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Official ZT60 Owners Thread - Page 147

post #4381 of 11489
So my ZT60 is clearly causing my JL Fathom sub to hum. Both the ZT and JL are plugged into the same circuit. Even with the audio cable unplugged on the sub, as soon as I turn on the ZT I get the buzz from the subs amp. I can't explain it.
post #4382 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post

Quote:What issue? The terrible 3d performance or that its so dim that its unwatchable in any environment? What exactly do you expect Panasonic is going to be able to do for you that weeks of help and suggestions here hasnt been able to do? The issue is the inconsistent level of 3D. The same disc can look completely different in its intensity the second, third or fourth time. Panasonic is offering to send me their 3D Blu-ray player to test. I am considering it. However, I don't think the player is the problem. My Oppo BDP-93 worked perfectly with my LG 3D Plasma prior to the Panasonic. The issue concerning brightness level is not something I expect Panasonic to help me with. I don't know where you got that idea from. It's only an additional disadvantage that is making me lean towards exchanging for the F8500. By the way, just came back from viewing an F8500 in an AVS member's home. Want to thank Ken for inviting me to his home and letting me put my Oppo player through the paces. Very impressed with the F8500. 3D looked better thanks to the additional light output. Have decisions to make over the next day. Then I should be out of everyone's hair here.

ZT brightness has been a non issue for me. I have it set to THX Cinema mode. I do plenty of daytime viewing, and the picture has plenty of brightness for me. The colors are rich. The blacks are black, and I can not see any reflections. In my room, I have a side window with blinders on, but during a day, there is still plenty of sunlight in the room. I live in Houston, so we get plenty of sunshine here. I am coming from Sony XBR960 CRT btw.

You probably know this already but, are you sure that you are not getting a converted 2D > 3D image? If I click the 3D button on the remote during watching a 2D signal like TV broadcast, the set will convert 2D to 3D. The converted 3D is nowhere as good as a native 3D signal from 3D blue ray.
Edited by SwiftSweeper - 11/24/13 at 1:57pm
post #4383 of 11489
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:19pm
post #4384 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewTT View Post

So my ZT60 is clearly causing my JL Fathom sub to hum. Both the ZT and JL are plugged into the same circuit. Even with the audio cable unplugged on the sub, as soon as I turn on the ZT I get the buzz from the subs amp. I can't explain it.
Same thing here. How do we fix this? Buy that isolating transformer? And plug what into it? The sub or tv? Does the transformer protect from surge?
post #4385 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewTT View Post

So my ZT60 is clearly causing my JL Fathom sub to hum. Both the ZT and JL are plugged into the same circuit. Even with the audio cable unplugged on the sub, as soon as I turn on the ZT I get the buzz from the subs amp. I can't explain it.

It appears that the ground for the sub is not at the same potential as the ground for the TV, even though they are both connected to the same circuit. It is not recommended, but you could temporarily use a 3 prong to 2 prong “cheater” to break the sub ground to verify it is a ground loop problem, but only for a few seconds since this can be a dangerous permanent fix.

The common ground going back to your breaker box may have sufficient resistance such that it is causing a voltage divider effect with the resistance in the power cable(s). If you can’t get to the bottom of this, maybe an electrician could check things out before using extreme unction like an isolation transformer.

(The isolation transformer output is totally isolated from the “house ground” It can also reduce surges in the power system).
post #4386 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Same thing here. How do we fix this? Buy that isolating transformer? And plug what into it? The sub or tv? Does the transformer protect from surge?

If you do go the isolation transformer route, you could connect everything to it, or just one load (sub or tv) to break the ground loop. Of course, the higher the wattage requirement, the more costly the isolation transformer. Yes, the transformer will reduce surges, but better check the specs since it will not eliminate them entirely.
post #4387 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Same thing here. How do we fix this? Buy that isolating transformer? And plug what into it? The sub or tv? Does the transformer protect from surge?
Have you tried plugging the sub into a different outlet yet?
post #4388 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Have you tried plugging the sub into a different outlet yet?
Still not at home. Need to stop and get anothet extension. Will report back in another hour or two.
post #4389 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Still not at home. Need to stop and get anothet extension. Will report back in another hour or two.
Get a long enough cord so that you can plug it into a different room just to troubleshoot.
post #4390 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by cappy1 View Post

If you do go the isolation transformer route, you could connect everything to it, or just one load (sub or tv) to break the ground loop. Of course, the higher the wattage requirement, the more costly the isolation transformer. Yes, the transformer will reduce surges, but better check the specs since it will not eliminate them entirely.
Could you reccomend a specific one for just my sub? The sub is a rythmik f-15HP. The HP designates a much more powerful amp.
post #4391 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Get a long enough cord so that you can plug it into a different room just to troubleshoot.
Will do
post #4392 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Will do
If you are using sat or cable box did you try to disconnect the feed and then turn on your sub? You may be able to isolate the source. what type of audio cable are you using for your sub..RCA, Coax or XLR?
post #4393 of 11489
On mine, the hum is there irrespective of the audio cable connection to the sub. It's the weirdest thing. It's a rolling type of a hum that repeats every 15-20 seconds.
post #4394 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewTT View Post

On mine, the hum is there irrespective of the audio cable connection to the sub. It's the weirdest thing. It's a rolling type of a hum that repeats every 15-20 seconds.
The hum is there only when you turn on the TV correct? does sub hum with the TV off but with the sub still plugged plugged in?
post #4395 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

The hum is there only when you turn on the TV correct? does sub hum with the TV off but with the sub still plugged plugged in?

Sub on, audio cable to sub plugged in or not, TV on - hum

Sub on, audio cable to sub plugged in or not, TV off - no hum

I use a Furman conditioner and also tried going directly to the wall and it still hums.
post #4396 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewTT View Post

Sub on, audio cable to sub plugged in or not, TV on - hum

Sub on, audio cable to sub plugged in or not, TV off - no hum

I use a Furman conditioner and also tried going directly to the wall and it still hums.

What connection are you using to TV... single HDMI? any other connections from TV to AVR,BD etc? If a single hdmi connection try to disconnect that hdmi cable then turn tv on...hum still there?
post #4397 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

If you are using sat or cable box did you try to disconnect the feed and then turn on your sub? You may be able to isolate the source. what type of audio cable are you using for your sub..RCA, Coax or XLR?
Rca. I tried a different outlet. No more hum. Is a 100foot extension too long? As in power or voltage or something dropping. All they had was 16 gauge. Will see how warm the cord gets once i get a chance.
post #4398 of 11489
Yahoo everyone! I'm taking delivery of a brand new 65inchZT this Saturday, November 30, 3013. I will report back here when delivered and how things are going after set up. I want to thank Cleveland Plasma for all there support here on this thread. They really have cleared all the myths and cut through the negative chatter about the ZT series. I will definately pay a visit to CP in Cleveland on the way to my next trip to Columbus Ohio and purchase something there. I hear they have some good deals.

Being in Canada and some of the challenges we can have with product support, since we are a smaller market vs the U.S. I was concerned about getting a ZT panel and having to fight Panasonic about a faulty ZT panel if a problem arose. Not the case whatsover. My dealer said I have a week to make sure the panel is working properly and free of defects including any dead or stuck pixels. If there is problem within 7 days they will come back and swap it out for another panel. After 7 days the Panasonic warranty kicks in. I called Panasonic Canada and they stated that if stuck or dead pixels occurs or any other failure within the 1 year manufactures warranty that it will be covered by them. I asked them 3 times in different ways specifically about the pixels and they said yes each time that it is covered.

Also my panel will be arriving at dealer direct from Panasonic Canada's warehouse and ZT panels here in Canada are selling quickly and I hope this means that I will get a August or later build date with the fan fix installed already. We will see about that when panel arrives.

Guys I have a couple of questions if you could help me:

-I'm going to assume that the stand for the ZT must be assembled? How long will this take since I'm the one who will assemble it? The delivery guys will only unbox and inspect for visible outer panel damage and then leave. I have a friend who will help me put panel on assembled stand but later in the day.

-I live in a condo on the 17th floor and the delivery guys will have to use the moving elevator to bring up my ZT. The 65 inch ZT box in inches is the following: 75.8 wide, 40.5 high, 14.1 depth. The moving elevator in inches is the following: 82 wide, 100 high, 52 depth and the door to get into the elevator is 42 wide and about 80 or so high. Does anyone here see any issues or problems with this large size box/carton safely getting into the elevator? Let me know since I'm trying to project how much time this will all take. Also the elevator will be taken out of normal service to accomodate my delivery. I'm just trying to estimate all of the things that could cause problems for me and trying to mitigate those possible problems.

-and lastly any other feedback would be greatly appreciated?

Thanks guys
post #4399 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Rca. I tried a different outlet. No more hum. Is a 100foot extension too long? As in power or voltage or something dropping. All they had was 16 gauge. Will see how warm the cord gets once i get a chance.
Are you planning on leaving it plugged in there? If so I would get an industrial extension cord that is as short as possible. The kind you see at a construction site.
post #4400 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Could you reccomend a specific one for just my sub? The sub is a rythmik f-15HP. The HP designates a much more powerful amp.

Fortunately, I never had a ground loop problem at home so not familiar with particular models that you might use. I did have a 240v/120v isolation transformer on my boat so that is where I became familiar with the how they work. As mentioned elsewhere tonight you first should try all the simple stuff, like using another outlet, checking ground connections and actually verifying the problem is caused by a ground loop.
post #4401 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by cappy1 View Post

Fortunately, I never had a ground loop problem at home so not familiar with particular models that you might use. I did have a 240v/120v isolation transformer on my boat so that is where I became familiar with the how they work. As mentioned elsewhere tonight you first should try all the simple stuff, like using another outlet, checking ground connections and actually verifying the problem is caused by a ground loop.
Just solved it by using a different outlet. Would a 100 foot be too long?
post #4402 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Are you planning on leaving it plugged in there? If so I would get an industrial extension cord that is as short as possible. The kind you see at a construction site.
I guess ill have to measure whatever the shortest length and thickest gauge i can get away with.
post #4403 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Rca. I tried a different outlet. No more hum. Is a 100foot extension too long? As in power or voltage or something dropping. All they had was 16 gauge. Will see how warm the cord gets once i get a chance.

well that is better news. Doesn't the JL fantom have a ground lift switch?
post #4404 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

I guess ill have to measure whatever the shortest length and thickest gauge i can get away with.
Sounds like a good plan. Its not critical or anything but dont use 100 ft if you only need 40ft. And I would get a construction grade cord. You can get them all day at any hardware store.
post #4405 of 11489
Ya i need about 25 foot. But if i learned anything when measuring my speaker wire, you usually end up needing more. So 30 feet of 12 gauge is what i will get. Looks like lowes sells 15 footers, ill get 2 of those. On another note, been running slides and it seems the volume of buzz seems to have lowered. So much i can hear the fans in a dead silent room lol. But they dont pulse. Very quiet, nothing id actually ever notice or think about. Usually in dead silence, you can hear just about anything. Hopefully this isnt what everyones been complaining about, if so thats crazy.
post #4406 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Just solved it by using a different outlet. Would a 100 foot be too long?

If you get standard 16ga. wire it is rated for 13 amps continuous service, so at this load your sub will not "overheat" the power cable. I imagine the actual load will be much lower, but you can verify. At a 13 amp draw, the voltage drop might be around 5 volts or so, due to wire resistance on a 100' run, so unless you have a low voltage problem to begin with, I don't think voltage will be an issue. If you have a voltmeter you can always check the load voltage at the sub if the extension cord has a double outlet on the end.

Of course, as mentioned elsewhere, the larger the cable/wire size the lower the voltage drop.
post #4407 of 11489
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:20pm
post #4408 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by changboy View Post

Another way its to make lil hole down of the wall to join the outlet in the other room and use a shorter extension.
I live in a apt, also dont want to get that down and dirty, 30 feet of 12 gauge will do fine. Anyone know if any of the viewing modes has less input lag then others? Im aware turn on game mode and turn off any extra processing features. Curious is all, im sensitive to input lag.
post #4409 of 11489
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Ya i need about 25 foot. But if i learned anything when measuring my speaker wire, you usually end up needing more. So 30 feet of 12 gauge is what i will get. Looks like lowes sells 15 footers, ill get 2 of those. On another note, been running slides and it seems the volume of buzz seems to have lowered. So much i can hear the fans in a dead silent room lol. But they dont pulse. Very quiet, nothing id actually ever notice or think about. Usually in dead silence, you can hear just about anything. Hopefully this isnt what everyones been complaining about, if so thats crazy.
Personally I wouldnt use 2 cords. Where they plug together could be a fire hazard if laying on the floor and is just an overall weakness. If you cant find a 30 footer then I would get a 50. That will also give you some play if you ever decide to move the sub. You should be able to coil up the excess and shove it under the couch or something.
http://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-65050-50-Foot-Extension/dp/B002HWRS6S/ref=sr_1_6?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1385350632&sr=1-6&keywords=industrial+extension+cord
Edited by Bond 007 - 11/24/13 at 7:38pm
post #4410 of 11489
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:20pm
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