I used 2x4s, 2x2s, and awesome outdoor wood screws that I got at Lowe's. They are a little pricey, but go into the wood like butter. I pretty much quit using nails after I found those bad boys. Star-drive grip-rite tan colored outdoor rated wood screws.
These are the recessed lights I chose (thanks mscascio!) These were used in the Cinemar theater, probably my favorite build on these forums. Over the bar in the arch I went with some cheaper ones from Menards. They came with connectors for the wires, which was nice, but the bulb sockets were not attached, so that was not as nice. I prefer the ones from Juno if I had to do it all over again.
The screen wall. I'm planning on a 100" - 110" 16:9 screen due to the fact that my components will be going into a custom cabinet of some kind below the screen. Also, my first row of seats is going to be somewhere around 9 feet I think so I don't want those seats to be overwhelmed by the screen size. Yet, I want a big-screen feel to the room, especially since it will be viewable through the bar, and the wall will certainly allow a big screen length-wise. It's because of the seating distance and component cabinet that I think I have to stay in the 100-110" range. Feel free to post your opinions on this, because it has been a huge struggle for me. Screen and projector types are also a big struggle, but we'll discuss that later.
My solution to the pesky pipe. Looking back, I wish I would have made the box a little bigger so I could have stuffed more insulation in there, but it should be alright the way it is.
This is the only supply duct for the lower level. It will blow across the bar floor, and hopefully with carpet in the room it won't be too noisy. This was another compromise. I would have rather had it blow backward away from the theater area. Instead it is blowing sideways, but behind the theater. We'll see. I did the ductwork myself, after a HVAC contractor quoted me $382.
Let me tell you, it is scary cutting a hole in your own furnace! Yet...not so scary cutting holes in airplanes...wonder why that is???
This is the beginning of the closet/pantry next to the bar. I was going to hide my safe in there and have a secret panel to hide it, but the complexity drove me away. I'm sure the drywallers were thinking, "What the heck?"
This is the pocket door for the closet. That was no easy peach to frame, but I'm so glad that I did it. It saves a lot of space, and I've always wanted one in my house. Got the kit at Menards.
Here is the beginning of the bar where the arch will be over the sink. Deciding on the size of the side columns was one of the toughest things yet. How to make them big enough to hold the surround speakers and lines for water in and out of the sink, and yet small enough so as to not impede the view of the screen?
This is also the rear wall of the theater area, so I needed to maximize that space while allowing for two banks of cabinets inside the bar, which must align with the doorway for the closet. (Which was dictated by that pesky support pole. See how one thing affected many?) I squared the wall off of the side wall, but little did I know that would cause a problem later with the arch...
Now we're beginning to get a good idea of the bar, columns, and closet:
Got a mini-kreg jig at Rockler's to do these nifty things to the columns:
Here is where I am trying to mark the curve of the arch. I decided to make two half-arches, but since my span is 9 - 1/2 feet, the curve of the arch works out to this 10'+ arc radius. I started running out of room in the garage without pulling my car out, so In the end, I just sort of eyeballed it with all four pieces of the sides of the arch clamped together so I would only have to make one cut.
So I built these and then slid them in between the joists, which I thought was terribly smart at the time... BUT...the ol' joists ain't exactly square to my bar wall...I'll show the fix later.
Arch is up, and that PVC is just a standpipe to prevent the waste line from draining down there until I get the pump and check valve installed.
Next, I tried to put a soffit above the other side of the bar where the stools will be, but we felt like it was too heavy and it closed off the area too much. I ended up taking this down and using it as a 12" test riser on the floor. (Too high - definitely going with an 8" riser in accordance with my riser calculator results).
Bar wall with surround speaker boxes and test riser in front:Edited by Schlemstar - 7/19/13 at 6:26pm