNG or SONY flat panel (1080P)?
2. Do projectors look more controlled, and less pixelated than basic HD panels since the image being projected is so much larger, or is that just a stupid question?
3. How accurate is the color, and how are you guys enjoying the quality when gaming? Any pixelation, wishes for better color saturation/accuracy, or contrast when gaming?



Where to begin... I'll keep it simple. I'm "Really interested" in this Projector for our Den, since there is some moderate lighting coming in, and sometimes bright (LV series, obviously). I would just like to hear some owner feedback on how the PQ is compared to what I am used to.
I am still running on a SONY XBR 2. I will be sitting 12' from the screen, and I feel no sense in spending over 2K for a 55" SONY, or their lower end 70". It is recommended 90" for my distance, but I honestly dont know what size to go with. PQ is certainly more accurate, but the smaler the screen, the Brighter, and I dont want to completely blind myself at night. tongue.gif

I won't be able to enjoy a 55" in 1080p resolution. A 720 res. panel would be better for my distance if I am going to run that small of a size for a 12'+ viewing distance.
My question is, are the black levels beyond what a 6 Year old LCD was putting out, or is this projector mainly for the lower end, and have a bit of a pixelated look? I'm not trying to be complicated for you guys; I just don't want to be upset for paying to have speakers built into my wall, have the proper screen, calibrate, but still be unsatisfied with my projector. So, owner opinions are Extremely important, as this is going to be the finishing process to an entire remodel to my home, and what a shame it would be to have a bad image with a theater finished room. I will actually run a higher quality projector in a dedicated room, but from all of my research, this seems to fit the bill, and tickle the reviewers with price vs. quality, extremely low lag input for gaming, and a literal double brightness for better 3D (and larger screen size possibilities because of the additional lumens) than the non "LV" version.
I'm not exactly sure how these new panels decode, and if 1080p looks better at a larger size than it does on an identical size LED/LCD, or if 1080P is simply 1080P, and I am possibly going to see pixelation past 90".
Either way, I am DEFINITELY wanting to get a projector for games, and all I ever do is watch Netflix and Blu-rays... I know Netflix will look a bit disfigured, and is not the same as running from the source material.
post #70 of 112
Whether or not you should buy a projector is going to partly depend on how much light control you really have in your living room. Projectors don't do nearly as well when the lights are on, I'd say enough light to comfortably read a newspaper is too much. Enough light to uncomfortably read a newspaper is probably ok (hence enough light to easily read a remote without using the backlit). Realistically though, projectors produce the best images when the room is so dark that you cannot even read the remote's buttons without using the backlit functionality. Very important is the direction of the unwanted ambient lighting as well, it needs to be shining away from the screen and the lighting should generally be behind you (not between the path of your eyes and the projector). Otherwise normally semi-bright ambient light hitting a projector screen is generally distracting to most people (some might not care if the light is low wattage).

You can still play bright video games and watch sports when the lights are on, but the problem is that any dark scene will look totally washed out and you will lose all shadow detail. This is from a loss of ANSI contrast and a raised black floor combining into one nasty looking issue for dark scenes with ambient light.

OK, so I think if you will have some ambient light then I would work on the screen type. For budget screens, you could consider an HP Da-Lite 2.4 gain screen or possibly go into the DIY screen section in this forum and do a retro-reflective type high gain paint (or similar). You could also look at some positive gain gray screens (though these tend to be very expensive, I guess they are sort of like retro-reflective meets a gray screen). As far as I know, the best "cheap" screen material to combat minor amounts of ambient light is probably still the HP 2.4 gain screen, meaning it works well for both when the room is dark and then there is some ambient light (as long as the light isn't directly shining on the screen). In your type of environment, the type of screen you choose can be more important than someone with a darkened room.

I am not an owner of this projector nor have I seen it, but I can answer some of your questions in the sense of how DLP's in this price range relates.

1) $1000 DLP projectors are not competitive at black levels vs. TV's, but the bigger image makes the overall experience better.

2) Hmm, this depends what type of source you are watching, how close you sit, but projectors generally have a tighter pixel fill ratio than TV's do so projectors will look less digital and more natural. Visible texture weave on a cheap screen can reverse this positive into a negative.

3) Based on reviewers, the color is fairly accurate in some modes after some tweaking. You will probably find it more accurate than most TV's OOTB.

Keep in mind all projectors have advantages/disadvantages, from the reviews the advantage of this projector is the brightness and longer throw over the Benq w1070, as well as this projector has better 3D. However, the Benq w1070 has more accurate OOTB color and might have slightly deeper blacks in 2D (probably not a big enough difference to care though).

Hope that helps...
Edited by coderguy - 8/21/13 at 9:24am
post #71 of 112
Guys,

Can you please confirm only Optoma HD25e works with 144 Hz? I heard that HD25 and HD25-lv works only on 120 Hz, is that correct?
post #72 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by eozen81 View Post

Guys,

Can you please confirm only Optoma HD25e works with 144 Hz? I heard that HD25 and HD25-lv works only on 120 Hz, is that correct?

I was wondering the same thing, I might be able to give you an answer in about a week. There is a discussion about this in here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482334/optima-hd25-compatible-3d-glasses
Unless someone can preform this test before I get the chance.
post #73 of 112
Thread Starter 
I have the HD25-LV and according to the Bit Cauldron RF setup utility it operates at 144 Hz.
My old 120Hz DLP glasses do not work with the HD25-LV.

td
post #74 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

I have the HD25-LV and according to the Bit Cauldron RF setup utility it operates at 144 Hz.
My old 120Hz DLP glasses do not work with the HD25-LV.

td
which software is that? Please send me a link.
post #75 of 112
Thread Starter 
Here's the link at the EstarAmerica web site: http://www.estaramerica.com/upgrade-utility.html
It works with my old BC5100 emitter/glasses. Also there is a good explanation of it over in the 3d forum:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1482334/optima-hd25-compatible-3d-glasses#post_23681084

td
post #76 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

I don't know about the HD25 but here's a comparison with the HD33.
Here's what I found using a light meter on a 100% white patch from the Spears & Munsil 2nd edition disk. Rough conversion to foot candles at 13 feet from lens. Not measured through glasses. Eco mode on both.
Mode:................. 2D .................. 3D

HD33.................11 fc ................10 fc

HD25-LV............ 23 fc................13 fc

Just for grins I measured the relative black level from both pj's. No actual units here.

Hd33 value 1.4
HD25-LV value .1

Both projectors calibrated with Disney WOW.
td

Thank you for your input.

Are the values for 3D also taken in eco mode for both projectors? Could you compare the values of full lampe mode since it makes no sense to me not to use every bit of light available for 3D?

I'm guessing that brillant color is set on 10 for 2D with the HD25-LV for the value of 23fc. No? Is this also the case for 3D?

How do you live with having no more "puremotion" on the HD25-LV for 2D and 3D viewing?

Thank you,

Soulnight (happy with his HD33 but the hd25-lv is really itchy...) wink.gif
Edited by Soulnight - 8/29/13 at 1:47pm
post #77 of 112
Best buy is freaking awesome. In January, 2010, I bought and Optoma HD20. The color wheel shattered (more of a common problem than I ever would have guessed). Because I shelled out the $200 extra clams for the four year extended warranty, there just ordered me a HD25-LV. Cost to me = $0.00 I am excited to say the least.

One very bad thing - a message appeared on my old projector, when it was still working, that the projector bulb's rated life was over, and I should buy a replacement ASAP. After three months of seeing this damn message, guess what bonehead did? Yes, I have an unopened, never used, nearly $300 bulb for the now scrapped projector.

Is there ANY chance, that someone here knows if the HD20 bulb would fit in a HD25-LV projector? The lumens aren't even close, like 1700 vs. 3000, so my gut says, "you are SOL bonehead!!!"

Thanks!!!
post #78 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by terry2 View Post

I contacted this place http://www.audiogeneral.com/Optoma/home_theater.php about the Optoma HD25e (probably my next projector) as they show them on their site at a sale price. If interested they told me If ordered from them Optoma will drop ship until stock comes in. Never dealt with these people but the few reviews I found are favorable. Return policy is only 5 days with a restocking fee.


I purchased my Optoma HD3300 from them a couple years ago and was very pleased purchasing from them. They did have my projector in stock, so there was no drop shipping from Optoma. I found them to be Honest and helpful along with having the best price on the HD3300 at my time of purchase. I would definitley purchase from them again. I will probably purchase a replacement lamp from them as well since I am getting close on hours to need a replacement. Hope this helps.
post #79 of 112
just bought the optoma 25lv. Got it out of the box and turned it on. It is so dim I can't even see the start up options. I have it on a dalite screen and the room was dark and still couldn't see a thing. Anybody have any ideas why.
post #80 of 112
Thread Starter 
I just noticed that when I do a reset on the HD25-LV it also resets the lamp hour counter. My HD33 did not. Also checked the color gamut and found it to be less than the standard and less than the 33.
I will contact Optoma about the reset issue but could somebody else can check it on their HD-25 - ?
thanks
td
post #81 of 112
Thread Starter 
I called Optoma and reported what I found with the HD25-LV resetting the lamp hours when doing a normal reset. After 3 months my lamp hours reads 15 hours! They were unaware of the problem but would check one of their units.
I also mentioned the lousy color gamut compared to the HD33 and now my picture is green for a few moments while warming up.
They are unaware of any firmware updates.

td
post #82 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by tucsondave View Post

I called Optoma and reported what I found with the HD25-LV resetting the lamp hours when doing a normal reset. After 3 months my lamp hours reads 15 hours! They were unaware of the problem but would check one of their units.
I also mentioned the lousy color gamut compared to the HD33 and now my picture is green for a few moments while warming up.
They are unaware of any firmware updates.

td
I did a reset on my HD25e the first week I had it. It also reset the lamp hours ( Benq W1070 I had did the same thing). My picture is also greenish when first turned on. Corrects itself after about 30 seconds.
post #83 of 112
I have the HD33 since december 2011 and I'm really happy about it.
BUT I would like the extra brightness in 3D (and in 2D since I'm thinking about the supernova 08 85 with gain 0.8).

However, I use for 3D film viewing the Interpolation feature pure Motion on HIGH with the HD33. Will it be a shock for me to live without Pure Motion with the HD25-LV?

Did someone compare their fluidity (hd33 vs hd25)?

Thank you!
post #84 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulnight View Post

I have the HD33 since december 2011 and I'm really happy about it.
BUT I would like the extra brightness in 3D (and in 2D since I'm thinking about the supernova 08 85 with gain 0.8).

However, I use for 3D film viewing the Interpolation feature pure Motion on HIGH with the HD33. Will it be a shock for me to live without Pure Motion with the HD25-LV?

Did someone compare their fluidity (hd33 vs hd25)?

In short No, you will not be shocked.

Subjectively, the HD25-LV playing 1080p24 3D movies at 144 Hz does as good or better than Pure Motion doing pulldown to 120 Hz 3D.

Using the FIFA World Cup BRD - which is 720p60 3D - I can't see a difference in the judder in 3D.
post #85 of 112
Actually, I did buy the HD25-LV and I still have the HD33 and... the HD33 wins! And the hd25-lv will go Bach to the store....

FIGHT:

HD25-LV positive aspects:

- sharpness
- brightness
- CMS
- lag
- small

HD25-LV negative aspects:
- loud (even in eco mode with dynamik black desactivated, still louder than HD33 in high lamp mode...)
- wrong color out of the box
- the high brightness can't be use because of the negative aspects of brillant Color put on 10: Colors are dulled and the Picture can get very noisy
- not as close as fluid in 3D than the HD33 with pure motion on high.
post #86 of 112
After 30 days, my HD25E started making a loud buzzing sound at start up and is continuous:eek:. Is this a common problem with these projectors? Thanks

Rob
post #87 of 112
a quick question.. Using TMT5 (build 146 pre cinivia) If I play a 3D BR movie rip, (my video card is an ATI HD6450) to the HD25e, then to get the 3D to work properly I have to change the projector mode from auto to frame sequential, and then once the movie is over I have to change the projector back to auto to avoid the windows 7 media centre window from being corrupt.. Is this normal? I have tmt5 set to always play a 3d movie in 3d mode. I have the refresh rate switching not set to automatic as this used to create stutter from what I seem to remember.
I sort of hoped that the whole 3D scene would have matured over the "3d -ready" saga I used to have with my HD66.
I was disappointed to see that the majority of movies pushed out this year still only have the 3d added post production - like the new Star Trek movie.
It seems like another nail in the coffin for 3d, which is a pity as on a good 3d movie, I still think the effects are incredible on a 140" home screen.

Did anyone get to the bottom of the focus issue on the 25e - I can focus the middle but the bottom and top are slightly blurred. Is this a lens issue with the projector or has anyone been able to mount it perfectly to avoid the issue? I've checked my mount positions but I guess I may have alignment off by a few mm.

Any ideas?
post #88 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by ashley68 View Post

a quick question.. Using TMT5 (build 146 pre cinivia) If I play a 3D BR movie rip, (my video card is an ATI HD6450) to the HD25e, then to get the 3D to work properly I have to change the projector mode from auto to frame sequential, and then once the movie is over I have to change the projector back to auto to avoid the windows 7 media centre window from being corrupt.. Is this normal? I have tmt5 set to always play a 3d movie in 3d mode. I have the refresh rate switching not set to automatic as this used to create stutter from what I seem to remember.
I sort of hoped that the whole 3D scene would have matured over the "3d -ready" saga I used to have with my HD66.
I was disappointed to see that the majority of movies pushed out this year still only have the 3d added post production - like the new Star Trek movie.
It seems like another nail in the coffin for 3d, which is a pity as on a good 3d movie, I still think the effects are incredible on a 140" home screen.

Did anyone get to the bottom of the focus issue on the 25e - I can focus the middle but the bottom and top are slightly blurred. Is this a lens issue with the projector or has anyone been able to mount it perfectly to avoid the issue? I've checked my mount positions but I guess I may have alignment off by a few mm.

Any ideas?

I'm getting my HD25e today, probalby I won't play with it until tomorrow. However there seems few reports about focus issues with both HD25e and HD131xe (check amazon.com).
Myself I'm using HTPC with windows 7 (XMBC, WMC7) and I use browser to read etc.... I don't think I will be able to digest reading text if there are focus issues and if this is the case HD25e will go back... i have a 5 years old HD65 720p and it still throws nice uniform sharp picture...
post #89 of 112
Hi everyone...... I just got my HD25e up and running.... I guess this thread will include 25e owners????.... if not pls point me else where. Is there a recommendation for 3d glasses for the 25e? Looks like the Optima glasses are pretty expensive. Thanks
post #90 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by catherwood View Post

Hi everyone...... I just got my HD25e up and running.... I guess this thread will include 25e owners????.... if not pls point me else where. Is there a recommendation for 3d glasses for the 25e? Looks like the Optima glasses are pretty expensive. Thanks
better off over at the hd131xe.... its closer to the hd25e (actually its the same hardware and software in a different color case and the jury still out on if there are any other real differences...
but the setiings would be the same vs the hd25 and 25lv which uses a different colorwheel and bulb.
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