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Panasonic TC-65PS64 and TC-50PS64 ~OWNER'S POLL~ - Page 15

Poll Results: Are you glad overall that you bought the PanasonicTC-xxPS64?

Poll expired: Jun 22, 2013  
  • 88% (22)
    Yes, totally glad.
  • 0% (0)
    No, I regret it.
  • 12% (3)
    I'm ambivalent. Serious doubts.
25 Total Votes  
post #421 of 758
Thread Starter 
Hi, Dave.

No, I'm not a mod. Thanks for the thought but I doubt they would consider same and I doubt I'd have the time to do it right.

With the amount of work you're putting into the faqs, my suggestion would be to author a new thread and maybe title it something like "2013 Panasonic Plasma 65PS64, 50PS64 and S60 FAQS". As I'm sure you're aware, you might start that thread in post 1 making a mission statement of why you're doing this and what you hope to accomplish. If you're amenable, maybe suggest that others can post faqs as they see fit. Maybe invite editorial input if you want same.

If you do this. please feel free to drop a link over here and maybe let us know when there have been some important updates or revisions.

Fairchild99 places a link to his latest settings in his signature line. If you decide the above has merit, I hope you'll put a link in your signature line as well.

Can't tell ya' how often I've said: "...find any post by fairchild99 and click on the S60 calibration link in his signature line..." It's one of his better ideas IMHO... other than taking us all under his wing to share so many excellent cals. cool.gif

mm

edit: Maybe add one post that says something like: "What's the latest firmware & has it been proven?" The idea would be to publish what the latest firmware revision is... provide a link if you can to the download... and state how long it has proven troublefree. From reading about other model lines, it appears firmware upgrades all too often cause more problems than they solve. However, fairchild99 and others said they installed the latest firmware recently and I have not seen any reports of problems so far.... I might just do that upgrade in another week or three. Yeah, I'm being too cautious. But ya' know.

edit 2: Another thought: If you dedicate a thread to this, you might divide info into smaller bites. Like one post subject to revision for firmware. Another for slides or not to slides and panel aging... etc. Anyway, if you author a thread, it's your baby and you can decide what you think is best. Just a few thoughts. People have a short attention span due to how demanding a typically American family life can be. So shorter posts maintain attention span whereas longer - not so much. On the basis of the above diatribe I just posted, well, I should follow my own advice sometimes. biggrin.gif
Edited by MountainMichael - 9/2/13 at 9:30am
post #422 of 758
I`m a new member, but long time reader and I wanted to give everyone on this board a huge THANK YOU!! I had previously purchased a Sharp 60LE745u led TV and ended up hating it. The motion processing was horrendous and during very intense scenes (Star Trek Movie when they eject the cores to prevent getting sucked into black hole) it was horribly lagged and jittery. I could see the TV pausing and not keeping up. Aside from that the flash lighting was horrible and I'm not sure the TV even knew what the color black was. I returned the TV and was lost as to what to buy to replace it. I saw CNET loved the Panny S60 but I was worried about the screen glare. After doing more research I found this forum and the perfect TV: the 65PS64. I was hard pressed to find any negative reviews anywhere and the TV seemed like a great value. Lucky for me my local Sam`s had several in stock today so I went and picked one up. All I can say is WOW. This TV puts the Sharp to shame!!! The colors, whites and especially blacks are remarkable. The TV has no motion issues what so ever and the anti-glare screen works great. I plan on posting pictures and full review later, but I had to share my experience right away. If you are thinking of buying this TV, buy it now! There is no way you will find a better TV in this price range. Don't judge the picture on what you see while in Sams or Costco because Plasmas in the stores look like crap. Get it home, set it up and you will be presently surprised! :-)
post #423 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMichael View Post

Your idea about not placing all of fairchild99's settings right here in the thread is a smart one, IMHO. I think maybe fairchild99 or I (with his permission) might start an S64 shared settings archive thread and post everything there. Then we could link that thread over here for posterity... other ideas appreciated of course.

Michael

I think it's probably not a good idea, it would just complicate things and probably confuse and turn off people that would use my current settings. Sets do vary and keep aging, but I'm confident that my newer calibrations are where it's at, and if you have issues such as red push or green push or whatever, then I suggest to just omit using the Pro-W/B detail adjustment and Pro-Color detail adjustments. This will provide most of the benefit of my calibration which removes most of the un-needed features and sets up the proper settings for most users while leaving the grayscale and colors at their defaults which I've found at least on my set is pretty close to accurate.

You can of course post them if you want, since I posted them up here anyway for the public to use as they wish, but I think posting every single setting won't be good overall. It seems to me there is more of a majority that has enjoyed my settings vs the few that have not. Also as I've done more and more calibrations with this panel, I've become more experienced with how it reacts to changes and settings, so the newest is always the best bet.

As for the possible request to calibrate to a cooler temperature, there is really no point to this in my eyes. The point of the calibration is to get to the accepted standard so that we are viewing what directors envisioned and want us to view so that we experience the content how they intended. If people want a cooler picture, just change the color temperature to a cooler temp such as Warm1 or Normal but then just omit the Pro W/B and Color detail settings.
post #424 of 758
Yes, F99, I agree.

and no, MM. I am not starting any threads here. You can kick this silly little thing I have done around if you want. But I was specifically asked to start a thread on another forum. I will post a link when that is up. I havent even joined it yet, LOL Someone who is senior member there and a member on this forum too approached me last week when I came up with this idea.

Listen, i totally agree the thread is bloated and needs to be chopped into sections. I will do that. Both your edits are great. can you supply the info about the firmware? What? thats it? I had some questions and unsure answers to my FAQ. i could not have gotten all that info right on the FAQ's. I am pretty sure i did the guides correctly, however.

I am glad you appreciate what I have done MM. That is why I posted my first draft here. but remember, I had some nasty feedback on this forum in the Dnice thread. F99 was always helpful I will say, never an unkind word. But, i did have some really nasty hate PM's that just shocked me.

I am going to let you guys have at it. I am really tired and hate to type. my fingers are done in for now.
I'll be back... biggrin.gif
Edited by bosundave - 9/1/13 at 1:06am
post #425 of 758
Question: My S64 is coming this week. I'm not doing the slides, but instead will just watch regular content to age my TV. Is there any harm in just plugging in fairchild99's settings from the start? I realize the set won't look its best until it's aged, but I'm just wondering if there's any real reason to leave it on default for the first 100 hours, other than the TV not being aged optimally for those settings.
post #426 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodis View Post

Question: My S64 is coming this week. I'm not doing the slides, but instead will just watch regular content to age my TV. Is there any harm in just plugging in fairchild99's settings from the start? I realize the set won't look its best until it's aged, but I'm just wondering if there's any real reason to leave it on default for the first 100 hours, other than the TV not being aged optimally for those settings.

You can plug them in, and if you think things look a bit off, then just leave the Pro-W/B detail and Pro-Color detail adjustments at their defaults.
post #427 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

You can plug them in, and if you think things look a bit off, then just leave the Pro-W/B detail and Pro-Color detail adjustments at their defaults.

Great, thanks! Getting really excited for my set to arrive.
post #428 of 758
Does anyone have any problems with burn in or image retention with this television?
post #429 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by dw254 View Post

Does anyone have any problems with burn in or image retention with this television?

I haven't. Going on about 250 hours of burn in so far I think.
post #430 of 758
I'm still uncertain about the overall PQ of my TC-50PS64, and I suspect my TV could be defective due to the way it was stored at Costco:
The box was laid down horizontally. I remember this clearly because the box was laying across other boxes (those under it were vertical).

I've recently read that storing/transporting plasma's horizontally was a big no-no, but could any of you provide insight as to why?

I'll probably end up exchanging my TV, but man, what a hassle...
post #431 of 758
I'm 99% sure that's only due to the highly increased risk of the screen cracking or shattering entirely when it's not upright. Being stored horizontally, while not advised (at least not in earthquake-prone areas tongue.gif), shouldn't cause any PQ issues...
post #432 of 758
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by leepoffaith View Post

I`m a new member, but long time reader and I wanted to give everyone on this board a huge THANK YOU!! ...

leepoffaith,

Welcome to AVS and to the thread!

mm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I think it's probably not a good idea, it would just complicate things and probably confuse and turn off people that would use my current settings. Sets do vary and keep aging, but I'm confident that my newer calibrations are where it's at...

Ok. Roger that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dw254 View Post

Does anyone have any problems with burn in or image retention with this television?

I sometimes nod off when watching Amazon Instant Vids. My PS3 will eventually finish whatever show and go back to a menu screen. Unfortunately, my PS3 does not do the screensaver dimming thing when in Amazon. If the Amazon menu was up for like 5 hours or so with brighter settings, I could see some IR or maybe "static image" is more accurate because an hour or two with pixel flipper or about 3 hours of normal content and it was gone.

Fairchild99 suggested I start using the sleep timer whenever I'm getting drowsy and that works very well to avoid the above. OTOH, I doubt the above was causing any damage.

I haven't done any intensive video gaming on my S64 yet so I can't say about IR with that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paincakes View Post

I'm still uncertain about the overall PQ of my TC-50PS64, and I suspect my TV could be defective due to the way it was stored at Costco:
The box was laid down horizontally. I remember this clearly because the box was laying across other boxes (those under it were vertical).

I've recently read that storing/transporting plasma's horizontally was a big no-no, but could any of you provide insight as to why?

I'll probably end up exchanging my TV, but man, what a hassle...

Sorry to hear it appears to be headed that direction. I had to swap out an ST60 and that's when I tried the S64. The ST60 developed an intermittent fault unlike what you're seeing. Panasonic TVs are reported to be among the most reliable of the brands but not perfect. If faulty memory serves, Consumer Reports tracked customer input and said that 2 in 100 Panasonic's develop serious problems in the first short while. Can't remember if it was 30 or 90 days. If that sounds bad, they reported Sammy's as having 5 in 100. eek.gif

If you decide to try a swap, here's hoping the logistical work solves the color defect you're seeing.

I'm not certain of all the ramifications of transporting a panel horizontal. From what I've read, it appeared there is a greater chance of breaking glass hitting bumps in the road. I've not read of anything that said it would cause color problems. I don't know if the store having the panel lying flat for a long time would cause any color problems or not. I doubt it but can't prove it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Googer View Post

I'm 99% sure that's only due to the highly increased risk of the screen cracking or shattering entirely when it's not upright. Being stored horizontally, while not advised (at least not in earthquake-prone areas tongue.gif), shouldn't cause any PQ issues...

+1. That's what I believe, too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpoppa206 View Post

I haven't. Going on about 250 hours of burn in so far I think.

No offense intended, but I believe the term "burn in" is different from "break in". Burn in means: An image has been irrevocably burned into the screen and it absolutely cannot be removed even with pixel flipper. It is actual, permanent damage. It's the dreaded step beyond temporary IR. Whereas break in or panel aging or phosphor aging would mean how much time is on the panel.

I don't recall reading about any S64's reported to have an image permanently burned into the screen. I have read of a few people seeing IR occur fairly quickly and occasionally stubborn in video games and such. Appears some believe this will vary from panel to panel even in the same model line.


To anyone new to looking at the S64's, IMHO, the S64's built in screen wipe is pretty much useless at removing even minimal IR or static image whereas the Disney Wow disk's "pixel flipper" feature is highly effective at quickly removing IR. I bought my Disney Wow disk when someone in the S60 thread had put up a "Groupon" for 15 bucks or something. Flipper sure looks freaky, but it gets the job done.
Edited by MountainMichael - 9/2/13 at 11:02am
post #433 of 758
Thread Starter 
Text removed. I need to gather more info before posting this question.
Edited by MountainMichael - 9/2/13 at 11:04am
post #434 of 758
OK. I am at the point where I can give my initial impressions of my 50S64. I would not call it a reivew just yet since my experiance is so limited. I do need some help with a few problems that have arisen.

Overall, so far, I have been pretty pleased with the picture on my S64. That was not the case initially when I was bumbling around the varous settings I was trying. This was before I plugged Fairchild99's calibrations in.
My prrp was about 50 hours of Dnice slides, then 30 hours of Webapalooza's 120 slide show which I liked MUCH better, and to date about 20 hours of normal TV. I did plug in F99's settings 10 hours in to watching normal content becasue I was so unhappy with my picture. Now, I am very happy. As per F99. I did not plug in any advanced settings to reds, greens, and blues because my set is still very fresh.
I was getting what I thought was a yellow cast to my whites and this really bothered me. I thought they were dingy and not good at all. Flesh tones were too yellow.

I fooled around with Gamma and the warm setting but ultimately returned to what F99 says is good. My contrast is at 78, bright at 0 and color at 47 and I am back at Warm 2.
I would say my current results are very good but not yet excellent. I am pretty sure I can get to excellent with some more aging and maybe Disney's WOW disk which I decided to buy over all the other self help disks.

I tried CNETS settings but like F99's better. Many thanks to his hard work. I am NOT seeing any red push, or any problems except a slight yellow cast still. The whites have lost most of the yellow cast I had initially but I would like to see them, well, whiter!

The reflection off the screen is worsen than my Pioneer by a noticeable amount. I can see my bedside lamp clearly on the screen where I could hardly see it at all with my Elite panel. Luckily I can swing it so it shows up only on the black border of my Pani. I am grateful for the AR the S64 does have.

I have two problems I can not correct:

1) I cannot access the first 3 items in Advanced Picture. 24p Direct in, 3:2 pulldown and 1080p pixel direct remain GREY and are complete not accessible for me to change. I cant get in to them no matter what I try. Also, Black level at Dark is incredible. Is that setting impossible to be used with any calibrations? I dont see it as a choice ever.

2) I get a motion caused artifact in all of my media players when my PC is hooked up to the TV and used a monitor. I have the same hook up as I used for my Pioneer. I used a single HDMI in (#4 on my Pioneer and #1 on the Pani) and everything switched by a pass through Home Theater Onkyo receiver. I did notice I had to change the screen resolution on my lap top to get an undistorted image on my TV. My old setting of 1360x ??? is now not even a choice. I had to change to 1200 something. Is that because this set is a 1080p and my Elite was a 720p? I was scrambling to get the right setting. It didnt look very good for a while that my PC was going to match up with my TV. It did eventually. I use an HDMI out from my PC to the receiver GAME mode and use the receiver remote to switch between Bluray, Uverse(CBL/SAT) and my PC (GAME)....just the same as before. I watch a LOT of video from very high quality down loads and use the VLC or better yet, my Splash Pro player.

Sorry for all the background info, but I need everyone to know what my set up is if we are to fix this artifact. The nature of the artifact is that it manifests itself as a horizontal line right in the middle of the screen that momentarily creates a split screen. This artifact does not appear at times of no movement or even slow pans. If the subjects on screen move at all faster than a slow walk or the camera makes any kind of pan in any direction that is only a medium speed, I get this artifact. it is VERY off putting and annoying. No settings on my media players can fix this. I never get this with my Pioneer Plasma..ever. I dont get any kind of artifact in Bluray or Uverse.
The "spit screen" thing is where the top half of the screen is offset to the left of the bottom half by a noticeable amount, then reverts to a normal screen once on screen or camera movement ceases.

I have never heard of this happening before and have little hope it can be corrected. Who knows. Its almost a deal killer since I watch so much online downloads.

I hope to eventually get my S64 working at least closer to what my Pioneer was at. see NO increase in resolution at 1080p vs my Elite panel at 720p using 1080p sources(Blue ray).
I will continue to try to correct issues with my Pani and also keep searching for a Main Board for my Pioneer. Bottom, line. The Pani will have to do, but I miss my Elite panel very much.
post #435 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by bosundave View Post

1) I cannot access the first 3 items in Advanced Picture. 24p Direct in, 3:2 pulldown and 1080p pixel direct remain GREY and are complete not accessible for me to change. I cant get in to them no matter what I try. Also, Black level at Dark is incredible. Is that setting impossible to be used with any calibrations? I dont see it as a choice ever.

Those items in Advanced picture are only available if your source device is set in a mode that allows that. For instance to get access to the 3:2 pulldown you have to be in an interlaced mode such as 480i or 1080i. The 1080p pixel direct requires a device to be set in a full 4:4:4 RGB mode. The 24p direct in requires the source device to be set to output 24p which sometimes is referred to as 24hz. Also black level at Dark is bad, you will be crushing/clipping black levels and will be missing alot of shadow detail. The only time you ever set the black level to dark is if you have some material that has it's levels wrong and the picture is overly washed out.
post #436 of 758
Thread Starter 
Good writeup, Dave. Thanks for contributing that to the thread.

IMHO, the motion blurring gets noticeably better somewhere in the 200 to 500 hour range. I noticed no difference from 500 to 700. OTOH, by that time it had stopped drawing my attention.

However, the camps are split on this. Some believe that aging does NOT improve plasma motion. There are threads dedicated to plasma motion but I sure can't prove anything one way or another.

I don't know if any large HDTV has perfect motion at present. However, I would now be willing to say that my S64 handles motion "very well". But not perfectly. With one of the judder workarounds for my PS3 and a high quality blu ray like Avatar, I would call the motion handling "excellent".

On my 65PS64, a viewing distance of 8 to 9 feet was right at the limit for me for motion at first without making me dizzy. I think I could knock that down by a foot or two now. I've no need or wish to do that, just sayin' that viewing distance is an important variable for this.

mm
Edited by MountainMichael - 9/2/13 at 5:18pm
post #437 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverwidow View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

That's weird, mine is still on 2.206 and saying it's the latest through the TV's built-in firmware update notification feature. Guess the S60 is not getting any firmware goodness. Be advised firmware updates usually throw calibrations out of whack.

Fairchild - I downloaded Panasonic's update from their website. Just unzip the file, then put it on a USB flash drive. At that point, stick it in the TV and it'll do the rest. The update applies to both the S60 and S64.

Do you know what they changed in the firmware update? I checked for updates in the built-in notification a few weeks ago and it told me 2.206 was current as well.

(For some reason, I wasn't getting e-mails of forum updates, and being slammed at work and out of town the last couple of weekends, missed almost 2 weeks of posts.)
post #438 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMichael View Post

IMHO, the motion blurring gets noticeably better somewhere in the 200 to 500 hour range. I noticed no difference from 500 to 700. OTOH, by that time it had stopped drawing my attention.

However, the camps are split on this. Some believe that aging does NOT improve plasma motion. There are threads dedicated to plasma motion but I sure can't prove anything one way or another.

I don't know if any large HDTV has perfect motion at present. However, I would now be willing to say that my S64 handles motion "very well". But not perfectly.

I think I mentioned I noticed motion blur watching DVR'd 2nd Broncos game against the Seahawks. I don't know if it was the broadcast or DVR, but I just finished watching the 3rd pre-season game against the Rams and didn't notice any motion blur there. FWIW, the Seattle game was looked very much like a night game - cloudy, dark and sort of grainy, while the home game against St. Louis was almost like a day game with much better lighting, even with a few bouts of rain in Denver. I'll have to look for motion blurring again when I watch the DVR replay of the Cardinals game.
post #439 of 758
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTimeShifter View Post

I think I mentioned I noticed motion blur watching DVR'd 2nd Broncos game against the Seahawks. I don't know if it was the broadcast or DVR, but I just finished watching the 3rd pre-season game against the Rams and didn't notice any motion blur there. FWIW, the Seattle game was looked very much like a night game - cloudy, dark and sort of grainy, while the home game against St. Louis was almost like a day game with much better lighting, even with a few bouts of rain in Denver. I'll have to look for motion blurring again when I watch the DVR replay of the Cardinals game.

Hey, Roger. Welcome back! We missed ya'.

I totally agree that often times motion blurring is content driven. Thanks for mentioning that.

Regarding the firmware update:

I waited a week or more before installing it to see if anyone reported their S64 going Damian on them or not. Your post just reminded me, so I downloaded it, placed the unzipped file on a flash drive and installed it. The process went fine.

fwiw, I read somewhere that the firmware update was for stability. That's a bit of a puzzle since I've seen no stability complaints from S64 or S60 owners... sure hope it doesn't introduce the dreaded vid gaming lag... biggrin.gif

Hey, maybe the real reason is it gives us 3D... well, probably not. wink.gif

I hope fc99 and silverwidow will post up if they know of anything it actually corrects.

mm
Edited by MountainMichael - 9/2/13 at 6:11pm
post #440 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by bosundave View Post

2) I get a motion caused artifact in all of my media players when my PC is hooked up to the TV and used a monitor. I have the same hook up as I used for my Pioneer. I used a single HDMI in (#4 on my Pioneer and #1 on the Pani) and everything switched by a pass through Home Theater Onkyo receiver. I did notice I had to change the screen resolution on my lap top to get an undistorted image on my TV. My old setting of 1360x ??? is now not even a choice. I had to change to 1200 something. Is that because this set is a 1080p and my Elite was a 720p? I was scrambling to get the right setting. It didnt look very good for a while that my PC was going to match up with my TV. It did eventually. I use an HDMI out from my PC to the receiver GAME mode and use the receiver remote to switch between Bluray, Uverse(CBL/SAT) and my PC (GAME)....just the same as before. I watch a LOT of video from very high quality down loads and use the VLC or better yet, my Splash Pro player.

Sorry for all the background info, but I need everyone to know what my set up is if we are to fix this artifact. The nature of the artifact is that it manifests itself as a horizontal line right in the middle of the screen that momentarily creates a split screen. This artifact does not appear at times of no movement or even slow pans. If the subjects on screen move at all faster than a slow walk or the camera makes any kind of pan in any direction that is only a medium speed, I get this artifact. it is VERY off putting and annoying. No settings on my media players can fix this. I never get this with my Pioneer Plasma..ever. I dont get any kind of artifact in Bluray or Uverse.
The "spit screen" thing is where the top half of the screen is offset to the left of the bottom half by a noticeable amount, then reverts to a normal screen once on screen or camera movement ceases.

I have never heard of this happening before and have little hope it can be corrected. Who knows. Its almost a deal killer since I watch so much online downloads.
Hi, bosundave,

I have a suggestion on your Question #2 above. You said you’re only having the “split-screen w/the top half shifting to the left” phenomenon when your laptop is the source of the material. Furthermore, you mentioned having to change the laptop’s screen resolution (settings) to be able to get any playable picture out of it at all. Therefore, it looks like your problem is finding out how to get your laptop to “play nice” with your new tv. Another clue you gave was that your older tv was 720p resolution. So it’s the laptop.

Here’s something to try. Maybe the Pani can’t effectively process your new screen resolution, in certain situations. So you could try the following settings on your laptop, and see if either one of them will fix this, --

1024 x 768
or
1152 x 864

I don’t know if this will help or not, but you could try it. I only have a desktop, and it’s not connected to my other equipment anyway, so I have no way of testing this myself.

Other than that, is there another input in your a/v receiver you could use for the laptop other than Game mode? IOW, does that input process incoming signals differently than other video modes? I’m not even familiar w/Game modes, as my Yamaha RX-V663 has only 2 HDMI inputs, and both can be used for anything; there's no "Game" anything, other than a couple of Sound Fields, which don't affect video at all. Or is Game mode just a label? It sounds like that’s all it is, unless that particular HDMI connects to internal firmware that processes those incoming signals differently than other HDMI. If that is the case, are there settings in the Onkyo’s menu that need to be changed?

These are just shots in the dark, humbly offered. But it’s clear that because this effect only shows up with the laptop, this problem stems either from the laptop's settings or from the input to which it’s being routed.

If by some miracle either of these improbable “solutions” should work for you, please let me know! Trying hard to help you, but these are the only guesses I could come up with. I can clearly visualize how this would look via your excellent description --- it would be both jolting and revolting!
post #441 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

Those items in Advanced picture are only available if your source device is set in a mode that allows that. For instance to get access to the 3:2 pulldown you have to be in an interlaced mode such as 480i or 1080i. The 1080p pixel direct requires a device to be set in a full 4:4:4 RGB mode. The 24p direct in requires the source device to be set to output 24p which sometimes is referred to as 24hz. Also black level at Dark is bad, you will be crushing/clipping black levels and will be missing alot of shadow detail. The only time you ever set the black level to dark is if you have some material that has it's levels wrong and the picture is overly washed out.


Ahhh, so I need to be playing a 1080P BLu ray then? No OTA source is 1080P yet is it? Any idea what resolution my Uverse is giving me? I hardly watch it any more. Some of the channels are so poor, you could barley call if HD. My last tech who came to the house calls it "screaming DSL".
EDIT: So, i put a Bluray on and I can access everything but the 3:2 pull down. I will likely never use that? Whats in 1080i? When do I use 1080p pixel direct when watching a Blu Ray? Should I always use it or never use it? Enabling it seems to adveselly affect my Media Players when I swith back to watching source material from my PC. So I put it back in Blu ray to shut that to OFF.
I turned my ORBITER back on at 100 some hours. I am 100% off the slides now.

OK, one issue down and one to two to go. Caely might be on to something with the motion issue. His overall approach makes sense. I dont think this is a malfunction with the TV set, just a connection issue/ I will re[port on this.
Better whites might come from more aging or the WOW disk. Before you know it I am getting closer and closer to my old Elite Panel. That is my hope and desire. Thanks guys.
I am by no means unhappy. I think there is a solution for everything. Just growing pains is all.
Edited by bosundave - 9/3/13 at 9:29am
post #442 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caely View Post

Hi, bosundave,

I have a suggestion on your Question #2 above. You said you’re only having the “split-screen w/the top half shifting to the left” phenomenon when your laptop is the source of the material. Furthermore, you mentioned having to change the laptop’s screen resolution (settings) to be able to get any playable picture out of it at all. Therefore, it looks like your problem is finding out how to get your laptop to “play nice” with your new tv. Another clue you gave was that your older tv was 720p resolution. So it’s the laptop.

Here’s something to try. Maybe the Pani can’t effectively process your new screen resolution, in certain situations. So you could try the following settings on your laptop, and see if either one of them will fix this, --

1024 x 768
or
1152 x 864

I don’t know if this will help or not, but you could try it. I only have a desktop, and it’s not connected to my other equipment anyway, so I have no way of testing this myself.

Other than that, is there another input in your a/v receiver you could use for the laptop other than Game mode? IOW, does that input process incoming signals differently than other video modes? I’m not even familiar w/Game modes, as my Yamaha RX-V663 has only 2 HDMI inputs, and both can be used for anything; there's no "Game" anything, other than a couple of Sound Fields, which don't affect video at all. Or is Game mode just a label? It sounds like that’s all it is, unless that particular HDMI connects to internal firmware that processes those incoming signals differently than other HDMI. If that is the case, are there settings in the Onkyo’s menu that need to be changed?

These are just shots in the dark, humbly offered. But it’s clear that because this effect only shows up with the laptop, this problem stems either from the laptop's settings or from the input to which it’s being routed.

If by some miracle either of these improbable “solutions” should work for you, please let me know! Trying hard to help you, but these are the only guesses I could come up with. I can clearly visualize how this would look via your excellent description --- it would be both jolting and revolting!

AFAIK, GAME mode is just a label. I can actually chnge it to say anything I want. nothing special about it. Its just a pass through switching thing that the Onky offers. I can TRY diredt to HDMI 2. I have not tried that yet. But I will loose my sound from my Onkyo, so that is no solution.

I tried 1024, its too distorted (stretched). i did check the media players and the artifact is less noticeable and shifted from bisecting the top and bottom halves of the screen to now being 3/4 of the way down the screen. Its a no go. 1400x1050 is also way too stretched and everything is too small. I checked the media players and the motion caused artifact seems to be gone. I cant use this resolution due to distortion and size of icons and print on screen. But I checked anyway and no artifacts at all at speed on the media players. Way too stretched to use in this screen resolution.

1280X768 is where I had it before. This setting looks the best, the most natural and still has the bad motion artifact going right down the center of the screen in the form of a horizontal line that transects the screen into 2 parts. They shift and then merge when the motion stops.
Its still very annoying.

Finally, my last choice is 1280x720. This resolution doesn't look quite as natural, but is acceptable. The artifact still exists but is 3/4 the way down the screen now and more out of my main field of view. Maybe this is my best bet. I wish I could have solved the issue 100%. I will try a few other things.
Note what I am getting is not Pani generated because of fault..I dont think. Its not a judder. I dont have any motion issues in Uverse or Blue Ray...just in my media palyers in my PC hook up.

I take things back. 1280X720 is my most natural looking resolution. In spite of the artifact (at least its in a better spot now) still being in my Media players, I am keeping this screen resolution. Everything else looks natural and 100% not distorted in any way.

Should I turn my orbiter back on now that I am done with the slides?

I am pretty happy with Fairchid99's settings. I still have my young panel (100hrs) with no Pro color settings entered yet as he suggested. I think that yellow cast I was talking about is gone, but I still want crisper whites. Blacks are dandy.
Why do I like some sharpness added.? Zero just seems soft to me. Why is sharpness set so low? My calibrator had sharpness set low on my Elite and I eventually jacked it up a lot. My eyes arent that bad. My personal preference for almost everything is in line with most of the experienced viewers. I want natural. I hate harsh contrasty, vivid settings, but the Sharpness seems to be about the only one I always dont agree with. Anyone else?

EDIT: I have plugged in ALL of F99's settings exactly as shown in his most recent post. The slides must have aged my set very nicely. I uses a combo of Dnice and a differnt 120 slide show. My set at 140 hours has taken perfectly to F99's 1500 hour settings. I am most pleased.
Edited by bosundave - 9/3/13 at 9:56am
post #443 of 758
My 65S64 is being delivered tomorrow. What does everyone here recommend for White Glove tipping? They'll be bringing the set to my basement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bosundave View Post

EDIT: I have plugged in ALL of F99's settings exactly as shown in his most recent post. The slides must have aged my set very nicely. I uses a combo of Dnice and a differnt 120 slide show. My set at 140 hours has taken perfectly to F99's 1500 hour settings. I am most pleased.

Can I ask where you got your additional 120 slide show?
post #444 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodis View Post

My 65S64 is being delivered tomorrow. What does everyone here recommend for White Glove tipping? They'll be bringing the set to my basement.
Can I ask where you got your additional 120 slide show?

I gave the driver $20, he was great and gave me plenty of time to examine the unboxed tv + ask questions.
post #445 of 758
Hey everyone,

I'm a 65" S64 owner and I think it's a great tv.

One issue that I've noticed that someone mentioned earlier is I've noticed some graininess.

Mostly in static backgrounds.

For example, if two people are talking are talking in front of a solid-colored wall, the wall will appear grainy, like that old film effect.

Anyone else noticed this?
post #446 of 758
My 65" S64 was delivered yesterday. Really glad I was able to get one ordered before they disappeared from the Costco site again.

I'm not doing the slides, just letting it age naturally. Plugged in some of fairchild99's settings, but will wait until the set is broken in to apply the pro and color settings as he suggested. Blacks and colors look great, and the brightness is just fine (that was one minor concern I had beforehand).

Only a couple complaints:

1) As Cradle6 mentions above, I am surprised at seeing quite a bit of bouncing static on some dark areas. Specifically, when you pull up the Amazon app on the TV, the background is a dark gray and the whole thing is practically just that bouncing static. It's pretty annoying, but I imagine it won't be an issue while watching regular shows/movies.

2) One other minor complaint I have is the smoothness of gradients (or lack thereof). It's very "stepped" when moving from one shade of a color to another, as on my Xbox home screen. But again, I hope this will only be an issue in the rare cases that a full screen is a gradient.

I definitely need to spend some more time with the set to make a complete judgement call, but so far I'm pretty happy minus my couple complaints. I was initially worried that the 65" would be too big, and I'll be honest, I was thinking, "Yeah, this is maybe too big" after getting it set up, but I think I'll get used to it. My wife came in and was standing in front of it and said, "It looks really grainy." I had to explain to her that she needed to sit down on the couch 10 feet away and not right in front of it. biggrin.gif
post #447 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodis View Post

My 65" S64 was delivered yesterday. Really glad I was able to get one ordered before they disappeared from the Costco site again.

I'm not doing the slides, just letting it age naturally. Plugged in some of fairchild99's settings, but will wait until the set is broken in to apply the pro and color settings as he suggested. Blacks and colors look great, and the brightness is just fine (that was one minor concern I had beforehand).

Only a couple complaints:

1) As Cradle6 mentions above, I am surprised at seeing quite a bit of bouncing static on some dark areas. Specifically, when you pull up the Amazon app on the TV, the background is a dark gray and the whole thing is practically just that bouncing static. It's pretty annoying, but I imagine it won't be an issue while watching regular shows/movies.

2) One other minor complaint I have is the smoothness of gradients (or lack thereof). It's very "stepped" when moving from one shade of a color to another, as on my Xbox home screen. But again, I hope this will only be an issue in the rare cases that a full screen is a gradient.

I definitely need to spend some more time with the set to make a complete judgement call, but so far I'm pretty happy minus my couple complaints. I was initially worried that the 65" would be too big, and I'll be honest, I was thinking, "Yeah, this is maybe too big" after getting it set up, but I think I'll get used to it. My wife came in and was standing in front of it and said, "It looks really grainy." I had to explain to her that she needed to sit down on the couch 10 feet away and not right in front of it. biggrin.gif

1.) I'm not sure what settings you're using, but this effect should be lessened with things like Noise Reduction turned off, and I believe if your contrast is lowered. From what other users have said, this should lessen as the TV breaks in. I personally don't really see it, although I guess I can see the dithering when I'm a foot away from the TV. From any normal viewing point it's a non-issue for me.

2.) This is just the nature of the S64/S60. It won't handle color gradation as well as say, the ST60. However, to be quite honest, I only notice this in certain instances. Like you said, the XBox dashboard background, and usually other places like menus. During actual content, it's kind of tough to notice. It's there, but not enough to break the experience at all for me (some users have also mentioned seeing it in games, such as the sky in Bioshock Infinite...but it's something I've kind of tuned out at this point in my games)
post #448 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doodis View Post


Only a couple complaints:

1) As Cradle6 mentions above, I am surprised at seeing quite a bit of bouncing static on some dark areas. Specifically, when you pull up the Amazon app on the TV, the background is a dark gray and the whole thing is practically just that bouncing static. It's pretty annoying, but I imagine it won't be an issue while watching regular shows/movies.

2) One other minor complaint I have is the smoothness of gradients (or lack thereof). It's very "stepped" when moving from one shade of a color to another, as on my Xbox home screen. But again, I hope this will only be an issue in the rare cases that a full screen is a gradient.

As Fairchild mentioned above, there are a few things you'll want to turn off that will drastically reduce the Noise. The main things that I've seen have an effect on this Noise reduction are:

1) Turn off CATS (it's in both the main Picture menu as well as the ECO menu)
2) Turn off MPEG NR
3) Turn off Video NR

Beyond this, tweaking the Contrast and Brightness should also significantly help in the Noise reduction. Let us know if this helps!! smile.gif
post #449 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by kuwlness View Post

As Fairchild mentioned above, there are a few things you'll want to turn off that will drastically reduce the Noise. The main things that I've seen have an effect on this Noise reduction are:

1) Turn off CATS (it's in both the main Picture menu as well as the ECO menu)
2) Turn off MPEG NR
3) Turn off Video NR

Beyond this, tweaking the Contrast and Brightness should also significantly help in the Noise reduction. Let us know if this helps!! smile.gif

Don't forget to also use a Panel Brightness of either Mid or Low (I recommend Mid) if you are using Custom or Cinema. High causes more un-wanted dithering/noise which is very visible in dark scenes.
post #450 of 758
Thank you everyone for the pointers. I'll double-check my settings at home tonight.

I didn't realize there was a separate CATS setting in the ECO menu, so I'll for sure need to look at that.
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