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Would a projector work for me - Page 5

post #121 of 219
1st BUY Longer Cables to accommodate a possible upgrade, mount the projector at the optimum distance for the projector, worry about tomorrow, tomorrow
post #122 of 219
Thread Starter 
Sonyad. I do need to chill. I may have a stroke over thinking this eek.gif

Todd: Cable are 30ft so that should not be an issue. Good point about the optimum. Question is what is the optimum for the 1070 and 108" screen? Middle of the throw range with 50% zoom or farthest TR at 0% zoom? hmm..........
post #123 of 219
Generally you should see a slight increase in contrast, the further back it is placed.
post #124 of 219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

Generally you should see a slight increase in contrast, the further back it is placed.

So maybe mounting at 11'9" may be a better idea. Projector is bright from what I understand and it's only 1.5" more than where I was originally mounting it. The PC calculator shows i'll be losing 3fl by moving the projector back 1'6".
Edited by squigly1 - 6/15/13 at 9:31pm
post #125 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by squigly1 View Post

Whatever you do, do not go soley based on my word. I don't really have a reference as I have not seen other screen. It was the 1.0 white gain screen. I was sitting like 10ft away and it look great. When he put up other samples against the white background I could see what I thought was screen texture. Obviously the samples were intended to do that. Standing like inches in front of the screen with nothing viewing the texture wasn't too visible. Then again, I'm not even sure what I'm looking for.

thanks for the reply. honestly, I've only had super cheap screens, and the 'best' (almost) was a light grey bedsheet I used to test if getting a grey screen was worth the effort. I never got the wrinkles out of it(as it was just hanging, with no tension) but it was actually pretty decent. basically acoustically transparent, and my IR remote worked right through it. that was maybe the most appealing because my cable box hides behind my screen when it's down all the way and I can't change channels.

i'm envious that you can check out things first hand. not many options to do that here, and what is on display is definitely not in the 'value' category:rolleyes:
post #126 of 219
I will say that any mount other than the Chief RPM series has not been close, The next closest may be the Peerless RPG series (I believe), but it is not as tight or as accurate at the Chief.

You can save some space with the Chief by getting their custom plate for your specific projector.

I have used the Omni mount, and it is one of the worst I have encountered for fine tuning. It just sucks. It certainly holds a projector solid enough once locked in, but it is impossible to lock it in position without the projector shifting, which is unacceptable when you want a precision setup.

For projector placement, it really doesn't matter that much. The lens zoom range on the BenQ is extremely tight and you get very little in the way of light value change from closest to furthest from the screen. With most projectors I recommend about 25% back from closest to increase brightness, but because the W1070 is so bright, I would probably go about 75% back from closest.

For cable routing, it depends on how your joists are laid in place, but if you want to future proof, you can run your HDMI cable through the ceiling several feet back, then run it forward to the location you currently need it at. In the future, should you need to pull it back so that it is further from the screen, then you can do so. Realistically, this is something that can be done later on if necessary, as you have no idea what projector you may end up getting, but it is still something you may choose to do now. Likewise I would recommend that you pull an extra 5 to 10 feet of cable and leave it up inside the ceiling near the projector so you have some slack in the cable you can work with later on if you want to.
post #127 of 219
Thread Starter 
Ok, I've calmed down and much less stressed. Going to mount the screen so that the bottom is 22" from the floor. That leaves 9" from top of screen to ceiling. Should be able to make it work, I hope. Now the question is if I can get the box or the longest item in the box down the stairs. Stupid right/left type turn from the floor above the basement down the stairs to the basement. Not stressing it though. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

As for the mount, I'm going to take AV's advice and get the Chief. At this poing there's no sense cheapening out. I'm confused how it mounts to the ceiling. Below is a pic of the mount:


Does it need some pipe like thing to go in the top which is then screwed into the ceiling or do we just use four screws in the visible holes and screw/mount onto the ceiling? Would it be advisible to get the custom plate and what exactly would i need to get? Looked on the Chief site but not sure what it is.

For projector placement I am going to mount it at like 11'2" from the screen. That is 7" from the farthest of the throw range scale of 9'-11'9" but allows a different projector to be mounted at the same location and just use a lot of zoom to get it to work. I can always move it back if I deem it necessary. At 11'2" the W0170 will be using 1.05 zoom. Am I good?

The joists run across the ceiling and from what I can tell they're at 16" apart. I'm likely off in my measurement as witnessed in previous measuring attempts. All cables are 30ft so I should have some room for slack. Worse case I'll have to run longer ones if the need arises.

Still confused as to where to put the outlet and cables. From what I gather the proejctor will need to go at like 62" off the left wall (looking at the screen) since the lens will be like 2" to the right of centre (64") when turned over. Do I put the outlet at 60" off the right wall or should it be in the high 50" range (57-59 inch)? How many inches behind 11'2" should it go?

Been working on decluttering the room. Got all AV equipment out other than the TV, which will be the last thing to go and it wont got until screen and projector are ready to be installed. Lots of boxes and bags full of crap. It's amazing how much stuff you accumulate over the years. More to get ready over the next couple week.to be junked outta here.

Lighting question. What kind of dimmers can I use to enable dimming via PC, iphone or harmony one remote? I found this Lutron dimmer at HD but I can only use one in the room so only one zone. If I had two they would both operate at the same frequency so all lights would dim.

Thanks as always
post #128 of 219
Strangely, Chief doesn't look like they have a custom plate available for the W1070. They do offer the RSMAU, which is a smaller version of the RPMAU mount, and may have a slightly lower stacking height which would be good for you. Since you are having some work done on your ceiling, potentially you could have a small section raised up a bit to give you a bit more play in your setup, but this would be difficult for adjusting the mount. But, give Chief a call or send them an email and specifically ask about a custom plate for the W1070. I actually ended up making one for my W1070 out of a plate that I didn't use on an old projection installation, and it worked absolutely perfectly, but took a while to fabricate. I would think that if you email/call Chief they would let you know if you can get a custom bracket for the projector.

I needed to make one because I made a lift for my projector which required an extremely minimal amount of clearance for the projector and the mount. It ended up working alright, but it is not nearly as solid as I would like.

Keep in mind, that the screen to projector distance is to the LENS of the projector, not the center of the mount. So, the mount must be back several inches from the distance you want the lens at. Typically you take the depth of the projector, divide it in half, and move the mount back that far. So, if you want 11'2" to the lens, and the projector is 12" deep, then the mount should be at 11'8" from the screen. And yes, a couple inches to the left of the center of the screen.
post #129 of 219
Thread Starter 
I'm still confused (no surprise) about mounting. Under normal circumstances when you purchase the mount is everything included or is the extension a seperate item? If the mount purchase is just like the picture in my post above how does it mount to the ceiling? I've emailed Chief about a bracket. I also found a Canadian email address and contact info on their site for a distributor or dealer.
post #130 of 219
Dude, really , here's what you need.
1) tumbler, 8oz. (12-16oz. Better)
2) 4 ice cubes
3) single malt of your choice
4) comfortable chair
Sit in #4 , combine #'s 1-3 and consume, repeating as necessary until you don't remember anything about a projector.
When you recover consider hiring a contractor to hang it for you. Not saying that you can't, or that People aren't willing to help you, but it sounds like you might never hang it out of fear possibly hanging it wrong and second guessing yourself. You've mentioned you are unsure about your measuring abilities, and the possibility of messing up, I'm just thinking that you might save your sanity if you hire this out. Look for a HT installer in your area and relax. If you are determined to DIY and you aren't as stressed as it appears and not going bald over this then cool, and best luck to you.
I thought you didn't need an extension, but a lot of on line retailers list the parts included in the kit, I believe all PJ mounts come with the ceiling attachment so you will be fine there. Order the PJ and mount, when they arrive measure the height of the mount so you know it exactly. Stack books on the floor at the throw distance you think you need, set the PJ on the books and turn it on. When you get the image size and placement you are happy with ( remember the image will be 22" from the CEILING doing this). When you have the PJ in the right spot on the floor, take a measurement from the screen and from the side wall, then transfer those measurements to your ceiling. You can also see how long the power cord is so you can plan where to run power and signal in your ceiling.
I really hope you get everything set up and get to enjoy your new system soon. Best of luck.
post #131 of 219
Thread Starter 
I am contracting the install out. Already bald, and not stressing anymore. Looked at the mount on the Chief site and it isn't really clear if a ceiling attachment was included. I would have thought yes but this is all new to me so I thought I'd ask.

AV: I received a reply from that Canadian email address. They are just the Canadian Distributor and don't sell to the public. They gave me contact info for a company that does sell to the public. I checked the website but their prices are way off what I can get this for from US retailer. Their loss.
post #132 of 219
I just checked it out on their website and did a double check and checked the Products Compatible with RPMAU.
Is this for the BenQ W1070 ?
I checked it and if I am seeing wrong the BenQ is compatible with the RPMAU.
Squily1 ? I am going to go out on a limb here and look stupid if I am wrong but I am going to assume that a ceiling attachment plate ? rod ? will be included with this mount.
I don't see why they would not also put in their with the package a way to attach the mount to the ceiling.
Squily1 yes this process can spilt a few gray hairs but the ride of getting there is all the fun.
I hope your contracted installer might be able to find a way to intall this recessed between the floor joists and maybe finish the hole with some sheet rock to make it look nice if it's possible.
I saw the mount on the website, nice biggrin.gif quick release attachments and finger tilt.. double nice biggrin.gif.
For me can only afford the Amazon $ 19.95 tube plate special for now.
post #133 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by squigly1 View Post

AV: I received a reply from that Canadian email address. They are just the Canadian Distributor and don't sell to the public. They gave me contact info for a company that does sell to the public. I checked the website but their prices are way off what I can get this for from US retailer. Their loss.
Check eBay - always. I just picked up a RPMAU last night for under $100 shipped to my door.

Just a reminder to the person who posted previously that Chief mounts do not come with an extension column or ceiling plate as there are dozens of different ceiling options for their products.
post #134 of 219
Thread Starter 
DLPfan: Yes, Benq w1070. The RPMAU is compatible with the w0170 but I may get the RSMAU (also compatible with w1070) instead. It is a bit shorter in height. I'm still looking for an installer. The first person I spoke to quoted me what I thought was quite a high price.. He was also going to use the OmniMount. Spoke to another guy and he was quite a bit cheaper. I beleive the first person is more talented but who knows for sure. I doubt either could or would try to get this recessed and finish holes. No one I know has a projector so I don't have a recommendation for an installer. I have time to find one as lights and paint aren't until next month.

AV: I've yet to find one that on Ebay that cheap, and they also must ship up here. Some wont. Want to sell and ship me the one you bought last night smile.gif I've found online retailers (though more than $100) that will ship up here and the prices are quite a bit cheaper than buying locally. Do the mounts come with a ceiling plate or is one not really needed to attach the mount to the ceiling?
Edited by squigly1 - 6/19/13 at 8:09pm
post #135 of 219
Thread Starter 
Ok, I spoke to Chief. An extension pipe or plate/adapter is not required (and not included) to mount to the ceiling as long as the ceiling can accept and hold the mount using four screws through the holes. Now the question is can the installer make it work. The joists run across the ceiling but are not too wide and look like they run 16" apart. Hmm.......
post #136 of 219
If your asking if it can be mounted into just the drywall, sure. Mine is that way and it's 18 lbs. I feel completely comfortable setting underneath it. smile.gif These toggle types, http://toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/installation.php have been tested to hold 360 pounds in 1/2" drywall. Most likely, there will be no mounting screws shipped in the mount kit.
post #137 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

If your asking if it can be mounted into just the drywall, sure. Mine is that way and it's 18 lbs. I feel completely comfortable setting underneath it. smile.gif These toggle types, http://toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/installation.php have been tested to hold 360 pounds in 1/2" drywall. Most likely, there will be no mounting screws shipped in the mount kit.

While I'm pretty sure. they will hold an 18# PJ, they will not hold 350# in 1/2" drywall in an overhead installation. They may not even be rated for overhead loads. Wall mounting puts very different loads on the substrate than ceiling mounting. Just make sure the packaging says its approve for overhead use ( I don't have any handy to check, and I've only used them in wall), and don't try to hang your hammock from them in the ceiling. Keep in mind several holes drilled close together weakens the drywall to some extent so it won't matter if the toggles are rated at 1000#, if the drywall can only support 15#.
Personally I would get a piece of 1/2" plywood or MDF and mount it to the joist spanning your PJ location, then toggle through the ply and drywall, or cut the drywall out and replace it with the MDF, patch it in and you will have a much more secure mounting location.
post #138 of 219
For ceiling mounting, don't worry much about it. If you have a good installer, they will take care of it.

If the joists run parallel to the screen, then move the projector forward/backward until it is in line with a joist then use TWO screws through the drywall into the joist to lock that mount against the ceiling. You don't need four screws with a lightweight projector and a long screw going into a ceiling joist. This is, by far, the most common way I have seen ceiling mounting done in a retro-fit installation when the joist is available.
post #139 of 219
Thread Starter 
AV: Wish you were here in Toronto smile.gif Anyone know of an installer up here to call?

So from the laundry room I see 2x8 joists running across which I also imagine are running across the ceiling in the room where the proejctor is going to be installed. They are spread out by about 16". I can't imagine but what do I know how the mount attaches even it only with 2 screws. It is difficult to tell how far apart those holes are in the mount however so maybe it does work.
post #140 of 219
Wasn't there an installers section on avs at one point? Thought I remembered one , I'll poke around a little later and see unless someone beats me to it . Squigly , when you say " across the room" do you mean side to side when you face the screen ? Just want to make sure I'm following you . If thats the case you should be able to mount into one of the joist ( yes they should be 16" apart) . Say the calculator told you to mount at 11" from the screen , and that puts you right between joist. you will only have to move the pj 8" further or closer to the screen to line up with a joist. A little adjustment of the zoom and you should be fine.
post #141 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by acras13 View Post

While I'm pretty sure. they will hold an 18# PJ, they will not hold 350# in 1/2" drywall in an overhead installation. They may not even be rated for overhead loads. Wall mounting puts very different loads on the substrate than ceiling mounting. Just make sure the packaging says its approve for overhead use ( I don't have any handy to check, and I've only used them in wall), and don't try to hang your hammock from them in the ceiling. Keep in mind several holes drilled close together weakens the drywall to some extent so it won't matter if the toggles are rated at 1000#, if the drywall can only support 15#.
Personally I would get a piece of 1/2" plywood or MDF and mount it to the joist spanning your PJ location, then toggle through the ply and drywall, or cut the drywall out and replace it with the MDF, patch it in and you will have a much more secure mounting location.

I wasn't suggesting that he hang a hammock from the ceiling, nor try to hang a Chevy truck from the ceiling joists, or ...... I was just pointing out that an option to mount to the drywall was feasible, with the correct equipment. I've never tried these toggle bolts, and I know everything on the internet is true, (I think Al Gore said it) smile.gif From their website.

"Most national and local building codes require that grab bars be able to sustain 250 pounds of dead load force. The BB 1/4"-20 SNAPTOGGLE Toggle Bolt substantially exceeded that requirement, holding 360 pounds in 1/2" drywall in tests conducted by the Cornell University / Joan and Sanford I. Weill Medical College / Gerontological Environmental Modifications unit and the Eastern Paralyzed Veteran's Association in the EPVA's lab in Fort Totten, New York, in April 2002."

However, your suggestion to use the MDF, between the joists, was constructive and a good option. Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.....
post #142 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

I wasn't suggesting that he hang a hammock from the ceiling, nor try to hang a Chevy truck from the ceiling joists, or ...... I was just pointing out that an option to mount to the drywall was feasible, with the correct equipment. I've never tried these toggle bolts, and I know everything on the internet is true, (I think Al Gore said it) smile.gif From their website.

"Most national and local building codes require that grab bars be able to sustain 250 pounds of dead load force. The BB 1/4"-20 SNAPTOGGLE Toggle Bolt substantially exceeded that requirement, holding 360 pounds in 1/2" drywall in tests conducted by the Cornell University / Joan and Sanford I. Weill Medical College / Gerontological Environmental Modifications unit and the Eastern Paralyzed Veteran's Association in the EPVA's lab in Fort Totten, New York, in April 2002."

However, your suggestion to use the MDF, between the joists, was constructive and a good option. Now back to your regularly scheduled thread.....

I know that you weren't suggesting the hammock , it was a humorous caution to not think that load rating applied to all installations. My main point is that the testing they refer to is done in 1/2" drywall on a wall in shear load , not overhead . The forces applied are completely different between the two applications , shear load in the wall , tension load in the ceiling , usually tension load is significantly less , and having several closely installed will reduce the strength of the drywall further. I didn't find tension load for the fastener you linked , and their application finder only lists wall installations. I will say that I have used them and they seem fine in shear , but unless they specifically say they can be used in tension , ( show overhead load cap.) I would avoid that particular fastener .
BTW , Al didn't say everything on the internet is true , it was that girl on the Allstate commercial. Al INVENTED the internet biggrin.gif
post #143 of 219
Thread Starter 
Acaras: Yes, the joists run across the room (side to side) when facing the screen.

So even with the joist being 2" wide the mount will screw in without the need for a plate? That would be great.
post #144 of 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by squigly1 View Post

Acaras: Yes, the joists run across the room (side to side) when facing the screen.

So even with the joist being 2" wide the mount will screw in without the need for a plate? That would be great.

Yep, line up two of the mounting holes with the joist and it'll be fine. Use wood screws that are at least 1" longer than the thickness of your drywall, longer is fine too. You could use drywall anchors for the other two mounting holes that don't align with the joist if you really want to, but joist mount will be stronger than any drywall mount.
post #145 of 219
Thread Starter 
Ok, how about we talk about something else other than mounts, throw range, and screen location. Room colour and lights are on my mind. I was going to paint the whole room Espresso Bean colour. I'm thinking about Black Ceiling and screen wall (Flat Black) and gunmetal grey for the the other walls (Flat or Eggshell?). Thoughts. For lighting I'll get black baffle, trim, etc. BR30 lamps. What kind, wattage, and colour would be best? They need to be dimmable. Do they make dimmers that can be controlled by like a Harmony One remote and also be zoneable? I found a Lutorn remote control dimmer at HD but since it runs on only one frequency and can't be changed I can only use one for a zone and then a regular dimmer for another zone. Not the best solution so need someting else.

Thanks
post #146 of 219
http://www.avsforum.com/f/162/home-automation , tons of information , look at zwave , and crestron , most of the home automation systems can be scaled down to just handle lighting in your room .
http://www.avsforum.com/t/557480/the-definitive-grafik-eye-master-thread , if you want the high end.
No suggestions on paint , I don't think anything I can think of will convert to metric ( color/colour) biggrin.gif . Choices boil down to what you like or can tolorate , but flat (flaut?) generally is preferred from some of my reading. Is this going to be a dedicated theater room , or will it be used for other things as well ? If not dedicated , I'd think black/ gunmetal might be a little too dark.
post #147 of 219
Thread Starter 
I'm free to do what I want with the room. The room will be used for movies, TV/sports, gaming, etc. It's also where I have a computer (which I use for work and fun) on a table close to the opposite wall from the tv/screen. Smoking and drinking also goes on in the room and I often fall asleep on the sofa watching TV. As i siad I was going to just paint the whole room one colour (Espresso Bean) but now wondering if the black/grey combo would look nicer.

I have a question about the screen wall. With a framed screen against the wall how much space is between the wall and screen? I ask because the wall currently has some outlets on it which are currently high enough on the wall to be where the screen will go (the electrician will put an outlet close to the floor) and I was wondering if I would have to remove the wall plates and plaster or just leave the wall plates? If I can leave the plates I'll just get black ones.

I may just put in regular dimmers and get off my ass to dim when necessary. Not a big deal and since I don't get enough excercise as it is it can't hurt.
post #148 of 219
If the wiring is still in the the boxes you are not going to use, passing power to the new locations then you can't plaster over them. You'll have to put blank covers on the boxes or leave the receptacles there. The covers shouldn't interfere with mounting your screen, unless you are painting a screen on the wall of course.
Are you planning on having all the lights dim at the same time, or having multiple zones? How is the switching handled now, everything in one box, or are the switches in different locations in the room? If atoll the switches are in one spot and you want then all to work together, you could use one dimmer, like the lutron maestro http://www.lowes.com/pd_205636-539-MIR-600THW-WH_0__ .
Edited by acras13 - 6/23/13 at 8:12am
post #149 of 219
Thread Starter 
Installing a fixed frame screen and figured there'd be enough clearance from screen to wall due to the frame but just wanted to be sure. I'll put blank black covers on the boxes, paint the wall black and be done with that. The electrician will do what he does and get me a power outlet near the floor.

As for lighting, there currently are two fluorescent fixtures with 4 bulbs each. One close to the TV (bulbs turned so as to not lighing up) and one at the end end (only running 2 bulbs). They both turn on/off via one switch on the wall outside the room. Putting in 8 recessed lights, 4 down each side of room. Plan A is to have two dimmers (one dimmer for the 6 closest to the screen and seperate dimmer for the 2 lights closest to the other wall). Plan B calls for three dimmers (one for the 4 closest to the screen, one dimmer for the middle 2 lights, and one dimmer for the 2 closest to the other wall). Electrician doesn't know there is a plan B. All dimmers will be put on the same wall as the current switches but inside the room as opposed to outside. I thought about the one dimmer solution as linked above but that will control all lights attached to it and not give me what I really want (seperate zones operable via remote). I could use it for one zone but would still have to get up to dim the others.
post #150 of 219
Then look through the threads for home automation that I linked , and figure out which solution will work best for you . Look through the remote control section in avs as well , theres some info on which remotes can control what automation solutions . I haven't worked with any of them other than the maestro for a single switch single fixture solution , and then WAY above what you would want or need . Grafik eye systems are cool , but expensive , and the commercial systems I've worked on have cost thousands up to more than your house costs ($ 800,000 + lighting project , wish I wasn't just an hourly employee on that one) . I think some of the zwave solutions look promising and would fit your needs , but your electrician may be more familiar with another system , just let him know what your goals are , if he's not familiar with any solutions , go to an electrical supply house in your area and ask them for advise , and referral for an installer.
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