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Ideas On Getting Bad Black Level fixed

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 
I have had some issues with a kuro 111. A lot of odd things, really. But one issue is that the black level is so bad that when looked at in a pitch black room or even simply in a dimly lit room the black bars are FAR brighter than a middle tier 2006 LCD.

Well the guy who came out just replaced a power supply due to other issues (really there were other issues is what was trying to get looked into) and kept insisting the black level is oh so great. Well when the power supply was replaced really no issues at all improved!

And also when he was here that time he kept insisting it's normal for blacks to look gray! On a freakin tv of this level he was trying to get e to believe him that this was performing normally!

I doubt anyone will have any suggestions on what to do now, but figured I would ask. frown.gif There's not really even anyone else who can come look at it and when this guy won't admit there is a problem, there's not much I know to do. I saw a y sustain board on ebay and had thought about paying my own money to replace that, but I sure wouldn't want to risk replacing it myself and I can't just buy every part replacing them, hoping I am lucky and it'[s not the panel.

He said the panel is fine, but with all the misinformation he was giving about black levels, who knows what he even checked.

I am hoping maybe someone will have knowledge on this tv from a repair standpoint and know what are possibilities of causing this, since it clearly was not the power supply. I just thought it would have to be one of the sustains, but he claimed those looked "great", as well.

For the black level, he measured nothing! But even if I were able to measure it myself and prove how bad it is, I'm sure the warranty people will just claim that online mentions of what the black level is supposed to be aren't relevant, as it's from cnet and whoever else, not the manufacturer stating what it should be.

The only people on this site with equipment to measure black level want hundreds of dollars just to basically measure that and there be no calibration! So I don't have anything I can do, apparently, and like I said, who cares if they measure how bad it is? I know without them measuring it is way off, so it does me no good proving it to myself and then nobody fixing it.

My honest guess is that if I do ever get it measured it's going to be 10 times worse, at minimum, than it's supposed to be. You know good and well a middle tier old LCD being darker tells a lot.... and it's not anything good being told by that fact. I watched a movie in the dark recently and couldn't even concentrate as the bright bars were even more distracting than edge lit led bleedthrough is!
post #2 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

I have had some issues with a kuro 111. A lot of odd things, really. But one issue is that the black level is so bad that when looked at in a pitch black room or even simply in a dimly lit room the black bars are FAR brighter than a middle tier 2006 LCD.

Well the guy who came out just replaced a power supply due to other issues (really there were other issues is what was trying to get looked into) and kept insisting the black level is oh so great. Well when the power supply was replaced really no issues at all improved!

And also when he was here that time he kept insisting it's normal for blacks to look gray! On a freakin tv of this level he was trying to get e to believe him that this was performing normally!

I doubt anyone will have any suggestions on what to do now, but figured I would ask. frown.gif There's not really even anyone else who can come look at it and when this guy won't admit there is a problem, there's not much I know to do. I saw a y sustain board on ebay and had thought about paying my own money to replace that, but I sure wouldn't want to risk replacing it myself and I can't just buy every part replacing them, hoping I am lucky and it'[s not the panel.

He said the panel is fine, but with all the misinformation he was giving about black levels, who knows what he even checked.

I am hoping maybe someone will have knowledge on this tv from a repair standpoint and know what are possibilities of causing this, since it clearly was not the power supply. I just thought it would have to be one of the sustains, but he claimed those looked "great", as well.

For the black level, he measured nothing! But even if I were able to measure it myself and prove how bad it is, I'm sure the warranty people will just claim that online mentions of what the black level is supposed to be aren't relevant, as it's from cnet and whoever else, not the manufacturer stating what it should be.

The only people on this site with equipment to measure black level want hundreds of dollars just to basically measure that and there be no calibration! So I don't have anything I can do, apparently, and like I said, who cares if they measure how bad it is? I know without them measuring it is way off, so it does me no good proving it to myself and then nobody fixing it.

My honest guess is that if I do ever get it measured it's going to be 10 times worse, at minimum, than it's supposed to be. You know good and well a middle tier old LCD being darker tells a lot.... and it's not anything good being told by that fact. I watched a movie in the dark recently and couldn't even concentrate as the bright bars were even more distracting than edge lit led bleedthrough is!

Are you sure that you have the input profile set up properly? You may need to change your 111 and/or source to RGB full (0-255) or limited (16-235) depending on what components you're using. When I first brought my 101FD home, I ran my HD cable box to it and it was incredibly washed out. After changing the input setting from the default auto to forcing it into limited, (I'm fairly certain... maybe it was full?) everything was fine.

Actually, more than "fine"... it blew my mind even on stock pure and with Time Warner's horrendous HD signal!
post #3 of 29
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I've tried all of that, but people, including D-nice, have stated that it only matters for the monitors (such as your 101). Tried it just in case though. I've also used other hdmi ports, used something directly into an hdmi rather than through my soundbar receiver, even lowered contrast and brightness all the way down just to see if the absolute lowest settings, ignoring all else, would change the black levels, and it didn't. Also tried pure and all ISF modes. So it's looking like I spent a ton on a tv that will never give me the wow factor. In some ways I still think it has a great picture, depending on content, but you can never be truly happy with a high end tv that has bright black levels. Too few scenes unaffected. Seems hopeless now since there's no way to get someone who thinks o erroneously about black levels to admit the problem. I don't know how someone can think a tv can't get close to true black after so many years now of decently close sets. For someone to think it's "normal" to be gray (his words), that is troubling.

An ST50 set did blow my mind, so the fact that this is much worse levels shows there is a problem (obviously my LCD comparison shows it even more as there should NEVER be an old CCFL LCD having darker bars than a freakin kuro).
post #4 of 29
Thread Starter 
Bumo. How can there not be even one person on here who can tell what part would tend to cause this, if faulty? I want to know my next course of action hen the only repair person is clearly not knowledgeable about this and I shouldn't be forced to have something faulty continue for the large price paid. Woulsd just be really odd if not even one person here is an expert on fixing this type of issue and know which parts of a plasma could cause it!
post #5 of 29
Sorry. That was my best guess. With no signal being fed to the panel there should be a bit of a gray glow, but to see on letterbox bars... that shouldn't be happening. If you're truly having the issues described during normal viewing then I would, indeed, conclude that your television is faulty. What may be failing I cannot say.

Best of luck to you in finding a fix.
post #6 of 29
The saga continues. frown.gif There is a plasma repair tech who posts here if I'm not mistaken, maybe he can chime in.
post #7 of 29
Thread Starter 
If it's the one who posted a couple days ago in another thread, he told me via PM it is usually related to settings rather than parts, but I just don't think that's possible in my case. As I said, I went to extreme lengths changing settings to ignore everything EXCEPT low level brightness and still it didn't seem to change at all.

I just thought since a few people on here think they know everything and act smug about it, that surely those particular few would have solutions, but I guess they don't know as much as they think if they don't know which parts affect black levels. Surely anyone knowing the mechanics of a plasma veryw ell would know which parts influence that one area.

If nobody here ends up being capable of helping me solve it, I really doubt I will ever find out the issue. One other person here had this same type issue several years ago and never got it fixed. There aren't many repair people at all. I have no real way of proving it to the warranty company. I searched all voer the internet and it's amazing with so many sites related to fixing things, almost nothing can be found on this type of issue for a plasma tv.

I really think it must be the panel because it behaves so weirdly, such as when I sue a Disney wow disc and get the checkerboard squares to disappear when lowering brightness, the OUTLINES of them still stay there even when the squares vanish. I've sued that disc on many tvs and never has a single tv hadf that happen, whether LCD, led, or plasma. Something very weird happening. And let's say I can somehow prove to the company that an issue exists... well if there is no solution I doubt they will hand over the money for a tv which still works by MOST people's standards. I have had people tell me they don't know why I even think there is a problem and then that repair guy even insisted it looked oh so perfect. Trust me, I am not nitpicking, this is big time noticeable, even with ambient light sometimes. I can deal with the picture itself being "less punchy" due to a bad black level, if only the black bars and full black screens weren't so noticeably worse than they started out on all of these models.
post #8 of 29
Thread Starter 
How fun. Stuck with a tv with absolutely terrible black levels and can find zero people who know a thing about it. ANYWHERE. Online, repair people, Pioneer themselves, etc. Just what I needed. I already have enough problems without spending so much money on a tv to just get worse black elvels than my older LCD. Then people actually ridiculous enough to claim it's "normal" and a great level. I wish I knew a calibrator from this area who wouldn't mind checking the level cheaply or for free. But like I said, what good is it to have proof of how bad it is when then repair people will just be clueless about what numbers even mean and still say it's not a problem.
post #9 of 29
Thread Starter 
bump. sad that not even one repair person on here and no advice. the state of tv repairs is just a sad situation, apparently. Nobody is competent and nobody is helpful. I guess when a tv has a problem your only choice is to toss it out for good. Pathetic market.
post #10 of 29
You either have a defective panel or the set is not adjusted properly, not sure why you think there is some magic fix hovering somewhere just our of reach, Kuros are know for outstanding black level so as I said it is a settings issue, something in your chain or your panel is defective.
post #11 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

I have had some issues with a kuro 111. A lot of odd things, really. But one issue is that the black level is so bad that when looked at in a pitch black room or even simply in a dimly lit room the black bars are FAR brighter than a middle tier 2006 LCD.

Well the guy who came out just replaced a power supply due to other issues (really there were other issues is what was trying to get looked into) and kept insisting the black level is oh so great. Well when the power supply was replaced really no issues at all improved!

And also when he was here that time he kept insisting it's normal for blacks to look gray! On a freakin tv of this level he was trying to get e to believe him that this was performing normally!

I doubt anyone will have any suggestions on what to do now, but figured I would ask. frown.gif There's not really even anyone else who can come look at it and when this guy won't admit there is a problem, there's not much I know to do. I saw a y sustain board on ebay and had thought about paying my own money to replace that, but I sure wouldn't want to risk replacing it myself and I can't just buy every part replacing them, hoping I am lucky and it'[s not the panel.

He said the panel is fine, but with all the misinformation he was giving about black levels, who knows what he even checked.

I am hoping maybe someone will have knowledge on this tv from a repair standpoint and know what are possibilities of causing this, since it clearly was not the power supply. I just thought it would have to be one of the sustains, but he claimed those looked "great", as well.

For the black level, he measured nothing! But even if I were able to measure it myself and prove how bad it is, I'm sure the warranty people will just claim that online mentions of what the black level is supposed to be aren't relevant, as it's from cnet and whoever else, not the manufacturer stating what it should be.

The only people on this site with equipment to measure black level want hundreds of dollars just to basically measure that and there be no calibration! So I don't have anything I can do, apparently, and like I said, who cares if they measure how bad it is? I know without them measuring it is way off, so it does me no good proving it to myself and then nobody fixing it.

My honest guess is that if I do ever get it measured it's going to be 10 times worse, at minimum, than it's supposed to be. You know good and well a middle tier old LCD being darker tells a lot.... and it's not anything good being told by that fact. I watched a movie in the dark recently and couldn't even concentrate as the bright bars were even more distracting than edge lit led bleedthrough is!

Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

Yeah, I've tried all of that, but people, including D-nice, have stated that it only matters for the monitors (such as your 101). Tried it just in case though. I've also used other hdmi ports, used something directly into an hdmi rather than through my soundbar receiver, even lowered contrast and brightness all the way down just to see if the absolute lowest settings, ignoring all else, would change the black levels, and it didn't. Also tried pure and all ISF modes. So it's looking like I spent a ton on a tv that will never give me the wow factor. In some ways I still think it has a great picture, depending on content, but you can never be truly happy with a high end tv that has bright black levels. Too few scenes unaffected. Seems hopeless now since there's no way to get someone who thinks o erroneously about black levels to admit the problem. I don't know how someone can think a tv can't get close to true black after so many years now of decently close sets. For someone to think it's "normal" to be gray (his words), that is troubling.

An ST50 set did blow my mind, so the fact that this is much worse levels shows there is a problem (obviously my LCD comparison shows it even more as there should NEVER be an old CCFL LCD having darker bars than a freakin kuro).

Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

If it's the one who posted a couple days ago in another thread, he told me via PM it is usually related to settings rather than parts, but I just don't think that's possible in my case. As I said, I went to extreme lengths changing settings to ignore everything EXCEPT low level brightness and still it didn't seem to change at all.

I just thought since a few people on here think they know everything and act smug about it, that surely those particular few would have solutions, but I guess they don't know as much as they think if they don't know which parts affect black levels. Surely anyone knowing the mechanics of a plasma veryw ell would know which parts influence that one area.

If nobody here ends up being capable of helping me solve it, I really doubt I will ever find out the issue. One other person here had this same type issue several years ago and never got it fixed. There aren't many repair people at all. I have no real way of proving it to the warranty company. I searched all voer the internet and it's amazing with so many sites related to fixing things, almost nothing can be found on this type of issue for a plasma tv.

I really think it must be the panel because it behaves so weirdly, such as when I sue a Disney wow disc and get the checkerboard squares to disappear when lowering brightness, the OUTLINES of them still stay there even when the squares vanish. I've sued that disc on many tvs and never has a single tv hadf that happen, whether LCD, led, or plasma. Something very weird happening. And let's say I can somehow prove to the company that an issue exists... well if there is no solution I doubt they will hand over the money for a tv which still works by MOST people's standards. I have had people tell me they don't know why I even think there is a problem and then that repair guy even insisted it looked oh so perfect. Trust me, I am not nitpicking, this is big time noticeable, even with ambient light sometimes. I can deal with the picture itself being "less punchy" due to a bad black level, if only the black bars and full black screens weren't so noticeably worse than they started out on all of these models.

Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

bump. sad that not even one repair person on here and no advice. the state of tv repairs is just a sad situation, apparently. Nobody is competent and nobody is helpful. I guess when a tv has a problem your only choice is to toss it out for good. Pathetic market.
How sad for you that you can't get your $1200 TV fixed for free by a psychic repairman. Why do you suppose that is? Could it be your poor attitude?
Edited by olyteddy - 7/16/13 at 9:48pm
post #12 of 29
Thread Starter 
haha yeah everyone ignoring me means I have a poor attitude. repair people telling BS that it's normal too have this terrible of a black level, much worse than an LCD, on an elite is because of my poor attitude, also. You got it figured out. Also I paid much more than $1200.

chunon, maybe you should read. I already know it's an issue with a PART. That does not mean it's the PANEL itself. It could be a sustain board, for example. Crazy that out of this many days, not one person with knowledge of parts has responded.

As far as magic answers, yeah crazy me thinking there are solutions to mechanical issues on a tv. I guess normal people understand when you have a part go bad there is no such thing as repairs. haha.
Edited by somelogin - 7/18/13 at 10:15am
post #13 of 29
Thread Starter 
bump
post #14 of 29
Thread Starter 
bump
post #15 of 29
At the risk of being attacked for A) lacking knowledge (true; I've never even seen a Kuro) and B) not being helpful (hopefully not true), I'm going to make a suggestion: Why not help people here help you by adding some information instead of just bumping? There really isn't much in your posts except your own opinions. Perhaps provide all of your current settings, a description of your chain, and the settings on your source(s)? Also, although I find pictures of screens useless for judging PQ, one of yours might be useful if the issue is as bad as you say it is.
post #16 of 29
Thread Starter 
I've explained all of that. For settings I used D-nice ones and cnet ones and I used a Disney wow disc (which had odd results). Again, if I turn contrast and brightness all the way to minimums this issue does not improve whatsoever. That, along with my description of it being worse than a 2006 mid range CCFL LCD black elvel should be plenty to make it clear it's a part issue. I have it connected through a sound bar where the receiver is a switch, but as I have stated, I have tried connected straight tot he tv and in every hdmi port and also it does it in the component port which is connected straight through.

So it's not the settings, it's not the chain (it happens with TiVo, with the oppo blu ray player, etc...), it's not a bad port. It has that main firmware update, so it's not the firmware. There's nothing it could be other than a part and it's not the power supply.
post #17 of 29
Thread Starter 
Bump. All these posts on this site and amazingly there are always zero people who have knowledge about repairs, apparently.
post #18 of 29
"I just thought since a few people on here think they know everything and act smug about it, that surely those particular few would have solutions, but I guess they don't know as much as they think if they don't know which parts affect black levels."

"sad that not even one repair person on here and no advice. the state of tv repairs is just a sad situation, apparently. Nobody is competent and nobody is helpful."

"All these posts on this site and amazingly there are always zero people who have knowledge about repairs, apparently."

Crazy. I can't understand why nobody is helping you.
post #19 of 29
How many hours are on the TV? That could be relevant. Doesn't sound like your panel is bad, and if that's true, then you need somebody who really knows Kuros to come and adjust then calibrate it. Not a (warranty) service repair person, who do things by the book because they have to, even if they have other experience. You need someone independent with knowledge and experience, and I'll bet they can fix it to better than when you got it (especially if it was used). You know who you gotta call... Or for less than a few hundred bucks of gear and quite a bit of reading and learning time, you can do it yourself, and then keep it tuned up. Getting angry at the TV and forum members isn't going to help, there are actually relatively few people who probably can do what you require if the obvious things don't work. Any of them would need to be physically present at your house, this is not a "remote fixable" problem if you've already checked the basic things as you said, and that will cost. It may require going into the service menu. It would really help in the long and short run if you got an instrument and could take some measurements, so you'd have something solid to work with or report on, even if you decide on getting a pro out. You can't really effectively do any of the more nitty-gritty things forum members *might* suggest without one anyways. (I have a 151 which is the 60" version of yours, mine looks excellent, and IME the 50" versions should all be able to look subjectively *better* than the corresponding 60" model.)
post #20 of 29
Thread Starter 
It is a remote diagnosable problem because anyone who knows how plasmas work and how to repair them would know right off which parts MAY be causing it, and it's already known it wasn't the power supply, so there aren't many other choices of what MAY cause bad black levels. It's not a calibration thing. Again, if I turn contrast and brightness down to minimums it doesn't get any darker whatsoever, which shows something s limiting it from getting darker than a particular ABD level. And no i don't have any sensors turned on. Something is faulty, plain and simple, and I already had the only repair place check and a lot of his comments made it obvious he's never going to find out the problem, as he claimed it ahs a great black level already and it's actually the worst I ahev EVER seen on any tv for black bars or a full black screen. Even CCFL LCDs are better because with them it's obvious light is shining through whereas with this tv it's the color itself looking wrong. I could deal with bleedthrough way easier than dealing with a bad black level with this type of look to it where it's not even looking black at all sometimes.
post #21 of 29
Pioneer won't replace any boards just because some random person on the internet guessed that it might help. So, what exactly are you trying to accomplish with these posts? Have you tried asking for a different technician, or speaking to a supervisor? Maybe you have, and you've burned those bridges, so that's why you're coming here?

If you don't want to pay anybody for their time and skills, perhaps the only remaining option is to adjust your set yourself. The 111FD service manual is freely available online, and it is one of the most extensive TV service manuals (and service menus) that I've seen. Maybe you can run through the procedures to re-marry the panel with the boards and/or tweak the voltages to your heart's content. Doing it right would require equipment and expertise, and doing it wrong could destroy your set. Good luck.
post #22 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

It is a remote diagnosable problem because anyone who knows how plasmas work and how to repair them would know right off which parts MAY be causing it, and it's already known it wasn't the power supply, so there aren't many other choices of what MAY cause bad black levels. It's not a calibration thing.

You are incorrect in your belief that it's remote diagnosable, this should be obvious by now, and is ultimately preventing you from getting your TV fixed. As is your belief that all plasmas are the same, and knowing how plasmas work enables someone to remotely fix any particular unit. I bet 100% of the other people reading this thread know that. I didn't say it is a "calibration thing". In fact, I think the problem likely can't be "calibrated out" or even covered up to your satisfaction. You'll probably need the instruments *after* the problem is fixed, if you do it yourself, then it will probably require some "calibration". Going by your eyes is a fool's errand if you truly care, the instruments will show how wrong you were...but then black blacks may be all you want. You're going to have to pay, one way or the other, and I have to say your attitude isn't lowering the price or the possibility someone able will come out...
post #23 of 29
Thread Starter 
AGAIN, only certain parts can AFFECT the black level and so anyone with repair knowledge would be able to list them. Obviously, neither of you know about tv repairs, so the rudeness is a waste of time, as you are not experts. WHAT am I refusing to do? I. SET. CONTRAST. AND. BRIGHTNESS. TO. MINIMUM. LEVELS. IT. DID. NOT CHANGE. ANYTHING. IT is NOT a settings issue and then you say I "refuse to pay someone for their time" WHEN IT IS NOT AN ISSUE A CALIBRAION WILL FIX. Absolutely unbelievable suggesting I should pay a calibrator to change settings on a broken tv. It needs PARTS fixed. Nothing could have this bad of levels unless settings were WAY off, which d-nice and cnet settings will never be far enough off to cause THIS terrible black levels, no matter how different the panel is. Who cares if Pioneer will not fix it based on a guess. I WILL BUY THE PARTS myself and have someone fix it, if I can narrow it down because THE ONLY OTHER OPTION is watch a broken tv which will NEVER be fixed. I wish I could sell it and just buy another one. If you're oh so convinced it's settings, buy it from me and I will buy a different one.

I've been polite, but wow, some people just don't GET IT after MANY times of me repeating this is not a settings issue and not about me "not wanting to pay someone for their time". We could go into how overpriced calibrations are, but that is not related to this issue. Implying someone is cheap for not wanting to pay what a calibration costs is dumb itself, as if it's just some normal charge. Who else do you go to and pay hundreds per hour, if you want to get off topic now and talk about how calibrators only charge fair amounts per work done. But again the cost is not why I don't get one. I want one on a working tv.

Also, when the power supply was put in, he checked the voltages and claimed they were exactly what they should be. I doubt it's recommended for people to be messing with their voltage settings, and, again, I have asked D-nice countless times if he would calibrate, and I get ignored so obviously it's impossible that it will happen and I know of nobody else who knows anything about voltage tweaking.

Go get calibrators with any good reputation to come in here and agree with you that a tv which has worse black levels than a CCFL LCD even with contrast and brightness levels at minimums can be "fixed with settings". You won't be able to because it's impossible. No matter what any color settings are, they can't magically affect anything enough to fix a set with this bad levels at minimums in contrast and brightness. Those two controls being at minimum would make it black if my current settings were the problem. Only exception would be if the guy who owned it before screwed something major up when he used controlcal, which I highly doubt happened and would ruin black levels.

Also, I got the impression it was the only technician they had. I don't know.

Even if it were related to anything with voltages or pairings, that is not something a calibrator is going to do, so it still comes back to technicians, who are going to just keep claiming nothing's wrong. I knew it was hopeless when he said it has a great black level just by him looking at a checkerboard on the screen and no measurements or equipment which can measure black levels. If I could sell it for even $500 I would probably do it and take the loss and then pay to get another of the same model with working parts.
Edited by somelogin - 7/30/13 at 2:09am
post #24 of 29
This thread needs locked.
post #25 of 29
Maybe you have a parts issue and maybe not. It's your choice if you want to throw parts at the problem without a proper diagnostic (using equipment, and no, I'm not talking about calibration, sheesh). What's stopping you from buying the boards on eBay as you mentioned initially? As you stated yourself, there are only a very few remaining boards that might affect the screen in the way you describe. Cut the drama, buy the boards, and swap them. If doing so fixes your problem, great. What's the point of posting here to demand that someone recite to you the exact solution of which you have already convinced yourself?

My background requires me to say:
If you are thinking about swapping boards without consulting the service manual, then you are in way, way over your head. Voltages might look fine at the power supply, but the drive boards convert those to other voltages based on what is commanded by the digital board. That's why there are service menu options that marry the boards to the panel. That's why there are explicit procedures in the service manual that specify exactly which voltages and waveforms to check, which service menu options affect them, what the acceptable ranges are, and which voltages affect different situations such as misfiring cells.
post #26 of 29
And actually, it wouldn't be completely out of the realm of possibility that the previous owner caused the problem by mucking about in the service menu via ControlCal (I have not used it before, but there is inherent risk involved when navigating said service menu). D-Nice actually makes adjustments in the service menu to get the unbeatable blacks that he has been known to achieve, so the argument could be made that the opposite could also occur when making service menu adjustments.
post #27 of 29
Thread Starter 
lol gotta love njera. Someone has tv issues, posts on a forum to ask for help, gets a TECHNICIAN out to check it out, repeatedly tells the warranty company the problems exist, and still he finds a way to blame the victim. haha. He still has not once said a single thing I shouldn't be doing to get it diagnosed, yet it's magically MY fault the tv isn't fixed. oooooook. You can be rude all you want, but someone having a broken tv is not to blame for it and should not have people childishly implying it'[s his own fault. Heck, even if the person never got it looked at, you STILL have no right to say these rude things, but even more ridiculous when I';ve done EEVRYTHING a person would generally do. Told everyone who can be told and nothing is fixed. Also, AGAIN, I am trying to figure out which parts CAN lead to bad black levels. Nice job pretending I have my mind made up which part is doing it and want someone to lie that they know it's that aprt. How dumb to suggest I buy every part, when someone with knowledge could probably list 2 parts which could even possibly affect black levels. For example, I doubt BOTH x and y sustains can affect black level. Due to how the process works, I think only one would even possibly do something that could make blacks too bright, but if nobody with repair knowledge posts, I'll never know because there are no technicians who will properly check it. I love how you blame ME that the technician did not properly find the problem.

And even if anything was messed up in the service menu, related to what d-nice does, it doesn't matter, because NOBODY other than d-nice does those particular changes, so as long as he isn't interested, I have nobody who could "undo" anything, anyway, and I highly doubt the previous owner did anything. He insisted the black levels were still "perfect", so assuming he's honest, it didn't happen from him.

I also love how me asking for help is "drama".
post #28 of 29
I'll buy it for five hundred
post #29 of 29
Thread Starter 
I doubt I would really sell it for that. lol Basically to get the same model I would have to spend $1000-$1500 and then be risking this same crap, but if I only had to pay $500 or less above what I were to sell this for it would be worth it to me to get one working properly, then someone can explain to people how it was as I said it was. It's worth around $700 to me even with the issues, but I spent close to $2k and I would gladly sell it if I could buy another of the same model without issues. This still ahs the warranty for 2 years too, but like I said, it does no good having a warranty if repair people don't admit it has problems.
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