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Dual Othorn build - Page 2

post #31 of 143
The 412 is much louder than the Othorn as Ricci said.

In its pass band a single cabinet will likely be equal to 12-16 sealed 18" LMS.

IMO it will sound a lot better and hit a lot harder than the LMS too wink.gif
post #32 of 143
LTD you should have made your single 21TH version a while ago. biggrin.gif Luke this setup should be amazing. I can only imagine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed3 View Post

Cool, I'm OK with the higher tune because of the added benefits. This is Danleys newest HO enclosure, his small enclosure. He has a bigger BC412 version. Can't wait to see it's potential. So we should not look to compare these horns because of the discrepancy. OK lets build a new one that is capable of blowing out a candle at 4 feet @ half power lol.
Have you ever built a horn before?

Not trying to be mean but I dont think blowing a candle out would be difficult with some of the horns built on AVS. Did you look at the HW or LW?

HW video could easily blow a candle out and the video for the LW was just as impressive for moving air. Even Krypto's old monster ported IB3's moved quite a bit of air. Though not as much as a horn but still. Blowing candles out is a neat trick but I feel a lot of horns could do it and dont have to be a full power. Most horns can move quite a bit of air.
Edited by chrapladm - 6/19/13 at 5:05am
post #33 of 143
I don't understand the preoccupation with candles either...lots of regular old vented cabs can do that.
post #34 of 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

I don't understand the preoccupation with candles either...lots of regular old vented cabs can do that.

Me either.... I did that on a whim and shared it with a few friends. When they saw it, I was told that if I didn't get that on youtube and share it, they would post it for me....

To be honest, blowing out a candle isn't that big a deal. I have had ported boxes that could knock an empty beer can over at 3 feet no problem at all.

Response, SPL, and distortion numbers matter a lot more IMO....
post #35 of 143
Thread Starter 
If you want to blow out candles, get a captivator. You could probably blow out a candle at 6-10ft with one of those.
post #36 of 143
Thread Starter 
Finally worked on these a little bit.



post #37 of 143
And then?!
post #38 of 143
Thread Starter 
lol, I'm going to work on these some more today.

Having the Ghorns to listen to doesn't give me a whole lot of incentive to work on these things biggrin.gif
post #39 of 143
Thread Starter 






This time I'm going to put the bracing in and then the next panel, instead of waiting until all the panels are in to then do bracing last.
post #40 of 143
Do use the Kreg brand screws? What length too? I'm going to try the pocket jig on my 2nd thtlp this time.
post #41 of 143
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post

Do use the Kreg brand screws? What length too? I'm going to try the pocket jig on my 2nd thtlp this time.

I do.

The panel thickness determines the screw length:

3/4" to 3/4" = 1.25" screws
1/2" to 3/4" = 1" screws
1/2" to 1/2" = .75" screws
post #42 of 143
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post #43 of 143
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post #44 of 143
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post #45 of 143
Thread Starter 
Worked on the hatches today:

20130720_194843_zps6453b15b.jpg
post #46 of 143
Awesome job in the hatch opening. I would have had a imperfection of some sorts. Everyone always makes these hatches look easy.
post #47 of 143
Thread Starter 
Put probably 10 hours in this weekend. Hatches are done, final 36"x36" side panels are cut, and the driver baffle is cut with the threaded inserts glued in:





All I have left now is some bracing!
post #48 of 143
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Awesome job in the hatch opening. I would have had a imperfection of some sorts. Everyone always makes these hatches look easy.

The hatches take quite a bit of time. I clamp a straight edge to the piece I'm cutting to guide the router and just take it nice and slow.
post #49 of 143
I will have to try the threaded inserts someday soon. I tried them years ago in my THT and they stripped while installed. They WERE an inferior product but I am a bit shy trying it again.
post #50 of 143
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

I will have to try the threaded inserts someday soon. I tried them years ago in my THT and they stripped while installed. They WERE an inferior product but I am a bit shy trying it again.

That happened to me the first time using them as well, and it means the pilot hole is too small. Even when using the size the manufacturer recommends it seems too small.

After putting a drop of gorilla glue on them and then threading them in, they're not coming out. Using a piece of scrap I've tried and it's not happening.
post #51 of 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

That happened to me the first time using them as well, and it means the pilot hole is too small. Even when using the size the manufacturer recommends it seems too small.

After putting a drop of gorilla glue on them and then threading them in, they're not coming out. Using a piece of scrap I've tried and it's not happening.

I've just been using a dab of PL on the insert before I screw it in. No issues.
post #52 of 143
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl1 View Post

I've just been using a dab of PL on the insert before I screw it in. No issues.

I'm sure PL would be just as good if not better. I used gorilla glue for these since it's in a small bottle that's easier to use without making a mess.
post #53 of 143
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20130724_175718_zpse39ebfc2.jpg
post #54 of 143
Dang it yours is going to be done before my TH is. biggrin.gif
post #55 of 143
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post #56 of 143
Man those hatches look perfect. eek.gif How did you do the round overs for the corners for the insert?

I also just noticed that I bought the same table saw - Ridgid 4512, right?

What's the biggest sheet/cut you feel the saw can handle accurately sans outfeed tables etc. IIRC you said in the g-horn thread you did all the long cuts with a tracksaw?
post #57 of 143
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve71 View Post

Man those hatches look perfect. eek.gif How did you do the round overs for the corners for the insert?

I also just noticed that I bought the same table saw - Ridgid 4512, right?

What's the biggest sheet/cut you feel the saw can handle accurately sans outfeed tables etc. IIRC you said in the g-horn thread you did all the long cuts with a tracksaw?

For those corners I just used a palm sander and 60 grit paper. They turned out better than I thought they would!

Yep, I have the same 4512. Even with 3 roller stands the 60x60 pieces were just too awkward to use the table saw my myself.

For the 45x45 pieces for the Ghorn, and the 36x36 pieces for the Othorn, I used straight edge and a 7.25" circular saw.
post #58 of 143
Nice build!
post #59 of 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

For those corners I just used a palm sander and 60 grit paper. They turned out better than I thought they would!

Yep, I have the same 4512. Even with 3 roller stands the 60x60 pieces were just too awkward to use the table saw my myself.

For the 45x45 pieces for the Ghorn, and the 36x36 pieces for the Othorn, I used straight edge and a 7.25" circular saw.

That's good to know, hopefully mine will turn out 1/2 that nice. biggrin.gif

It's amazing how good of a cut you can get with a circular saw and a straight edge (I built my last tapped horn with just those tools + a router).
post #60 of 143
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