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Suggest me a build using 2226J's - Page 2

post #31 of 42
"If someone was going to build some mid-bass cabinets with the JBL2226, what would be a good enclosure size and what would be a good way to power and implement them with an existing monitor setup?"

unless you have a heck of a monitor marty, it isn't likely to keep up.

a 4 cubic footer tuned to 50hz will provide a -3db point at 50hz and about 97db 1w1m 2pi space above that point as high as you wish to run it. in room, probably more, depending on your room and placement. in such a cabinet, xmax is just barely reached at full rms power of 600 watts.

have you grabbed winisd yet marty? that would help address many of your questions with respect to how different driver/cab combo's perform.
post #32 of 42
http://www.jblpro.com/pub/cinema/4647a.pdf
post #33 of 42
Thread Starter 
I run the mains "small" crossed at 40hz. In that config they can do reference easily in my 12x18' theater. They are sealed and sound quality is quite good and very punchy for drums, bass guitar, etc.

I also have a pair of 4648 cabs (dual 2226's ported). The output using those is monstrous but they are physically too big for my room setup and I don't like the ported SQ. You could probably fill a warehouse with mid-bass using a pair of those.
post #34 of 42
Jesse,with the 2226s sealed where do they start to roll off? Also do you feel like you lose anything in the way of impact crossing at 40hz? Even guys with robust Mains(Notnyt comes to mind) seem to cross at 80.
post #35 of 42
A sealed 2226 in about 40L net will get around Qt=0.707, F3 100Hz. With a smidge of EQ, 80Hz is obtainable. A single driver/side is more than enough for most people.
post #36 of 42
Thread Starter 
Someone near me is selling JBL 2426J Compression Drivers and JBL 2344 Bi-Radial horns for $450. Would these be worth the extra cost above the DNA360+SEOS12/15?

The PDF says they are good down to 800hz, supposedly the 2226 is good up to 1000hz. The seller also has JBL crossovers for extra cost, not sure what they are designed for.
post #37 of 42
If you were a JBL nut you wouldn't ask the question.

The 2426/2344 was used in the later versions of the JBL 4430 and 4435 monitors. If I had 4 2226J I would be all over trying to work up a dual woofer 4435-like system.
post #38 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse S View Post

Someone near me is selling JBL 2426J Compression Drivers and JBL 2344 Bi-Radial horns for $450. Would these be worth the extra cost above the DNA360+SEOS12/15?
No.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse S View Post

The seller also has JBL crossovers for extra cost, not sure what they are designed for.
Never buy an xover unless you know what it was designed for and have those parts to use.
post #39 of 42
Thread Starter 
So the only reason to spend more on the JBL parts would be for the branding?

I have six 2226's so virtually anything is possible. Do I want massive 4435's though? Not really.
post #40 of 42
how about travelling the road less traveled and build something like this:



http://www.jblpro.com/catalog/general/Product.aspx?PId=442&MId=3
post #41 of 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse S View Post

So the only reason to spend more on the JBL parts would be for the branding?
Or you like the look of them. Or you for some reason desire the 100* vertical dispersion. Or you're a JBL fanboi. Or you like old stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse S View Post

I have six 2226's so virtually anything is possible. Do I want massive 4435's though? Not really.
Until I got my ND1090, I'd never heard a Ti phragm that I liked. I had some 2426 some time back and sold them and bought DE250. So as the JBL stiff offers no performance advantage and costs more, so why get them?

I wouldn't want a 4435 either. Don't like same driver 2.5 way systems.
post #42 of 42
Thread Starter 
Anyone know a cabinetmaker in Toronto that could build me some cabs for a decent price? I don't have the time to do it.
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