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Noob looking for advice

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have a completely black room and want a 120" screen. My protector is a Mits HC9000D around 16ft to the screen. What would be my best option for the best picture?
post #2 of 10
At 1100 lumen output maximum, and 120" from a 16' throw, your fighting against some serious obstacles.

First, if you can reduce your Throw Distance.....say, to 14' even, you Foot lambert level with a 1.0 gain surface rises to only 11 fl.

..........however that's a big increase from a 16' throw @ 1.0 gain ( 8 fl )

Leastwise, it is when your already starting at just 8 fl

Taking your stated Throw as being an immutable law, as far as a DIY Screen, you need S-I-L-V-E-R

S-I-L-V-E-R comes in at a minimum of 1.4 gain. So @ 16' throw and 120" your zoomin' up to ............... 11 fl. Hmmm, not so good.
Set the PJ up to 14' with S-I-L-V-E-R and zip............. 16 fl.

Now that's to be considered very acceptable...with dynamic imagery able to happen.

S-I-L-V-E-R will help take the 9000 to a level it's unable to reach, unless you go into a Mfg High Power screen. But those screens would add a seemingly pixelated image, and with a SXRD's clean image, that is to be considered unacceptable.

Still, you simply have to consider the logistic requirements and performance limitations of your application and equipment. I really do hope you have some flexibility in PJ placement. Otherwise, you can achieve what could be considered "The best you can hope to get by with...", but that's like "Kissin' yur Sister".
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help. Yes, I do have some flexibility on projector placement. 14 ft is doable. What is S-I-L-V-E-R? or are we just talking a silver screen? Would a BOC painted be my best bet, or do you recommend another starting material?
post #4 of 10
S-I-L-V-E-R is a translucent, Silver Metallic impregnated "DIY" paint mixture that requires spraying onto a smooth, bright white surface.

BOC would be a pain...involving the need to smooth the surface and prime before painting.

Sintra / Komatex sheeting in 6mm thickness is an idea material. It's designed for and intended for Sign makers to paint on, so obviously it's gonna do you in good stead.

Do you live near that Mesa? Pinpoint your closest big City and I can provide you with a source.
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Santa Barbara, CA
post #6 of 10
Originally Posted by sn1ffb0 View Post

Santa Barbara, CA

Piedmont Plastics
17000 Valley View Ave.
La Mirada, CA 90638
Phone: 562-404-4014

Laird Plastics
12991 Marquardt Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Phone: 800-882-2246

Ask for Sintra or Komatex, or any similar Expanded PVC Foam Board in 6mm
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Do you buy pieces and somehow combine them or is it one single piece? Also, can you order online?
post #8 of 10
Originally Posted by sn1ffb0 View Post

Do you buy pieces and somehow combine them or is it one single piece? Also, can you order online?

You'd purchase a 5' x 10' x 6mm sheet, and have them cut it to your specified size.

I feel obligated to suggest a 114" screen (56" x 100") and the sheet be cut to 60" x 104". The 2" extra all around is to accommodate either Screws into a wall, or mounting onto a Frame

Lens at 13' -10" = 15 Foot Lambert off a 1.4 gain S-I-L-V-E-R

If 120" diagonal is sacred cow, the sizing the sheet at 60" x 107" = 122".

At a 14' throw (Lens to screen) you'll still have 15 foot lambert

What do you get for the additional 8" diagonal difference? 8" = approx 3.5" extra on one side and across the top.

Personally, mounting a screen ranks up there with painting as being something I want to be both simple and flawless. With Sintra, I try to use any overage (ie: the 2 extra inches above)to let me simply screw the Sintra to the wall, then place my Trim over that area, covering the screws as well. If I go up to 122", I either Glue the Sintra to the wall and butt trim up against the edges, or construct a Frame that the Sintra is glued to and screw the Frame to the wall...then cover the Frame with the trim.

It's all about how big you want....or in your case, how big you can go effectively. Secondly, your available mounting options.

Right Paint + Right Size will mean unexpectedly great results. Right Paint, Bigger sizes mean acceptable performance under ideal circumstances, but a quicker descent into image dimming as the Lamp ages.

Now for many, replacing a dim but working lamp equates to just being a Luxury Tax owed because they opted for maximum screen size, sooooo..... the PJ must run on Normal lamp mode, and in extreme cases, Dynamic or Living Room modes. As a Lamp dims to any degree noticeable, replacing the Lamp at that time and keeping the used Lamp in reserve is what prudent Enthusiasts do when they must drive the PJ into a big screen.

You should also consider this....you probably won't continue using a "2nd generation" PJ much more than 24 months....so the urge to replace it with a newer more proficient model will probably grip you about then, and your choices at that time will be plentiful and cheap. S-I-L-V-E-R will provide you with a screen you can easily let any PJ upgrade provide enhanced performance at lower lamp levels.

(...what did you pay for that HC9000D ? )
post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all your help. It's actually the HC5 and $1799.
post #10 of 10
Originally Posted by sn1ffb0 View Post

Thanks for all your help. It's actually the HC5 and $1799.

While the difference between the two PJs amounts to little more than price, and a slight difference in Casing design, you do gain a whole 1 foot lambet at each placement setting.

That means nothing has changed from the recommendations already given.
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