Originally Posted by silvereyes
It might take me a week or so to test this, but I've asked for help in the optoma projector section of this forum, perhaps we will know the answer sooner.
I was curious about the functions of the sliders in the Estar program and about the upgrade tab, can you provide more details about them?
Thank you for that question -- I've taken a TODO to write a short document with a very good answer and post it. My own website buries an answer on page 33 of the starter kit User's Guide:http://www.estaramerica.com/assets/esa-esg6100_user-s_guide.pdf
Here's the general idea on the EStar Perforamnce Utility controls:
Delay: this is the delay between when the VESA 1997.11 (3 Pin Stereo Port) has a rising edge that signals "switch from left to right" and when you want the glasses to do it. So if you are using, for example, a FireGL v7700 graphics card, the sync signal matches the video when the signals leave the card. But then the display adds 2 ms latency, so you use the utility (or the joystick) to add 2 ms latency to the sync signal so it matches again.
Duty Cycle. For each single frame, say an 8.3 ms "left" frame out of 120 total frames per second, this is the percentage of that time that the lens is actually open. You would think this should just be 100% all the time, as many of my esteemed competitors assume, but there are times when you really really want to adjust this. In particular, everything Plasma and DLP has at least some ghosting, and the ghost doesn't "phosphoresce" into the whole next frame, it is brightest for, say, the first 1 ms of the next frame and then fades away. To kill the ghost, adjust DELAY up 1 ms so that the lens doesn't open until after the ghosting period, and then reduce the duty cycle to 85% (seven eights of the cycle in this example) so that it closes for the start of the next frame.
Obviously, if you close the lens to reduce ghosting, you also reduce brightness. For DLP you can make the opposite decision: open the lens extra time, get some extra brightness, but stop before the ghosting gets worse than what LCD and Plasma are pushing as acceptable. This is where the "more than 100%" settings are useful - when you've underpowered your projector lamp and need a little extra brightness at the cost of a little 3D ghosting. (Tisk tisk if you do this on an install, but it happens about every time I bring a portable to a meeting.)
Switch Left/Right and Save - self-explanatory? Save means save to Flash in the Emitter.
Upgrade - everything I've shipped is the latest firmware version. This lets you commit the warranty-voiding act of brain-erasing some other brand of BC100 with my firmware, and the emitters will then upgrade the glasses. Bit Cauldron tells me that there are some brands of emitters and glasses out there that are "locked" from being brain-transplanted with my firmware and that this doesn't effect the glasses interop or "restore to factory defaults," but, uh, it makes it easy to upgrade old Brand M and Brand O glasses so that the support workflow matches my documents. The glasses and emitters will still interoperate without the upgrade, the main goal is to ease support.