or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 66

post #1951 of 5670
I had Cox for many years. Switching to FiOS was a great decision, we love it! Got it as soon as it was available in my neighborhood. You can keep all your email address at COX for $9.99 per month.

Good Luck on that call to COX.
post #1952 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

I had Cox for many years. Switching to FiOS was a great decision, we love it! Got it as soon as it was available in my neighborhood. You can keep all your email address at COX for $9.99 per month.

Good Luck on that call to COX.

FIOS not available here yet.
post #1953 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtold View Post

I want to change from wireless to wired for my 8500. Not sure how to do this.
I am using cable for source. I am guessing that I can split my coax and run to a modem.
Then I can run an ethernet cable from the modem to my TV.
Can someone advise if this is correct?

Called Cox to find solution. Their recommendation was to add another modem and data stream per my comment above. I wasn't aware of the extra data stream. Too expensive, so I fiddled around with my wireless
and managed to get it to work again. Don't know if it will stay fixed yet. Will report back when things clear up.
post #1954 of 5670
You should have an ethernet port on the back of your existing "modem" as well as the wire-less option, you can take that one or if it is already being used just get a cheap ethernet switch, they usually have 4-6 ports for under 30 bucks on Amazon and run from the modem to the switch and then from one of the switch ports to your TV.

CableBox----> EtherNetSwitch----> TV

If you give me the brand and model number for your modem I take a look and see if this will work. My mom has Cox cable and that is what I did on hers. If you are already getting internet service there is no other "stream" you need.

Look on the back of your existing box, if there is an ethernet port on the back you will be all set, one line to the switch and from the switch one to the PC if you are using one and one to the TV.
Edited by CamaroDrvr - 11/8/13 at 1:55pm
post #1955 of 5670
Updated to 1114 and 3D brightness pops are still there. Sigh.
post #1956 of 5670
Noticed a new setting in 114, actually (sorry if this has been posted to death abut already) - HDMI Black Level. Seem to recall this was either greyed out or non-existent before 1114.
post #1957 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watcher12 View Post

Noticed a new setting in 114, actually (sorry if this has been posted to death abut already) - HDMI Black Level. Seem to recall this was either greyed out or non-existent before 1114.

Always been there...
post #1958 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDrvr View Post

You should have an ethernet port on the back of your existing "modem" as well as the wire-less option, you can take that one or if it is already being used just get a cheap ethernet switch, they usually have 4-6 ports for under 30 bucks on Amazon and run from the modem to the switch and then from one of the switch ports to your TV.

CableBox----> EtherNetSwitch----> TV

If you give me the brand and model number for your modem I take a look and see if this will work. My mom has Cox cable and that is what I did on hers. If you are already getting internet service there is no other "stream" you need.

Look on the back of your existing box, if there is an ethernet port on the back you will be all set, one line to the switch and from the switch one to the PC if you are using one and one to the TV.

My current modem and router are being used for my desktop computers. The distance to the TV from this modem is about 45 feet. The wireless works sometimes and I am trying to solve this issue as it worked consistently at one time. I have a blu-ray player that connects wirelessly without incident and it is next to the TV. Running a cable from my current modem to the TV is not practical. Thanks for your suggestion.
post #1959 of 5670
No problem, all you need is one of these: D-Link 5-Port Gigabit Switch (DGS-1005G), it is 27 bucks on Amazon.

You then come from the wired connector on your modem and hook that to the switch, and the switch gives you 5 ethernet ports, so your PC's and printers or what ever plug in to the switch as well as your new 45 foot cable.

45 feet is no issue for Ethernet with typical CAT5 wire so no need to buy anything special in cable or amps/boosters. If you need more than one thing hooked up on the TV side you can add another switch there. You can get a hub for a little cheaper but I would stick with a switch, it prevents other activity from slowing you down until the total bandwidth is chewed up.

It will look like this:

post #1960 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtold View Post

My current modem and router are being used for my desktop computers. The distance to the TV from this modem is about 45 feet. The wireless works sometimes and I am trying to solve this issue as it worked consistently at one time. I have a blu-ray player that connects wirelessly without incident and it is next to the TV. Running a cable from my current modem to the TV is not practical. Thanks for your suggestion.
You may want to try this application if you haven't already: http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/

It's most useful on an Android phone (there may be an Apple app, I am not sure...not interested in their products). It will help with placement and determination of the least crowded channels. I find it's easier to use 5 GHz since the 2.4 GHz spectrum tends to be much more crowded.
Edited by vinnie97 - 11/9/13 at 9:47am
post #1961 of 5670
Anyone else experiencing moire pattern or aliasing on the F8500 on white outlines? I've just recently started to notice this and not sure if it's been there all along. Images aren't solid in some motion, and white lines or outlines show some flicker and can be distracting. Is this normal?
post #1962 of 5670
DirtOld -- I should have also mentioned that no matter how well you get your wireless working it will never be as stable or fast as hardwired, just too many things that influence performance when you put RF into the mix. I have another switch on the TV side so the receiver, blu-ray, and TV all have wired access. Another thing about wireless is that when it sees a weak signal or more data corruption it slows or actually narrows the bandwidth, thus throughput, to help bring the error rate back under the threshold. Worse thing is that it does not tell you, so you can be running at 1/2 speed and it will say everything is fine and report the higher speed.

So if wired is not too much trouble it is the way I would suggest from my experience.
post #1963 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtold View Post

My current modem and router are being used for my desktop computers. The distance to the TV from this modem is about 45 feet. The wireless works sometimes and I am trying to solve this issue as it worked consistently at one time. I have a blu-ray player that connects wirelessly without incident and it is next to the TV. Running a cable from my current modem to the TV is not practical. Thanks for your suggestion.

If you have cable running thru your house, you can use a Moca adapter like this http://www.actiontec.com/251.html (best price on Amazon BTW).
This allows Ethernet to be transmitted over your existing cable.
I use this exact setup since my cable modem, router and desktop computer are upstairs and the TV is downstairs.
I get identical speed Vs hard wired to the router @ >28mb/sec (wireless would be 40-50% of that speed).
One thing they don't supply is a Moca filter that you need to prevent broadcasting to outside your residence (installs where cable comes in).
You can get one of those on E-bay for about $10.

Todd
post #1964 of 5670
Todd, If you want a gigabit LAN you can go with the Actiontec MI424WR Rev I Verizon Fios Wireless N Broadband Router modem. Jim
post #1965 of 5670
Just FYI for people who were considering buying the Xbox One and using it as a blu ray device -- the console doesn't support 3D at launch (might be added later, but not sure when/how). This is reason enough for Steve Ballmer to be fired.
post #1966 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd95008 View Post

If you have cable running thru your house, you can use a Moca adapter like this http://www.actiontec.com/251.html (best price on Amazon BTW).
This allows Ethernet to be transmitted over your existing cable.
I use this exact setup since my cable modem, router and desktop computer are upstairs and the TV is downstairs.
I get identical speed Vs hard wired to the router @ >28mb/sec (wireless would be 40-50% of that speed).
One thing they don't supply is a Moca filter that you need to prevent broadcasting to outside your residence (installs where cable comes in).
You can get one of those on E-bay for about $10.

Todd

Todd,

From reading the online instructions it looks like I need a second adapter at the TV.
My cable box has an ethernet port but not sure this will get me internet to my TV.
Or are you saying that my coax will have internet and HDTV so I won't need anything else?
I think I need some way to run ethernet to my HDTV and I'm not sure how to do this.
post #1967 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

Todd, If you want a gigabit LAN you can go with the Actiontec MI424WR Rev I Verizon Fios Wireless N Broadband Router modem. Jim

Why would I want that ?
I don't have Fios and I'm more than happy with my setup.
Don't believe any wireless claims for speed, they never even come close.
I have a Netgear N300 that has never done better than half the wired speed.
The Moca adapters work great (just like I'm hard wired to the router) and unless you have >100mb/sec internet, you have no need for gigabit anything !!

And now back to our program, the F8500....
post #1968 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtold View Post

Todd,

From reading the online instructions it looks like I need a second adapter at the TV.
My cable box has an ethernet port but not sure this will get me internet to my TV.
Or are you saying that my coax will have internet and HDTV so I won't need anything else?
I think I need some way to run ethernet to my HDTV and I'm not sure how to do this.

The adapters come either as a set or you can just buy one (for another connection elsewhere).
They have nothing to do with the TV signal.
They just use a frequency band that is above what cable companies broadcast on.
You would connect the moca adapter between your cable modem and coax cable feed and connect an Ethernet cable to your router/modem.
The other adapter connects at your tv where the coax cable comes in there and that Ethernet cable will plug into your F8500.
They are bi-directional (broadcast and receive both ways).
The filter blocks your data from going out to the rest of you cable system (your neighbors etc.) so it is installed where the coax enters the house.

So, if you have cable feeding the cable modem in one part of your house and cable feeding your TV in another part you can use the same cable to transmit Ethernet over that coax cable.
This is also used by some cable/sat boxes to send video to extra rooms in house.
Those devices have a Moca adapter built in.

Look here for more info.
http://www.mocalliance.org/
post #1969 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

Todd, If you want a gigabit LAN you can go with the Actiontec MI424WR Rev I Verizon Fios Wireless N Broadband Router modem. Jim

That is a good answer if you don't already have the CAT5 pulled or it is hard to pull. That box will run you on average of 66 bucks per box after the first pair which can be had for about $115 on Amazon.

However, he will still need an Ethernet switch to use this box because he only has one port on his cable modem and his computer is wired, but as I said if there is no cat5 in place this would be one solution, he could also go EtherNet over the power wires. Like wireless these alternatives all have drawbacks over dedicated CAT5 also.
post #1970 of 5670
I'm a new 64" F8500 owner, but I'm swapping the first set I had due to poor uniformity/vertical banding for another one on Monday. While I immediately noticed it during the break in slides, I didn't really see it much on network TV. I recently watched a hockey game, and the vertical bands were extremely present, especially during any camera panning. I've since seen it on any panning scenes regardless of content. I've attached a picture of the vertical bands that I see when the TV is fed a blank signal. The photo exaggerates the effect of what I see, but you can see the vertical bands that are impacting the picture quality. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

IMG_3703.JPG 1778k .JPG file
post #1971 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcDBecker View Post

I'm a new 64" F8500 owner, but I'm swapping the first set I had due to poor uniformity/vertical banding for another one on Monday. While I immediately noticed it during the break in slides, I didn't really see it much on network TV. I recently watched a hockey game, and the vertical bands were extremely present, especially during any camera panning. I've since seen it on any panning scenes regardless of content. I've attached a picture of the vertical bands that I see when the TV is fed a blank signal. The photo exaggerates the effect of what I see, but you can see the vertical bands that are impacting the picture quality. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

IMG_3703.JPG 1778k .JPG file

That I have not seen. Before I looked at the pic I thought you were talking about pink bands and blotches on a white screen.
post #1972 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watcher12 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcDBecker View Post

I'm a new 64" F8500 owner, but I'm swapping the first set I had due to poor uniformity/vertical banding for another one on Monday. While I immediately noticed it during the break in slides, I didn't really see it much on network TV. I recently watched a hockey game, and the vertical bands were extremely present, especially during any camera panning. I've since seen it on any panning scenes regardless of content. I've attached a picture of the vertical bands that I see when the TV is fed a blank signal. The photo exaggerates the effect of what I see, but you can see the vertical bands that are impacting the picture quality. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

IMG_3703.JPG 1778k .JPG file

That I have not seen. Before I looked at the pic I thought you were talking about pink bands and blotches on a white screen.
I definitely don't see that especially since I've noticed banding from my first LCD projector nearly a decade ago. I DO see slight Dirty Screen Effect ocassionally on light colored pans, but it's not banding and it's usually not obvious.


Max
post #1973 of 5670
Todd,

Thanks, this clears it up for me.
post #1974 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcDBecker View Post

I'm a new 64" F8500 owner, but I'm swapping the first set I had due to poor uniformity/vertical banding for another one on Monday. While I immediately noticed it during the break in slides, I didn't really see it much on network TV. I recently watched a hockey game, and the vertical bands were extremely present, especially during any camera panning. I've since seen it on any panning scenes regardless of content. I've attached a picture of the vertical bands that I see when the TV is fed a blank signal. The photo exaggerates the effect of what I see, but you can see the vertical bands that are impacting the picture quality. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

IMG_3703.JPG 1778k .JPG file

Yikes, I have never seen that on mine, but what do you mean by a blank signal, over RF like Cable In or over HDMI ? Would be interesting to see what, say the Camera does on Full Screen with the lense blocked, looked like or feeding it an all black screen.

Speaking of Hockey, did you happen to notice the ice being whiter? To me it seems to be the first plasma set I have owned where the ice really looks like Hockey ice looks.
post #1975 of 5670
When I say Blank feed, I meant I turned to a channel I don't receive where the feed comes in as black (i.e. HDMI from my Tivo). These same bars/bands that are visible during the slides.

Overall the whites are much whiter (coming from my Pioneer 5080), but bars/bands are distracting enough to offset that benefit.
post #1976 of 5670
I've attached one more pic when I was running the slides. Its much more subtle here, but still evident.

IMG_3725.JPG 1287k .JPG file
post #1977 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcDBecker View Post

When I say Blank feed, I meant I turned to a channel I don't receive where the feed comes in as black (i.e. HDMI from my Tivo). These same bars/bands that are visible during the slides.

Overall the whites are much whiter (coming from my Pioneer 5080), but bars/bands are distracting enough to offset that benefit.

Ahhh, if it is there during the slides as well then it looks like it has a problem to me. I thought it might have been noise on a TV channel but if it happens on the slides there is nothing but the TV in the path.

I would try to exchange it if you just got it. I see the brighter whites without the banding and like you agree that is not acceptable. Good luck.
post #1978 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmavra View Post

OK guys, quick question. Had my 64F8500 for a week now, coming from an PN58B850. Everything about this TV is better, especially black levels. Still though, if I turn off lights and put on a black screen you can still see the screen lit up. Much better than my older TV, but still visible. Now is this the way it should be? If I turn on the lights very slightly though, the screen seems completely black.

I dont think ANY plasma tv will display a pitch black screen with zero content...not even kuro or the ZT60.

However put up some content and the bezel should blend in with the screen.....its just some trickery of the eye thats why
Edited by music_to_my_ear - 11/10/13 at 6:25pm
post #1979 of 5670
Also ive been through this thread for the past hour and havent found any new information about the firmware updates and if they have fully resolved the 3D pop up issues...

Im actually on the fence between this set, the f8000 and maybe the VT60
post #1980 of 5670
Quote:
Originally Posted by music_to_my_ear View Post

I dont think ANY plasma tv will display a pitch black screen with zero content...not even kuro or the ZT60.

However put up some content and the bezel should blend in with the screen.....its just some trickery of the eye thats why

bang on. exactly what i experience too.

unfortunately, it looks like we'll be stuck with bias lighting, or dealing with the 'glow' for some time. the last tv i had that looks 'off' when displaying a completely black image was a CRT RPTV. i will say though, the f8500 does 'turn off' the display when an all black signal is recognized. it's not 100% accurate, and you can tell it's doing it as it's not a gradual fade, but a sudden 'jump'. still, i suppose it's more helpful than harmful, and for a split second or two it does appear actually black. of course, as long as there is anything to be displayed(credits for example) you won't get this kicking in.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk)