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My Cheap Thrills Thread - Page 2

post #31 of 164

You don't want to use a water based paint on bare MDF.

post #32 of 164
I want to see pictures when it's done OP biggrin.gif
post #33 of 164
Thread Starter 
gotcha. the last of the parts from Eric finally all came in and I'm ready to start. just gotta grab some Titebond premium from Home depot and some MDF to get started.
post #34 of 164
Did you ever get the CNC deal worked out? I'd be in for 3 flat packs if you do.

Meanwhile, I'm working on a Sketchup drawing of the enclosure right now.

Mike


Edit - Attached is the drawing. Rename the file by deleting ".zip" from the file name (leaving just "Cheap Thrills v2.skp") and it should work...Drawing updated with all braces and more dimensions, waveguide repositioned to conform w/ supplied baffle.


Cheap Thrills v2.skp.zip 592k .zip file
Edited by mhutchins - 7/25/13 at 9:51pm
post #35 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Did you ever get the CNC deal worked out? I'd be in for 3 flat packs if you do.

Meanwhile, I'm working on a Sketchup drawing of the enclosure right now.

Mike


Edit - Attached is the drawing. Rename the file by deleting ".zip" from the file name (leaving just "Cheap Thrills.skp") and it should work...


Cheap Thrills.skp.zip 375k .zip file

unfortunately not. the company who's getting it had theirs delayed by about a month frown.gif. so I'll have to cut by table saw and circular saw with jig for these

on a side note. glad I tested my drivers tonight to see if they worked. PE is down to 7 drivers
Edited by wormraper - 7/25/13 at 2:32am
post #36 of 164
Bummer. I sure hope Erich comes through with flatpacks, or I might just have to rely on my drawing.....

Edit: drawing updated
Edited by mhutchins - 7/25/13 at 9:48pm
post #37 of 164
I believe the Celestion TF1525 would also work in this design.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=294-2084

But it's almost double the price and only 70% the Xmax...., yeah, you should have hurried.
Still, not bad for a $100 driver.
post #38 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwaslo View Post

I believe the Celestion TF1525 would also work in this design.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=294-2084

But it's almost double the price and only 70% the Xmax...., yeah, you should have hurried.
Still, not bad for a $100 driver.

lol, yeah I'm glad I bought and tested my drivers last week. got in on the tail end of it.
post #39 of 164
This morning I ordered the last few they had just in case any one has issues with their woofers in the near future.
post #40 of 164
Wow! Now that is customer service!!
post #41 of 164
How does the Cel-15 used in the Cheap Thrill compare to the 2226?
Is the Cel-15 still available from PE at the buy out price?
post #42 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

How does the Cel-15 used in the Cheap Thrill compare to the 2226?
Is the Cel-15 still available from PE at the buy out price?

not sure about performance but no, it sold out early yesterday morning
post #43 of 164
Thread Starter 
looks like first cuts are this weekend (with pics of course biggrin.gif )

quick question for all you speaker builders. would I need one or TWO trial sizes of duratex to cover THREE 2.5 cu foot cabs ??? speakerhardware.com is out of the gallon jars of duratex.
post #44 of 164

http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Texture-Coating-Duratex-Roller-Grade-Trial-Size-Kit-Black.html

 

Quote:

The Kit is just right to do 10 to 12 square feet of speaker cabinet surface ~ enough for a couple 18” x 12” x 12” cabinets with two full coats for each cabinet.

 

I guess you could do the math and see how much square footage each speaker has. What is the final external dimensions of your cabinet?

post #45 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I guess you could do the math and see how much square footage each speaker has. What is the final external dimensions of your cabinet?

14.75 deep x 17 wide, x 26 high


looks like Acytech has the gallons in stock but with a $21 shipping fee it's over $73 just for 3 cabs. 2 trial kits would only cost $40 (although having enough to do 10 million other projects might be handy lol)
post #46 of 164
Quote:
14.75 deep x 17 wide, x 26 high

 

If my math is correct, that is 14.94 square feet per cabinet.

post #47 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

If my math is correct, that is 14.94 square feet per cabinet.

hmmm, with two coats that's about 30 sq feet of surface. meaning 3 kits for ONE cab at that point it looks like a gallon would be the way to go lol
post #48 of 164

It doesn't make sense what they say about the trial kits. A 18"x12x12 cabinet is 8 square feet yet they say the kits is enough for TWO of those cabinets with TWO coats each.

post #49 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

It doesn't make sense what they say about the trial kits. A 18"x12x12 cabinet is 8 square feet yet they say the kits is enough for TWO of those cabinets with TWO coats each.

yeah, that doesn't make sense. I noticed the same thing. unless they mean 10-12 sq feet of coverage AT two coats. that comes closer to the numbers they're talking about

and for those of you who have USED duratex. is it really worth it? I mean I was just gonna paint my cabs with a flat acrylic paint to match my walls, but if the duratex is that much better at protecting the cabs I might have to spring for a gallon.
post #50 of 164

Duratex was made for speakers and equipment in a pro sound environment. Are you going to be moving these speakers a lot or have kids that like to play on furniture with toys? Unless you like the look of Duratex, flat acrylic paint will work just fine. Its what I used on my speakers and they're still holding up well even with kids.

post #51 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

Duratex was made for speakers and equipment in a pro sound environment. Are you going to be moving these speakers a lot or have kids that like to play on furniture with toys? Unless you like the look of Duratex, flat acrylic paint will work just fine. Its what I used on my speakers and they're still holding up well even with kids.

gotcha, no kids, no moving a lot. I DO have cats who like to jump on top of my speakers that I have now though. if that makes any difference
post #52 of 164
Thread Starter 
made some saw dust today! cut the first sheet today before getting too late to continue.



post #53 of 164
Thread Starter 
ok guys. finished all the cutting today and was able to see how well they fit together. near perfect fits biggrin.gif. (pictures to come later(

all we have left is the bracing. what we WERE going to do is mimic Eric's style of braces, but the cuts are being a pain in our a$$es and we're thinking of just using dowels (2 vertical and 2 horizonal with maybe a couple of uber thin ones for depth bracing right at the area between the woofer and the horn). is there any downsides with using dowel bracing vs.
eric's style of "spine" bracing that's shown in the flatpacks for his other speakers? if so can I just use 1 inch or so wide strips of 3/4 mdf or should I use actual dowels? I'd rather do what's most stable vs. easiest so I'll make the funky braces if I have to.
Edited by wormraper - 7/28/13 at 10:58pm
post #54 of 164
Nothing wrong with using dowels instead of the more complicated window type braces. Dowels are in fact just as strong when mounted properly.
post #55 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Nothing wrong with using dowels instead of the more complicated window type braces. Dowels are in fact just as strong when mounted properly.

kewl. saving time tracing and cutting full braces is not high on my to-do list, so dowel braces sound like a better match.

how thick of a diameter dowel should I use... and please forgive me if this is a dumb question. but how is "mounted properly" vs. not mounted properly? (sorry for so many questions but I wanna make sure I do this right the first time.)

and lastly... can I use only dowels or can I cut pieces of 3/4 mdf to act as a "dowel" vs. getting a round dowel from HD or Lowes
post #56 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

kewl. saving time tracing and cutting full braces is not high on my to-do list, so dowel braces sound like a better match.

how thick of a diameter dowel should I use... and please forgive me if this is a dumb question. but how is "mounted properly" vs. not mounted properly? (sorry for so many questions but I wanna make sure I do this right the first time.)

and lastly... can I use only dowels or can I cut pieces of 3/4 mdf to act as a "dowel" vs. getting a round dowel from HD or Lowes

whatever you have access to or can get cheapest really. I find that 1x2s are cheap and strong enough. Mounted properly just means it's long enough to make connections on both sides of the wood, and not too long that it is stressing itself. You can use MDF as a dowel, any wood works it really doesn't matter.

If you built them without bracing I doubt it would matter that much, the box wouldn't fall apart or anything. It just helps hold it in shape so that energy isn't wasted flexing the box back and forth. But you might as well add a few, it's cheap and easy if you're just putting in dowels.
post #57 of 164
I used scraps of MDF, anywhere from 1 to 4 inches wide.
post #58 of 164
Thread Starter 
sweet, thanks for the help guys. I'll probably use the mdf scraps and use 2 inch wide strips.

just ONE last question. this is about duratex actually. My buddy wants to spray his and I want to roll mine... can I get the spray grade duratex from Acrytech and roll mine leaving him the rest to spray on his? I just didn't know know if I could still roll the spray grade stuff
post #59 of 164
I've never used it, but I thought that the spray grade was just thinner. If that's so, you'd be better to buy roller grade and thin it for spraying.
post #60 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I've never used it, but I thought that the spray grade was just thinner. If that's so, you'd be better to buy roller grade and thin it for spraying.

I typically spray the roller grade and either add just a touch of water or even no water at all. It all depends on how smooth you want your final product to be. Just make sure to paint with a flat black enamel as a base coat. That way you will use much less Duratex.
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