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Pioneer Elite Voltages? - Page 3

post #61 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

Like I said:
1. Only one place was listed on the pioneer site as being authorized and the guy who came out clearly did not know what's up as he claimed this horrible level was normal.
2. D-nice is clearly uninterested, as I said. I've tried in many ways to get him to agree to calibrate it and he never responds, let alone say he can do it.
3. The only way one can get a 111 is to buy used and even if it were new, it could be faulty and then nobody would cover it. All other plasmas have had bothersome flicker for me, so this was the right choice. I didn't know that there could be 1 in a million which ahs bad black levels. I thought I was only risking something such as burn in.
4. Any calibrator I would get is not going to be able tot ell me it "can't be fixed with calibration" because they won't KNOW how to do the voltages so they can't say with certainty. All they can say is THEY can or can't fix it with calibration. Also any time I tell anyone I am considering a calibration, they say I'm nuts and that if it's so useful, there would be more than 0.0001% or whatever the number is, who get it done.

D-Nice told you a few months ago that he does not do calibrations in your area, because it would not be worth the time and travel expensives to calibrate just one set. Perhaps you should make him an offer that he can't refuse by paying for all his travel expensives and the calibration service fee in advance. Otherwise; you need to stop complaining about how you can't get him to respond to you. He did already.

On the other hand, you asked back in June if there were any Calibrators who do come to your area, and Chad told you that he does.

You created the thread;

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1476763/west-tn/0_100#post_23414589

Chad said he does.
Edited by greenland - 8/23/13 at 9:53pm
post #62 of 373
Thread Starter 
Wrong. I have asked him various other things and he never answers. And show me where I complained he wont' calibrate it. I complained that out of billions of people in the world there is apparently only one person who knows how to fix what should be simple.

I am not looking for "a calibrator". I am looking for someone with knowledge of the voltage settings, which neither Chad nor the others I have talked to do.

Also those pics mean zero, as you're still looking at them on your own display. Looking at an elite pic on a non-elite computer monitor can't possibly be accurate as your OWN monitor won't be capable of showing it. Also where did I say it was "fake"? I said MINE is broken. I have used panny plasmas and several sony hx929, 820, nx720, etc.... models and all of them looked "inky black" EXCEPT this elite.

And to the guy asking why I don't post pics, I guess you aren't reading, as I told why many times.
post #63 of 373
Thread Starter 
Still nothing fixed. With how few people know how to fix this model, pretty pathetic it was considered a high end model. Most "high end" stuff you know can be repaired of it goes wrong, not something where nobody on the planet knows how to fix its voltages.
post #64 of 373
Hate to say it again, but that's not the kind of bump conducive to getting someone to help you. I'm sure one could count on their fingers the number of people well versed enough in regards to the service menu of the Kuro as to how to return it to its factory black level. Given D-Nice's success with lowering black levels, it would be hard to imagine that his tweaks wouldn't help in your case. Only one way to find out (show him the money, etc.).
post #65 of 373
Why not get the manual, read up and fix it yourself? Several times in these thread you've expressed your belief that it's a simple fix and that people are deliberately holding information back from you. You've really got nothing to lose, your TV is toast without getting it fixed.
post #66 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

2. D-nice is clearly uninterested, as I said. I've tried in many ways to get him to agree to calibrate it and he never responds, let alone say he can do it.
Really???? I only have 3 PMs from you... April 24, June 7 and July 3. Out of those three only one delt with calibration... April 24. Did you send me an email? If so I never got it. Please reforward what you sent.

I advised you back in April that I required mulitple indivduals in the Memphis area to sign up for a calibration before I could head that way. I also stated that there was no guarantee I could fix whatever, if anything, is wrong with your display. The following would have to happen for me to come check your display without it being a tour:


*You will have to pay for a plane ticket (I exclusively fly with one carrier)
*You will have to pay for a hotel (I exclusively stay at one brand of hotel when doing tours)
*You will have to pay for a rental car (I exclusively rent from 2 companies. You can pick either)
*You will have to pay my standard calibration fee



If you can agree to the above, we can discuss me coming out.
post #67 of 373
Thank you for finally putting this thread to rest cool.gif
post #68 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

Still nothing fixed. With how few people know how to fix this model, pretty pathetic it was considered a high end model. Most "high end" stuff you know can be repaired of it goes wrong, not something where nobody on the planet knows how to fix its voltages.

So you've contacted everybody on the planet?? I bet there are hundreds of people on the planet that know how to properly diagnose and/or repair your Pioneer, but the problem is you seem to think they're all here on AVS. Apparently, they are not. Or, maybe they really are all here reading AVS but you're being so abrasive and demanding that they are not interested in helping you.

It's simple, if you want to get your display properly diagnosed and/or repaired, you're going to have to find a capable knowledgeable Pioneer repairman on your own or with the help of your warranty company. If there isn't one in your area, you may have to take your display to one who's outside your area. And you may have to pay out of pocket at least for an official diagnosis that you can then present to your warranty company as proof that a component is indeed bad and they need to cover the cost of repair, and maybe even reimburse you for the diagnosis that their own repairman was incapable of performing.

The AVS membership is obviously unable or unwilling to help you, so take matters into your own hands and stop posting about it on AVS.
post #69 of 373
Thread Starter 
D-Nice, but part of what I asked was if you ever come here on tours! Or that is what I meant, anyway. People said you even go to Canada, so I thought surely you come this way at some point, also. I would even be tempted to go to where you're at instead, although that's obviously trying to transport this tv is not an ideal situation.

Also, to me, it would maybe be worth all those other costs (depending on exactly what they end up being) if it would fix the issue. Almost surely so. But these people are who have kept insisting it's just a settings issue. I personally don't believe it at all, as it's had too many odd thigns happen to not be a hardware issue, in my opinion. Always making popping noises, even after a power supply swap, outlines of squares showing even when the squares themselves are blacked out in the Disney wow disc advanced brightness evaluation, and then I would be very surprised if this brightness level is ONLY triple that of what it should be, like the other person who had this same issue had and his was never fixed.

Also I was tempted to see if you would just tell me what to do about the voltages and me pay for that knowledge, but I am guessing you do it based on measurements so if I knew how it would do me no good when I don't have anything to measure the levels with. And this is also in response to the person saying I should buy a manual and do it myself. Yeah average people sure do just have calibration equipment lying around to where I would only need a book and that's all....
post #70 of 373
Thread Starter 
Btw, let's just pretend improper voltage changes over time IS the problem.... do you know how to fix it or is what you do with voltages more for fine tuning a set which is known to already be close to normal?

Personally I would be VERY shocked if the problem is not hardware-related, anyway. like I said, if I KNEW it could be fixed, it's possible it would be worth it to me, but I've already sunk like a LOT into this. Depending on what I could sell this set for, it's possible I could sell it and get another one of the same model for less than trying to get this one fixed. I just don't want to try to sell it and then others of the same model all get sold out on ebay and me be stuck with nothing. And people here are so convinced I don't know what a bad black level is, so I would hate to advertise it as being cheap due to a bad black level when these people insist it's fine. Again, maybe you guys should want it, then. (the ones insisting it's fine)
post #71 of 373
now that D- Nice has replied and given you a path forward, I think this thread has served it purpose

OP: I understand your frustration and hope you can get the issue resolved and I hope you can make arrangements with D-Nice
post #72 of 373
My friend had a similar issue with his Kuro 151FD. TV was perefect out of the box. After a few months he noticed the blacks becomning bright. Eventually the black color reproduction became so dysfunctional the black colors looked like the typr of blacks you'd see on a cheap LCD screen in direct sunlight. Very washed out looking. A Pioneer tech from a local TV repair shop worked on it under warranty and eventually ended up swapping out every board in the back possible over a time span of about 5 to 6 weeks. Finally Pioneer caved and they replaced it with a brand new Kuro 151FD. They eventually concluded it was the panel that went bad for lack of any other diagnosis.
post #73 of 373
Thread Starter 
Thanks for posting. I sure hope it's not the case.... unless I could ever get the third party warranty people to agree it warrants paying out my warranty. But with this othr guy claiming it looks great, I doubt I'll get them to realize it's really not working properly. Or if I could ever sell it I could then pay a few hundred more to buy another of this model.... and just hope the same crap doesn't happen again.
post #74 of 373
Not being funny somelogin but to even suggest to D-Nice about "paying" for whatever proprietary knowledge he has regarding the subject (or his cool tweaks or whatever)...

Has to be one of the silliest, craziest, absurd things i have ever read in my entirety - lol.

But in a funny kind of way - almost - i think - confused.gif

wink.gif
post #75 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post


Has to be one of the silliest, craziest, absurd things i have ever read in my entirety

Sorry I took editing liberties with your post - this summarizes this whole thread perfectly now. One can only hope that eventually all the excellent advice he has received on this thread and others will sink in.
post #76 of 373
Thread Starter 
SHIOW ME WHERE THIS EXCELLENT ADVICE IS.

Seriously, it appears I'm not the one who needs something "sinking in". How many times have I REPEATED the question about this mysterious advice several of you keep claiming I am "ignoring"?I did not get a calibration. I am not an idiot, thus did not calibrate a BROKEN set. Now what other "genius" advice did I "not listen to"?

Pay $400+ to change settings on a broken set. Yeah, genius, indeed. Especially since stu himself said a calibration won't fix this type of issue. IF ANYONE REMEMBERS, I mentioned turning brightness and contrast all the way down to minimums STILL doesn't fix it, so a calibration will do NOTHING.

Now show me the other advice I ignored. Waiting. Or are you going to ignore me again and in a week come back casually posting about me ignoring advice, thinking I forgot I already called you out on you making things up?

Also I was not asking for "secrets". I was asking for knowledge on how to FIX the issue not how to calibrate it to professional levels. How brilliant for people to suggest I change voltage settings when I don't have the knowledge, those suggesting it don't have the knowledge, and then laugh at me for saying I would have to pay someone for it. lol

What it all comes down to is several of you are in denial that Pioneer could have made a bad set so you have to pretend it's some simple settings issue.

How convenient ignoring the other guy's post about his friend's issue AND the link given to another thread in this same forum where yet ANOTHER person had my issue and he NEVER got it fixed, as nobody could figure out the problem. Oh but I'm sure it was a "settings" issue. lol
Edited by somelogin - 9/12/13 at 9:38pm
post #77 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

SHIOW ME WHERE THIS EXCELLENT ADVICE IS.

Now show me the other advice I ignored. Waiting. Or are you going to ignore me again and in a week come back casually posting about me ignoring advice, thinking I forgot I already called you out on you making things up?

Also I was not asking for "secrets". I was asking for knowledge on how to FIX the issue not how to calibrate it to professional levels. How brilliant for people to suggest I change voltage settings when I don't have the knowledge, those suggesting it don't have the knowledge, and then laugh at me for saying I would have to pay someone for it. lol

What it all comes down to is several of you are in denial that Pioneer could have made a bad set so you have to pretend it's some simple settings issue.

How convenient ignoring the other guy's post about his friend's issue AND the link given to another thread in this same forum where yet ANOTHER person had my issue and he NEVER got it fixed, as nobody could figure out the problem. Oh but I'm sure it was a "settings" issue. lol

Advice ignored - to name only one, have you done that reset yet that was suggested? I'd give up the Pro modes in a nano second if it fixed this issue you claim to have (still no photos as you are the only member on AVS who can't take a picture and post it). Oh wait, that's right, you can't get the picture to look right rolleyes.gif

Secrets - DNice was nice enough to respond after you made a few less than positive comments about him not jumping up and down immediately to address your problem. He told you what it would cost for him to visit Memphis and work on your display. Everyone with a Kuro on this thread knows he has the expertise to work on voltages given his mod that he does to decrease black levels (clearing throat) - isn't that your issue? Again you keep expecting to get this fixed for free which isn't going to happen, if you like this display so much isn't it worth the $ to get it fixed and working?

Denial? Who's in denial here, you've received numerous suggestions/fixes from some pretty knowledgeable forum members and been asked by a Moderator to stop posting - very nicely I might add. If my Elite was in the condition you claim yours to be in then getting a manual, doing a reset or hiring DNice would be a no-brainer vs. living with this gray picture issue that has lead to months of posts by you complaining about it. You have nothing left to lose, your display is worth parts, worse case a DIY effort leaves you in the same place you are today, selling it for parts to someone else and moving on. If it was as bad as you claim I expect you would have moved on by now though.

Other forum member having similar problem - 2 out of thousands is not an issue likely to get Pioneer's undivided attention (because most likely the guy that owned it before you played where he/she shouldn't have - service menu) and a post that reads the same doesn't mean that the exact same issue for you. If you accept that issue is like yours then you have one very simple solution, get a new display. A number of members have told you the Panasonic ZT offers a similar picture to your Elite and this is also validated by a number of reviewers. You can purchase one at a BB Magnolia store (you have one in Memphis) and give the set a try to see if will work for you. If not you can take it back. This all sounds like a its pretty simple, so login for a change and start working on a solution instead of your continuous whining (sorry, but its true) about how no one helps you, loves you, etc. Your posts remind me of a child seeking attention because they perceive they aren't getting enough of it. It's old and its time to stop.

Mark - please shut this guy off. It was old a few months ago. Thank you.
post #78 of 373
Get a service manual and controlcal . you can then make adjustments in the Service menu ,keep track of the settings you started with so you can go back if needed ,
post #79 of 373
Or, take that defective TV that you got suckered into buying (that you did not test before plunking down your money) to an outdoor shooting range and use it for target practice. It's really fun shooting TVs and resolves anger issues. biggrin.gif
post #80 of 373
I think the OP is entitled to a thread on this, as long as it does not get out of control
post #81 of 373
Thread Starter 
well if they keep trolling, I will just ignore that part. smurraybhm is just being very unrealistic and odd, considering recommendations of resets to be "great advice" when EVEN D-NICE said in another thread do NOT reset the elites. Also, as I said before the ZT is likely to bother me with flicker and plus 60 inches is too big for where I have this. Even the 50 is too big.

qwk, for that amount of money, I could throw this outside and buy a new one. The goal is to get it fixed for a low amount of money. I should not be out tons of money when I have this UNDER WARRANTY. It's just principle of it more than anything else. I paid big bucks for an extended warranty on a used set and yet I can't get anyone to admit to them it's faulty.
post #82 of 373
^^^

understand this is frustrating for you: but your response does not help, nor will it help bring the results you seek
post #83 of 373
Quote:
Originally Posted by somelogin View Post

well if they keep trolling, I will just ignore that part. smurraybhm is just being very unrealistic and odd, considering recommendations of resets to be "great advice" when EVEN D-NICE said in another thread do NOT reset the elites. Also, as I said before the ZT is likely to bother me with flicker and plus 60 inches is too big for where I have this. Even the 50 is too big.

qwk, for that amount of money, I could throw this outside and buy a new one. The goal is to get it fixed for a low amount of money. I should not be out tons of money when I have this UNDER WARRANTY. It's just principle of it more than anything else. I paid big bucks for an extended warranty on a used set and yet I can't get anyone to admit to them it's faulty.

Not sure you thought this out , service manual can be downloaded for free , control cal is cheap . There is a thread about using a harmony remote to get into the service menu .
post #84 of 373
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1361871/official-pioneer-kuro-reddish-tint-problem-thread/1170#post_23570137

You can call me a troll but I like others would like to see your issue resolved. DNice saying don't enter the service menu most likely wasn't advice given to someone with the same circumstances. The link above was supplied to you over a month ago, did you try to adjust the black level? If not you should as you have nothing to lose. Otherwise spend the $ and get DNice to work on your set.

You have multiple threads going on this topic and with every response/suggestion you receive you dismiss it unless it is something like adjusting your contrast or RGB values. Holding out for someone to take care of this for free (so to speak) isn't going to happen and a solution is going to involve risks whether financial or entering the service manual. Your visit by the tech seems for now to have ruled out a problem with the board, assuming he at least ran diagnostics. A significant number of owners are having success improving the red tint via the service menu and I haven't read of one who bricked their display. I expect the previous owner played in the service menu and that could have caused you black level issue. So get in there and try. Once you rule that out (but hopefully it works) then the next step is easy - hire DNice.

He's worked on two displays for me over the past 4 years - worse case you may not end up with a perfect picture but it will be a heck of a lot better then what you have now. Plus you will learn a lot about your set and can discuss in greater detail options down the road that may work given your sensitivity to flickering. Come on - charge ahead instead of complaining about getting taken by the seller. Solving nothing and we all know it stinks. You have options so do them, again posting about this isn't going to make it better. No magic involved in your solution, just DIY or DNice. Good luck.
post #85 of 373
Thread Starter 
I didn't say he said not to enter it. He told someone to not reset an elite because they would begetting in way over their head, basically. Also, as far as controlcal, I got mixed up and thought the other guy was suggesting buying a colorimeter. But either way, I believe you cannot fix voltage issues with a manual and controlcal! I think you have to have equipment to measure things to know how it needs to be changed.

As for talking about trolls, yeah when people come in here making sarcastic remarks implying I'm an idiot and saying I don't listen to advice (lie), that is trolling rather than helping. And Mark usually says nothing about it, but then told me I am not going to get a good response due to how I worded something after people were being rude to me to begin with. I want my tv FIXED. That is my only goal in here, and it looks more and more every day that it will never happen. I can try calling other tv repair people, but only this ONE place was authorized by Pioneer.
post #86 of 373
Thread Starter 
Like I said, I will likely try that, but since no other places are authorized by pioneer, 1. that's risky and 2. I would have to pay for it, thus wasting my $300 warranty.
post #87 of 373
Thread Starter 
And you "should" realize you're not God and have no authority on what I "should" do. I am posting here because IF SOMEONE KNOWS how to fix it, it would be worth paying for it myself. But it's NOT worth paying hundreds of dollars for unknowns which will turn into dead ends just like every other suggestion anyone has made to me on here. You're playing with MY money, which is why it'[s so easy for you all to say to therow money on all thee ghunches that someone "may" fix it. If D-nice or some repair person KNEW they could fix it, then it's all dandy, but paying hundreds "in case" tey can because eyou people think it will be fixed would be flat dumb, as all of your other suggestions failed, when you just "knew" it was a settings issue.

Also, you should read my posts again. How can I look for a local solution involving the warranty, when I have posted time after time THERE IS NOT another local authorized repair person?
post #88 of 373
Attacking the help again (even if it is sh*tty) is not the route to go.
Edited by vinnie97 - 9/15/13 at 6:59pm
post #89 of 373
Cancel your warranty and get your money back ,at least a percentage of it , use it to pay D -Nice to come and help you ,I know it will cost you out of pocket but you are not willing to try it on your own with a service manual and voltage adjustments ,you somehow know that wont work:confused:.,even though you can return all the settings back so there is no real risk of ruining your defective display.
post #90 of 373
You need to get a grip - people are just trying to help and responses like that are why you are getting nowhere with anyone. I for one am amazed that you are allowed to continue to be active on this forum given how you treat others.

Based on your last post I guess you are dead in the water because there isn't a magical post out there that will fix your display without you trying one of the numerous possible solutions that have been offered to you. Unless you take a shot at the service menu, invest in some software or hire someone (nearby metro area repair person or DNice) you will continue to be where you were and are with grey looking blacks.

I would bet if DNice has been reading this thread he wouldn't want to work with you for obvious reasons.
Edited by smurraybhm - 9/16/13 at 6:24am
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