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CoolGeek's Concrete Bunker Home Theater Build - Page 2

post #31 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

130" Diagonal but it's just a hair over 119.5" wide viewing area. Also using the XD screen material as well, although my screen is not curved.

Did you get enough light on that sized screen? Which projector are you using? The only thing stopping me from going over 10 feet wide is that I am afraid the light / pop will diminish.. i plan to use the Sony 50 or 55 (new one soon to come out)
post #32 of 99
There is plenty of brightness with my Epson 8700UB, and this is not necessarily a high lumen projector. I do have it mounted about 15' back from the screen though.


post #33 of 99
Thread Starter 
^ wow.. those are really nice images... definitely got the pop!
post #34 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Right now, I am playing it with my dual HSU 15 inchers... (I can hardly hear any bass now... the speakers are so much louder.. i have to set them at -10 db at my receiver level.. and my sub at +10....
That's because the JTR speakers are so sensitive. Big sound with little power.
Are you using the Marantz AVR to drive them? What AVR or amplifier do you plan to use?
Are you from KL? None of the shops in Pasar Road selling the RCA-XLR adaptor?
post #35 of 99
Nice Coolgeek! Happy for you!
I was wondering what the reasons for ported and sealed on the Noesis. I know general reasons but why did you choose which way?
post #36 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

That's because the JTR speakers are so sensitive. Big sound with little power.
Are you using the Marantz AVR to drive them? What AVR or amplifier do you plan to use?
Are you from KL? None of the shops in Pasar Road selling the RCA-XLR adaptor?

Right...

Yup, Marantz.. it's a 10 year old amp, so I know for sure the sound can get far better once i get my onkyo in... (Because i have tried my friend's onkyo on my Wharfedale and they are way better).. and his was just the onkyo 609...

I tried pasar road before.. didn't find any... maybe it's there but i just couldn't find it..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Nice Coolgeek! Happy for you!
I was wondering what the reasons for ported and sealed on the Noesis. I know general reasons but why did you choose which way?

Well, actually the reason was because i wanted absolute clarity vs more mid bass... even my HSU subs were sealed... but right now, I am wondering if it would have been better to just get the 'center' sealed and the 2 sides ported... they do sound awesome though...
post #37 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Right...

Yup, Marantz.. it's a 10 year old amp, so I know for sure the sound can get far better once i get my onkyo in... (Because i have tried my friend's onkyo on my Wharfedale and they are way better).. and his was just the onkyo 609...

I tried pasar road before.. didn't find any... maybe it's there but i just couldn't find it..
Well, actually the reason was because i wanted absolute clarity vs more mid bass... even my HSU subs were sealed... but right now, I am wondering if it would have been better to just get the 'center' sealed and the 2 sides ported... they do sound awesome though...

Nice! I like the tad smaller profile of the sealed. I will be getting LCR but not until March 15th.
post #38 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Nice! I like the tad smaller profile of the sealed. I will be getting LCR but not until March 15th.

Cool... you might want to order it quicker.. i heard the wait time is long...
post #39 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Cool... you might want to order it quicker.. i heard the wait time is long...

I got to wait for funds. I talked with my fiancé and will be using my profit sharing bonus. That will cover the 212 Noesis LCR. I have sold my HSU VTF 15H, Definitive Technology towers and will be selling the center and surrounds to fund most likely an Orbit Shifter or a Cap S2 for a sub.
post #40 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

I got to wait for funds. I talked with my fiancé and will be using my profit sharing bonus. That will cover the 212 Noesis LCR. I have sold my HSU VTF 15H, Definitive Technology towers and will be selling the center and surrounds to fund most likely an Orbit Shifter or a Cap S2 for a sub.

I am sure you're gonna be a happy man once you get your JTRs... smile.gif I have been playing the speakers for hours now.. going thru my CDs...
post #41 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

I am sure you're gonna be a happy man once you get your JTRs... smile.gif I have been playing the speakers for hours now.. going thru my CDs...

Nice!
post #42 of 99
Congrats on the total speaker and sub package from Jeff. Wow! Orbitshifter + Concrete Bunker = madness biggrin.gif you will love it!!

I think Mark Seaton and Jeff Permanian get their XLR to RCA from markertek.com Here are the links from an old thread.

Mark Recommends these and uses these himself.....

http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Cables/XLR-to-XLR-Cables/TecNec-Cables-Connectors/SC100XXJ.xhtml

And for XLR-RCA

http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Cables/RCA-to-XLR-Cables/TecNec-Cables-Connectors/SC100XR.xhtml

Goodluck on the build!
Regards
Vik
post #43 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vikgrao View Post

Congrats on the total speaker and sub package from Jeff. Wow! Orbitshifter + Concrete Bunker = madness biggrin.gif you will love it!!

I think Mark Seaton and Jeff Permanian get their XLR to RCA from markertek.com Here are the links from an old thread.

Mark Recommends these and uses these himself.....

http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Cables/XLR-to-XLR-Cables/TecNec-Cables-Connectors/SC100XXJ.xhtml

And for XLR-RCA

http://www.markertek.com/Cables-Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Cables/RCA-to-XLR-Cables/TecNec-Cables-Connectors/SC100XR.xhtml

Goodluck on the build!
Regards
Vik

Thanks, but I don't think that would work. My sub would be too far from the receiver for that cable. I'll probably just need a connector that plus into the Orbit Shifter, and turns it into an RCA input... then use my normal rca cables to link to it... I found some on amazon, not sure which to get though
post #44 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Thanks, but I don't think that would work. My sub would be too far from the receiver for that cable. I'll probably just need a connector that plus into the Orbit Shifter, and turns it into an RCA input... then use my normal rca cables to link to it... I found some on amazon, not sure which to get though

Tell me if I have the recent events of your arrivals correct. You have all your JTR speakers received. LCR 212 Noesis, 4 slanted Eight surrounds and an OS but have only listened to the 3 Noesis with your HSU ULS dual subs? Anyway, I look forward to some descriptive opinions of the Noesis and the OS combo as those 4 items may be what I get eventually. Again, happy for you and your new gear! biggrin.gif
post #45 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Tell me if I have the recent events of your arrivals correct. You have all your JTR speakers received. LCR 212 Noesis, 4 slanted Eight surrounds and an OS but have only listened to the 3 Noesis with your HSU ULS dual subs? Anyway, I look forward to some descriptive opinions of the Noesis and the OS combo as those 4 items may be what I get eventually. Again, happy for you and your new gear! biggrin.gif

I can't wait to hook up my OS as well. My dual HSU's just can't keep up... So, essentially I am not listening to the JTR as they are meant to so I won't give much comments yet. But I'll say, even now, they are incredible. I compare my Wharfedale speakers (which was really good ones too, better than most towers I have heard), and although they sound good, the volume level would not begin to match the JTR's... they sound 'muted' against the JTRs...
post #46 of 99
Checked the OS specs now. Fun thing. -3dB point was a little early for my taste - does it react well to electronic low frequency boost or do it roll off quick?
post #47 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

Checked the OS specs now. Fun thing. -3dB point was a little early for my taste - does it react well to electronic low frequency boost or do it roll off quick?

-3dB below 20 hz...

Remember, IMAX only goes down to 22hz... (according to their website)..

And I have yet to hear anything approaching the Imax sound... I honestly don't think anything below 20 hz will matter much for HT... it'll likely give you a headache... my two cents..
post #48 of 99
Thread Starter 
Here are the JTR's up against my Wharfedales 10.7 Series...

The Wharfedales have been great to me for the last 10 years..... The JTR's dominates them now... But my Wharfedales will remain in my room while the JTRs will go into the Home Theater...


post #49 of 99
Ah, sorry... I ended up on the professional version, that had -3dB @ 37Hz. My bad.

There are quite a number of movies who have put much lower frequencies on the soundtracks. People who can play those claim we don't know what we're missing until we've experienced it... thus I'm aiming for a bit below 10Hz myself.
post #50 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

Ah, sorry... I ended up on the professional version, that had -3dB @ 37Hz. My bad.

There are quite a number of movies who have put much lower frequencies on the soundtracks. People who can play those claim we don't know what we're missing until we've experienced it... thus I'm aiming for a bit below 10Hz myself.

If you can afford it, then sure.. it'll be great to cover all the frequencies...

But I think to get anything meaningful below 10 hz, you need to spend a LOT of money.. I heard people needing 8x18inches (and each driver cost like $1000 above), and not even counting the amps, and boxes... The OS is equivalent to at least 4x18s.. and it's only 3K

I only have 3K to spend and i went with 1 OS...
post #51 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

If you can afford it, then sure.. it'll be great to cover all the frequencies...

But I think to get anything meaningful below 10 hz, you need to spend a LOT of money.. I heard people needing 8x18inches (and each driver cost like $1000 above), and not even counting the amps, and boxes... The OS is equivalent to at least 4x18s.. and it's only 3K

I only have 3K to spend and i went with 1 OS...

I intend to do it with 6x12". Same speakers in other installs have been measured to reach their -3dB between 5 and 12Hz and I hope my room will be amongst the lower ones. They do cost a lot more (4x) and that's without amps and crossover.

But I think you'll go plenty deep given your walls. biggrin.gif
post #52 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

I intend to do it with 6x12". Same speakers in other installs have been measured to reach their -3dB between 5 and 12Hz and I hope my room will be amongst the lower ones. They do cost a lot more (4x) and that's without amps and crossover.

But I think you'll go plenty deep given your walls. biggrin.gif

Hey, since you know so much about sub-woofers.. can you tell me where is the best location to place my sub-woofer? I heard from Jeff that if I corner load it, it'll extend the horn by several feet and that it'll go lower... if you see my plans, where would be that sweet spot?
post #53 of 99
Well, not counting that I don't know much about horns... but you want the element (or horn opening, if the element is internal) as close to the boundaries as possible so the first reflexes off them are constructive over the subs operating range. Typically within 2 feet. So no arguments about that from here.
(I would be cornerloading all of mine if I had the height for it, so I will have to have two mid front as well. They are triangular, so the baffel will actually be the corner.)

From your drawing I can't say that any other corner than the selected one would do better.

In general I don't recommend any less than two subwoofers, preferrably four, but given the cost limitations I understand that that is out of the question. You will get more peaks and valleys in your bass response (and differing between the seats) than you would from having four overlaying radiation patterns from several points of origin, but hopefully you'll be content the same.
Edited by Nightlord - 7/31/13 at 5:48am
post #54 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

Well, not counting that I don't know much about horns... but you want the element (or horn opening, if the element is internal) as close to the boundaries as possible so the first reflexes off them are constructive over the subs operating range. Typically within 2 feet. So no arguments about that from here.
(I would be cornerloading all of mine if I had the height for it, so I will have to have two mid front as well. They are triangular, so the baffel will actually be the corner.)

From your drawing I can't say that any other corner than the selected one would do better.

In general I don't recommend any less than two subwoofers, preferrably four, but given the cost limitations I understand that that is out of the question. You will get more peaks and valleys in your bass response (and differing between the seats) than you would from having four overlaying radiation patterns from several points of origin, but hopefully you'll be content the same.

Thanks.
post #55 of 99
Thread Starter 
Another problem.. I found out that my OS comes with this connector at the back:

http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/powercon-20-a/

How in the world am I going to connect it to my power socket??? It doesn't come with any power cord.
post #56 of 99
Grats on the speakers:) Looking forward to more impressions on their sound qualities I am considering them myself, altough I was aiming at the Noesis 228 HT I was hoping they would make a low profile version of that one too.

Was there a specific reason to go with the OS sub instead of other offerings?
post #57 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clausdk View Post

Grats on the speakers:) Looking forward to more impressions on their sound qualities I am considering them myself, altough I was aiming at the Noesis 228 HT I was hoping they would make a low profile version of that one too.

Was there a specific reason to go with the OS sub instead other offerings?

I'll put up my proper reviews once I have my Onkyo in and have hooked up the Orbit Shifter. Right now, they are only paired with my HSU's...

As for why I chose the OS.. well, it's the most powerful sub around. I can't think of anything else more powerful for $3K.
post #58 of 99
Looking forward to it:)

I only read great about the OS. I was going to build some custom subs as I am limited in depth for my bafflewall.

I just seemed to have read that your HSU's couldn't keep up with the Noesis's? In what sense? they seem slow paried with the Noesis?
post #59 of 99
Quote:
Originally Posted by clausdk View Post

Looking forward to it:)

I only read great about the OS. I was going to build some custom subs as I am limited in depth for my bafflewall.

I just seemed to have read that your HSU's couldn't keep up with the Noesis's? In what sense? they seem slow paried with the Noesis?
He has the speaker trim at -10dB & subwoofer trim at +10dB set on the AVR...yet, the JTR sound louder...that's because the JTR speakers are very efficient.
post #60 of 99
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by clausdk View Post

Looking forward to it:)

I only read great about the OS. I was going to build some custom subs as I am limited in depth for my bafflewall.

I just seemed to have read that your HSU's couldn't keep up with the Noesis's? In what sense? they seem slow paried with the Noesis?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

He has the speaker trim at -10dB & subwoofer trim at +10dB set on the AVR...yet, the JTR sound louder...that's because the JTR speakers are very efficient.

Exactly... I definitely need the OS hooked up...
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