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Official ZT60 Owners Thread - Page 254

post #7591 of 11442
Quick question for the forum: when I put motion smoother to weak (or any setting other than off) I notice the lip synch seems slightly off. It seems as though the movements of the nought are to smooth to match up with the dialogue. When it is off it is beautiful and spot on. Does anyone else experience this or even use motion smoother? I use cinema and thx movie modes.
post #7592 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrMichael View Post

Quick question for the forum: when I put motion smoother to weak (or any setting other than off) I notice the lip synch seems slightly off. It seems as though the movements of the nought are to smooth to match up with the dialogue. When it is off it is beautiful and spot on. Does anyone else experience this or even use motion smoother? I use cinema and thx movie modes.
Thats because your introducing heavy processing which makes the picture lag and come out of sync with the audio
I hate all motion smoothing
post #7593 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by kluken View Post

Agreed, I am going to run a heavy duty extension cord down inside the wall and bring it out behind the A/V cabinet so I can keep everything on UPS


Do not do this as it against building codes & could be a fire hazard as well as not being covered by insurance if you have a problem.
What I did was do a power bridge ,I picked up a rescessed dual outlet surge protecter wall outlet setup with wall plate with holes for cables from home depot ,ran the proper electrical wire down to another home theater wall plate picked up a male electrical connector from a electrical supply house & fitted it to the lower wall plate. I have a a/c extension cord plugged into a p/s audio High current audio outlet.,which is plugged into a wall outlet.
Doing it this way you can use whatever protection device you want to feed your Tv. I have seen complete power bridge kits available to accomplish the same thing posted in the forums before.
post #7594 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by bozebuttons View Post

Do not do this as it against building codes & could be a fire hazard as well as not being covered by insurance if you have a problem.
What I did was do a power bridge ,I picked up a rescessed dual outlet surge protecter wall outlet setup with wall plate with holes for cables from home depot ,ran the proper electrical wire down to another home theater wall plate picked up a male electrical connector from a electrical supply house & fitted it to the lower wall plate. I have a a/c extension cord plugged into a p/s audio High current audio outlet.,which is plugged into a wall outlet.
Doing it this way you can use whatever protection device you want to feed your Tv. I have seen complete power bridge kits available to accomplish the same thing posted in the forums before.

Agreed..

Here is info for DIY Powerbridge (original one)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/978306/do-you-want-the-actual-inlet-outlet-used-in-the-powerbridge-if-so-here-you-go

Monoprice may have an inexpensive option now to..


.
post #7595 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by bozebuttons View Post

Do not do this as it against building codes & could be a fire hazard as well as not being covered by insurance if you have a problem.
What I did was do a power bridge ,I picked up a rescessed dual outlet surge protecter wall outlet setup with wall plate with holes for cables from home depot ,ran the proper electrical wire down to another home theater wall plate picked up a male electrical connector from a electrical supply house & fitted it to the lower wall plate. I have a a/c extension cord plugged into a p/s audio High current audio outlet.,which is plugged into a wall outlet.
Doing it this way you can use whatever protection device you want to feed your Tv. I have seen complete power bridge kits available to accomplish the same thing posted in the forums before.

I was actually thinking about this option, so thanks for the info.
post #7596 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View PostI know! I used settings from Sound and Vision and CNET and they are fantastic!

Makes me think a $400 calibration is over-rated

Link from Sound & Vision

post #7597 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

Dude Its a color filter....I thought for a second it was another panel of glass. And I dont know of any other plasma model from Samsung or Panasonic ( two best plasma manufacturers in the last 5-6 years ) that have two panels of glass other than the VT60 ( Due to its one sheet of glass design ) so I dont know what Pioneer is talking about when they mention this that..... "Most plasma screens employ two front sheets of glass, creating secondary reflections at some viewing angels"...Maybe displays back in 2007 had two panels of glass so a light filter could be applied but not anymore

FYI every display manufacturer now bonds the light filter to their glass panel...even low end models from Panasonic and Samsung.....Thats the only way it can be applied. Whether it is bonded in an autoclave or bonded using some type of glue coating or compression glue coating is something I dont know but that doesnt make Pioneer exclusive for doing that....TBH, pioneer just gave a common practice ( by 2014 standards ) a fancy name...though I doubt in 2007 other plasma manufacturers were fiddling around with light filter the way Pioneer had. Its obviously a different story now. Look at the Samsung F8500 plasma, it has a fantastic light filter.

This is what David M from hdtvtest.co.uk had to say about the proposed Studio Master Panel ( he doesnt even mention the "bonding" process of the ultimate black filter because its such a common feature to have nowadays)

"In any case, this new direct bonding process means that light from the screen can be directly transmitted to the outside world with absolutely no internal reflections. The result is the clarity (and we presume also much of the contrast efficiency?) of a “bare” panel, with zero internal reflections, with the aesthetics of a “one-sheet-of-glass” design, the best of both worlds."

SOURCE: http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/panasonic-txp60zt65b-201305062961.htm

My theory on this bonding process is that it put the ZT60 back on the same playing field with displays that didnt have a second pane of glass to deal with. I doubt this bodning feature has a positive effect on the image but it shoudlnt anyways.... the real magic of this method is that it enhances the effect of the Ultimate Black Filter which is why the ZT60 is able to keep blacks soo darn black in broad daylight...there are NO reflections on the inside to deal with

I think the VT and ZT share the same light filter but the removed air gap from the ZT60 gives the ZT60 its fantastic light rejection properties

I never said Pioneer was *exclusive*, I just said that Pioneer was doing single sheet of glass first, obviously at a time when most PDPs were still probably similar to the current LG design. If you stand nearly to the edge of the PDP on the Pioneer you get the same effect where the picture almost seems to be damn near right on the glass rather than anywhere behind it. So sure the Panasonic does that also, but it just pushes the effect so that it looks like the image is coming from flush with the single sheet design rather than an inset sunken in panel. I don't actually think we disagree tbh. As for the light rejection, it doesn't appear any better to my eyes in the ZT to the Kuro. They both look like world standard displays in any kind of light to me. But my eye might not be critical enough to see a significant difference. I like them both.
post #7598 of 11442
I'm officially in love with this TV, but I'll have to move to Massachusetts to actually marry it.

I put on a couple of favorite movies the other night: "Contact" and "Forbidden Planet". Contact was good, bu Forbidden Planet was phenomenal. I first saw this movie 50 years ago, and I've literally never seen it like this. Part of it is coming from a 32" standard definition CRT viewed from 12 feet to a 65" HD set viewed from 9 feet, but it really is like being in a theater - minus the sticky floors and people chatting on cell phones. The image is so large that I can see details I never noticed before, like the crew lounge on the space ship. It is possible to watch the actors working their lines and to notice small gestures and expressions that are lost on a small screen. I was using headphones, and I accidentally plugged in the surround channels of my Oppo 93, so I also heard things I never heard before, like the monster breathing as he walks by. And the kicker is, these were DVDs, not Blu-ray. The Blu-rays arrived today, and the image is even better. Turn on the motion smoother and crank it up to "strong" and you are now on the stage set, watching the actors from a few feet away. (Yes I know, it should be off, and it normally will be, but this is an interesting way to analyze the film and get a totally different point of view.)

I went through three weeks of anxiety looking for defects and expecting the screen to crack at any minute, but it was worth it. With luck, I'm set for a few years until 4K and OLED become mainstream and affordable.
post #7599 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrygeary View Post

I'm officially in love with this TV, but I'll have to move to Massachusetts to actually marry it.

I put on a couple of favorite movies the other night: "Contact" and "Forbidden Planet". Contact was good, bu Forbidden Planet was phenomenal. I first saw this movie 50 years ago, and I've literally never seen it like this. Part of it is coming from a 32" standard definition CRT viewed from 12 feet to a 65" HD set viewed from 9 feet, but it really is like being in a theater - minus the sticky floors and people chatting on cell phones. The image is so large that I can see details I never noticed before, like the crew lounge on the space ship. It is possible to watch the actors working their lines and to notice small gestures and expressions that are lost on a small screen. I was using headphones, and I accidentally plugged in the surround channels of my Oppo 93, so I also heard things I never heard before, like the monster breathing as he walks by. And the kicker is, these were DVDs, not Blu-ray. The Blu-rays arrived today, and the image is even better. Turn on the motion smoother and crank it up to "strong" and you are now on the stage set, watching the actors from a few feet away. (Yes I know, it should be off, and it normally will be, but this is an interesting way to analyze the film and get a totally different point of view.)

I went through three weeks of anxiety looking for defects and expecting the screen to crack at any minute, but it was worth it. With luck, I'm set for a few years until 4K and OLED become mainstream and affordable.

I've only had my ZT for 1 week. At 98 hours just about broken in. But still in the anxiety phase! I keep reminding myself this is my forth Panasonic plasma and not one has every had a problem. The oldest will be 9 years old in February. Picture still looks great.
post #7600 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW1820 View Post
 

Has anyone got any suggested settings that they like best for the Netflix stream direct off the set? The THX mode is not available for that application. My set is 10 days old, 80 hours, all stock. Here's what I think looks pretty killer on House of Cards and a couple IMAX nature movies.

 

Custom Mode

contrast 55

brightness +10

color 45

tint 0

sharpness 50

color temp normal

vivid off

Brilliance enhancer off

motion smoother weak

 

Thoughts?


Anyone care to comment?

post #7601 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW1820 View Post


Anyone care to comment?

What's important is how it looks to you. I use Cnet settings in Cinema mode, and it looks a touch better than THX Cinema to me, though I sometimes think that faces have a bit too much red. Eventually I'll have it calibrated. You can always play with one of the test discs.
post #7602 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrygeary View Post


What's important is how it looks to you. I use Cnet settings in Cinema mode, and it looks a touch better than THX Cinema to me, though I sometimes think that faces have a bit too much red. Eventually I'll have it calibrated. You can always play with one of the test discs.


I plan to buy Disney's WOW one of these days. I'm perplexed why the Netflix App omits the THX setting. I do like it for stock viewing though. I have not tried any of the settings bandied about on the boards. I was impressed with what I came up with for Netflix but didn't like it as much for cable. Like all of you, I'll be playing around with this for a good while until I can spring for a calibration.

post #7603 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW1820 View Post


Anyone care to comment?

I can post up tomorrow if you really want a comparison from a long time 700U owner. FWIW, I've had the set since Oct., and have been using combinations of the various sets of settings from the net, mainly to get DishNetw feed looking good. I've mainly watched Netflix from Roku 3, so I'll have to play with it a bit. This also from someone partial to the "D-Nice Night" set...however it was pushing red too much on my Dish feed, so I've dialed back a bit of color, just to give you an idea.

*** update: The settings you posted looked pretty good...once AGC an Black Extension were both set to "0". FWIW, I watched POTC Black Pearl, on wireless, and only hit 720p. I could not get out of 480p mode after FF/Rew a few times. Logged out of Netflix, went to "wired" and hit 1080p. This on 50/25 FIOS and wireless setup on Nighthawk router good for 58/39 wifi "speed tests". Also, it seems like the native Netflix app on the ZT has a a noticeably sharper picture than the Roku 3. Seems like the ZT's feed/software is running at a higher bitrate?
Edited by colnago - 1/24/14 at 10:23pm
post #7604 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by colnago View Post


I can post up tomorrow if you really want a comparison from a long time 700U owner. FWIW, I've had the set since Oct., and have been using combinations of the various sets of settings from the net, mainly to get DishNetw feed looking good. I've mainly watched Netflix from Roku 3, so I'll have to play with it a bit. This also from someone partial to the "D-Nice Night" set...however it was pushing red too much on my Dish feed, so I've dialed back a bit of color, just to give you an idea.

*** update: The settings you posted looked pretty good...once AGC an Black Extension were both set to "0". FWIW, I watched POTC Black Pearl, on wireless, and only hit 720p. I could not get out of 480p mode after FF/Rew a few times. Logged out of Netflix, went to "wired" and hit 1080p. This on 50/25 FIOS and wireless setup on Nighthawk router good for 58/39 wifi "speed tests". Also, it seems like the native Netflix app on the ZT has a a noticeably sharper picture than the Roku 3. Seems like the ZT's feed/software is running at a higher bitrate?


This is what I wanted to know. You can compare the native ZT app to Roku going into HDMI. I found the picture very sharp once it hit 1080P. Like you said, not always achievable on wifi. It usually ramps up. Mine was dancing around 480, 720p, and 1080P. I have not ventured into the pro controls of any inputs or pic modes yet.

post #7605 of 11442
We upgraded from a 50" elite (pro111fd) to the 60zt and have to say the picture is super bright, which is fine, blacks are close, which is fine, color is close, which is fine, but the flickering on 60hz video (comcast via TiVo premiere 4xl) is awful in comparison. What adjustment or picture setting can I work with to correct or improve this? I have all processing settings turned off.

24p content in the 96hz mode is good, but two specific examples from 60hz content: watching American football, the chain gang and their orange first down marker is noticeably flickering on fast pans. I don't know if I would call it inconsistent, but definitely flickering. Watching CSI camera pans of a dark scene with focused lights (think a lab scene) is flickering like crazy during fast pans.

Separate difference between the pioneer and the panasonic: playing fifa via xbox one, there is built in motion blur on goal kicks, which I find obnoxious. (I understand the idea, it looks blurry when watching European football when a long pass or goal kick happens, but why build in a picture flaw into your game?). Anyway, during these goal kicks, the pioneer had a smooth picture, but with two visible but overlapping balls for a short time. The panasonic is far less smooth, with the balls not being distinctly separate. I have played fifa for years on xbox 360 through the pioneer, and then through the xbox one, and the panasonic is noticeably worse at handling the unique motion. Considering the size upgrade, I would expect the opposite to be true, more separation visible between the balls.

Anyway, any thoughts about how to reduce the 60hz flickering? Thanks.
post #7606 of 11442
The Pioneers apparently processed motion differently than the final Panasonics. To those who are afflicted by it, I am not sure there's a cure. I noticed flicker even in 92Hz in occasional bright backgrounds when I first upgraded (also from a 111FD), but have apparently subconsciously tuned this out because I no longer notice it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW1820 View Post


This is what I wanted to know. You can compare the native ZT app to Roku going into HDMI. I found the picture very sharp once it hit 1080P. Like you said, not always achievable on wifi. It usually ramps up. Mine was dancing around 480, 720p, and 1080P. I have not ventured into the pro controls of any inputs or pic modes yet.
I can stream 1080p MKVs from my laptop wirelessly to the Oppo 103 with nary a hiccup 95% of the time. This of course requires a modern router that supports the N standard at a bare minimum and a relatively clear wireless channel (5Ghz tends to be much more clear than 2.4Ghz and thus requires no to minimal channel hunting, though range is somewhat decreased at the higher freq). Netflix should be able to take advantage of this optimization as well (even more so since its bandwidth requirements are much less than H.264 video within an MKV container, to say nothing of the audio). Netflix on a ZT is a bit of a travesty for a superior panel such as this anyway. smile.gif
Edited by vinnie97 - 1/25/14 at 1:18am
post #7607 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW1820 View Post

Has anyone got any suggested settings that they like best for the Netflix stream direct off the set? The THX mode is not available for that application. My set is 10 days old, 80 hours, all stock. Here's what I think looks pretty killer on House of Cards and a couple IMAX nature movies.

Custom Mode
contrast 55
brightness +10
color 45
tint 0
sharpness 50
color temp normal
vivid off
Brilliance enhancer off
motion smoother weak

Thoughts?

It's hard to suggest what settings you should use bc each display is different....the best thing to do would to be get a calibration disc off amazon like spears and munsil or wonderful world of Disney or something

I can make a few suggestions that should be the same for every display LCD or plasma or OLED

Sharpness 0
Color temp warm 2
All picture enhancement options should be off except for motion smoothing.....for panasonics "Weak" seems to be prefered
Try boosting your contrast a little higher....55 is way to low. I'm surprised you haven't complained about a lack of brightness
Brightness should be near 0 or one or two notches up.
Tint remains untouched
Gamma should be 2.2 or 2.4
Panel brightness should be mid

Other than that a complete calibration would suit you best or just use thx cinema....it's extremely close to a perfect calibration
post #7608 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidW1820 View Post


Anyone care to comment?
Turn your contrast up to 65, return brightness to 0. Turn sharpness down. Turn off motion smoothing. Switch to a pro mode with mid panel brightness
post #7609 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post


Other than that a complete calibration would suit you best or just use thx cinema....it's extremely close to a perfect calibration

Why bother with calibration if THX CINEMA is extremely close to calibration biggrin.gif
post #7610 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

Why bother with calibration if THX CINEMA is extremely close to calibration biggrin.gif
I'm with you but understand that many folks like the best you can possibly get - if we all didn't feel that way (to some extent) we would have bought $ 499 HDTV

I used the CNET & Home Theater (now Sound&vision) settings in professional 1&2

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-593204/panasonic-tc-p60zt60-picture-settings/

http://www.soundandvision.com/content/panasonic-tc-p65zt60-3d-plasma-hdtv-settings
post #7611 of 11442
Im not with either of you, after having my cal done whites dont look grey, no more green faces, and colors are less washed out looking then thx cinema, they are more saturated and vivid (not in a bad or extreme way), and i had a orange tint that really screwed up skin tones. Thx cinema did look good to me too, except the green faces, but now its pretty evident how dfferent a calibrated set looks. If you guys think your sets in thx cinema are the greatest thing ever, thats good, youll be 400 dollars richer, i just want you guys to know its probably very off. Lol
post #7612 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Im not with either of you, after having my cal done whites dont look grey, no more green faces, and colors are less washed out looking then thx cinema, they are more saturated and vivid (not in a bad or extreme way), and i had a orange tint that really screwed up skin tones. Thx cinema did look good to me too, except the green faces, but now its pretty evident how dfferent a calibrated set looks. If you guys think your sets in thx cinema are the greatest thing ever, thats good, youll be 400 dollars richer, i just want you guys to know its probably very off. Lol

You can get a calibration for a lot less than $400, what do you all think of the geek squad wink.gif
post #7613 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

You can get a calibration for a lot less than $400, what do you all think of the geek squad wink.gif

Run - don't walk - run from the Geek Squad. Seriously. They can make things even worse in some cases.
post #7614 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Im not with either of you, after having my cal done whites dont look grey, no more green faces, and colors are less washed out looking then thx cinema, they are more saturated and vivid (not in a bad or extreme way), and i had a orange tint that really screwed up skin tones. Thx cinema did look good to me too, except the green faces, but now its pretty evident how dfferent a calibrated set looks. If you guys think your sets in thx cinema are the greatest thing ever, thats good, youll be 400 dollars richer, i just want you guys to know its probably very off. Lol

Or you can do what I did - put that 400$ towards CalMAN and a decent colorimeter and learn how to calibrate yourself! That way, you are completely self sufficient to do TV upgrades (and all the TVs/monitors in your house), try out different gamma targets, etc.
post #7615 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

The Pioneers apparently processed motion differently than the final Panasonics. To those who are afflicted by it, I am not sure there's a cure. I noticed flicker even in 92Hz in occasional bright backgrounds when I first upgraded (also from a 111FD), but have apparently subconsciously tuned this out because I no longer notice it.
I can stream 1080p MKVs from my laptop wirelessly to the Oppo 103 with nary a hiccup 95% of the time. This of course requires a modern router that supports the N standard at a bare minimum and a relatively clear wireless channel (5Ghz tends to be much more clear than 2.4Ghz and thus requires no to minimal channel hunting, though range is somewhat decreased at the higher freq). Netflix should be able to take advantage of this optimization as well (even more so since its bandwidth requirements are much less than H.264 video within an MKV container, to say nothing of the audio). Netflix on a ZT is a bit of a travesty for a superior panel such as this anyway. smile.gif

I don't know...Netflix looks much better on my ZT than on the Roku 3. At least when it can get 1080p working...not sure how to check status while on the Roku. I've been able to get 1080p on wireless on the ZT, and its connected to my N/ac bands (router also has separate a/b/g bands). That said, one shouldn't have to keep restarting the app to get 1080p negotiated via wifi. Its acually the first time Netflix has looked like BlueRay to me via the ZTs native app (again POTC Black Pearl).
post #7616 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjodotcom View Post

Or you can do what I did - put that 400$ towards CalMAN and a decent colorimeter and learn how to calibrate yourself! That way, you are completely self sufficient to do TV upgrades (and all the TVs/monitors in your house), try out different gamma targets, etc.

Bottom line for a mid price system?? $ 500 to $ 600 - More???
post #7617 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

You can get a calibration for a lot less than $400, what do you all think of the geek squad wink.gif
Im sure the readers cringed at your post, geek squad is supposed to be terrible.
post #7618 of 11442
HELP! So, I was one of the lucky ones with the micro-fracture cracking. I had submitted the issue to Panasonic last Friday. I just spoke with them. They do not have any replacement TVs, so they are sending a refund check to one of service centers, who will pick up the TV and give me the check. Unfortunately, I already sold my old TV. Any advice would be appreciated.

Should I try to hunt down another ZT? Go for a VT or the Samsung?
post #7619 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by vahighland View Post

HELP! So, I was one of the lucky ones with the micro-fracture cracking. I had submitted the issue to Panasonic last Friday. I just spoke with them. They do not have any replacement TVs, so they are sending a refund check to one of service centers, who will pick up the TV and give me the check. Unfortunately, I already sold my old TV. Any advice would be appreciated.

Should I try to hunt down another ZT? Go for a VT or the Samsung?

Look for a ZT they are around but getting pricey if not I would go for the VT! every review said they are very close in performance - next is the Samsung F8000
post #7620 of 11442
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrygeary View Post

What's important is how it looks to you. I use Cnet settings in Cinema mode, and it looks a touch better than THX Cinema to me, though I sometimes think that faces have a bit too much red. Eventually I'll have it calibrated. You can always play with one of the test discs.

I too found that Cnet's settings are the best for Netflix app. Another option (if you have this) is to use Netflix through PS3 or PS4 or another BDP option, for instance, and use THX Cinema. I do that sometimes too.
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