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Toshiba L1350U Series (2013) - Page 4

post #91 of 242
I just checked and my TV has the exact same menu. The confusion was because there's no selectable option, it only appears as a greyed-out selection that cannot be highlighted on the Game and PC picture modes. Not only that, but on everything else the option isn't even listed at all.

Shame on you Toshiba for making such an inconsistent menu! tongue.gif What they should have done is make the ClearScan menu option visible on all picture modes but change if it says "Off" or "On" without actually being able to highlight said option.


Anyway, I guess I'll have to fiddle around some more then with my 60fps content and with SVP's artifacts that I get on this TV. I don't particularly like dragging my desktop PC out to the living room though. tongue.gif
Edited by NintendoManiac64 - 1/8/14 at 8:42pm
post #92 of 242
Thanks. I noticed while playing Skyrim on my TV from my PC, when I move around, the image is blurred. Would this be due to the clearscan option?
post #93 of 242
Maybe? Supposedly if you use the PC and/or Game picture modes it's disabled, so give it a whirl.

(I still have not really tested ClearScan)
post #94 of 242
Thanks!
post #95 of 242

It would be nice if we could get some confirmation whether or not Clearscan is disabled in PC/Game mode. Not a fan of motion interpolation myself, but so far whatever it's doing has been pretty much unnoticeable for me. Apparently Clearscan is enabled for 1080i/480i content which I haven't seen much of.

 

An update on the plastic smell: It SEEMS to be going away but that may be due to the house getting colder with the ridiculous weather we've been getting (-30 degrees Celcius? Glad I stayed at home). At this rate it'll probably take more than a month to fully outgas, if it ever does. :(

 

Out of curiosity, when were your TV manufacture dates? Mine was made last November which may have something to do with it.

post #96 of 242
Just picked this up yesterday. Much happier with the Toshiba over the Sharp and Insignia I had the week prior. This one doesn't turn itself on randomly, or need unplugged from power before it will turn on either.
Using this in a spare room for viewing and PC monitor using VGA. I have the "RCA audio out" going to the second input of my amplified PC speakers.
So far, only complaints are:
1: No variable audio option on the RCA outputs.
2: TV speakers seem pretty loud, even on lowest setting
3: PC won't detect and utilize the 1920 resolution, as it did on the Sharp and Insignia. My PC has an AMD chip w/ NVidia graphics, just haven't ventured into the "tweaking" stage yet.
4: Disabled all the "favorites" screens, don't like the way they occupy space on the bottom of the screen.

Not being able to adjust the volume w/ TV speakers off is the big one for me though.
post #97 of 242
Hi, I bought recently Toshiba 39L1350UC LED TV. For a week I was getting excellent picture. But today I noticed that the quality kind of dropped. I started to go through menu. All features were working (I mean I can see difference when I change settings), except "dynalight". I don't see any difference when I am switching from OFF to HIGH (I may be mistaken, but I remember I had seen that difference). Is it normal, or something happened to "dynalight" feature?
post #98 of 242
Gk gibbs do you do any pc gaming?
post #99 of 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by passer2005 View Post

All features were working (I mean I can see difference when I change settings), except "dynalight". I don't see any difference when I am switching from OFF to HIGH (I may be mistaken, but I remember I had seen that difference). Is it normal, or something happened to "dynalight" feature?
Dynalight dims the backlight on darker images. I recommend only setting it for low since it's pretty noticeable when it's set to high.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gkgibbs View Post

1: No variable audio option on the RCA outputs.

Not being able to adjust the volume w/ TV speakers off is the big one for me though.
I'm assuming you mean that the audio signal being output over the RCA cables is entirely static and does not respond to any volume changes? I believe this is standard functionality on all modern HDTV so that you can feed a pre-amp signal to your receiver.

I actually ran into this same issue because the receiver we've been using is literally something like 35 years old (yes, the late 70s!) and therefore has no remote, but he'd been wanting a new one for years now so we finally got one for free via frequent flier miles via business trips that were payed fully by the company he works for.

(before you get the wrong impression, this Toshiba is the first HDTV we've ever bought and it only replaced a 13-year old Trinitron CRT because said CRT died, and of course my father didn't remember that he had flier miles until we had the TV for 2 months already; and that's without mentioning the part where my mother always telling my father "we're too poor! We can't afford [such and such]").
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkgibbs View Post

2: TV speakers seem pretty loud, even on lowest setting
I do agree, but I only find this to be an issue if you're trying to do something audio-wise on the TV without making anyone aware of it, and at that point it may be worthwhile to invest in a pair of headphones (especially one with a built-in volume control so that it'll be useful even with pre-amp audio signals)
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkgibbs View Post

3: PC won't detect and utilize the 1920 resolution, as it did on the Sharp and Insignia. My PC has an AMD chip w/ NVidia graphics, just haven't ventured into the "tweaking" stage yet.
This should only apply to the VGA input and not the HDMI, and even then you can force 1080p by overriding the EDID with this program:
http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU

Note however that overriding the EDID means that the TV's "phase" setting will not stick. However, individual pixel clarity isn't really an issue if you're going to use a high desktop DPI setting anyway (I personally use a whopping 174%).

Alternatively, you could just use a DVI to HDMI adapter. DVI and HDMI use the exact same video signal so adapters are uber cheap, such as this one on Monoprice for only $4.11 including shipping within the US:
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=2029

Of course DVI typically won't pass an audio signal, but this TV allows you to use the VGA's audio input even with one of the HDMI ports once you configure the option in the Menu accordingly (don't remember which HDMI port though).
Edited by NintendoManiac64 - 1/12/14 at 1:44am
post #100 of 242

Is this TV supposed to be leaning back slightly? Before this I had a 46" Samsung LCD, so I'm used to thicker TVs with sturdier bases. The metal rod is not perpendicular to my TV stand, and is leaning back roughly .5 inches. Wondering if this is intended.

post #101 of 242
I wouldn't exactly call it "intentional", but quite a few people have reported that the stand that comes with this TV does have a bit of a tilt - I know mine does (slightly to the left or right, I don't remember).

As for tilting back, I've no idea because I have the behind-edges of the TV up against something else.
post #102 of 242
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I'm really anxious as I've had it a couple days now and still unsure of whether an exchange is warranted.

I also tested the angle of the rod in relation to the stand without the tv mounted and it remained the same.
post #103 of 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post

Gk gibbs do you do any pc gaming?

No gaming, just cable w/out converter, get locals in HD, and computer monitor.
Added an Insignia soundbar as it has remote volume control, plugged in my Altec Lansing Sub and sounds great.
post #104 of 242

I know this isn't related to the L1350U, but does anyone know if the new L1450U is essentially the same set?  Really looking for input lag scores on it.  Thanks!

post #105 of 242
I was wondering though, for the sake of reducing Input Lag for Game Mode, does Game mode make the image look worse?
post #106 of 242
On this TV game mode hardly seems to do anything at all to the picture quality; it only seems to make the maximum color values be a little bit dimmer and make a composite video signal a teeny bit fuzzier.

In terms of everything else the only things that game mode seems to do is reduce input lag and disable ClearScan. I did an uber-quick informal test between "Standard" and "Game" on a 1080p 60hz computer-sourced HDMI signal and didn't really feel much of a difference... I THINK "Game" was a very teeny bit quicker, but this easily could be attributed to placebo. By comparison "Game" on composite has quite noticeably better input lag, especially if you test with a pointing device of any sort (mouse, wiimote IR, etc).
post #107 of 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by NintendoManiac64 View Post

On this TV game mode hardly seems to do anything at all to the picture quality; it only seems to make the maximum color values be a little bit dimmer and make a composite video signal a teeny bit fuzzier.

In terms of everything else the only things that game mode seems to do is reduce input lag and disable ClearScan. I did an uber-quick informal test between "Standard" and "Game" on a 1080p 60hz computer-sourced HDMI signal and didn't really feel much of a difference... I THINK "Game" was a very teeny bit quicker, but this easily could be attributed to placebo. By comparison "Game" on composite has quite noticeably better input lag, especially if you use test with a pointing device of any sort (mouse, wiimote IR, etc).

I have tested this tv with the LB input lag tester and game mode is only 5 ms faster than any other mode. If I remember correctly game mode has 27ms of lag while all other modes have 32ms. I suggest not using game mode though, as it disables the 120hz mode and causes motion blur.
post #108 of 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by *UFO* View Post

I have tested this tv with the LB input lag tester and game mode is only 5 ms faster than any other mode. If I remember correctly game mode has 27ms of lag while all other modes have 32ms. I suggest not using game mode though, as it disables the 120hz mode and causes motion blur.
I still have not done a motion blur test between "Standard" and "Game", so I am basing things regardless of that fact.

Nevertheless, I still highly recommend using "Game" on composite since that reduces the input lag all the way down to HDMI & VGA levels, and motion blur seems to be less of an issue with the 240p signal that the older consoles used, not to mention that games like Perfect Dark which have a max video signal of 480i + composite (without hardware modding) had lower framerates (~20fps) anyway (DreamCast supported VGA while PS2/GC/Xbox supported Component).
Edited by NintendoManiac64 - 1/16/14 at 6:18pm
post #109 of 242
Thanks. Yeah, I tried the all the modes and the motion blur is still there. I think it's more noticable when moving around at 60 FPS. Anyways, for HDMI, I might try your settings again you posted (the one from CNET with minor alterations) under the "Game" mode setting. I find standard has quite a bit of a "grainy" look. Not bad, just more "noise".
post #110 of 242
UFO, your a big gamer, what settings have you chosen on yours? Like a global setting, for games and blu rays.
post #111 of 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post

Thanks. Yeah, I tried the all the modes and the motion blur is still there. I think it's more noticable when moving around at 60 FPS.
Have you tried with the 60fps content I linked to earlier?
http://www.nostro.fr/amv/

Everything on that list from "Auriga" and up are 60fps.

(also you guys totally posted before I finished editing my previous post. :P)
post #112 of 242
Are those videos or games? I was referring to PC gaming with 60 fps in the game. Thanks.
post #113 of 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawe View Post

Are those videos or games? I was referring to PC gaming with 60 fps in the game. Thanks.
They're videos, but I personally do have a video of a game that runs at 60fps. Unfortunately my PC isn't fast enough to record it at 60fps, so for that I have to run the video at 2x the speed.

Here's the 30fps version if you care, note that the 720p version has the best video quality to resolution ratio:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ssmidj916dmw3

I can upload a 2x speed 60fps version if you want (I might do it for my own use anyway).
Edited by NintendoManiac64 - 1/21/14 at 3:22pm
post #114 of 242
Ok. Do you use your cnet altered settings for blu rays? Sorry if I have asked this before.
post #115 of 242
Yes I do. Blu-ray's go under the category of "high quality video source". I have however just today edited the list of settings to include one for people that are OCD about either the "soap opera effect" or input lag.
Edited by NintendoManiac64 - 1/17/14 at 10:39pm
post #116 of 242
Ok. I see you changed the mode to standard. Now, im still confused why sharpness was brought to -25. Do you find the image too grainy?
post #117 of 242
Using various sharpness-calibration test patterns on a PC, -25 seems to be the position of "raw displaying of pixels without any sharpness effects applied" and is usually recommended for pristine sources like Blu-rays, PCs, and game consoles.
post #118 of 242
Ahh ok. Thanks! Im sure I will have more questions.
post #119 of 242
Ahh yes another question. In the CNET settings they have Cinema Mode on TK. My option is greyed out completely.
post #120 of 242
Cinema Mode only applies to interlaced content - it's to restore the original 24fps from a video signal with 3:2 pull down.
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