or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official ZT60 Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official ZT60 Owners Thread - Page 164

post #4891 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by cidsou View Post

My delivery from Paul's is scheduled for tomorrow. (Was supposed to have been yesterday but snow cancelled it). Really hope there are no issues with my unit. Its only supposed to be 27 degrees for the high here tomorrow, so I will not be able to turn it on when it is delivered.

I ordered it almost 2 weeks ago, but I think it is the sub-contracted delivery company of Radiant Logistics which has been slow. It has been with them since the 5th not 15 miles from my house....

Radiant Logistics delivered my original ZT and its replacement. Both sets came free of damage. Granted, the delivery guys tried to rush me into signing both times.
post #4892 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwiftSweeper View Post


Radiant Logistics delivered my original ZT and its replacement. Both sets came free of damage. Granted, the delivery guys tried to rush me into signing both times.

I think that's pretty standard across the board. They don't want to hang out while you admire your fancy new tv. 

 

Of course, I don't care about that in the slightest and make them stay while I inspect my delivery so when I do sign I am confident that all is well. 

post #4893 of 11380

I just received my Zt60 from Paul's TV.  No problem so far.  

 

For mac users, you have to remove the . files from the sd card or usb stick to get the slideshow running. 

 

Should be reading this thread from start to finish?  Any suggestions for getting the most from the tv.  I plan to try D-slide's setting as well as THX, possibly CNN.  I was considering trying the Disney WOW dvd.  I am new to all this.   Does the TV let you save multiple custom settings?


Edited by Mike Adri - 12/11/13 at 6:24pm
post #4894 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

My understanding is that BB is better but cost more. BB will cover burn in but ST will not.

In my case, Best Buy wanted $795 for five years, which was by far the most expensive of any I was considering and they would not budge on the price. Square Trade is half the price or less, depending if you buy it from them, Amazon or Costco. Not sure of the coverage differences but on face value, ST is a much better value for one less year.
post #4895 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmalczewski View Post

If you can't hear the fans from where you normally sit, I wouldn't bother with it. Most likely Panasonic can tell by your set's serial number, but August and later builds are supposed to have the fix in place as part of normal manufacturing. (All you've done is made me a bit skeptical about being able to use a flashlight to see if the fix is present.) Give it a week or two of watching/listening, it may take a while to really hear if anything is going on, to acclimate your ears. [Mine's a June build, took a few days to notice the fans, most notable during quieter dialog, or with volume off and no background noise (e.g., late at night). Not "fixed" yet.]

I sit about twelve feet from the set and with it muted, the fan sound I hear is somewhere between a low hum and a low rumble, but no buzz. In truth, the kitchen is in the next room and the refrigerator is against the wall that is right behind me; when the compressor is running, it is louder than the TV. Just out of curiousity, has anyone called Pan tech support with their serial number to find out if their TV has the kit installed?
post #4896 of 11380
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:40pm
post #4897 of 11380
Unless I am missing something, I can only see one rear facing speaker on the left side of the back. Bad enough not to have analog audio output, but no on board stereo speakers?
post #4898 of 11380
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:41pm
post #4899 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Influence View Post

My issue with the Panasonic technicians just looking at the pictures and saying it is not a defect is that if I "broke" the screen wouldn't the cracks continue into the black bezel area? Remember, this is a "one-sheet of glass" design. How could someone crack the screen and yet have the cracks magically stop right at the black bezel area? And the cracking appears to be beneath the layer of glass or at least on the back side of it.

I'm still under the belief that either the anti-reflective filter or possibly the color filter is debonding from the back of the glass pane. This would make a lot more sense. No way in heck I'm getting stuck with a $3000 TV that is only 100 days old that looks like this. I've got a SquareTrade warranty from Costco on this too, but they won't touch anything until after the manufacturer's warranty expires.
Fwiw, I recall seeing pictures like that in another thread, possibly on a corresponding UK board. Recall this was possibly due to laying the set on its face, when it went in for repair or something. Sorry to be so vague, but I've seen a picture like that before. That was where I first read that it wasn't a very good idea to lay a plasma set flat on its face. (Timeframe would have been a bit after I got my set in July.)

(Edit: It was not the thread that TheAnswer_03 linked to several posts back (end of previous page).)
Edited by fmalczewski - 12/11/13 at 7:57pm
post #4900 of 11380
I have about 350 hours on my set now and just noticed for the first time tonight what appears to be a stuck/dead red pixel. This one pixel is dark when playing a full field red pattern only - otherwise it is appropriately lit up.

It wasn't there over the first 100 hours when I was closely inspecting the panel periodically during the burn-in slides but I'm not sure when it could have become a problem after that :X.

Are there any tricks people have used to fix this type of problem? I am not sure the screen wipe would do any good since there isn't an issue with any other fields but red and I'm also not sure how long you are "supposed" to run the wipe for.

Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
Edited by mjodotcom - 12/11/13 at 11:37pm
post #4901 of 11380

Just curious how much volume (as in cubic/feet) in the speaker cavities.  I am wondering if I should block off some of the wall cavity?  My 265RT's are in 10"x90"x4" cavities.  Do you think I should stuff some insulation in there to make the volume smaller?

 

http://www.avsforum.com/g/i/318031/sketch-up-plan/sort/display_order/

post #4902 of 11380
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:41pm
post #4903 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

I have about 350 hours on my set now and just noticed for the first time tonight what appears to be a stuck/dead red pixel. This one pixel is dark when playing a full field red pattern only - otherwise it is appropriately lit up.

It wasn't there over the first 100 hours when I was closely inspecting the panel periodically during the burn-in slides but I'm not sure when it could have become a problem after that :X.

Are there any tricks people have used to fix this type of problem? I am not sure the screen wipe would do any good since there isn't an issue with any other fields but red and I'm also not sure how long you are "supposed" to run the wipe for.

Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated. Thanks.
The Disney WOW disc has a pixel flipper that may help. It turns the pixels on and off 96 times a second or something like that and can play continuously for hours. It also helps with IR.
post #4904 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstofiel View Post

Just curious how much volume (as in cubic/feet) in the speaker cavities.  I am wondering if I should block off some of the wall cavity?  My 265RT's are in 10"x90"x4" cavities.  Do you think I should stuff some insulation in there to make the volume smaller?

http://www.avsforum.com/g/i/318031/sketch-up-plan/sort/display_order/

We are running 265LS L/R's with the 255c-LS in what amounts to a cavern, in terms of volume; with negligible reflection. With your configuration - well done; by the way - I would be compelled to throw in additional insulation; without question.





FYI: This section should be limited to discussions on ZT's
post #4905 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

The Disney WOW disc has a pixel flipper that may help. It turns the pixels on and off 96 times a second or something like that and can play continuously for hours. It also helps with IR.

Thanks, I was thinking if picking that up for IR related stuff anyways so I'll give it a shot. Has it been known to "re-activate" stuck/dead sub pixels on a plasma like I appear to have?

If the pixel flipper doesn't work, any other tricks I can try? Good news is the pixel is only like 1" from the left bezel and 2/3 the way up the screen so it's not in a terribly obvious position. Also, like I said it just appears to be a sub pixel that is the problem and not the whole one.

I am debating how far I would take this fix, considering how great the picture is now after my last calibration run and the absence of other PQ problems on my set now that I might see on a new one (no banding, very minimal DSE, good uniformity, etc). Also, it is barely to not noticeable from my viewing distance.
post #4906 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Thanks, I was thinking if picking that up for IR related stuff anyways so I'll give it a shot. Has it been known to "re-activate" stuck/dead sub pixels on a plasma like I appear to have?

If the pixel flipper doesn't work, any other tricks I can try? Good news is the pixel is only like 1" from the left bezel and 2/3 the way up the screen so it's not in a terribly obvious position. Also, like I said it just appears to be a sub pixel that is the problem and not the whole one.

I am debating how far I would take this fix, considering how great the picture is now after my last calibration run and the absence of other PQ problems on my set now that I might see on a new one (no banding, very minimal DSE, good uniformity, etc). Also, it is barely to not noticeable from my viewing distance.
Yes. Thats why I suggested it. Hopefully it will work for you.
post #4907 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by shopit View Post

In my case, Best Buy wanted $795 for five years, which was by far the most expensive of any I was considering and they would not budge on the price. Square Trade is half the price or less, depending if you buy it from them, Amazon or Costco. Not sure of the coverage differences but on face value, ST is a much better value for one less year.
You do indeed get what you pay for. Stereophile has highlighted more details in the deals subforum, but ST limits how much they will reimburse you based on previous repairs that your TV may require while Best Buy does not, for instance. Best Buy also covers not only burn-in but also individually failing pixels. Had I purchased the coverage, I would have already replaced my set once after a defective subpixel appeared at 3 months into ownership (I purchased a Mack warranty).
Edited by vinnie97 - 12/12/13 at 8:42am
post #4908 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Thanks, I was thinking if picking that up for IR related stuff anyways so I'll give it a shot. Has it been known to "re-activate" stuck/dead sub pixels on a plasma like I appear to have?

If the pixel flipper doesn't work, any other tricks I can try? Good news is the pixel is only like 1" from the left bezel and 2/3 the way up the screen so it's not in a terribly obvious position. Also, like I said it just appears to be a sub pixel that is the problem and not the whole one.

I am debating how far I would take this fix, considering how great the picture is now after my last calibration run and the absence of other PQ problems on my set now that I might see on a new one (no banding, very minimal DSE, good uniformity, etc). Also, it is barely to not noticeable from my viewing distance.
I have owned two plasmas now that either had a defective subpixel from the first power-up (a Kuro) or at 3 months into ownership (a ZT60), and nothing I did brought them back to normal operation, including the much-lauded pixel flipper for the ZT60. I would just keep your expectations tempered and return it if you suspect its presence will wreck your nerves and you're still within the return window. I didn't have that choice but fortunately it's not visible at all from my viewing distance of 10 feet out (not even at 5 feet really either). Mine is similarly located well off-center on the left lower corner, so this helps to keep it out of sight and out of mind for the most part.
post #4909 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

I have owned two plasmas now that either had a defective subpixel from the first power-up (a Kuro) or at 3 months into ownership (a ZT60), and nothing I did brought them back to normal operation, including the much-lauded pixel flipper for the ZT60. I would just keep your expectations tempered and return it if you suspect its presence will wreck your nerves and you're still within the return window. I didn't have that choice but fortunately it's not visible at all from my viewing distance of 10 feet out (not even at 5 feet really either). Mine is similarly located well off-center on the left lower corner, so this helps to keep it out of sight and out of mind for the most part.

Vinnie,

Thanks for the additional insight. Good thing I got the set from Amazon which has an awesome return policy over the holidays such that I can exchange it up to 1/31. I might try a few other things first and hold off doing the exchange until a bit later, which would also increase my odds of getting a later build date if I do decide to go through the process wink.gif.

Fingers crossed!
post #4910 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by shopit View Post

In my case, Best Buy wanted $795 for five years.
That's a chunk of change there.........Not worth that price at all.
post #4911 of 11380
Are there any calibrated ZT60 image threads or posts any owners have made? Trying to decided between ZT and VT
Any help is appreciated!
post #4912 of 11380
So, D-Nice was here this morning and did his thing. I've tried taking some pictures of my TV with my phone's camera, but the pictures just aren't doing the results justice. I highly recommend a professional calibration to anyone considering it. This panel is just too nice not to maximize its abilities. The colors on movies like Avatar and Star Trek Into Darkness are absolutely amazing.

D-Nice said he travels from coast to coast for calibrations, so don't hesitate to contact him even if you're not in his area. He was very knowledgeable and professional, and I couldn't be happier with his results.
post #4913 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by UniversalGC View Post

So, D-Nice was here this morning and did his thing. I've tried taking some pictures of my TV with my phone's camera, but the pictures just aren't doing the results justice. I highly recommend a professional calibration to anyone considering it. This panel is just too nice not to maximize its abilities. The colors on movies like Avatar and Star Trek Into Darkness are absolutely amazing.

D-Nice said he travels from coast to coast for calibrations, so don't hesitate to contact him even if you're not in his area. He was very knowledgeable and professional, and I couldn't be happier with his results.

If you get a hold of a camera (that is not a phone) please PM me with some photos!
post #4914 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Yes. Thats why I suggested it. Hopefully it will work for you.

From what I have read something like this where the pixel is "darker" means it might actually be dying instead of "stuck" which cannot be fixed - is that right?

If I look super close at the pixel it does appear some red light is coming through it yet, though its almost like a dark cloudy red color. It is more noticeable if you move a few feet away from the panel.
post #4915 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Adri View Post

Should be reading this thread from start to finish?  Any suggestions for getting the most from the tv.  I plan to try D-slide's setting as well as THX, possibly CNN.  I was considering trying the Disney WOW dvd.  I am new to all this.   Does the TV let you save multiple custom settings?
My advice: Go through the setup tutorial, then proceed to watch TV as you normally would, being careful to avoid long-term exposure to fixed logos, tickers and non-16:9 content for the first 100-300 hours (give or take). If you want to take things to the "high maintenance" level, run slides to accelerate reaching the 300 hour point, but any regular 16:9 content will effectively accomplish the same thing as slides. Use whatever picture mode you like but the THX Cinema seems to offer the best overall picture. Once you're out of the break-in period you can stick with one of the picture modes or use someone else's settings (Sammie, D-Nice, CNET, Sound & Vision), but to achieve optimum picture quality you'll want to consider hiring a pro to calibrate your TV.

You're free to read this thread from start to finish but if you really want to do yourself a favor, stop following it immediately. smile.gif

Good luck and enjoy.
post #4916 of 11380
Well the repair guy was just here for the second attempt on my ZT. I have noisy fans and loud buzzing, june build date. He replaced one of fans but did not install any foam, he replaced one of the circuit boards but not the power supply. Fans are still loud and buzzing was only slightly reduced but still audible over dialogue on bright scenes.
post #4917 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by elbobo19 View Post

Well the repair guy was just here for the second attempt on my ZT. I have noisy fans and loud buzzing, june build date. He replaced one of fans but did not install any foam, he replaced one of the circuit boards but not the power supply. Fans are still loud and buzzing was only slightly reduced but still audible over dialogue on bright scenes.
Rats, sorry to hear that. I have my circuit board replacement appt tomorrow. We'll see what happens.
post #4918 of 11380
deleted
Edited by changboy - 12/29/13 at 9:41pm
post #4919 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by changboy View Post

What this circuit board do in the panel ? its the first time i read someone change a board inside.
I'm not sure what circuit board the technician is planning to replace. I guess I'll find out tomorrow. This is for the buzzing issue, not the fan fix.
post #4920 of 11380
Quote:
Originally Posted by vahighland View Post

I'm not sure what circuit board the technician is planning to replace. I guess I'll find out tomorrow. This is for the buzzing issue, not the fan fix.


on mine he replaced the board directly under the fan on the left side of this picture. (pic is not of my TV, I took it from the fan noise thread)

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official ZT60 Owners Thread