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Best Value Design for soundproofing?

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I recently moved into a home with an existing "home theater". The dimensions are not ideal for accoustics(21' long x 18' wide x 8 1/2' tall) and there was almost no thought to soundproofing (can lights, thin walls). So I'm thinking of ripping out the drywall and starting from scratch. I'm not looking to break the bank with the remodel and I do have a GC friend who is willing to essentially comp his labor which leaves me only materials. I want to take advantage.

I'm looking for help primarily in soundproofing. There is a bedroom kitty corner above the theater room, a garage behind where the screen would be, one exterior wall (we're on a couple acres), the dining room shares a wall with the back of the room and a wall (where it seems like most of the sound is leaking) that connects to the rest of the house.

I don't have any idea how to budget for materials for this project (probably can work that out with the GC).

If you were starting from scratch for sound proofing but didn't have more than $5-$10k (more preferably $5k) for materials, which route would you go to reduce sound leakage? Is that budget feasible for a room that size? Thanks for the help!
Edited by fuma76 - 6/24/13 at 4:58pm
post #2 of 19
The materials are really not that bad - talk to Ted at The Soundproofing Company for the details... You should be able to do all the materials for a full clips and channel, double-drywall with Green Glue install for around $5k in materials. Local cost of drywall will vary, though. But labor is where the money adds up - so keep your buddy in pizza and beer! biggrin.gif
post #3 of 19
Ted and Co. are great, but I started early and browsed Craigslist regularly. Whatever I couldn't find there, I ordered from Ted (well, John, but same company).
post #4 of 19
Thread Starter 
What did you best find for cheap on Craigslist? What did you have to order?
post #5 of 19
Local, leftover materials from Craigslist will trump just about everyone's prices!

Which reminds me that I've got a mostly-full roll of rubber carpet underlay to put up there... smile.gif
post #6 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

The materials are really not that bad - talk to Ted at The Soundproofing Company for the details... You should be able to do all the materials for a full clips and channel, double-drywall with Green Glue install for around $5k in materials. Local cost of drywall will vary, though. But labor is where the money adds up - so keep your buddy in pizza and beer! biggrin.gif

Ask Ted about his Honda clips, The whisper clip is the BMW. You can do the clips/channel double drywall and Green Glue for around $4k.
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
One other soundproofing question -- in terms of cost and sound performance, would I be better off building boxes for the existing can lights or removing them and building soffits and the like? The current build has about 8 can lights.
Edited by fuma76 - 6/24/13 at 4:49pm
post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuma76 View Post

What did you best find for cheap on Craigslist? What did you have to order?

I got a bucket of 160 RSIC-1 clips for $125 (I won't use all of them, but probably my best deal).
I got one case of 12 tubes of green glue for $50.

I ordered 2 buckets of green glue and a case of sealant from John. If I would have waited another month someone listed 2 buckets for $150 for both. Patience is key.

Regarding the cans, I had hung my new-construction cans before I decided to soundproof, then I took them out and put them in backer boxes. Putting them in a soffit that's built entirely in an already-soundproofed "shell" is probably ideal though.
post #9 of 19
Does clips or channels work as well as staggered studs ?
post #10 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Does clips or channels work as well as staggered studs ?

I seem to recall something on the Soundproofing Co. website that said clips and channel are preferred over a staggered-stud wall, but less so than a double wall.
post #11 of 19


This graphic seems to suggest otherwise.
post #12 of 19


Concept makes sense.



http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/staggered-stud-wall-construction/

Thanks for suggesting the site. I've visited it many times but didn't think to look there for the answer.

It's really a tremendous website and resource
post #13 of 19
So what costs more ? Clips / Channel or Staggered Stud ?

I'd guess staggered stud is the prefered method for new construction ? yes?
post #14 of 19
Why not double/staggered stud, double drywall, Whisper clips, and GG? Mostly cost concern?
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Why not double/staggered stud, double drywall, Whisper clips, and GG? Mostly cost concern?

Yes, Exactly, Cost. It's a major concern.
post #16 of 19
Should be a value concern as well. Ted reportedly already said that whisper clips offer negligible performance increase over their cheaper clips when used with double drywall. It would have been awesome if they had told me that before selling me $2,000 worth of whisper clips. I also have to wonder if $2,000 worth of green slime between the walls was really necessary. What did that really buy me?

If I did another theater I wouldn't use clips & channel. It was, and continues to be a big pain in the ass and drives up expenses. There are special layout considerations, specialty within trades needed, rules for what screws can be used when, having to source the proper type of channel, and no way to inspect the work. After it's done, you need go back and locate the channels under the drywall in order to attach anything to the wall (can only screw into the channels, or else you loose the soundproofing benefits). With double studs or stagger studs, any framer can do it. It's simple & straightforward. You can inspect the work prior to drywall and make any corrections. You don't have to buy any specialty products during the install, and the "design" is easy enough to do on your own (for walls).
post #17 of 19
I don't have any measurement tools to get good numbers, but I can give you real world experience from my build...to save some $$, I only went with clips and channel on my ceiling and did double-stud walls between the theater and a lounge area. I did use green glue and double drywall on each surface. In both cases, I can happily say it's a huge improvement over what was there before and no matter where I am, I can only barely, if I really strain for it, hear the bass. The best part is that I no longer can hear anyone (including my dogs) walk along the HW floors above or our extremely loud washer.

It's tough to pick which one is better because they both are doing a great job, but the double-stud was definitely cheaper and easier to put together than using clips and channel.
post #18 of 19
Ok, I just found this thread and joined AVS Forum to ask for advice.

Proposed HT Size at "finished" dimensions:

L = 23'
W = 14'
H = 7.5'
  • The Front (Screen) Wall and the Left Side Wall of the HT are adjacent to the poured concrete foundation.

I am going to build a HT and "planning" and budgeting right now. So, regarding sound absorption/isolation/proofing/etc... what are your thoughts about the following, keep in mind I'm looking for the best bang for the buck:

Metal Studs 2x4 at 25 gage
Spacing: What design should I go with? Thinking of single layer not staggered. Should I go on centers at 16" or 24" spacing...?
Roxul Fire and Sound 3" insulation. I can purchase 24" wide on a "deal" that I found... What else is better/less expensive for wall insulation?
So, if I use Roxul at 24" wide and build the room to 16" on centers, I can cut Roxul to fit 16" spacing and put the 8" pieces in the ceiling top layer of two total insulation layers in the ceiling if need be...

I need to get a Solid Core door and install this before I start framing. Then ensure that the door is sealed with some type of weather stripping on sides and at the floor.

WALLS:
Unfinished Side of Basement
  1. 5/8" drywall of some type
  2. 2x4 metal studs on 16" or 24" centers
  3. Roxul Insulation
  4. Some type of resilient channel: I don't know about the different types - I was thinking of something about 1/2" thick...
  5. I read that you can put a closed cell foam at the resilient channel to help with sound proofing before adding the first layer, your thoughts...?
  6. Celotex sound deadening board 1/2" for the first layer
  7. GG
  8. Overlapping the Celotex seams with QuietRock 1/2" for the second layer of drywall
  9. Caulking for sound
Finished HT Side of Basement

CEILING:
  1. 2x10 wood floor joists on 16" centers
  2. Pieces of leftover Roxul at 8" and 8"
  3. Second layer of Roxul at 16" wide
  4. Resilient Channel of some type
  5. 1 layer of 5/8" drywall of some type - Any recco's?

FLOORS:
  1. The floors are concrete slab
  2. I was thinking of just carpet padding of some type
  3. Then a low profile/tight weave of carpet
  4. Do I need to consider another sound treatment here, if so what are your thoughts about using roofing roll here? Rolled Roofing or Roofing Roll has been mentioned in other threads as a less expensive alternative to adding mass...

I'd love to put in recessed lights in the ceiling, unless I build a sofit of some kind, I have reservations about turning all of this into swiss cheese...

What is too much to do if you are on a budget? What am I missing? What would you do differently?

Thanks,

Greg
post #19 of 19
How much extra space does a double wall end up consuming ?
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