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Projector wall has blemishes from previous holes fixes

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
Hello. New member here. I've been reading these boards for a long time, and received a lot of useful info. Now I seem to have run into an issue and I can't find any threads with info on this.

I painted my wall with the proper screen paint, so this wall is essentially the screen. I made sure and filled any holes, and sanded/cleaned appropriately. I just finished my first coat of paint and I tested it out by playing a video on it, and the areas where the holes were fixed stand out like crazy. Of course, you have to be at the correct angle to see these blemishes, but the couch just so happens to be the correct angle. To fill the holes I just used a Spackling called "Dry Dex", then I sanded it down and wiped it. Am I supposed to use some sort of drywall compound so that it's the same texture as the drywall? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


post #2 of 21
Well first off, welcome to AVS and more specifically, to the DIY Screen Forum.

Yes...the use of Spackle was your undoing. Spackle may me OK when you want to fill in a nail hole, and then re-paint / touch up a spot o9 a wall. Usually, it won;t be too noticeable, if at all. But when your trying to accomplish getting a smooth, virtually perfectly even surface on which to project a bright image....it becomes the worst possible choice to use.

Spackle is a very fast drying compound that has a very large amount of Silica in it's composition. (ie: sand) Just, as Sand is used to fill holes and level ground in a yard, so also is it used as the "filler" in cement....of which Spackle is...essentially a quick drying, low density cement..

As such, Spackle s consistency and texture is more porous than Drywall Compound, and a order of magnitude more coarse than the texture of paint. It is intended to be used where the use of Drywall tape isn't practical. Very small holes whose presence once filled and painted over would be hard to detect.

When Drywall; compound is put on top of a pre finished surface, it's leading edges must be feathered out so as to virtually disappear, creating a gradual transition, not an abrupt, defined edge. Spackle isn't suited for such fine sanding, nor can it be diluted (thinned) like Drywall compound. As such, on the directions it will tell you of it;s limitations...how big the size hole / area it can cover is.

Another serious oversight is that many people do not re-prime a Spackle'd area. All of the above leads to whatever paint being used as absorbing at a different rate into Spackle, and highlighting the difference between the Spackle and the surrounding areas, usually making the edge stand out despite that edge feeling smooth to the touch.

To correct this atrocity, you will have to apply Drywall compound over those spackle'd areas and to a point where the leading edge of the Drywall Compound is several inches out past the edges of the Spackle 's edges. Then you must lightly sand the edges down until you start to see the Drywall compound thin out and the underlying wall surface start to show through, kinda "hazily". Only sand the center of the recovered area lightly, so that it is flattened and smooth.

Then re-prime the ENTIRE Wall. Better still, after you have blended the offending areas , re-coat the entire screen area with a thin Skim Coat of Drywall Compound onto the entire surface of the screen area, then lightly sand it smooth. "THEN" re-prime the screen area with two, carefully applied coats of primer. Not too thick, so as to not allow excessive absorption into the more porous Drywall compound areas, but rather to "Seal" those areas so the paiont to be applied lies on the surface and dries smooth and evenly.

This will serve to even out the texture differences between pre-finished areas and the repaired areas, and do so much more evenly than simply re priming the repaired spots before re-painting can / will alone. What would be considered redundant if the Wall is just a "Wall" to be looked at under normal light becomes mandatory when you need a perfectly smooth, evenly textured surface.

Look for what is called "Lightweight Drywall Compound" Use a "Large - Fine Grit" Sanding sponge to feather out those "mud'ded" edges.

And now....why don't you relate as to what "the proper screen paint" is and a little bit more about your Projector system and viewing situation. Just might be you need more advice on a broader range of subjects than just re salvaging your wall.
post #3 of 21
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the detailed response, it's greatly appreciated!

I'm heading out now to buy some Lightweight Drywall Compound and some primer and I'll do it all from scratch It's just one wall, so it shouldn't be too bad.

To answer your question about the paint I am using, I didn't go the expensive route, instead going with the pro classic Satin mixed with SW 7071 Screen Gray (read on lots of forums the results were good). It went on very nicely, which was actually amazing, and it turned out a little more blue than I would've expected (just 1 coat thus far), but once i watched a movie on it, besides the blemishes, the colors were fantastic. I understand I went the cheaper route, but I'm happy with the results and I'm glad there was no hotspotting. The projector I used is an Epson 3020, and it's roughly 13 feet from my wall with a projection of about 107".

With your help, I think I can get the desired results, so I thank you for that! I'll try to do most of it from scratch today, and if I have any more questions, I hope you have time to answer them!. Thanks again!
post #4 of 21
Well be advised that more people have complained about hot spotting than have not.

And many did not use a PJ such as the 3010 either. Satins are great for lower lumen PJs, or with use on humongous sized screens where centralized hot spotting usually cannot, or does not seem as apparent.

You said you only had applied 1 coat so far.That's not enough to really have the reflectivity of the SW-PC-S kick in.

I do hope it turns out well for you...not trying to cloud the future. However understand it;s the paints own tendency to reflect so differently on various surfaces that brought out the issues your having, and that was only with one coat. Too bad we were your last stop for advice instead of the first....but your here now, and we'll do whatever we can.

To my reasoning though, you would be sorely mistaken not to mix in at least 1 quart of SW Duration "Flat" tinted with your same Gray so as to knock down the Satin sheen just a bit.
post #5 of 21
Thread Starter 
That's a good idea, I'll pick up a can of Duration Matt tomorrow with the gray mixture and add it to the mixture I have. Thanks again, and I'll let you know how it goes!
post #6 of 21
Thread Starter 
Thinking about it some more, maybe I'll just use the Duration Matt fully, as all I need is a small can for 2 layers on the wall... unless you think mixing the 2 might be beneficial, since it will make the Matt pop a bit more. Either way, I'll pick up a can tomorrow. As is stands now, the Pro Classic Satin will either get mixed into the Duration, or else it will go to waste.
post #7 of 21
Mix 'em. You can expect more reflectivity from the hybrid mix than from the Duration alone, and always use the additional amount for any future repairs or touch-ups. It's always a good idea to expect you'll need more than you think.
post #8 of 21
Thread Starter 
Okay, I'll mix 'em. So since I'll have a quart of each, in your opinion, would a mixture of 50/50 probably be correct? Sorry if the answer is obvious, I've never mixed bases together before.
post #9 of 21
Normally, Mix 'em means mix 'EM ALL. Better to have a Flat paint with a bit of sheen that a Sheen-type paint with a bit of Flat.

Still, It will be ok to go 50/50. Your better off now than before, and much more assured of success.
post #10 of 21
Thread Starter 
I'll mix them with a majority of Matt mixed in, I want to be sure of no hotspotting. Thanks again for your replies and I'll let you know how things turn out!
Edited by mweinkauf - 7/8/13 at 3:12pm
post #11 of 21
Originally Posted by mweinkauf View Post

I'll mix them with a majority of Matt mixed in, I want to be sure of no hotspotting. Thanks again for your replies and I'll let you know how things turn out!

Please do! More for the benefit of all who deign to dwell within than for my own need to know.

Your thinking wisely, for to err slightly while being conservative is far better than to fail miserably while trying to go too far.
post #12 of 21
Thread Starter 
Okay, finally have time to start with the re-do. I have sanded it down and getting ready to apply the Drywall Compound. Do you have any advice for this? I googled it but mostly people just use the compound to fill in connecting drywall joints, and not for the purpose I'm doing (an entire wall for a consistent projector picture). I'm going to put a thin coat on and then sand it down until flat... since it's impossible to get it as flat as the drywall already is, I hope this turns out!
post #13 of 21
A skim coat is just that, Compound applied very thinly, with sweeping strokes and a light touch. You want to spead it out very evenly and so thin, your almost scraping it all back up. But not quite.

Unlike adding compound on much heavier over Joints, and then trying to smooth it out but not take too much away, with a skim coat your apply compound to as large an area as your loaded knife can handle, and start smoothing it out very thin from the very start.

If this is done correctly, you are not going to have much more difference in height than you started. In fact, I'm betting you'll get the hang of it quickly enough. No matter what else, it will be better to have less than more, but best if everything looks almost to have the same coverage before sanding.

I'm hoping you invested in the Large Sanding Sponges in the Drywall section of HD / Lowes.Ideally, getting a 3" x 9" x 1" Fine / Medium Combo will do you the best job. Use it with a touch like you are wiping on wax. Nice a smooth, keep your hand flat on the length of the Sponge, and sweep away.

(...please, no Wax on - Wax off ...)

And when you start sanding, it should become very easy to judge any spot that is not level, and any that are not will almost assuredly be higher...not lower. Noticeably prominent Ridges left by the Knife should be hit lightly first, and brought down level to the adjacent "Non Sanded" areas before you start sanding the bulk of the surface.

And don't overdo it.....that is the most common mistake. You will be "Brush-Sanding" the surface, not "Scrubbing. Sanding lightly means long, even, light strokes...3=4 strokes per area then moving to the side and repeating, barely overlapping the previously sanded area.

Good luck...and at least wear a Breath Mask (...one with the little Valve...) when sanding.
post #14 of 21
Thread Starter 
Okay, I sanded it and I've applied the drywall compound:

I think I applied too much compound overall, but nothing that sanding can't fix. Also, I didn't do entire wall because I felt that anything projector doesn't touch is overkill. Besides, on bottom is where entertainment cabinet will go, and on the sides are where the speakers will be going, so no projector picture.

Now I'm going to sand that compound down and then wipe it down with tack cloth.
post #15 of 21
Thread Starter 
Oh, and FYI, that picture was taken last night, when it was still drying, so you can still see some not 100% dry spots. It's 100% dry today wink.gif
post #16 of 21
How did it turn out?
post #17 of 21
Originally Posted by Jonny5nz View Post

How did it turn out?

He's either watchin' movies...or cryin' in his beer.

The latter being tragic....a terrible waste of beer.
post #18 of 21
Thread Starter 
I have fully sanded it. Unfortunately I had a spur of the moment business travel thing to attend to, so I haven't finished this yet. I wanted to prime and paint it this coming weekend, but it's looking booked up. But hopefully I can find time in the next week or so. But trust me, I will definitely post pics and results as soon as this project is complete, as this has been a great learning experience for me.
post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
Here is the end result! Component cabinet will be here later this week and then it should be good. Picture looks great, so thanks for your help MississippiMan, it was greatly appreciated! Picture is below!

post #20 of 21
Thread Starter 
Oh, I'll also be putting up blinds over windows, so you won't see the speaker shadows. All in due time!
post #21 of 21
Oh Jeesh! That looks great! Plenty of brightness and deep color, even with the reflected light.

You showed that wall who was Boss. Looking forward to some great screen shots.

  • Set Camera on Auto (everything)
  • Stand centered in the room in front of the screen.
  • Using your Zoom, frame the screen with just enough side content to show the room's walls. Roughly 1/10th the actual image width.
  • Pause the image, finding a Frame with no judder or blurring.
  • Use a Tripod or Brace, and at least 2 sec. Shutter delay to avoid image shake related "Fuzziness"
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