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The "Official" Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1030, RX-A2030, RX-A3030 and CX-A5000/MX-A5000 Thread - Page 39

post #1141 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustolem View Post

Not sure of your setup if you have an amp or not but if you do have an amp to handle all your speakers it is worth the extra $500 to move up to the CX-5000 Pre/Pro.
Just my 2cents.

I have the amp in my Onkyo TX-SR800, but i doubt that qualifies.
post #1142 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustolem View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm2128 View Post

Sent you a PM with a contact at an authorized dealer who sold me my RX-A3030.

Yeah a dealer may be able to get a lower price but you will have to pay sales tax, if you order from Crutchfield there is free shipping an no sales tax.
Just for info.

I have been quoted between $300->$500+ off msrp on the 1030 and up receivers from an authorized dealer.

And you do not have to pay sales tax up front if they do not charge sales tax for your state, but you may have to pay additional for shipping.

If you want the best deal it is best to call (I know its a pain in the a$$).
post #1143 of 2317
Hi, really basic question about the RX-A2030.

Would I be able to do the following:

Zone 1: Home theater, 7.1
Zone 2: Music, 2.1

I'm looking at the manual and all of the multi-zone options seem to be 7.2+2.0 for this kind of configuration.
post #1144 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by glaugh View Post

Hi, really basic question about the RX-A2030.

Would I be able to do the following:

Zone 1: Home theater, 7.1
Zone 2: Music, 2.1

I'm looking at the manual and all of the multi-zone options seem to be 7.2+2.0 for this kind of configuration.

Yes you can do 2.1 in a separate zone but you would need something to provide the passive/active crossover after getting the full 2.0 analog signal (Page 91). This can be the subwoofer (if it has high level outputs) or a separate device (i.e. stereo preamplifier). If you feed it HDMI in the second zone the AVR there can have full 7.1 surround (Page 93).

Cheers.
Edited by TKO1 - 1/10/14 at 10:25am
post #1145 of 2317
Hello all,

I am currently auditioning a CX-A5000 in place of my Onkyo 5009 that I was using as a pre and I have a few questions.

This is my first Yamaha in 20 years as I have been pretty much married to Denon. My Onkyo was the first step away from Denon in 20 years and I was/am happy with the performance, but I wanted to go full Pre/Pro for my 5.2 setup and I thought I would give the A5000 a spin with its stellar reviews.

Is it possible to set the subs crossover independently from the speaker crossover or bypass the sub crossover entirely? I am not seeing this option via the manual speaker set up.

Also, it is possible to negate the "dialog enhancement" when in 2 channel without having to go back into the settings and turn it off?

Are these options that I will find using the IPADDY/Setup menu?


Thanks in advance!
post #1146 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by liltalkm View Post

Hello all,

I am currently auditioning a CX-A5000 in place of my Onkyo 5009 that I was using as a pre and I have a few questions.

This is my first Yamaha in 20 years as I have been pretty much married to Denon. My Onkyo was the first step away from Denon in 20 years and I was/am happy with the performance, but I wanted to go full Pre/Pro for my 5.2 setup and I thought I would give the A5000 a spin with its stellar reviews.

Is it possible to set the subs crossover independently from the speaker crossover or bypass the sub crossover entirely? I am not seeing this option via the manual speaker set up.

Also, it is possible to negate the "dialog enhancement" when in 2 channel without having to go back into the settings and turn it off?

Are these options that I will find using the IPADDY/Setup menu?


Thanks in advance!

Yes you can set the subs crossover independant from the AVR but I wouldn't recommend it. I would recommend setting the crossover on the sub to the maximum frequency or to bypass (depends on your model of sub) and then let the bass manager in the CX-A5000 control the crossovers for each set of speakers independantly. If you want to bypass the subwoofer just use Pure Direct for a stereo 2.0 signal (easiest way) --- or set your front left/right speakers to large. Or you could store the speaker settings in a pattern in a scene and then switch between them. (see Page 97).

Yes, that can be turned off or on whenever you want and the setting will be remembered. However, according to the manual (Page 92) that setting should be disabled for 2.0 automatically.

Not sure on the iPad application.

Cheers.
Edited by TKO1 - 1/10/14 at 12:38pm
post #1147 of 2317

I was told by Yamaha that the firmware update to bring in Spotify Direct was to be issued sometime this month, Jan 2014, and that there would be a press release. Having used the Rhapsody feature on my RX-2030 and being generally satisfied, i tried Spotify because of their new exclusive deal to get the Led Zep catalog. The quality via Airplay is noticably better through my B&W CM10's but a bit harsh in places so I'm assuming when it runs through the DAC's that will improve to be a better overall experience than what I get with Rhapsody. I'm not an audiophile or tech savy but that's my take. The user interface is going to take some getting used to and nothing is as good as my recently discarded ZuneHD but that's life.

 

I was also annoyed that Rhapsody randomly asks to re-login at all the inopportune times: long flight or at the gym with no reading glasses and if you don't log-in the local files are inaccessable. Way to lose customers, makes you wonder if these people use their own product.

post #1148 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbmax542 View Post

I can't seem to find any authorized dealers selling the 3030 for less than $1999.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm2128 View Post

There are a few other differences, including more advanced room correction with speaker angle measurement on the 3030 vs 2020. The 2020 is available for $999 shipped from an authorized retailer, but their return policy isn't great. Deals are also available on the 3030 but it's still going to be quite a bit more....

IF you local Magnolia Home Theater( inside Best Buy) has any Yamaha XX20 series left ....IF being the key word

They are blowing them out at about 65-75% off retail

I snagged one a couple of weeks ago in the Dallas area.....they did a massive markdown on the remaining Yamaha XX20 series and Pioneer SC 63,65 and 67 models
I snagged one of the Pioneer Sc67's as well at 75% off retail

Warren
post #1149 of 2317
I've had the CX-A5000 for a few weeks now, I have eventually set up the way that I want it for Music, I'm running analogue outs from my 105 "now that it is stable streaming FLAC from the Ipad app" I have the OPPO set up with balanced cables to my power amp and RCA analogue out to the Yam, I have the DAC filter set to slow roll off and prefer Natural for YPAO, I have been flicking from AV1 "HDMI" on PureDirect to AV1 RCA and AV4 balanced, I have settled on AV1 RCA out from the dedicated analogue outs on the 105 using Natural incorporating my sub "not pure direct" the sound is out of this world.


I was using the server setting on the Yam last week for streaming from my nas and it was great, now that I have tried different cables from my 105 I'm blown away with the music. HDMI is lifeless compared to the dedicated analogue out going into the CX-A5000 for the OPPO, each input has been volume matched wit the same EQ settings. I Just need to mess about now and see what's the best setting for movies!


I'm starting to really love this pre amp more and more with each passing day.
post #1150 of 2317
11.1/2 with front presence speakers please provide your thought to the addition to those speakers with regards to increasing your HT experience? I have a challenging room configuration and would like to hear your thought to having them in your system. Thanks, David
post #1151 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by marky301067 View Post

I've had the CX-A5000 for a few weeks now, I have eventually set up the way that I want it for Music, I'm running analogue outs from my 105 "now that it is stable streaming FLAC from the Ipad app" I have the OPPO set up with balanced cables to my power amp and RCA analogue out to the Yam, I have the DAC filter set to slow roll off and prefer Natural for YPAO, I have been flicking from AV1 "HDMI" on PureDirect to AV1 RCA and AV4 balanced, I have settled on AV1 RCA out from the dedicated analogue outs on the 105 using Natural incorporating my sub "not pure direct" the sound is out of this world.


I was using the server setting on the Yam last week for streaming from my nas and it was great, now that I have tried different cables from my 105 I'm blown away with the music. HDMI is lifeless compared to the dedicated analogue out going into the CX-A5000 for the OPPO, each input has been volume matched wit the same EQ settings. I Just need to mess about now and see what's the best setting for movies!


I'm starting to really love this pre amp more and more with each passing day.

Question for you as I am confused by your setup as you described it.

You state you have your Oppo BDP-105 XLR setup using the XLR outputs direct to a power amp. Correct? Therefore the CX-A5000 plays no role whatsoever and wouldn't even have an input setting. The Oppo is acting as a pre-amp here and would use its volume control. The Oppo must be setup with both speakers large as well for 2-channel stereo.

What exactly is on the AV4 input?

By the sounds of the way you have configured your analog signals in from the Oppo BDP-105 you are still using the DSP and the DACs in the Yamaha. Which means you are doing multiple A/D and D/A conversions. This is not to suggest it isn't your preference but that you should be getting exactly the same quality from the HDMI in. What setting is the CX-A5000 on for signal type on AV1 --- is is Direct? You have to go into the settings for the 2ch Stereo Direct option and turn off the DSP. It is on by default. (page 102 in owner's manual). The fact you are using a subwoofer with an analog input signal means you are using DSP just no EQ unless it is on the multi-channel analog input (see below)

If you are feeding in multi-channel audio from the Oppo you need to account for the missing 10dB (speakers set to large) or 15dB (speakers set to small) from the subwoofer channel as the Yamaha doesn't provide it on the multi-channel analog inputs. The Oppo must also do all bass management functions (e.g. distance, crossover, size etc.) as these are disabled on the multi-channel analog inputs.

If you can provide some further clarity around your signal flow/settings I can assist further if need be.

Hope this helps. Cheers.
post #1152 of 2317

While on the subject of crossovers

 

is there a way to defeat all the on board crossovers, as it seems a bit restrictive and a bit out of date to be honest

 

i use Behringer CX3400 active crossovers for all main speakers and a DCX 2496 for the subs so have no need for onboard ones

on the old Yamaha A1 and AX1 which i have - if you set to large and sub, as far as i can remember it cuts at 90, (which is also a bit rubbish but sounds ok)

does the CXA-5000 have something like this or can it be set to 65 and above for the mains and 65 and below for the Subs

 

thanks for any advice

post #1153 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by WR1325 View Post

While on the subject of crossovers

is there a way to defeat all the on board crossovers, as it seems a bit restrictive and a bit out of date to be honest

i use Behringer CX3400 active crossovers for all main speakers and a DCX 2496 for the subs so have no need for onboard ones
on the old Yamaha A1 and AX1 which i have - if you set to large and sub, as far as i can remember it cuts at 90, (which is also a bit rubbish but sounds ok)
does the CXA-5000 have something like this or can it be set to 65 and above for the mains and 65 and below for the Subs

thanks for any advice

It depends. You can defeat all the internal bass management by using the analog multi-channel inputs which means it would need to be done in the source device. Whatever you pass it in terms of frequencies it will reproduce so if you insert an additional crossover network between your source and the CX-A5000 where you have decided that 65Hz is your crossover then that is what it will see at the input. In some cases this might be preferable as the Yamaha's bass management currently has a 12dB/octave HPF unless that is what your crossover network also has. I would like to see the Yamaha have a configurable crossover slope for the HPF (i.e. 4th order, 24dB/octave) and have sent in a request for a firmware update. But once again, you need to boost the subwoofer channel by 10dB or 15dB, as Yamaha doesn't do this.

The CX-A5000 can individually set crossovers for each pair of speakers (e.g. 40Hz for the fronts, 80Hz for the center, 60Hz for the surrounds etc.) but only if you are using a digital multi-channel input.

Cheers.
post #1154 of 2317

Hi,

thanks for the reply

 

would a normal digital input maybe the dvd input count as multi channel or would it need to be HDMI

i did try to read the manual on all this but they don't seem to write them as well as they used to, or i'm getting to old to understand it all

 

fully configurable crossovers are a huge step forward - all studios / night clubs and cinemas use such, although they have been around for many many yrs,

i've had the CX3400s for about ten yrs and DCX 2496 for about 7yrs and could never go back to normal

the DCX 2496 has all the features you mention, but sounds very slightly clinical for mains, although good enough for subs and probably even better if i could find time to tweak it more

the CX 3400s are analogue and sound very nice once you find the right settings and tweak alittle and especially tri amped

 

it would mean yet more ouptuts for the CXA-5000 so not likely something they would do for the mains and rears etc, but for subs there's no reason they couldn't upgrade the software or hardware in the next model

 

DBX digital crossovers are also supposed to be very good and not to expensive

Yamaha do make them, but are Yamaha pro audio and for Cinemas and cost around 5K+

 

i spoke to Yamaha UK a few months ago about the CXA-5000 and was told they are thinking of the next model and it will likely have the XLRs for the subs, it was a cost and space issue, but the next will likely have them,

and hopefully a few more advanced features if we press them a bit

 

just need to sell a few more bits on Ebay :) and then can buy one

 

Thanks


Edited by WR1325 - 1/13/14 at 6:53am
post #1155 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by WR1325 View Post

Hi,
thanks for the reply

would a normal digital input maybe the dvd input count as multi channel or would it need to be HDMI
i did try to read the manual on all this but they don't seem to write them as well as they used to, or i'm getting to old to understand it all


Yes, normal DVD video/audio signals are 5.1 multichannel lossy format and can be sent via digital coaxial/optical without any issues. You would need to add a video output as well. For any of the higher rate (or encrypted) audio signals in lossless format (Blu-Ray) you need HDMI.

Cheers.
post #1156 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

It depends. You can defeat all the internal bass management by using the analog multi-channel inputs which means it would need to be done in the source device. Whatever you pass it in terms of frequencies it will reproduce so if you insert an additional crossover network between your source and the CX-A5000 where you have decided that 65Hz is your crossover then that is what it will see at the input. In some cases this might be preferable as the Yamaha's bass management currently has a 12dB/octave HPF unless that is what your crossover network also has. I would like to see the Yamaha have a configurable crossover slope for the HPF (i.e. 4th order, 24dB/octave) and have sent in a request for a firmware update. But once again, you need to boost the subwoofer channel by 10dB or 15dB, as Yamaha doesn't do this.

The CX-A5000 can individually set crossovers for each pair of speakers (e.g. 40Hz for the fronts, 80Hz for the center, 60Hz for the surrounds etc.) but only if you are using a digital multi-channel input.

Cheers.

You know, this is my biggest gripe with the A5000 and it may end up being a deal breaker for me.

I wish I could set my speaker crossover and sub crossover independently from each other. I do find the bass management options lacking, there is really no reason why I shouldn't be able to set my mains crossover to 60Hz an then my sub at 80Hz or 100Hz if I wanted to. If anyone has some insight on this, I would appreciate it.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what the crossover for the sub is tuned to when you select "double bass"? I wish I could control that as well. I just wish there was an option to set the sub's crossover, no matter what my other speakers are set to like other manufacturers offer.

It's a real shame that this was not included. If I am missing something please let me know.

Otherwise, I do have to say that this system does provide a very detailed Yamaha type sound.

There are times, especially with home theater that I am happy as can be with the unit, then I go to two channel and I am constantly trying to tweak it.

Right now I am not sure if I am going to keep it.
post #1157 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post


Yes, normal DVD video/audio signals are 5.1 multichannel lossy format and can be sent via digital coaxial/optical without any issues. You would need to add a video output as well. For any of the higher rate (or encrypted) audio signals in lossless format (Blu-Ray) you need HDMI.

Cheers.

Thanks

 

i mainly listen to music via digital output from the PC, so not sure this would count? even if into the DVD digital input

but could always try HDMI out instead

 

99% of everyone seems to like the CXA-5000, so will just have to buy it and find a way around any problems,

(can always return it if not, although not that likely)

 

nearly bought one just before Christmas and had a nice deal, but decided i would rather have the money in the bank and sell my old rubbish first

but it is very tempting

post #1158 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by liltalkm View Post


You know, this is my biggest gripe with the A5000 and it may end up being a deal breaker for me.

I wish I could set my speaker crossover and sub crossover independently from each other. I do find the bass management options lacking, there is really no reason why I shouldn't be able to set my mains crossover to 60Hz an then my sub at 80Hz or 100Hz if I wanted to. If anyone has some insight on this, I would appreciate it.

Out of curiosity, does anyone know what the crossover for the sub is tuned to when you select "double bass"? I wish I could control that as well. I just wish there was an option to set the sub's crossover, no matter what my other speakers are set to like other manufacturers offer.

It's a real shame that this was not included. If I am missing something please let me know.

Otherwise, I do have to say that this system does provide a very detailed Yamaha type sound.

There are times, especially with home theater that I am happy as can be with the unit, then I go to two channel and I am constantly trying to tweak it.

Right now I am not sure if I am going to keep it.

 

External crossovers maybe the only way, and can tweak them as much as you like

 

there are a few choices

DBX as mentioned are well rated - the 2nd model in the range is supposed to be very good

the Behringer DCX 2496 is quite good, and good enough for subs, plenty of tweaks, possibly too much

and the Behringer CX3400s and although cheap-ish, don't sound cheap especially when used with good amps

but better for mains and not subs

 

after the initial tweaking for a few weeks, you won't need to keep tweaking, unless you really want to :)

 

Yamaha Pro Audio would seem the logical choice but at 5k possibly a bit much, but its very very nice kit

post #1159 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by liltalkm View Post


I wish I could set my speaker crossover and sub crossover independently from each other. I do find the bass management options lacking, there is really no reason why I shouldn't be able to set my mains crossover to 60Hz an then my sub at 80Hz or 100Hz if I wanted to. If anyone has some insight on this, I would appreciate it.

Remember the crossover slopes are not a brick-wall filter they are a gentle slope. Both speakers and subwoofer continuing producing sounds on both sides of the crossover just not as loudly. So if you set the mains crossover at 80Hz your subwoofer will start dropping the amplitude of the signal to where it is -24dB at 160Hz (one octave). The mains will keep playing down to 40Hz but at a -12dB (one octave) level.

Technically I can not think of any reason you would want to do this (i.e. creating a null in your frequency response).

Cheers.
post #1160 of 2317

These could possibly do the job, and not as much as first thought

the full processors are $7500, but probably overkill anyway

 

http://www.yamahaproaudio.com/global/en/products/processors/sp2060/

£1300 in the UK, maybe $1300 in the US?

 

the Behringer DCX 2496 is about £250 in the UK

likely also $250 in the US and can set the sub up as you like,

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/DCX2496.aspx

 

DBX are around £/$500

http://www.dbxpro.com/en/products/driverack-260


Edited by WR1325 - 1/13/14 at 8:16am
post #1161 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by liltalkm View Post



Out of curiosity, does anyone know what the crossover for the sub is tuned to when you select "double bass"? I wish I could control that as well. I just wish there was an option to set the sub's crossover, no matter what my other speakers are set to like other manufacturers offer.

Are you not confusing the subwoofer crossover with the LFE channel cutoff? (i.e. the .1 in a 5.1 or 7.1 signal) None of my other audio receivers (Anthem, Onkyo, Denon, Pioneer) have let me have different settings. Most people choose a crossover of 80Hz for the main speakers and then an LFE cutoff of 120Hz. These are not the same thing.

Cheers.
post #1162 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Most people choose a crossover of 80Hz for the main speakers and then an LFE cutoff of 120Hz. These are not the same thing.

Cheers.

Correct and I get your point, but where in the Yamaha can you do this exact thing?
post #1163 of 2317

80Hz is the old THX settings if remember correctly, but usually seems way to high and just a no. that fits most systems fairly well

lower and around 60/65 is usually better as the bass in the mains integrates better with the subs and get more low punch from both mains and subs (or seems that way) but obviously the mains must have decent drivers to play so low and then also need abit more power

but is all a matter of taste and preference

post #1164 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Remember the crossover slopes are not a brick-wall filter they are a gentle slope. Both speakers and subwoofer continuing producing sounds on both sides of the crossover just not as loudly. So if you set the mains crossover at 80Hz your subwoofer will start dropping the amplitude of the signal to where it is -24dB at 160Hz (one octave). The mains will keep playing down to 40Hz but at a -12dB (one octave) level.

Technically I can not think of any reason you would want to do this (i.e. creating a null in your frequency response).

Cheers.

Actually, as long as your subwoofer has a tunable crossover setting on the back you could do it there... Normally most people set this to bypass or roll it up to 150Hz etc.

This would do what you want if you are adamant about doing it.

Cheers.
post #1165 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by liltalkm View Post

Correct and I get your point, but where in the Yamaha can you do this exact thing?

You can't with the CX-A5000. It is set to allow any 0.1 content up to 120Hz. There isn't usually a lot of frequency content above 80Hz here anyways FWIW.

Cheers.
post #1166 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

You can't with the CX-A5000. It is set to allow any 0.1 content up to 120Hz. There isn't usually a lot of frequency content above 80Hz here anyways FWIW.

Cheers.

Thanks TKO1, that's exactly what I wanted to know.

I was wondering what the 0.1 crossover was set to on the unit.

So, if I set my mains to small and cross them over at 60Hz, will the LFE signal still get 120Hz and below or will it only get 60Hz and below?

I guess I am just used to being able to tweak my sub a little more with other processors.
post #1167 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by liltalkm View Post

Thanks TKO1, that's exactly what I wanted to know.

I was wondering what the 0.1 crossover was set to on the unit.

So, if I set my mains to small and cross them over at 60Hz, will the LFE signal still get 120Hz and below or will it only get 60Hz and below?

I guess I am just used to being able to tweak my sub a little more with other processors.

Yes. The LFE channel is completely separate. With that configuration the subwoofer will play the 0.1 channel completely and all of the redirected frequencies < 60Hz from any speakers configured as small.

Cheers.
post #1168 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

What setting is the CX-A5000 on for signal type on AV1 --- is is Direct?

It's on Auto "OFF" for HDMI "av1"

Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Question for you as I am confused by your setup as you described it.

You state you have your Oppo BDP-105 XLR setup using the XLR outputs direct to a power amp. Correct? Therefore the CX-A5000 plays no role whatsoever and wouldn't even have an input setting. The Oppo is acting as a pre-amp here and would use its volume control. The Oppo must be setup with both speakers large as well for 2-channel stereo.

What exactly is on the AV4 input?

By the sounds of the way you have configured your analog signals in from the Oppo BDP-105 you are still using the DSP and the DACs in the Yamaha. Which means you are doing multiple A/D and D/A conversions. This is not to suggest it isn't your preference but that you should be getting exactly the same quality from the HDMI in. What setting is the CX-A5000 on for signal type on AV1 --- is is Direct? You have to go into the settings for the 2ch Stereo Direct option and turn off the DSP. It is on by default. (page 102 in owner's manual). The fact you are using a subwoofer with an analog input signal means you are using DSP just no EQ unless it is on the multi-channel analog input (see below) If you can provide some further clarity around your signal flow/settings I can assist further if need be.
Hope this helps. Cheers.


Apolgies TKO1, I have it set up with XLR cables going from the Yamaha feeding my power amps, I have XLR going from the 2 channel analogue out on the OPPO to Audio4, I have RCA'S going from the analogue out on the OPPO also to Audio 1, the Yamaha is configured as mains set to small and crossed over at 80hz, the Yamaha is set to Auto in the 2 channel set up menu " so off", the OPPO is set to stereo down mix and speakers are set as large,
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

If you are feeding in multi-channel audio from the Oppo you need to account for the missing 10dB (speakers set to large) or 15dB (speakers set to small) from the subwoofer channel as the Yamaha doesn't provide it on the multi-channel analog inputs. The Oppo must also do all bass management functions (e.g. distance, crossover, size etc.) as these are disabled on the multi-channel analog inputs.


All bass management functions are disabled on the OPPO, I'm using the 2 channel out and HDMI for Movies. I have tested the 2 channel XLR out from the OPPO and it sounds a bit harsh and distorted! I was aslo testing out my headphones this morning and the sound is far superior to me on the Yamaha compared with the dedicated headphone output on the OPPO, on the OPPO the sound is on the headphone out is lifeless compared to the Yam! headphones are Beyerdynamic DT770 PRO.


Does it sound like it is set up correct?
Edited by marky301067 - 1/13/14 at 9:20am
post #1169 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by TKO1 View Post

Yes. The LFE channel is completely separate. With that configuration the subwoofer will play the 0.1 channel completely and all of the redirected frequencies < 60Hz from any speakers configured as small.

Cheers.

Thanks again TKO1.

I guess that is why I am frustrated. Using the LFE in on my sub defeats of the subs internal crossover settings as it expects the processor to handle everything.

So, lets say a user of the A5000 when listening to 2 channel leaves their Fronts set to large but wants to supplement the lower end with the sub, they would have to turn on "double bass", but that sends everything that goes to the mains @ 120Hz and below to the sub also. That could be overkill in some situations.

The reverse is also true...

Let's say that you wanted to crossover your mains at 60Hz but you wanted your sub to supplement your mains low end. The only option is for the sub to get 60Hz and below, not 80Hz or 100Hz and below if that is what you desired.

I am just surprised that Yamaha did not give the user the option to do such because everyone's speakers, room etc. is different as is everyone's taste for sound.
post #1170 of 2317
Quote:
Originally Posted by marky301067 View Post

Apolgies TKO1, I have it set up with XLR cables going from the Yamaha feeding my power amps, I have XLR going from the 2 channel analogue out on the OPPO to Audio4, I have RCA'S going from the analogue out on the OPPO also to Audio 1, the Yamaha is configured as mains set to small and crossed over at 80hz, the Yamaha is set to Auto in the 2 channel set up menu " so off", the OPPO is set to stereo down mix and speakers are set as large,
All bass management functions are disabled on the OPPO, I'm using the 2 channel out and HDMI for Movies. I have tested the 2 channel XLR out from the OPPO and it sounds a bit harsh and distorted! I was aslo testing out my headphones this morning and the sound is far superior to me on the Yamaha compared with the dedicated headphone output on the OPPO, on the OPPO the sound is on the headphone out is lifeless compared to the Yam! headphones are Beyerdynamic DT770 PRO.


Does it sound like it is set up correct?

Ok, that is kinda what I thought but wanted to make sure wink.gif

In this configuration the two channel input on Audio 4 (the only XLR input on the CX-A5000) is being converted from analog to digital to apply bass management. Then it is being converted back to analog to be output to the power amplifier. I wouldn't recommend this signal path. The Oppo XLR output is arguably the highest quality SNR DAC in the world so the harshness you might be experiencing might be because of the D-A, A-D, D-A process. If you want to eliminate this as a technical worry you can configure the Oppo like this article suggests but just send the XLRs to your power amplifier left and right channels. See how that sounds. If it sounds okay you know the analog outputs are good. Be careful with the volume setting on the Oppo prior to connecting it/playing a signal as it could damage your speakers if it is set to high when it hits the power amplifier!

I also have an Oppo BDP-105 mated with my CX-A5000 and what I do is use the XLRs as a Pure Direct connection only (i.e. 2.0) on Audio 4 input. I then use the HDMI connection for all other settings. The CX-A5000 is almost as good as the Oppo in terms of DAC performance etc. and I haven't noticed any audible difference between the two. I play around with the Pure Direct XLR outputs every now and then but I usually always switch back to the HDMI input from the Oppo to benefit from a better crossover when using a subwoofer. I prefer 2.1 to 2.0 FWIW. Just make sure that the HDMI settings are not doing anything to the signal. Use Straight mode on the HDMI 2.0 input from the Oppo and then check the Audio information on the Yamaha to make sure it is not doing anything else to the signal (page 89 and 122-123 in the owner's manual).

Never tried the headphone output so I can't speak to that, sorry. Headphone amplifiers should have an output impedance close to 0 ohms and a basic rule is that the headphone impedance is at least 8 times greater (e.g. output impedance of headphone amplifier is 2ohms than any headphones above 16 ohms will sound good --- unless they are very difficult to drive and the headphone output doesn't deliver enough voltage to reach a good hearing level).

Cheers.
Edited by TKO1 - 1/13/14 at 9:54am
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